Reflective Roofing Insulation Xpe Thermal Insulation Material Polystyrene with Roll

Reflective Roofing Insulation Xpe Thermal Insulation Material Polystyrene with Roll System 1

Reflective Roofing Insulation Xpe Thermal Insulation Material Polystyrene with Roll

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Aluminum foil/XPE,EPE foam insulation

Characteristics

1.light weight,clean,thin,good flexibility and cushioning;

2.invariable if it is attacked repeatedly;

3.It overcomes the shortcoming of general foam such as,rubber ordinary brittle,the distortion,resilient.And also having super waterproof, moisture-proof, quakeproof, sound-insulated,the heat preservation,good plasticity,strong toughness, the circulation restoration, the environmental protection,strong anti-hit strength.So is it one good substitute material for the general packing material.

Application:

It using many flexibility for handbags luggage lining, industrial production of sound insulation,thermal insulation material of agricultural, aquaculture floating equipment, protective sports pad, water rescue operation equipment, home, hotel floor decoration, cushions and so on. The pipe is used extensively for air-conditioning, baby stroller, children's toys, furniture and other industries. EPE laminated fabricit ,as a good decoration material,generally use to various vehicles and living room.EPE alu film and alu foil or other composite products have excellent anti-ultraviolet infrared capabilities.It is also one good substitute material for a number of chemical and camping equipment, cold storage equipment,car shade.

Such as for industrial sheds,commercial buildings,home insulation,under wood or laminated flooring,roof insulation, carpet underlay and construction,packaging material to the sensitive products. To protect precise machine,elevator,slap up furniture ,sun shade,sand beach mat,heat preservation,and terrestrial heat.

Specification

Name of the products	Aluminum foil with FR grade EPE/XPE foam insulation
Mainly materials	Aluminum foil,EPE,XPE,IXPE foam,Metallized PET,LDPE,HDPE WOVEN,Air bubble
Structure	1.Alu(Metallized PET)+PE+XPE/EPE 2.Alu(Metallized PET)+PE+XPE/EPE+PE 3.Alu(Metallized PET)+PE+XPE/EPE+PE+Alu(Metallized PET) 4.Alu(Metallized PET)+PE+Woven+PE+XPE/EPE+Woven+PE+Alu(Metallized PET) 5.Alu(Metallized PET)+PE+XPE/EPE+PE Bubble+Alu(Metallized PET) 6.Alu(Metallized PET)+PE+Woven+PE+XPE/EPE+PE Bubble+PE+Woven+PE+Alu(Metallized PET) 7.Customized
Aluminum foil thickness	6.5mic,7mic,9mic,12mic,15mic and so on
Metallized PET	10mic,12mic,15mic and so on
Foam thickness	0.5-7mm
Width and length	Width from 0.8-1.6m,length can be 20m,30m,40m,50m,100m and customized
Foam color	Red,green,blue,white,black and customized

Technical parameter

Type:Al/4mm EPE/Al

Structure	Al/4mm EPE foam/Al
Roll Dimension	1.2m*40m
Thickness	4mm
Weight	195g/m2
Emittance	0.03
Reflectivity	97%
R-Value	Up to R-11
Flame spread	25
Water Vapour Transmission	0.012g/m2 Kpa
Fungi Growth	No Fungi
Corrosion	Doesn't generate

Q: Should a two story home have insulation under the roof in the big closets ?: Hell yes it should. A lot of contractors skimp on insulation though. Every singe area in your attic under your roof needs fiberglass insulation or you will lose heat and air and your electric bill will be higher. Heat rises and u will lose it fast in the winter if there is just one small spot without it.

Q: Sorry, I asked this in the maintenance and repair section, but no luck.Which is better to have in a 2-story home? My last 2-story home was always hotter upstairs than down. (Physics...heat rises): the best is more attic isolation so that the heat don't come directly to second floor.

Q: Would it be worth forwarding the offer to the client? Is the difference that substantial?: You don't want that. If he offers 3.5 instead of the required 3, that is a different story. Otherwise he should give you more material thickness to provide an equivalent R of 3. Yes, the difference can be substantial and I wouldn't forward it to the client. The smaller the R value of the entire roof sandwich the larger the difference it makes. Like the change from 5 mpg to 4 mpg is a 25% worsening in fuel economy, but a change from 100 mpg to 99 mpg is 1%. It will mess up the heating/cooling of the building and the mechanical systems might be inadequate. They could save money on the roof and complain how the building is too hot/too cold or the mechanical systems never shut off and their energy bills are too high.

Q: please help..: Both fiberglass and asphalt products are harmful to your health. Stick to brands like Raamat, Secondskin, and Dynamat.

