Polished Porcelain Tile White Color CMAX26601

Polished Porcelain Tile White Color CMAX26601 System 1

Polished Porcelain Tile White Color CMAX26601 System 2

Polished Porcelain Tile White Color CMAX26601

Ref Price:

Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1400 m²

Supply Capability:: 10000 m²/month

Inquire Now

Add to My Favorites

OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

Product Description:

Product information:

Material: soluble salt porcelain

Various colors are available

Size: 600 x 600mm

Thickness: 10mm

Features: non-slip, wear- and water-resistant

Packing: 4 pieces/carton, 29.5kg/carton

20-foot container: 880 cartons

20-foot FCL container: 1267sqm

Carton with pallets or customized

Primary Competitive Advantages Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046 :

First choice,top grade.

Water absorption:<0.1%.< p="">

Delivery Time:15~25 days after deposit.

Certicate: CE,ISO9001,Soncap,etc.

Competitive price and good quality

Usage— Suitable for home, high grade office buildings, high-grade hotel, airport, shopping mall,

deluxe clubs floor and wall tiles etc.

This series of products in addition to good wear resistance with ultrafine tiles, flexural strength,

and low water absorption, the appearance of the product, due to be fired into a crystal frit, so

three-dimensional effectprominent, white the texture clear, natural, delicate harmony and balance without duplication, with impeccable decorative effect, close to natural stone.

Product Features

Polished Porcelain Tile, Double Loading

Only Grade AAA available

Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

Competitive price

Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

Fast delivery

OEM service could be offered

Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

Technical characteristics:

Adopt international advanced ceramic cloth exquisite processing technology, selected high

quality pure raw materials, on the product body, with moist and gorgeous color, microcomputer

total precision control, multiple temperature control forming technology create gorgeous texture

hd grain boundary, bottom dense embryo thicker, pure texture, deduces the natural stone material through the external environment and the geological characteristics and the dynamic form of change,

also make products with high hardness, high gloss, low water absorption, strong dirt resistance, easy

to clean, etc excellent characteristic

Product Picture :

Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046

Production Line :

Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046

Product Certificates :

Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046

Packing Details :

Polished Porcelain Tile ST36046

FAQ

1. For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.

2. What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

3. Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers, due to the carton factory can’t arrange production if quantity is below 5000 pcs.

Q: I am installing commercial tile and I have no idea what tool is used to cut this kind of tile, it easily breaks if its bent too hard. I need to cut curved areas on this tile and I have no idea what too to use. Please help! ;): If you are talking about vinyl tile you can use an hair drier to soften the tile so you can cut it without it crumbling. Use a curved tin snip or a utility knife to cut after softening. You should be able to lay it flat on the floor, soften it, scribe it with the utility knife, and then snap it. If you are talking about ceramic tile you should use a tile saw. You can rent one for about $60/day. You can buy one in Home Depot or Lowe's for about $90.

Q: How to remove the shoe oil into the tiles: Use mineral oil, alcohol or acetone wipe. With a clean cream, Yi Jie clean cream, to ensure that can be removed,

Q: How did the tiles come out?: 2, quintana bricks The surface of the whole body is not glazed, and the front and the back are consistent with the material and color. Quintana bricks are a kind of wear-resistant tiles, although there are varieties such as seepage through the whole body, but relatively speaking, its color than glazed tiles. As the current interior design more and more tend to plain design, so the quintana brick more and more become a fashion, is widely used in the hall, aisle and outdoor walkway and other renovation projects on the ground; generally less used in the wall. Most of the anti-skid brick are all bricks.

Q: Complete DIY newbie here with an outdated bathroom that I want to make a master. The floor is covered in hideous 1x1 tiles. I will replace this tile with some 12x12 or 8x8. Any suggestions on how to get this stuff off?: How To Remove Mosaic Tiles

Q: What type of drill bit should I buy to cut into 4 x 4 ceramic tile on the wall? Can I place the bit into a router? The hole is 10 x 10 and I need it to be 10 1/2 x 10 1/2. There is 5/8 DW w/ metal studs behind it.: Your best bet if your a 1st timer is to have everything layed out and know what your going to do ahead of time..Rent a wet saw to make all your cuts and have a helper / runner to do these if possible.. This will cut down on your time and rental.Straight cuts can be done on a hand cutter but may be harder for the 1 st timer especialy for the beginner w/ some porcelains..Holes can be cut by top and back cutting a square hole since some pipes will have covers.. If not you sometimes you have to split a tile and nip or cut a slot for the pipe..Stool flanges and diverter covers can be nipped sometimes so a pair of tile nippers are a good investment... To start center the tile in room and lay out.. If you end w/ 1/2 a tile or smaller recenter the tile so center line is in the middle of the tile.. Some times you have to make small adjustments in this to get a good lay out GL

