• Polystyrene Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 19 System 1
  • Polystyrene Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 19 System 2
  • Polystyrene Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 19 System 3
Polystyrene Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 19

Polystyrene Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 19

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10000 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Bubble Insulation Benefits:

  • Reflects 96% of radiant heat

  • Non-toxic / Non-carcinogenic

  • Does not require protective clothing or respirators to install

  • Durable and lightweight

  • Does not compress, collapse or disintegrate

  • Vapor and radon retarder

  • Easy to cut and install

  • Permanent and maintenance-free

  • Does not provide a growth medium or nutritive value for fungus, insects, or rodents

  • Does not support the growth of mold or mildew

  • Not affected by moisture or humidity

  • Lowers heating and cooling costs year round

Bubble Foil Application:

 

  • Metal & Steel Buildings

  • Homes

  • Roof Underlayments

  • Cathedral Ceilings

  • Crawl Spaces

  • Hot Water Heaters

  • Basement Walls

  • Floors

  • Garage Doors

  • Concrete slabs

  • Driveway snow melts

  • Pole barns

  • Post frame buildings

  • Poultry barns

  • Animal kennels

  • Temperature sensitive storage areas

Air Bubble Foil Insulation Tech Data:

 

Material Structure:     AL/Bubble/AL

Bubble Size:D10mm*H 4mm(10*2.5/10*4/10*6/20*7/25*10)choose the bubble size

Bubble Weight:0.13kg/m2 ( can be customized )

Roll Width:1.2m (lenth can be customized)

PROPERTIES

TEST DATA

UNIT

Thickness

3.5-4

mm

Weight

250

g/m2

Emissivity

0.03-0.04

COEF

Thermal conductivity

0.034

w/m0

Apparent Density

85

kg/m3

Reflectivity

95-96

%

Water Vapour Transmission

0.013

g/m2kpa

Corrosion

doesn't generate

Tensile Strength(MD)

16.98

Mpa

Tensile Strength(TD)

16.5

Mpa

 

Q: Should a two story home have insulation under the roof in the big closets ?
yea. it might cost you some to put it in but it will save you a lot in the future with heating and air conditioning bills
Q: My boyfriend has just moved into a flat in a newly converted house. He's up in the loft, and has just discovered that the roof isn't insulated.Does the landlord have a legal obligation to insulate the roof?
To comply with UK building regulations all lofts must be insulated... Q22. How much loft insulation do I need? A22. To meet current Building Regulations you need 270mm of mineral wool insulation. 100mm between the ceiling joists and 170mm laid over the joists.
Q: please help..
probably not a good idea. are you asking about insulation (pink stuff) if so, then it not good with moisture. if you are asking about tar paper on the roof then it would leave tar smell in your car.
Q: do i leave air gap in attic roof for insulation?
The best way to set up an attic is to put a vapor barrier under the rafters (before nailing on the gyproc), then put the insulation (fibreglas batts) between the rafters to full depth (10 or 12 inches). Soffit vents are installed under the eaves at the sides of the roof, and gable vents are placed near the peak of the roof at the ends. This allows for airflow resulting from convection, particularly important in the summer months to remove heat buildup in the attic. If the insulation is adequate, it will not only isolate this heat buildup from the inside of the house in summer, but will prevent heat loss to the attic in winter. (The airflow in winter will be minimal, but will remove any moisture/condensation that might collect otherwise.)
Q: My new room is an addition to a mobile home, and has a single-layer metal roof. I have 3 "main" concerns. What are the cheapest and/or most effective ways of eliminating them?1. No heat insulation- cold air sinks from the roof to my room, and my warm air rises to the roof and cools.2. Condensation forms on the inside and drips occasionally. My computer, bike, and downhill boards are in here!3. It seems like bugs could easily get into my room, but that's just a suspicion.
You really need a correct "building paper" under the iron. It is aluminum with a tar sandwiched between...You can also use plastic sheeting as a vapor barrier..
Q: what action should a plumber take?????
struggling to understand your question! are you talking about a storage tank? what is the problem with the insulation? if it is in the way move it but insulation under a tank is not a problem the tank will need to be insulated any way!
Q: So I'm renovating an old farmhouse with a metal roof and there is no insulation in the attic. I was up in the attic checking for leaks since we just got some freezing rain and it is currently melting I thought now was the perfect time to check. I found no leaks but I did notice the roof was sweating with noticeable beads of water in many places and many of the 2x4's that act as the frame were damp, although none were rotted (I found that odd as the house is approx. 140 years old and those are the original 2x4's. I could tell that the attic does have vents so I guess it dries out before rotting or mold occurs.. but makes me wonder if I put down some roll-in faced R-30 Owens Corning Insulation and then add a plywood floor over top if everything will be fine.. or not so fine..
You need to make a determination as you if you want your attic to be conditioned or unconditioned. If you want it unconditioned, you need to make sure you have venting up high and soffit vents to allow air in. You would then insulate the floor with batts or blown cellulose or blown fiberglass. If you want the attic to be conditioned space, you would insulate the roof itself. For this I would recommend contacting a spray foam company and get their opinion. Spray foam is great for insulating roofs but it has to be done right.
Q: Why would you not insulate between the rafters in an attic? I see a lot of houses with no insulation on the inside of the roof.
Why would you want to waste money heating the attic? There are several reasons to put the insulation directly above the living space. Increases the life of your roof, prevents ice damming, saves money, helps avoid moisture issues in the attic and roof sheathing. Is that enough?
Q: I am purchasing a mobile home with a shingled roof. The shingles need to be replaced (>15yrs old) and with the cost of heating going up each day I thought I would added some of that 2" thick rigid insulation. I would place this right on top of the existing roof and then place the firring strips for the metal roof right on top of the rigid insulation panels (which are 4x8'). By using 3" galvanized sheet rock screws I will get a good solid attachment. Then I will put the metal roofing on to the firring strips as normal. Does anyone see any downside to doing this? Has anyone tried this before?
The only downside I see is your miscalculation about the length of the screws need. Lets see, 2 inches of insulation, 3/4 inches of furring, leaves you with a solid 1/4 inch of bite, and we all know that the first 1/4 inch of the screw is meant for piercing, not holding. So plan on 4 inch screws, because you still need to penetrate the old roof and bite the structure. Don't forget to plan your drip edge which now will have 2+ inches of roof thickness to carry the rain water over into your gutter.
Q: Above the trailer roof is a metal pitched roof with no soffit and lots of air-flow. I plan to recess the insulation 6" to allow airflow. There is a suggestion that I need a vapor barrier. If I use a vapor barrier, won’t water collect between the roof and the barrier. I was thinking if using strapping crosswise every 4” to act as a channel for water runoff. Any ideas?
The roof is already a vapor barrier, you won't need 2.

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