• Polished Porcelain Tile Professional Manufacturer System 1
  • Polished Porcelain Tile Professional Manufacturer System 2
Polished Porcelain Tile Professional Manufacturer

Polished Porcelain Tile Professional Manufacturer

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1324 carton
Supply Capability:
132400 carton/month

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China polished porcelain tile

 

 

tile type

Porcelain tiles, porcelain polished, floor tiles

certificate

CE, ISO9001

finished

Nano finish, matte finish, semi polished

Size

60x60 80x80

Available in

many designs, size, colors

Material

Porcelain

Dimension

600x600 300x600 300x300mm

Packing

Paper packing and wooden pallets

Finish

polished finish with superglossy

Usage

Floor and wall

 

Polished Porcelain Tile Professional Manufacturer

Polished Porcelain Tile Professional Manufacturer

Polished Porcelain Tile Professional Manufacturer

Polished Porcelain Tile Professional Manufacturer

 

 

FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers, due to the carton factory can’t arrange production if quantity is below 5000 pcs.

 

Q: I purchased a DIY tile backsplash kit which costs originally $134.00. Kit includes 15 sq feet of tile, grout and tools needed to install. Lowe‘s sells the kit. The problem is the color is not the color I need. So I have this bright idea to paint the tile the color I want. I only paid $40.00 for the kit. I called one of the paint suppliers and they told me a spray paint I could use for the glass tile, however, I am afraid tha after I paint the tile, install it and then add the grouting, it may take the paint off!. I don‘t know, if it would or not. I was thinking I could spray polyurethan over the tile before I grout it or would that work? Not sure what to do. This kit is a new method for putting up a backsplash in your kitchen. It is actually peel and stick and then you must grout within 2 hours.
confusing step research with yahoo or google that will might help
Q: I am looking at removing the existing wooden fire place surround (not a mantel, but some decorative wood surrounding the fireplace), and the 70‘s fireplace hearth, and replacing each with some nice slate tiles. The slate would be attached to the wall, and to the floor. Is there anything I should know when attaching (slate) tiles to a wall? Do I need to remove any paint, or can I get an adhesive that will bond (PL Premium or regular mortar mix?). How close should the grout lines be with slate? I know with marble you want them close, and with ceramic you can have some space. How do you ensure the tiles don‘t slip when attached to a vertical wall. Sorry for the questions, but I do appreciate any suggestions and answers!
Only loose paint needs to be removed. If your paint has no chips or bubbles there's no reason to try taking it off. Your grout lines can be from 1/8 to 1/4' depending on your preference. Use a premixed ceramic wall adhesive such as Pro-Lastic, Pro-Flex, or Pro-Mastic Thinset. To keep tiles from slipping, simply start at the floor and work up, applying spacers between the tiles as you work. The adhesive will keep the tiles from falling off the wall, and the spacers and tiles below will keep them from sliding down. Some tiles come with built in plastic spacers for wall installation. It is possible for the tiles to sag a little so check with a level from time to time.
Q: I have a black and white tile floor, and most everything that I have tried has left it very slick even after it is dried. Does anyone know of any homemade product to clean it? I am also willing to try comercial products also. I am tired of my family slipping.
Tile is a smooth surface, it will tend to be a bit slick. The best product to clean tile with is vinegar and water. My son has a tile business and suggests this to the homeowners he does work for.
Q: Would like to tile my bathroom floor. House is on a slab, bathroom has existing laminate flooring.1. Do I need to remove the laminate flooring or can I tile on top of it?2. Do I need to install a backer board first?3. Any tips I need when tiling around toilet plumbing and reinstalling the toilet?
Absolutely cannot tile atop laminate. Neither ceramic or vinyl tile can go atop a laminate. You said your on a slab so you can bond right to that normally . You won t know what you ll need as far as to treat the slab until you pull stool and laminate. Stool should go right back on w/ a wax ring if laminate is down now. I don t chance it. I get the slightly higher wax ring w/ a sleeve when I re install a stool. When tiling around a stool flange just cut/nip the tile almost up to it, you have almost an inch of play. Any questions e mail me direct thru my avatar and check my qualifications there GL
Q: My bf and I are removing the tiles from the bathroom wall with a chisel and hammer; however, we live in an apartment building, so I was wondering if there‘s an easier way to remove the tiles by softening the grout around them.
No there isn't any way to soften the grout or thin-set. You just have to pry/bang them or smash the hole wall with a sledge hammer.
Q: I‘m installing new tile in my bathroom and had a few questions.1. I understand that I‘m supposed to remove the toilet prior to laying the tile. So I remove the toilet, lay new tile, and then put the toilet on top of the tile? Does this mean that the toilet will sit on the tile? If so, won‘t there be a very little gap where the tile and toilet meet? Are you supposed to seal this gap? Or, do you cut the tile around the shape of the bottom of the toilet and tile around it?2. Same question with the vanity. I‘m replacing my old vanity. Do I have to remove the old vanity, lay tile in the whole area where the old vanity was, and then install the new vanity on top of the tile? Again, what about the small gap? Does it need to be sealed? What do you seal it with?3. How do you remove the old vanity? Do you simply disconnect the plumbing, remove the screws holding it to the wall, and pry it from the wall?Any comments, suggestions, or advice are appreciated.
