• polyethylene conduit with an integrated toning wire System 1
  • polyethylene conduit with an integrated toning wire System 2
polyethylene conduit with an integrated toning wire

polyethylene conduit with an integrated toning wire

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 m.t.
Supply Capability:
1000 m.t./month

Add to My Favorites

Follow us:


OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

conduit is made from high quality high-density polyethylene (HDPE). The conduit meets industry standard wall thickness in ¾,1,1¼,1½,and 2 inch diameters. The polyethylene is blended with a premium UV stabilization and protection package. Our unique toning wire is 18-gauge copper clad steel (CCS) coated with a fluoropolymer jacket. The wire is located within a channel built onto the inner wall of the conduit. An 18-gauge wire was selected to maintain wall thickness and provide optimal tone carrying characteristics. CCS provides the necessary amount of copper to carry a tone over long distances and a steel core that is more durable than a solid copper wire. The fluoropolymer allows the wire to move independently of the conduit eliminating stresses on the wire and conduit. The fluoropolymer coating also provides critical insulative and corrosion protection to the 'exposed' wire. A Fluoropolymer compound was selected as the tone wire coating because it offers higher resistance to chemicals,water,and abrasion relative to plastics.

  • Tone wire located within a channel builtt onto the inner wall of conduit for easy location

  • High density polyethylene material for superior resistance to cracking or shattering of conduit

  • UV protection to protect from cracking during storage or when used as a ground riser

  • Continuous length conduit installs faster than PVC stick pipe

  • Provides excellent cable removal and replacement capabilities

  • Available with pre-installed CommScope cable or pull line


Density Test Method ASTM D792A
Density, maximum 0.955 g/cm³
Density, minimum 0.941 g/cm³
Design Standard ASTM D335005
Environmental Stress Crack Resistance Failure rate of 10% within 96 hours
Environmental Stress Test Method ASTM D1693, ESCR Condition B
Flexural Modulus, minimum 552 N/mm² | 80000 psi
Flexural Property Test Method ASTM D790
Hydrostatic Design Basis Not pressure rated
Hydrostatic Design Test Method ASTM D2837
Material Type High density polyethylene (HDPE)
Melt Flow Rate Test Method ASTM D1238
Melt Flow Rate, maximum 0.39 g/10 min
Tensile Property Test Method ASTM D638
Tensile Strength at yield, minimum 21 N/mm² | 3000 psi

Minimum Bend Radius, unsupported 660.4 mm | 26.0 in
Pulling Tension, maximum 1043.3 kg | 2300.0 lb
Pulling Tension Note Applies to products manufactured after December 31, 2012
Pull Line Specifications
Breaking Strength 567.0 kg | 1250.0 lb
Material Type Polyester
Pull Line Type Tape
Tone Wire Specifications
Conductor Diameter 1.0236 mm | 0.0403 in
Conductor Elongation, maximum 30 %
Conductor Gauge 18 AWG
Conductor Material Type Copperclad
steel (CCS)
Conductor Resistance 30.0 ohms/kft
Conductor Tensile Strength, minimum 345 N/mm² | 50000 psi
Conductor Type Solid
Regulatory Compliance/Certifications
Agency Classification
ISO 9001:2008 Designed, manufactured and/or distributed under this quality management system
* Footnotes
Environmental Stress Crack Resistance ESCR—Environmental Stress Crack Resistence

