• Polished Porcelain Tile Crystal White Serie CMAX0509 System 1
  • Polished Porcelain Tile Crystal White Serie CMAX0509 System 2
Polished Porcelain Tile Crystal White Serie CMAX0509

Polished Porcelain Tile Crystal White Serie CMAX0509

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1382.4
Supply Capability:
1000000 m²/month

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Product Features Polished Porcelain Tile Crystal White Serie CMAX0509 :

 

  Polished Porcelain Tile, Double Loading

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Glossiness: 85 Degree

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Technical characteristics:

 

 

Adopt international advanced ceramic cloth exquisite processing technology, selected high

 

quality pure raw materials, on the product body, with moist and gorgeous color, microcomputer

 

total precision control, multiple temperature control forming technology create gorgeous texture

 

hd grain boundary, bottom dense embryo thicker, pure texture, deduces the natural stone material through the external environment and the geological characteristics and the dynamic form of change,

 

also make products with high hardness, high gloss, low water absorption, strong dirt resistance, easy

 

to clean, etc excellent characteristic

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

  For 800x800mm, 3pcs/Ctn, 28 Ctns/Pallet, 616 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1182.72m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

 

Polished Porcelain Tile Crystal White Serie CMAX0509

Polished Porcelain Tile Crystal White Serie CMAX0509

 

 

FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers, due to the carton factory can’t arrange production if quantity is below 5000 pcs.

 

 

