• Polycarbonate Roofing Insulation Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Type 13 System 1
  • Polycarbonate Roofing Insulation Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Type 13 System 2
  • Polycarbonate Roofing Insulation Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Type 13 System 3
Polycarbonate Roofing Insulation Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Type 13

Polycarbonate Roofing Insulation Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Type 13

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10000 cm³
Supply Capability:
100000 cm³/month

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Bubble Insulation Benefits:

  • Reflects 96% of radiant heat

  • Non-toxic / Non-carcinogenic

  • Does not require protective clothing or respirators to install

  • Durable and lightweight

  • Does not compress, collapse or disintegrate

  • Vapor and radon retarder

  • Easy to cut and install

  • Permanent and maintenance-free

  • Does not provide a growth medium or nutritive value for fungus, insects, or rodents

  • Does not support the growth of mold or mildew

  • Not affected by moisture or humidity

  • Lowers heating and cooling costs year round

Bubble Foil Application:

 

  • Metal & Steel Buildings

  • Homes

  • Roof Underlayments

  • Cathedral Ceilings

  • Crawl Spaces

  • Hot Water Heaters

  • Basement Walls

  • Floors

  • Garage Doors

  • Concrete slabs

  • Driveway snow melts

  • Pole barns

  • Post frame buildings

  • Poultry barns

  • Animal kennels

  • Temperature sensitive storage areas

Air Bubble Foil Insulation Tech Data:

 

Material Structure:     AL/Bubble/AL

Bubble Size:D10mm*H 4mm(10*2.5/10*4/10*6/20*7/25*10)choose the bubble size

Bubble Weight:0.13kg/m2 ( can be customized )

Roll Width:1.2m (lenth can be customized)

PROPERTIES

TEST DATA

UNIT

Thickness

3.5-4

mm

Weight

250

g/m2

Emissivity

0.03-0.04

COEF

Thermal conductivity

0.034

w/m0

Apparent Density

85

kg/m3

Reflectivity

95-96

%

Water Vapour Transmission

0.013

g/m2kpa

Corrosion

doesn't generate

Tensile Strength(MD)

16.98

Mpa

Tensile Strength(TD)

16.5

Mpa

 

Q: How much insulation is required in a house roof in new York ?
323 square feet per cubic mile.
Q: I need to call around and find a contractor to repair my roof. I thought it might be a good idea to at least have the name of this type of roofing correct so I don't sound like too much of a mark. Thank you in advance for your assistance.
Cheap.
Q: I live in the top most floor of a flat. Is it worth to insulate the roof (from inside) with styrofoam(thermocole) to reduce the airconditioning load. Is it really economical with respect to cost of insulation and savings gained? Any experiences?
You want to insulate at the ceiling joist level, not at the roof-rafter level and provide ventilation for the remaining cavity. You also want to make sure you have the correct vapor barrier. But you do not want to insulate directly below and contacting the roof deck. One of the difficulties with rigid insulation is making it fit correctly and without gaps. So be careful of that. You may have to supplement the rigid sheets with foam spray at the gaps, around wires and pipes and so forth.
Q: im thinking of putting rolled felt paper under my metal roofing would that work instead of the reflective insulation instead?
rolled felt is not going to be as good as proper reflective insulation i dont think it would work
Q: A roofer who wants to put a new roof on my mobile home says it will dry out. (We live in the rainiest part of the US)
I think everyone is misunderstanding your question. I think what you are saying is that your insulation got wet, becasue of your roof leaking. The roofer wants to replace the roof but not the insulation. If your talking about an insulation board under the roof then I think your roofer is right. Just put a new roof on. If you talking about some kind of fiberglass batt insulation then it probably should be replaced.
Q: Rather than waste that heat on sunny days during the heating season, can it be used to help heat the home? Otherwise it would just passively be vented out. Has anyone done this? Is it a good idea or not?
Not very practical. You would, in essence, draw the heat out of the space (rooms) below. Insulation in your attic does allow some heat to pass through.
Q: attic insulation
Blow in insulation is so easy and cost effective, do it yourself. Machines can be rented at Lowes, HD, etc where you buy the material.
Q: I am purchasing a mobile home with a shingled roof. The shingles need to be replaced (>15yrs old) and with the cost of heating going up each day I thought I would added some of that 2" thick rigid insulation. I would place this right on top of the existing roof and then place the firring strips for the metal roof right on top of the rigid insulation panels (which are 4x8'). By using 3" galvanized sheet rock screws I will get a good solid attachment. Then I will put the metal roofing on to the firring strips as normal. Does anyone see any downside to doing this? Has anyone tried this before?
I agree with the soundness of every part of your plan EXCEPT not removing the original shingle roof. The shingle roof is already at the end of its usable life. There’s no benefit to covering up old problems, and they will most likely affect the durability of the new roof. Plus, removing the old roof gives you the opportunity to inspect and repair any issues with the roofing deck. Your new insulation and metal roof will attach better and perform better by removing the old shingle roof.
Q: I've found lots of building forums and general "building advice" columns that go over very high-level pros/cons to choosing roofing material and insulation options, but I want a site where I can see hard costs of ordering each of the materials so I don't have to call up a ton of contractors or dealers. Does such a comparison site exist? Everyone offers quotes, but that takes too much time to apply for quotes to every dealer.I'm specifically interested in knowing what green options I can afford (cotton batting vs. formaldehyde-free fiberglass, etc.).
You could call ABC supply or Norandex Reynolds, they are the biggest distributors I know of. They may have some resources for you.
Q: attic is 400 sq ft.there are 4 round 6'' Vents in soffit,and 2 roof vents-12"x12".Rock wool,blown in,R/30 NO VAPOR BARRIER.Why the mold?no gable or ridge vent either.How do i fix this?There are baffles in attic,rafters are not blocked.
is your HVAV unit in the attic?Is the moisture coming from it? Also-ridge vents help allow proper ventilation.

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