Q: my laptop keeep on saying installing lite on camera crystal eye and it and put implug power cable and i dontt no what one is so what is a power cable pleasssse help ?
A power cable is an assembly of two or more electrical conductors, usually held together with an overall sheath. The assembly is used for transmission of electrical power. Power cables may be installed as permanent wiring within buildings, buried in the ground, run overhead, or exposed.
Q: I wanted to buy this card: What power cables will it need? Thanks in advance
You don't need any power cables. The board gets power from the mother board. You need a PCI-Express slot on your mother board. If you're asking about video cables to the monitor, it says in the listing... Interfaces 2 x DVI-I - 29 pin combined DVI , 1 x HDMI - 19 pin HDMI Type A , 2 x DisplayPort - Apple mini-DisplayPort You only need one of these unless you are running more than 1 monitor. I would look on your monitor and see what connections you have. (2) DVI-1 is common is older stuff, (1) HDMI is the newest technology and common for HDTV, (2) Apple ports for Apple enabled monitors.
Q: YJV three-core cable and the difference between the four-core cable
This phenomenon is generally the audio input has an AC signal amplified by the amplifier after the results, supplies a little short and good quality of the input of the smooth exchange of spring spring to help Tong burst Kun line test, if not improved that is the receiver problem.
Q: i have a cable modem that i lost the power cord to. i found another that fits but the output listed on the adapter is 12.5vdc. the modem lists +12vdc. can I use them together? i plugged it in and it lit up for a while but then went out but I don't really know how the modem is supposed to work if there's no internet connected to it.
You need the correct voltage and the correct current (amps) from your adapter. Look at the old adapter - it will say what the current output is (e.g., 2 AMPS).
Q: Where can i find the power cable for this specific TV brand ? GO-VIDEO-2050..?
Most TVs use two different types of power cable with either a normal female end or a two-prong narrow female end. Go to Best Buy and most likely you can find what you need.
Q: Please i need help
u can find about your power supply cable . its hp parts direct store number.
Q: I have a HP Printer and have lost my power cable, now I am having trouble identifying the type of lead that goes in the hole (see pic link)I am in the UK
What is the model number of your HP printer? Is it the C3180? I am looking for a power adapter for the C3180, and I believe the HP AC Adapter model number 0957-2178 is the correct one, but I'll find out for sure in a few days as I am ordering one. If you tell me the model number of your HP printer, I may be able to help you out because I have learned a lot about HP printer AC Adapters in the last few hours.
Q: I have one Ethernet cable running to a WiFi antenna. The antenna is powered by the Ethernet cable, using PoE. I want to be able to plug the current cable into a hub or switch, so I can connect other devices (non PoE) like an Xbox 360 or PC, but I also need to maintain the PoE to the antenna. Taking the antenna off PoE is not an option. What kind of device can I use to split this PoE line into PoE and non PoE cables?
The easy answer is that you need a POE switch. There's nothing really special about a POE cable, a POE enabled piece of equipment just uses the extra pins to provide the power. If you try setting up POE switch dumb switch antenna, the dumb switch will not forward the power to the Antenna. You can get a dumb switch, put it where your POE switch is now, then move your POE switch to wherever it is that you want to add equipment, and that should work if you don't want to spend the extra cash for another POE device. In that scenario, it's just a non-PoE connection from the regular switch to the new spot for the PoE switch, then PoE from that switch to the antenna, and the remainder of the devices will connect to the additional ports as non-PoE
Q: It's the newest ps2 (the thin ps2) I have all cables. Except the power cable isn't the official power cable. Is that a problem?
It's impossible to tell if it's your PS2 or the cable. Best bet is you buy an original PS2 power cable and try it out. If the PS2 still doesn't power up, it's something wrong with your PS2 and you will have to get it repaired or buy a new one.
Q: u know the big power cable that hooks onto ur positive terminal. it's a piece of metal on the tip that's round and has a hole in the middle to hook it onto ur screw. my step brother cut the middle of it with pliers and alot of the top part is gone, is this the reason my sub isn't powering on? also it wouldn't fit on the screw obviously. so how do i fix this problem. get a different wire with a bigger end piece? thanks for ur time
cut the old end piece off. Thats called a terminal by the way, and find a terminal at radio shack, or autozone that fits under your positive battery terminal bolt properly then take your wire, strip it back about a half inch twist the wires so u have no frays, insert it into the new terminal....now this is the hard part......with the wire still inside the terminal set it on something solid, use something flat but not bigger than the terminal (like a 1/4 ratchet extension_ and a hammer and pound that terminal in one spot till you have the wire stuck in there real good.. dont throw your wire away they are too expensive!

Send your message to us

This is not what you are looking for? Post Buying Request

Similar products

Hot products


Hot Searches

Related keywords