Q: Would they be easy to remove and not damage the floor (ugly linoleum) when I have to move out at the end of the year?
Damage? No. But how are you going to get them and the adhesive off when you go?
Q: Real estate tiles where the tiles as Guangzhou? What are the consequences if the wall is not good?
It is recommended to go to the building materials market to see, choose the brand of tiles also try to choose a large brand, quality guaranteed. But also their own hands to test the quality. Do it yourself
Q: Installing support bars on bathtub ceramic tile
Use a nail set and a hammer (gently) to break the glaze where you wish to drill. Then, using a tile bit or carbide tipped masonry bit, slowly drill your hole through the tile. If you use a hammer drill, turn the hammer action off. It will increase the chance of breaking the tile immensely. EDIT: Masonry bit works very well on ceramic, marginally well on porcelain.
Q: I want to replace the existing ugly linoleum/vinyl floor in my bathroom with tile. With the right information and tools, I don‘t see why I can‘t do it myself. Any ideas on the pros and cons of different types of tile? What‘s least likely to get scratched, and what is least likely crack and need to be replaced? Which is easiest to clean, etc.? I‘m not crazy about a rough feel or look to the tile. So, I‘m thinking of glazed ceramic or polished stone. Also, my bathroom is very small. I wouldn‘t need to use more than 35-40 square feet of tile. Do you think 12x12 size tiles would look too big? Any tips or suggestions will be appreciated!
Ceramic tiles that have a somewhat porous texture and somewhat marbled appearance. Porcelain and marble, as well a smooth-glazed ceramic, is too slippery. Stone is too porous and subject to trapping dirt (plus I once had a slate bathroom floor that constantly smelled like wet rocks when it got wet or damp). You can also get ceramic tile that looks like stone for less money. Solid colors - particularly white - are a major faux pas with a tile floor. Every piece of dirt, debris, hair, etc., is highly visible. Some kind of slight marbling or travertine looking pattern hides these well. 12 x 12 is an excellent size for a bathroom floor tile. If you have a wood subfloor, make sure you install a layer of 1/2-inch wonderboard and a leveling compound (plasticized cement slurry), plus a slipsheet (plasticized paper layer) before putting down the thinset and tiles. This will ensure that the floor is extremely solid, and that the difference in thermal expansion between the underlayment and the tiles won't result in tile or grout cracking.
Q: We had to remove some tile and break out the wall behind our shower/bath wall in order to put in a new part for new fixtures. So, now we need to repair that portion of the wall (about 3‘x2‘) and re-tile it. Do we need to use greenboard (it looks like either that or just drywall was used originally) or cement board? Also, how do we join the new portion of backing to the old portion? When tiles are removed, they damage the old backing -- so I can‘t take off an extra row of tiles and then have that backer exposed in order to tape and put mortar over. Hubby says we can cut the backer to fit the opening, and then just go ahead and tile, and that the grout will effectively seam and waterproof those joints where the new backing meets the old tiled backing. Any suggestions?
I recently retiled my bathroom and checked the instructions for several backerboard manufacturers. They all recommended filling the seams with alkali resistant joint mesh and thinset mortar (or a similar product). I think the problem with just using grout is that there can be movement in the walls that may cause the seam eventually leak water. I would try to tape/mortar the seams.
Q: Please help! and give as much information you can about the invention of tiles!
The earliest finds of roof tiles are documented from a very restricted area around Corinth (Greece), where fired tiles began to replace thatchet roofs at two temples of Apollo and Poseidon between 700-650 BC.[1] Spreading rapidly, roof tiles were within fifty years in evidence for a large number of sites around the Eastern Mediterranean, including Mainland Greece, Western Asia Minor, Southern and Central Italy.[2] Early roof tiles showed an S-shape, with the pan and cover tile forming one piece. They were rather bulky affairs, weighting around 30 kg apiece.[3] Being more expensive and labour-intensive to produce than thatchet, their introduction has been explained with their greatly enhanced fire resistance which gave desired protection to the costly temples.[4] The spread of the roof tile technique has to be viewed in connection with the simultaneous rise of monumental architecture in archaic Greece. Only the appearing stone walls, which were replacing the earlier mudbrick and wood walls, were strong enough to support the weight of a tiled roof.[5] As a side-effect, it has been assumed that the new stone and tile construction also ushered in the end of 'Chinese roof' (Knickdach) construction in Greek architecture, as they made the need for an extended roof as rain protection for the mudbrick walls obsolete. You could get more information from the link below...
Q: I want to add a backsplash with a 4x4 ceramic tile. I only want to go up 1 or 2 tiles in height not the whole wall area. Edges of the tiles are not black for the unfinished ceramic. How do I make the edges look finished or black also?
Most tile patterns have edge pieces just for this purpose. When you go shopping for your tile, check to see if there are matching edge pieces in the same color. Edge pieces are narrow, beveled or rounded off in some way so you can just butter them in along the last row of tiles and give it a finished look. Talk to the shop folks and see what they've got for you.
Q: We are buying our first home and want to do some updating but are on a budget. We are not experienced in do-it-yourself home projects but would like to try.How simple or how difficult is installing carpet tiles? We know nothing about them really.
you can do it- just follow instructions. When I was a kid we garbage picked the carpet stores for left over remnants- any size. When we had enough we took them to the basement and randomly glued them to the floor for a patchwork design. If a kid can glue carpet down- so can you.
Q: My mothers house has 9 tiles on her bathroom floor and I understand they are made with asbestos. Some of the tiles are starting to lift and I am concerned about how to remove and dispose of them, any suggestions?
well, if you don't remodel then you are ok without a permit. Otherwise the legal thing to do is call an expert to removed them. I would be careful not to cause any airborne particles to breath and remove them yourself. Spray water on it, then dispose it in a trash bag. The each trash pick up, would throw out a little at time. The asbestos removers do that anyway.
Q: is there any benifits to having the tiled ceilings? please answer ASAP
I'm a construction manager who has built a lot of schools. There are several reasons. First is that there are all kinds of wiring and piping and ductwork systems up in the ceilings above your head. In order to hide them, dropped ceiling frames are installed with removable tiles so that the maintenance people can get up there to service the systems. Second, the tiles are acoustic absorbing material to reduce echoing and keep the room more quiet. Third is for temperature regulation, insulating the space and reducing the height of the room to make it easier to cool it or warm it. And of course, there is the extra bonus that you can get a pencil or a spoonful of canned peas to stick to it so it falls on somebody later on (I may be an adult, but I remember being a schoolkid).

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