Its best to have the floor go under the vanity, and never tile around a toilet it will look terrible.. 1. Remove toilet by turning off water valve, disconnecting supply line and unscrewing flange bolts. 2. Remove vanity by turning off water valves, disconnecting supply lines and drain. This can be done with a channel lock wrench. Then unscrew any screws that are holding it into wall. 3. Tile the floor. As for the closet flange for the toilet, ideally you want it on top of your floor. You may be able to unscrew it and raise it up a half inch or so. If not, tile around it and use a double wax ring when you reset the toilet. 4. Reset vanity and reconnect supply and drain lines
Q: What is the finish height of tile after grout and tile??? For example if I were to lay tile how much would it bring up the floor?? 1half inch???
Depends on the thickness of your tile. Thinset is usually installed using a 1/4x1/4x1/4 notched trowel which translates to about 1/8 after tile are set on average. The average floor tile is about 3/8 which combined comes to 1/2 total thickness of product. Hope that helps.
Q: I‘m having linoleum put in my kitchen and I‘m want to prep the floor. We already tore the carpet up and we weren‘t sure if we should clean the carpet adhesive off the ceramic tiles, or remove the tiles from the concrete.
You are better off ripping out the tiles first. If you really want to lay the hardwood over the tiles, first lay down 3/4 plywood so you have something to staple the new floor to. The ply is glued down with PL, and then screwed into the tiles/sub floor. You will need to pre drill with a masonary bit, and screw in every 12 inches. Seems like more work than ripping the tiles out. And adds an extra 3/4 + tile height + hardwood - how will that transition to other rooms for other information you can check my source site
Q: I found answers about laying tile and a backer board over linoleum I didn‘t know if they would be the same. What would cause tile to crack if it‘s places directly on concrete?
If a homeowner asked me to lay any kind of tile other than vinyl over the top of vinyl I would not warranty anything. The non vinyl tile will be adhered extremely well with the thinset to the vinyl tile, however, the vinyl tile, while it's stuck to the concrete, does have movement. If the sub floor moves something in the thinset, grout or porcelain/ceramic tile will have to give. If the thinset gives your tiles will come loose. If the grout gives you will spend the next 15 years replacing grout once a month. If the tile gives you will have cracks in the surface of the tile that creates a sharp edge to cut your feet on. Or a combination of the three. You must remove the vinyl. You can purchase a removal tool at Home Depot for a couple bucks. You can also get a day laborer that you will have to watch but will do the work for you for probably $75 or so. Once you have the tiles up and the floor cleaned (you don't have to be neurotic about the cleaning as the thinset will float over some things on the concrete) you'll need to inspect for cracks in the concrete. If there are cracks you'll need to purchase a crack mitigation kit. You can find them in the tile section of Home Depot. You'll need the package as well as the primer. There are instructions on the package but basically you cut the stuff to fit with a utility knife. Paint the primer on the floor and let dry as per instructions. Paint on the glue and lay the material over the glue. Let dry as per instructions and you're ready to tile with no worries about cracking tile.
Q: Classification of ceramic tiles
4, antique brick: not China's ceramic industry's products, is introduced from abroad. Antique tiles are evolved from glazed tiles, essentially glazed porcelain tiles. Compared with ordinary glazed tiles, the difference is mainly reflected in the color of the glaze above, antique tiles are ordinary tiles, and the disk is basically the same, the so-called antique, refers to the effect of brick, antique effect should be called tiles, Antique brick is not easy to clean. The only difference is in the firing process, the antique brick technical requirements are relatively high, thousands of tons of hydraulic press after pressing, and then by thousands of high temperature sintering, to its high strength, with a strong wear resistance, carefully developed Antique tiles both waterproof, non-slip, corrosion-resistant features. Antique brick imitation of the past style to do the old, with a unique charm with classical people to attract people's eyes, to reflect the vicissitudes of life, the history of heavy, antique brick through the style, color, pattern, to create a nostalgic atmosphere. 5, ceramic tiles: also known as mosaic, specifications, thin and small, hard texture, acid, alkali, wear, no water, strong pressure, not broken, colorful and versatile. 6, quintana brick: This is a glazed porcelain tiles, a very good anti-skid and wear resistance. Generally speaking, "anti-skid tiles" are mostly quintana bricks. As this kind of brick price is moderate, popular consumer favorite.

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