Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 13

Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 13 System 1

Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 13

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 10000 cm³

Supply Capability:: 100000 cm³/month

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Bubble Insulation Benefits:

Reflects 96% of radiant heat
Non-toxic / Non-carcinogenic
Does not require protective clothing or respirators to install
Durable and lightweight
Does not compress, collapse or disintegrate
Vapor and radon retarder
Easy to cut and install
Permanent and maintenance-free
Does not provide a growth medium or nutritive value for fungus, insects, or rodents
Does not support the growth of mold or mildew
Not affected by moisture or humidity
Lowers heating and cooling costs year round

Bubble Foil Application:

Metal & Steel Buildings
Homes
Roof Underlayments
Cathedral Ceilings
Crawl Spaces
Hot Water Heaters
Basement Walls
Floors
Garage Doors
Concrete slabs
Driveway snow melts
Pole barns
Post frame buildings
Poultry barns
Animal kennels
Temperature sensitive storage areas

Air Bubble Foil Insulation Tech Data:

Material Structure: AL/Bubble/AL
Bubble Size:D10mmH 4mm(102.5/104/106/207/2510)choose the bubble size
Bubble Weight:0.13kg/m2 ( can be customized )
Roll Width:1.2m (lenth can be customized)
PROPERTIES	TEST DATA	UNIT
Thickness	3.5-4	mm
Weight	250	g/m2
Emissivity	0.03-0.04	COEF
Thermal conductivity	0.034	w/m0
Apparent Density	85	kg/m3
Reflectivity	95-96	%
Water Vapour Transmission	0.013	g/m2kpa
Corrosion	doesn't generate
Tensile Strength(MD)	16.98	Mpa
Tensile Strength(TD)	16.5	Mpa

Q:I have an apartment building that has mold in it. I'm trying to do everything I can to increase the airflow. Sure, the tenants might have to spend a mint on heat, but if it improved the air quality, maybe it would be a good idea.: Don't remove the insulation, unless it has mold in it too. Locate the source(s) of your mold problem inside your building... a high rate of interior bulk moisture, and eliminate that. Then make sure the bathrooms have exhaust fans that are wired-in with the light switch (so whenever someone turns the light on, the fan comes on too), and that the fans are vented out of your attic (otherwise you'll have mold inside your attic). Also, make sure the kitchen exhaust fans vent outside (and the clothes dryers too).

Q:I am purchasing a mobile home with a shingled roof. The shingles need to be replaced (&gt;15yrs old) and with the cost of heating going up each day I thought I would added some of that 2&quot; thick rigid insulation. I would place this right on top of the existing roof and then place the firring strips for the metal roof right on top of the rigid insulation panels (which are 4x8'). By using 3&quot; galvanized sheet rock screws I will get a good solid attachment. Then I will put the metal roofing on to the firring strips as normal. Does anyone see any downside to doing this? Has anyone tried this before?: The only downside I see is your miscalculation about the length of the screws need. Lets see, 2 inches of insulation, 3/4 inches of furring, leaves you with a solid 1/4 inch of bite, and we all know that the first 1/4 inch of the screw is meant for piercing, not holding. So plan on 4 inch screws, because you still need to penetrate the old roof and bite the structure. Don't forget to plan your drip edge which now will have 2+ inches of roof thickness to carry the rain water over into your gutter.

Q:I need to call around and find a contractor to repair my roof. I thought it might be a good idea to at least have the name of this type of roofing correct so I don't sound like too much of a mark. Thank you in advance for your assistance.: Most typically, it's a sprayed polyurethane foam system. Simple repairs can be made with a sealant, unless you need a section replaced.

Q:I already have fiberglass in the attic, but would like to add more.: Blown in is easier, cheaper and can be a DIY project. Just make sure you don't block the soffitts that allow air to circulate.