Q: i going to tile my whole house both floors bath room and all with the same tile it is a 20x20 tile diagonally where should i start and does it really matter where ?: Start doing the largest area and do a 1/2 tile on the out side wall. All interior walls are supposed to be layed out to the out side and be square. Now if you have a long visible hall way near by, you may want to split that to get a good look at it from there. Its hard to positively say with out seeing it. I could visualize it then. Since this is a diagonal you cant control to much where the tiles land. If it were a straight lay, you d have a bit more control as to the layout. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL

Q: My new home has a kitchen with glazed ceramic tiles covering most of the walls.The colour is basically honey brown, but there‘s a hideous purple border (in the same tile size shape) running horizontally vertically all over the place - I‘d say that 20% of the tiles are this colour.I want to reduce all the tiles to one (new) colour.Two guys (both pros) have this to say:GUY 1: Cheapest solution (and least noisy/disruptive) is to use a ‘glass enamel paint‘ over the tiles. I went online and found several manufacturers of this stuff.GUY 2: Scoffed at this and said there was no other way than retiling the whole kitchen.Guy 1 is adamant that it can be done, and the job will last if enough care is taken in preparing the surface.Is he right?Has anyone tried this ‘re-enamelling‘ technique, and were the results OK?Thanks!: Just my 2 cents. A couple of months ago I saw a bathroom with painted tile and it looked really different. It looked really cheap. I think you would be disappointed if you spent the time and money to paint the tiles.

Q: I need to tile a kitchen back splash from counter to cabinets. Backerboard at the moment is drywall, textured and painted. I‘d like to hear some opinions on tiling directly over this or using cement backer board. Also thinset or mastic?: Well, it depends on a few of things. If the drywall is really lumpy, I would use the cement board. If the area near the sink gets really wet, I would use the cement board. Honestly, I would try and smooth down the drywall before making the job any harder than it has to be. As for thin set vs. mastic, well I prefer mastic for thin small tiles because of the smaller notches and for wall work because I find there is less slippage, but they also say that mastic is not good to use in a wet area because it can mildew. Honestly if I were doing your job, I would leave the drywall and sand it down, (that is unless you are just talking about a normal light texture, then I would just leave it alone), use mastic and call it a day.

Q: We bought the tile. Our wall has new drywall behind (unpainted and clean). We are putting the tile from above the backsplash to under the wall cabinets. Can you please answer my questions:1) Do you prep the walls with anything? We bought this tub of stuff called Thinset... Is this the actual adhesive or is there something else used to put on afterward?2) We are doing our longest wall with counter and sink/window then corner and over to counter and stove then counter. Where would the starting point be? Corner or one wall?3) The wall cabinet on the open end is about 1/2 inch in then the base cabinet right below. If we start the tile from the bottom, when you get to the top, the tile will hang out from the wall cabinet by the 1/2 in. Do we use a straight line from the wall cabinet or base cabinet and it be off either way? 4) The tile is not coated or shiny. Once they are applied to the wall and then grouted and wiped clean, do you apply any coating?: you need spacers...( couple $'s a bag, only 1 bag needed..)You need to grout the tile after applying to the wall, wait 24 hrs or as the mortor says....I would recommend a grout sealer- they can be brush on or spray on..the grout will collect dust, grease and be a nightmare to clean ... in bathrooms you normally put backerboard before tile( it is made of concrete and keeps the water from penetrating to the drywall...imagine having to rip out the dryway and re do it....If they are simple sq tiles, no pattern involved, then you can start at the edge/ end...if you want the corners to be 2 perfect sqs meeting- that is where you should start- then you won't have a cut piece butting up to an uncut or two cuts meeting (this is what sounds right for your project) ...you can use the backsplash as a base---to support the tile as it dries. Use painters blue tape to help hold it to the wall until then....do one row all along the backsplash using the backsplash as support and a small piece of tape securing it to the wall until the mortor takes hold..remove the tape to start on the next row up and secure with tape as before... ntinue until done. Use spacers 1/4 to keep things straight...use a level to get 1st row straight, snap chalk line/ draw line... PLEASE- double check your thinset to be sure it is recommended for your size tile and for wall use...the premixed stuff has a tendency to shrink up as it dries (and it stays wet for a VERY long time esp in high humidity/ moist areas)...causing your tile to come free from the surface it is attatched to... I would get a small bag of the real, mix it yourself mortor- it is concrete and dries as such... I have used the premixed stuff and had terrible results. Have fun!