Q: How do I adequately insulate my attic roof to make the space a bit more habitable in the winter? The floors to the living area below are already insulated and we have a gable mounted fan which is great in the summer. I am thinking of adding insulation to the roof with baffles underneath for air circulation through the soffit vents. Am I anywhere near an idea that may work?: Such an interesting question when you sit down to answer it. First off, if there are any vents to the exterior, its not likely that you will want any additional heat to enter the space, as it will flow out of the vents to the outside and cost far more money than heat that is lost by thermal transfer, through the doors, windows and insulated walls and ceilings. So, any increase in the source of heat would mean closing the system to outside air vents like the fan and the soffit vents. If you want to heat the space, you'll need to insulate the roof by adding fiberglass batting to the space between the rafters and then drywall or panel depending on local building code and your preferences. Then you'll need an avenue for heat to reach the attic which can be as simple as cutting a couple of floor grates through to the heated space below, but you'll want cold air return ducting to send the cold air that is displaced by the heated air back down to the furnace. Then you'll need to seal the gable fan and insulate, perhaps with a box you can remove in the spring and replace in the fall. Now that the attic is integrated in the HVAC system, you no longer need the soffit vents. If you don't have a forced air system, there is less concern about the cold air return, as your heat source would be in the room or you can just use floor grates on opposite ends of the room for both the warm air and cold air exchange. Place one near the heat source below and one well away from it.

Q: a roof that is built with the insulation covering the waterproof membrain is ?: a foolish product of college education in the building trades. it's pretty much taking over. real tradesmen saw that ship sink a while ago and are getting better at treading water.

Q: I'd like to put a train set in my loft / attic, so to avoid it being cold in there during the winter I'm considering having no insulation in the floor of it where one usually would, thus allowing the heat to rise into the loft. Then, insulate the roof between the rafters instead. Is this just as good at keeping the heating costs down?: It will provide some insulation but not as much as you can get by insulating the attic in the normal way. Typically you use very thick batts or blown insulation that can be 12 to 18 inches thick. If you insulate only the rafters you will probably only have 5-1/2 inches of insulation. I think you are going to find the attic with this arrangement pretty cold depending on where you live.

Q: Finally remembering to do so, before my family and I left the house for approximately 4 hours, I turned off the heat before leaving. When we came home I turned it back on, but was shocked to see that the temperature had dropped 4 degrees in that time. 4 degrees in just under 4 hours seems like a lot of heat loss, does it not? I've seen the insulation in our roof and it's just that sawdust looking stuff spread everywhere. I feel like I'm paying a lot of unnecessary dollars for heating: the air does kick on every hour or two and we keep the thermostat at 68.Is it reasonable for me to talk to my landlord about this problem and getting better insulation in the ceiling, and maybe in the roof? (the master bedroom, on the far corner of the house, is always 2-3 degrees below the rest of the house). Are my expectations to not lose a degree of heat or more per hour unreasonable? Would a typical landlord consider this a problem worth discussing?: We don't know what kind of climate you are in - or the age/construction of the dwelling.......but by standards here, 4 degrees heat loss in 4 hours is insignificant... For comparison.....we have a two-story, 1800 sq ft modern home in Ohio: the windows are triple-glazed (but there are a lot of them)......the walls have fiberglass bats under 1 inch cedar siding.......our ceilings are acoustical tile over plasterboard with about 2 feet of blown-in fiberglass insulation above them. We have a new, Energy Star gas furnace . . . . in cold weather it cycles on&off at least 10 times an hour.....I am sure that if we were to turn it off, the temps would drop more than 5 degrees per HOUR......gas bills about $250 a month in winter. You are fortunate to have so little heat loss in yours.......while the "sawdust looking" insulation doesn't sound very cutting-edge, I can't imagine anything would reduce the heat loss and be cost-effective. If buildings didn't cool-off in cold weather, we'd just heat rocks in the sun and bring them inside !!!!!!!

Q: If I insulate my roof, should I put in those plastic vents that go between the studs for air flow? I would like to use it for a work shop and probibly have some kind of heat source. i live in Northern Alberta.....: Rabbits do not choose supplemental warmth whilst in a development. Rabbits are lots greater beneficial appropriate to handle chilly climate than they are to handle warm climate. warmth lamps won't purely reason a hearth probability, they'll purely approximately insure that the animals gets pneumonia. make beneficial they have extremely some nutrition, a BOWL of heat water three times an afternoon (do not use water bottles in the iciness), and field complete of hay/straw to burrow into, and that they would be high quality.

Q: I've found lots of building forums and general &quot;building advice&quot; columns that go over very high-level pros/cons to choosing roofing material and insulation options, but I want a site where I can see hard costs of ordering each of the materials so I don't have to call up a ton of contractors or dealers. Does such a comparison site exist? Everyone offers quotes, but that takes too much time to apply for quotes to every dealer.I'm specifically interested in knowing what green options I can afford (cotton batting vs. formaldehyde-free fiberglass, etc.).: You could call ABC supply or Norandex Reynolds, they are the biggest distributors I know of. They may have some resources for you.

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