• polyethylene conduit with an integrated toning wire System 1
  • polyethylene conduit with an integrated toning wire System 2
polyethylene conduit with an integrated toning wire

polyethylene conduit with an integrated toning wire

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 m.t.
Supply Capability:
1000 m.t./month

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conduit is made from high quality high-density polyethylene (HDPE). The conduit meets industry standard wall thickness in ¾,1,1¼,1½,and 2 inch diameters. The polyethylene is blended with a premium UV stabilization and protection package. Our unique toning wire is 18-gauge copper clad steel (CCS) coated with a fluoropolymer jacket. The wire is located within a channel built onto the inner wall of the conduit. An 18-gauge wire was selected to maintain wall thickness and provide optimal tone carrying characteristics. CCS provides the necessary amount of copper to carry a tone over long distances and a steel core that is more durable than a solid copper wire. The fluoropolymer allows the wire to move independently of the conduit eliminating stresses on the wire and conduit. The fluoropolymer coating also provides critical insulative and corrosion protection to the 'exposed' wire. A Fluoropolymer compound was selected as the tone wire coating because it offers higher resistance to chemicals,water,and abrasion relative to plastics.

  • Tone wire located within a channel builtt onto the inner wall of conduit for easy location

  • High density polyethylene material for superior resistance to cracking or shattering of conduit

  • UV protection to protect from cracking during storage or when used as a ground riser

  • Continuous length conduit installs faster than PVC stick pipe

  • Provides excellent cable removal and replacement capabilities

  • Available with pre-installed CommScope cable or pull line


Density Test Method ASTM D792A
Density, maximum 0.955 g/cm³
Density, minimum 0.941 g/cm³
Design Standard ASTM D335005
Environmental Stress Crack Resistance Failure rate of 10% within 96 hours
Environmental Stress Test Method ASTM D1693, ESCR Condition B
Flexural Modulus, minimum 552 N/mm² | 80000 psi
Flexural Property Test Method ASTM D790
Hydrostatic Design Basis Not pressure rated
Hydrostatic Design Test Method ASTM D2837
Material Type High density polyethylene (HDPE)
Melt Flow Rate Test Method ASTM D1238
Melt Flow Rate, maximum 0.39 g/10 min
Tensile Property Test Method ASTM D638
Tensile Strength at yield, minimum 21 N/mm² | 3000 psi

Minimum Bend Radius, unsupported 660.4 mm | 26.0 in
Pulling Tension, maximum 1043.3 kg | 2300.0 lb
Pulling Tension Note Applies to products manufactured after December 31, 2012
Pull Line Specifications
Breaking Strength 567.0 kg | 1250.0 lb
Material Type Polyester
Pull Line Type Tape
Tone Wire Specifications
Conductor Diameter 1.0236 mm | 0.0403 in
Conductor Elongation, maximum 30 %
Conductor Gauge 18 AWG
Conductor Material Type Copperclad
steel (CCS)
Conductor Resistance 30.0 ohms/kft
Conductor Tensile Strength, minimum 345 N/mm² | 50000 psi
Conductor Type Solid
Regulatory Compliance/Certifications
Agency Classification
ISO 9001:2008 Designed, manufactured and/or distributed under this quality management system
* Footnotes
Environmental Stress Crack Resistance ESCR—Environmental Stress Crack Resistence

Q: Seem to have misplaced both the power cable and adaptor for my hp printer scanner all in one and every where i look i cant seem to pick them up can any1 help me ?
Start with the model number of the scanner and find a power supply. Carl
Q: I recently switched to cable tv ,internet telephone. i now have 2 tv converter boxes + modem box(?) on 24/7. i did not have that equipment before.my electric use is up 1.5 kw a day vs last year since the change. at first i blamed it on a warmer summer. but the last few weeks have been mild and the new bill today is still higher.did changing and the new equipment cause the extra electric use ?
look at the back of each device. it will show you a current rating and usage, exmple 45 watts. Add em up Whats strange is that they draw power even when turned off.some even more when off. use a power strip with an on off switch so you can turn them all off when not in use. Turn them all on watch your electric meter spin. Unplug them and watch it spin. The difference is your savings.
Q: I'm looking to add another Light fixture on the other side of the garage, and wire it using the existing cable from the first light, I know running a normal power cable outside drywall is against code, but I've heard some people say you can use something like BX cable, or some metal encased cable outside of drywall and still be up to code? Is there a I can run this cable outside of the drywall using something like that, and if yes, what exactly would I need to use to accomplish this? I plan I running the wire from the right side of the garage door, up above the door, and to the left side of the door to install a matching light.
Plastic grey conduit is the way to go easy to work with just need a hack saw and some glue
Q: need to buy for sharp aquas 52 inch flat screen
It's a universal AC power cord. The same one you would use for most other flat panels, desktop pcs, and the PS3. Go to your local Best Buy. They have them in 2 places: Playstation 3 accessories or the PC cable isle in Computers. $10 give or take a couple bucks.
Q: keep in mind this is a 6 yr old machine, the old roms connected the old way, I don't even know the name of the old cables.....
that okorder /
Q: Its on power and one is in a pc monitor and one is lying on the ground. Will the electricity go through the cable that is not connected and lying on the ground? is this safe to touch with hands or shoes?
Pasting the reply I gave to the other (deleted) question: Assuming these are the IEC-standard power cables I'm thinking of, yes and no respectively. Electricity will be able to reach both ends, but the plastic insulation at the end of these connectors should disallow any contact between you and the live pins. You may want to consider covering it up in non-conductive electrical tape, though, just to be sure no debris get in causing it to go live outside of the connector.
Q: Help in English:do these expressions have exactly the same meaning?
A cable is usually thicker than a cord. When I hear power cable, I tend to think of industrial machinery.
Q: my sub came loose and started sliding around in my boot until the power cable got ripped out of the amp while i was driving at it was on. When i tried putting the power back in it just blew the fuses, so i bought some more, and they blew as soon as they went in as well, and one of the bits of metal melted putting one it! strathfield said its 45 for an inspection, plus the cost of fixing it. any ideas whats wrong with it and if i can fix it myself??cheers.
Check your wiring, you have a wire cross if it bows when turned on. Also you might be using the wrong fuse, what is the rating of your amp (15 amps = 1800 watts). Or you are diving the amp too hard and prevent it from damage and blowing the fuse. Upgrade the fuse to 25 amps and see what happens.
Q: Soooooo I don't know much about electronics, but... I'm pretty that my AC power cable for my new receiver was made wrong. You know how it supposed to have a positive and a negative pins? well they are both the same. I know that the wall outlet has the little whole and the bigger one. I've seen some AC power cables that only have the little flat pins so they fit on the wall outlet. My cable has two of the big flat pins... so I can't plug it in the outlet. What do I do? is there like a plug I could buy? I've been using google but I can't find anything...
The hot side of outlets has a smaller socket dimension, and that's supposed to prevent a plug that has an assigned neutral from being plugged in with the neutral (wider blade) side connected to the hot side. If your plug has two of the wider blades, then that does sound like a manufacturing defect. I'd complain to the manufacturer or vendor. Hopefully the power cord is removable, so you don't have to return the whole unit.
Q: where do i put the wire through from the inside of the car to the battery located under the hood?
you have to find a hole in the firewall and make your way through.. I have an 02 explorer, i found a plastic cap where some electrical wires went through to the engine, so i drilled another hole in the cap, (very carefully) and used a rubber washer to seal the gap. Make sure you dont leave any gaps in your firewall, and avoid drilling a hole in the actual firewall AT ALL COSTS!! hope that helps!

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