Q:So I'm renovating an old farmhouse with a metal roof and there is no insulation in the attic. I was up in the attic checking for leaks since we just got some freezing rain and it is currently melting I thought now was the perfect time to check. I found no leaks but I did notice the roof was sweating with noticeable beads of water in many places and many of the 2x4's that act as the frame were damp, although none were rotted (I found that odd as the house is approx. 140 years old and those are the original 2x4's. I could tell that the attic does have vents so I guess it dries out before rotting or mold occurs.. but makes me wonder if I put down some roll-in faced R-30 Owens Corning Insulation and then add a plywood floor over top if everything will be fine.. or not so fine..: Hi, GA. On my second coffee here, so bear with me if a little fuzzy. Trying to envision what you're looking at, first thing I hear is 2x4 roof framing, not say the 2x6 or 2x8 rafters I would expect. A 2x4 structure and metal roof is a light build more suitable for a shed or outbuilding than a home. Wouldn't tolerate much additional weight, like from plywood. Next thing, which I don't hear, is whether there's moisture on the attic's "floor", where you're standing. I'm thinking the moisture you're noting is above you, on the undersurface of the roofing, and on the rafters. Finally, while some condensation on the underside makes sense, it would also seem quite possible that there are a number of small leaks through the roof. My goals would be to first ensure there are no leaks through the roof surface, then to ensure the attic indeed has enough venting, then to both reduce air from the lower living level bleeding through up to the attic space (also good to reduce convective heat loss), then to insulate the attic floor to reduce radiant heat loss from below and warming of the attic air, pretty much in that order. The prize is a leak-free roof over a cold attic space.

Q:hi me and my friends made a lounge out of my old tin roof shed we have a tv speakers and a few other electrical goods... since winters on its way we were wondering whats the best and cheapest way to insulate the place note that its a tin rof but has wood under it where the old indulation used to be the place is pretty chilly and sometime damp plz help we dont wanna be freezing our asses off in there thanks :): florida fan nailed it. You can't JUST insulate and solve the problem. Insulating only keeps IN a desired temperature once it is introduced. Once the source of temperature change on the inside is gone, the space will gradually take on the temperature of the surrounding environment. You will absolutely need a heat source in order for the insulation to do its job.

Q:we want to put a model railway up in the loft,and i like the idea of having white plastic cladding throughout up there,my hubby is insulating the roof tomorrow,but he prefers plasterboard,at least the cladding will be maintenance free,: i think it might be able to pass code if you ever sell the house.i myself would use sheets of white wainscoting.also make sure the insulation if it has a paper backing ,paper faces the room.

Q:A roofer who wants to put a new roof on my mobile home says it will dry out. (We live in the rainiest part of the US): I think everyone is misunderstanding your question. I think what you are saying is that your insulation got wet, becasue of your roof leaking. The roofer wants to replace the roof but not the insulation. If your talking about an insulation board under the roof then I think your roofer is right. Just put a new roof on. If you talking about some kind of fiberglass batt insulation then it probably should be replaced.

Q:Can you put fiberglass insulation on the under side of roof tiles in the loft in the house?: I would be concerned that this may cause moisture to form between the roofing and the insulation. They make a special foam panel that fit underneath the roofing in between the roof rafters. They allow air to flow from the eave to the roof's ridge.

Q:i have about 200 sq ft of odd shaped polystyrene foam (rigid) insulation between 3&quot; and 5&quot; thick. it's leftover from installing a flat roof on a commercial building. creative ideas anyone? grind it and use it as attic insulation in a home?thanks.: I'm a bit confused here Andy. If the flat roof needs replacing, when it is removed what is revealed is going to be exactly what you would see if you removed the ceilings. So why consider removing the ceilings if they are ok? When the flat roof is replaced put the insulation in then. Whilst rockwool would have been the material to use there is now roofing insulation board that is much more efficient, 50mm board gives equivalent insulation of something like 150mm rockwool. If the flatroof isn't fitted with suitable vents to keep it ventilated fit them when the roof is done too. The only reason I can see for replacing the ceiling plasterboard is if it hasn't got a vapor barrier ie foil backed board.

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