Double Side Aluminium Foil Laminated to PE Woven Fabric - Roofing Insulation Material

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Loading Port:: Lianyungang

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

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Supply Capability:: 600000 m²/month

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1. Description

Five-layer product, with double layers of bright aluminum foil to both side, this substrate provides superior tear resistance. LDPE (Polyethylene) used in this product provides superior resistance to delamination.

2. Construction & Benefits:

The combination of woven fabric and aluminum foil by polymer adhesive producing an extremely tough product with superlative tear resistance.

3. Application:

Designed for use as a wall wrap and as a roof covering for commercial and residential building, it should not come into contact with wet concrete or mortar because of aluminum is susceptible to alkali corrosion.

4. Dimension/Size

[1]. Roll width: 1000mm,1200mm and 12500mm

[2]. Roll Length: 50m, 100m, 200m, 500m, 1000m, or upon request.

[3].. Core I.D.: 3"(76mm+/-1)

5. Similar products guide

FW780

FWM78012

FW1280

FWS1280

Q:We have plenty down at the center, so many, you can carpet a garden. So, since I'll have to tear down the roof and improve the insulation in a few months, I was thinking of adding one extra layer... of emergency blankets. Since they can reflect the sun's heat up, and the heat under it down, will they do that for a whole house? Will the plastic film cause water condensation? If you wouldn't recommend it, then what would you recommend?: They may help, but as thin as they are, installing them would be about as easy as putting socks on a rooster!

Q:do I have to blow insulation in the roof of my mobile home if I install foam insulation under a meatle roof?: Vapor barriers always go on the heated side of walls or ceilings. If you are going to add insulation to your attic and don't want to put in more blown in insulation ( which does have a better R-factor) then purchase unfaced fiberglass insulation to put on top of existing insulation. The thing you need to avoid is called double vapor barriers. Years ago when the first started playing with super insulated houses they would put a poly on the inside and outside of the walls. What happened is any moisture picked up in the walls going from summer to winter would get trapped in the walls and rot them out. No matter what only one vapor barrier on the heated side of the insulation!!! Then your house can breath and release moisture regardless how thick your walls or ceiling.

Q:Hello, this is quite an ordeal I've got. I am renting a cabin that has galvanized metal sheets as roofing. These are of course nailed into large wooden beans that run all acrooss.The owner and I made a deal, that deal is that I will put up insulation on the roof. However, she wants to put (i don't knw what they are called) big rectangular styrofam blocks (about 3x9 feet long). She wants me to cut them up to a width where they will feet in between the wooden beams and somehow secure them on. My idea of securing them is by nailing a plastic covering over them. but I am unsure about how to do the rest. How will i get the blocks to stay put if i cannot nail them? is there a better and CHEAP way to do it?As of now, if you look up you see the wooden beams and the tin metal roof. She wants it to be insulated and not visible.: Without important points related to what's between the roof and the ceiling below it, regardless of if it can be a one story or two story constitution; fast fix maybe relative? If for illustration,,,and that i have got to anticipate this, that some insulation exists in an attic, crawl space, and so forth. Then absolutely that must be checked for an "R" ranking, and decide to add or change. Possibly the "venting" variety fixtures usually mounted are either absent of now not strictly realistic. Perhaps historic time approaches like attic exhaust fanatics perhaps employed? What is the constitution of your roof to the point the place under roof vents, soffit and facia exist? Without figuring out the substance of the structure, IE: Block, body, and so forth., you could try to check if correctly the partitions are insulated, and strive exchange in that also. A extra ordinary repair, however absolutely now not rapid can be to have timber blocking and shading where the solar does strike the apartment. Windows within the direction of the solar can be tinted, as they provide no, actual insulating properties. Awnings over windows on the exterior might support in small measure. I are living in primary FL. And happen to very so much experience sun and warmness, however certainly it could actually reason financial budgetary issues. There are numerous methods you could attempt to block the sun, or insulate the apartment, and all is also legitimate, even along side the others, however speedy is, as I mentioned, relative to how much effort and money you have got to put into the effort. Steven Wolf Went back to CEMENT in the original. Is the ROOF cement as well? Is this in fact a "apartment" or apartment constructing? Is the "cement" "POURED" concrete panel building, or is it "block"?

Q:I would like to find foam type tiles for my roof of decking, insulation?: www.okorder I checked the website I posted by searching 'foam roofing' on google. This link is what I found but there are others... Google it to find your best deal. I think I will spray this stuff under my pier and beam home just to insulate. Thanks for the tip! I can buy this product, apply it myself and cut the cost down to 1/3 or more.

Q:The attic was converted into two rooms and I want to add insulation but the space between the ceiling of the rooms and the roof is about 5 inches? How should I do this?: It sounds like you will have to use blown insulation. They will drill holes in the walls to blow the insulation in. Over time, this type of insulation will drop down or compress; so you will have to top it off over time. You might also add acoustical tile to the exiting ceiling to add a little more insulating value.

Q:I know you're not supposed to directly insulate the roof due to the roof getting super heated in the summer, but my walk-in (actually, more like &quot;crawl in&quot;) attic is very hot in the summer and very cold in the winter. Is there anything I can do to improve efficiency? I can't help but think I'm wasting a lot of energy just to keep my roof lasting a little longer.: You can avoid the condensation problem by simply leaving a minimum 2'' gap between the roof and the insulation. You need to fix battens on to the rafters ( at least 2'' from the tiles ) and then fix blanket or rigid insulation tight between them. The battens will maintain the air space. You then need to fix a vapour barrier over the whole thing and finish with plasterboard. No small job to do it properly ! ps you need to check the condition of the roof before you start and fix any loose tiles etc Alternatively, turn the heating up and wear a thicker sweater.

Q:i mean, what do you use to make it stay put? glue? nails?: These are sheets of foam cut to size, they use a piece or steel wire to hold the foam up its cut some what longer then the width of the bal so it bends forcing it to dig into the joist.

Q:i have roof insulation but if i add more to the required depth the bottom layer will get compressed. Will it still insulate?: Compressed insulation is LESS effective than uncompressed insulation. It will still insulate more than not having it. If you are adding enough to actually compress the bottom layer, you have probably passed the point where additional insulation actually helps.

Q:A roofer who wants to put a new roof on my mobile home says it will dry out. (We live in the rainiest part of the US): If your insulation gets wet while the roof was removed, you will most likely have mold/mildew problems after the roof is replaced. While the roof is off, it's an excellent idea to inspect the insulation are replace as necessary. If your roofer isn't going to protect your insulation while it is exposed, find another roofer.

Q:Above the trailer roof is a metal pitched roof with no soffit and lots of air-flow. I plan to recess the insulation 6&quot; to allow airflow. There is a suggestion that I need a vapor barrier. If I use a vapor barrier, won’t water collect between the roof and the barrier. I was thinking if using strapping crosswise every 4” to act as a channel for water runoff. Any ideas?: your plan is good ...

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