aluminum foil foam heat insulation material

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aluminum foil foam heat insulation material
1.Structure:AL/blue XPE foam/AL
2,Normal roll size:1.5*22.25M
3,:AWTA ,SGS, ISO9000

aluminum foil foam heat insulation material :

Heat laminated, foam core providing an exceptional barrier against conductive heat, humidity, water and vapour penetration

Two outer layers of 99%+ pure aluminium (with very strong reinforced weave/scrim)

30m2 roll (1350mm x 22.25M) PLUS Over-lap (150mm x 22.25m)

Q:What's better- to lay out roof insulation in an old house or to get it blown in?: anybody can do either.nothing to it.i prefer blown, because it isnt near as itchy.you can rent the blower from home stores, but it takes 2 people to run.

Q:I am building a porch roof over an existing patio. The rafters are fabricated I-beams. I plan on putting aluminum soffit under the I-beams. On top of the roof I would like to put down a metal roof. I already put down 3/4&quot; OSB and a rain/ice barrier. Do I need insulation and/or ventilation on top of the rain and ice barrier, or can I get away without it?: Its a outside patio, are you going to enclose it for living space? If not don't bother to insulate and for ventilation there is soffit that comes with vent holes in it. Add; no it will not cause a moisture problem, i had a patio with a open bottom metal roof and had no problems and i live in Florida.

Q:So I'm renovating an old farmhouse with a metal roof and there is no insulation in the attic. I was up in the attic checking for leaks since we just got some freezing rain and it is currently melting I thought now was the perfect time to check. I found no leaks but I did notice the roof was sweating with noticeable beads of water in many places and many of the 2x4's that act as the frame were damp, although none were rotted (I found that odd as the house is approx. 140 years old and those are the original 2x4's. I could tell that the attic does have vents so I guess it dries out before rotting or mold occurs.. but makes me wonder if I put down some roll-in faced R-30 Owens Corning Insulation and then add a plywood floor over top if everything will be fine.. or not so fine..: Is the attic floor completely uninsulated now? You need a single layer of vapor barrier between the living space and the attic space. This is often done with faced insulation rolls. A vapor barrier between the living space ceiling and your new insulation may be enough all by itself to prevent the condensation from forming. If there's existing insulation, you'll have to pull some up to check for a vapor barrier. If there's already a vapor barrier, you can add unfaced insulation. Never put in two vapor barriers with insulation between them.

Q:i live in a tropical country and i need to insulate my roof to block off the heat from the sun...which insulation would best help me? aluminum foil with foam, real foil with foam or PE with foam? pls help...thank u so much!: look into a product called "Snow Roof". You roll it on like paint and it will lower inside temp 10-20 degrees.

Q:I have a low pitched roof so there isn't that much room up there hands and knees only.I have no eave ventilation but the ventilation is through the front and back of the house through triagle metal caps cut into the wood siding. I already have some R19 in the ceiling joists but was wondering would putting it in the rafters against the plywood holding the shingles also help insulate the living area of the house.: No blowing in some insulation will help but putting insulation against the roof wont help. the attic area is supposed to breath to avoid condensation and overheating. The only thing you would put on the roof side would be to help cooling in summer since the shingles heat up the wood underneath and heats the attic, which then works down through the ceiling.

Q:should thermal insulation ever be applied directly to the underside of a roof top?: yes its done all the time on metal buildings. works well but expensive.

Q:Hi, my building is hot in temperature in summers, so I am finding ways to tackle the problem by placing some heat insulating materials against the sunlight on the roof of my building. I have found several possible solutions, but none of them close to perfect. 1. grass layer: hard to maintain2. heat-insulating brick: might be too heavy to carry them to the roof3. heat-insulating coating: would it be damaged if we step on them? Are there things like heat-insulating carpets that would be convenient to instal?: Closed cell spray foam applied to the inside of your roof sheathing will work just fine. It needs to be installed by a specialty contractor. Good Luck

Q:i have about 200 sq ft of odd shaped polystyrene foam (rigid) insulation between 3&quot; and 5&quot; thick. it's leftover from installing a flat roof on a commercial building. creative ideas anyone? grind it and use it as attic insulation in a home?thanks.: put an AD and sell it as material for Accoustic sound proofing,

Q:We had a water leak in our pipes in our foundation and had to re-route our pipes along our roof. We have tried some really basic insulation for piping, but it usually deteriorates very quickly due to sun light and wind. What are some ways we can insulate our pipes effectively without having to re-insulate every month? This has to be something fairly simple and inexpensive. We aren't looking for perfect insulation, just something that will keep the water warm in the winter and cool in the summer.: they sell insulation at the home improvement stores. if you have tried that type then you will need to call a proffessional to insulate with fiberglass and wrap with tin protective cover. depends how cold it gets you may have to use heat tape also.

Q:attic is 400 sq ft.there are 4 round 6'' Vents in soffit,and 2 roof vents-12&quot;x12&quot;.Rock wool,blown in,R/30 NO VAPOR BARRIER.Why the mold?no gable or ridge vent either.How do i fix this?There are baffles in attic,rafters are not blocked.: You still don't have enough attic ventilation. Definitely need more soffit vents. Roof mounted turbine vents that turn in the wind help suck more air through the attic. This coupled with at least one gable end vent should stop further mold. Removing old mold is a hassle, but can be done using diluted bleach in a lawn pump sprayer. A respirator will be needed to ensure you can breathe while applying the bleach solution.

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