Asbestos-Free Aluminum Foil Foam Heat Insulation Material
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- 12 m²/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
You Might Also Like
aluminum foil foam heat insulation material
1.Structure:AL/blue XPE foam/AL
2,Normal roll size:1.5*22.25M
3,:AWTA ,SGS, ISO9000
aluminum foil foam heat insulation material :
Heat laminated, foam core providing an exceptional barrier against conductive heat, humidity, water and vapour penetration
Two outer layers of 99%+ pure aluminium (with very strong reinforced weave/scrim)
Reflecting up to 97% of radiant heat
Excellent fire properties
Excellent acoustic properties
Environmentally/Eco friendly and fibre-free
Anti-slip properties make it safer for installers
Compliance with the latest insulation standards
30m2 roll (1350mm x 22.25M) PLUS Over-lap (150mm x 22.25m)
- Q: Sorry, I asked this in the maintenance and repair section, but no luck.Which is better to have in a 2-story home? My last 2-story home was always hotter upstairs than down. (Physics...heat rises)
- the best is more attic isolation so that the heat don't come directly to second floor.
- Q: the best way to thermal insulate and water proofing of rcc slabs economical, may be some poly urethane material or whatever but should be very effective and light weight.
- use a polythene sheet . i dont know about where u live but where i live we get very long and broad size thick polythene sheets to make shelter or the protect from rain . even poor ppl use it to make slums . they attach a sheet in bamboo and they bury half of that bamboo stick inside the ground and by arranging 4 of them like this in a square area they make a bamboo frame. then as i said they attach sheet and make temporary home but they live there for years.
- Q: Would it be worth forwarding the offer to the client? Is the difference that substantial?
- You don't want that. If he offers 3.5 instead of the required 3, that is a different story. Otherwise he should give you more material thickness to provide an equivalent R of 3. Yes, the difference can be substantial and I wouldn't forward it to the client. The smaller the R value of the entire roof sandwich the larger the difference it makes. Like the change from 5 mpg to 4 mpg is a 25% worsening in fuel economy, but a change from 100 mpg to 99 mpg is 1%. It will mess up the heating/cooling of the building and the mechanical systems might be inadequate. They could save money on the roof and complain how the building is too hot/too cold or the mechanical systems never shut off and their energy bills are too high.
- Q: weather stripping/ foam strip?
- Those foam strips they sell you to go under the ridge caps will eventually dry out, blow out, and be hanging all over the place. Caulking won't fill a 5/8's gap to keep the wind/rain out, and tar has no place whatsoever on a metal roof, you'll get it all over everything, and either one will look like ****. The best ridge cap has to be custom made and cut to fit. I use a 12" wide X 10' strip, bent in half to pitch, and then turn down 90 degrees on the edges, whatever the rib height is, usually 5/8". Hold the ridge cap in place on the ridge and mark where the ribs are, then notch out for the ribs so that the cap sits flush over the ribs and down on the flats, punch holes and screw down thru the tops of the ribs. It's a little time consuming but it makes for a good looking finished product that won't wear out.
- Q: So I'm renovating an old farmhouse with a metal roof and there is no insulation in the attic. I was up in the attic checking for leaks since we just got some freezing rain and it is currently melting I thought now was the perfect time to check. I found no leaks but I did notice the roof was sweating with noticeable beads of water in many places and many of the 2x4's that act as the frame were damp, although none were rotted (I found that odd as the house is approx. 140 years old and those are the original 2x4's. I could tell that the attic does have vents so I guess it dries out before rotting or mold occurs.. but makes me wonder if I put down some roll-in faced R-30 Owens Corning Insulation and then add a plywood floor over top if everything will be fine.. or not so fine..
- I own an 80 year old house -- a home originally built as temporary housing for people working in the airplane industry during the war, and for returning soldiers. Temporary housing that is better structurally than many new homes. In fact, the original design and work was brilliant in its simplicity and precision, and I have found that the problems with my house are the result of work done later on -- additions and fix ups that screwed with the original integrity. One thing I have learned RE old houses is it is often best to leave well enough alone. This does not mean one should not address definite problem, or add certain features, but it does mean one has to think things through and do a great deal of research before acting. As you say, the structure of the roof is the original, so all the folks who had the house before you must have been doing something right. If I were you, I would ask around my community, do some internet searches, and find someone in your area who is an expert on dealing with historical structures of the area. This person will not necessarily be a master craftsman with a PhD in history and another in architecture. It may actually be a skilled handyman or carpenter who is continuing the old family business. He also probably lives in an old farm house, or knows plenty of folks who do. THAT is the guy you want to consult.
- Q: What is the aim of insulation in walls and in roofs?
- Proper insulation is designed to keep you comfortable in al sorts of weather. In the winter it reduces your utility bills by keeping the cold outside where it belongs. It does the opposite in summer. It keeps the heat out. Learn all about it here.
- Q: attic insulation
- Blow in insulation is so easy and cost effective, do it yourself. Machines can be rented at Lowes, HD, etc where you buy the material.
- Q: i have roof insulation but if i add more to the required depth the bottom layer will get compressed. Will it still insulate?
- Simple - make your bottom layer 1" styrofoam sheets- it has a higher R value per depth (1 inch of styrofoam is equal to 4 inches of fiberglass ) and it will not take-up much space and it will serve as a vapor barrier - and it will not compress when covered by fiberglass insulation. (So you can add as much R value as you want - as much as you can afford - with styrofoam sheets because they take-up such small depths in your rafters --- Also, humidity, as on rainy days or sunless winter days, decreases the R value of fiberglass -- weather conditions do not affect the R value of styrofoam sheets.
- Q: The roof does not have fillet under tiles, our house tends to be very cold and we want to remove the insulation and put a knew one, will our house be warm? any tips and advice.thank you for your time
- why remove its a pain and if its old it could contain asbestos. just add best thing is to get the crumbly stuff they either blow in or you can buy it in sacks and just fill the attic rafters in the case of insulation more is more!!
- Q: We bought a house and put new metal roof on over the shingles. (first please don't say, this or that should have been done, just what I can do now) Any how, we have put a lot of money into the house, roof, all new electrical, all new plumbing, etc., I had to make the house in a "living in condition" with a low budget. ............ the house does not have insulation in ceilings, this has to be done next summer. (budget) Any how, the metal roof has condensation under it, only in the ridge vent area. This drips a little and I need to fix it. Now, I know that insulation wouldprobablyy fix this, but we don't have the money right now, so I need help on what to do? Is there anything that with a $100 to $200 budget can be done? I have searched a little, and maybe use a "spray-on"insulation help? The area is where the gap is at the peak and where themetall overlaps the ridge vent. (I thinkthat'ss what it's called)Thank you! :)
- hope this helps. With more air movement there will not be so much condensation. it is a matter of having an inlet for air or a fan and then an outlet for air. There are small extractor fans i have one for my bathroom, but unsure of the cost.
Send your message to us
Asbestos-Free Aluminum Foil Foam Heat Insulation Material
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- 12 m²/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
Similar products
Hot products
Hot Searches
Related keywords
