Low Smoke Non-Halogen Cable of Rated Voltage up to and Including 0.6/1kV

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 m

Supply Capability:: 100000 m/month

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Type and designation

Category		Insulation		Sheath		Shield or armoring		Characteristic
Code	Meaning	Code	Meaning	Code	Meaning	Code	Meaning	Code	Meaning
K	Control cable	E	Polyolefin	E	Polyolefin	P	Copper wire braid shield	ZR	Flame-retardant
								WD	Low smoke non-halogen
R	Flexible cable for connection					P2	Copper tape shield	NH	Fire-resistant
无	Power cable	YJE	Cross-linked polyolefin	YJE	Cross-linked polyolefin	22	Steel tape armoring	R	Flexible conductor construction

Example: KYJEE-WD-ZR means copper conductor cross-linked polyolefin insulated polyolefin sheathed low smoke non-halogen flame-retardant control cable. RYJEEP-WD-ZR means copper conductor cross-linked polyolefin insulated polyolefin sheathed copper wire braid shielded low smoke non-halogen flame-retardant flexible cable for connection. YJEE22-WD-NH means copper conductor cross-linked polyolefin insulated polyolefin sheathed steel tape armored low smoke non-halogen fire-resistant power cable.

Description of the purpose and usage properties

The cable is used for power distribution, electrical connection, electrical instrument and signal transmittal and control of electronic apparatus in high rises, subway and other large public facilities.

The maximum permitted long-term operating temperature of the polyolefin insulated cable shall be 70℃, and 150℃ for cross-linked polyolefin insulated cable.

The permitted bending radius of the cable with copper tape shielding or steel tape armoring shall not be less than 12 times of the outer diameter of the cable, and 6 times for all the other types of cables.

Q: i have a lightning audio amp, it was wokring a few months ago when i pulled it out of my car, i tried yesterday to see if it worked, it turned one for 5 seconds and went into protection mode, so i tested it with the battery and it did the same, and the cables got hot, and help please: you need bigger cables i think, as they heat up resistance gets higher, so the amp would not be getting enough power

Q: The power is a 24 pin and does not have a green wire. It has a grey, 6 red, 3 blue, a yellow , an Orange, a purple, a dark blue, 8 black, and a brown: MATERIALS 1.) power supply 2.) power cable 3.)paper clip Step 1 Plug in the Power Cable to the wall, and then into the back of the Power Supply. Make sure the Power Supply is flipped to 1 and not 0. I like to remember 1 is for power because 1 looks like I, and I have ADHD. So I always haves me some powers. 0 is like O which is like my OH face. Then I am drained of power. Step 2 Take the paper clip and bend it into a 'U' shape. We want the two ends of it to be next to each other, or relatively close. Step 3 Now we are in the final step. Locate the Green wire on your PSU. There should only be one Green wire, whether you have a 20 or 24 pin power cable. Alright, we found it. Now we get have to find a Black wire on your PSU as well. There are a few, but we should be fine. Finally, take the paper clip and insert one end into the Green wire and the other end into any Black wire. And there we have it. Your power supply is alive and kicking. Again, this is a good way to test fans for functionality, CD-ROMs, and Floppy Drives. Almost any component that will plug into this is fine. I would not advise for your hard drive in case of data loss, but if it's a questionable hard drive (why else would we test it?) then you I'm guessing you don't care if it has anything on it, or it's too old to matter.

Q: I'm curious, because I was looking through the 'combo deals' for a part for a potential build, and one of them was a SATA cable (item itself was a hard drive). Does Newegg, or for that matter any major computer retailer, sell products that come with all the cables you need to actually use the part? I guess I'm primarily concerned with Hard Drives and Disk Drives in this case... oh, and PSUs I guess. And the mobo, will that have the power cable?: they gained't come assembled, whether it extremely is lots much less demanding to construct a computing device than maximum persons think of. My first build I merely plugged each little thing into the only place it suits and accompanied the %interior the mobo handbook for the 7 tiny wires from the front of the case that bypass into the backside appropriate of the mobo. additionally positioned the processor and fan and ram into the mobo b4 you install it into the case. positioned the dvd stress and difficult stress in b4 you place interior the mobo too. lots much less demanding this way. For the thermal paste smear an extremely skinny layer on the right of the cpu then scrape with a razor blade, too lots isn't stable.

Q: it is not the power cable either: Motherboard possibly. Google it. I just did and found that as one possibility.

Q: I just put a new sound system in my boat with a sony xplod sub and amp, and also an infinity reference amp with 4 kenwood speakers. The problem i'm having is that i had to run the amp power cable right past the right rear speaker and now i'm getting a lot of feedback when the engine is turned on. Is there any way to insulate the power cable so that i don't get that annoying feedback through that one speaker? thanks-Josh: You have to move that wire away from the spk. is it close to the spk, or is the wire close to the one for the spk? You may be able to block the amp wire from the spk, by placing some wood of some sort between the two( hillbilly I know but...) The other thing you can try would be to wrap the amp wire with a plastic conduit, od a foam like expanding spray foam could shield it. You can also try a magnet ont he power wire to the spk.(that may take the feed back out of it.) Or try them all at once LOL(sorry but it might work) Just try to get the wires as far away from the other as possible. Hope that helps. Cheers Wiretheworld

Q: My computer speakers have a control tower(volume etc.) that plugs into the back of the subwoofer. I would like to move the tower further away from the sub then the cable allows. Is there an extension cable I could get?On the cable it says:2464 E205890 AWM 80C 300V VW-1SCThe end of the cable is round and has a row of two pins, then a row of 4 pins and then a row of 3 pins.: For Extend Power Cable!?. Find correct extention any store tools category Or find in internet Searching. Good Luck. Comentary: Take precaution about Where install and take all the precaution. I remember to find one in Lowes

Q: So I was trying to run wiring for a 220 outlet and I hit a lower leg with the metal cable snake, now a bunch of outlets loose power for a minute or two ever so often, 20 min give or take. What can be the cause? Only the top breaker tripped. How can this be repaired. Please help.: Would I be right in thinking you sort of tripped on flexible metal conduit in which electric cables run and now the power is intermittent and trips the breaker? I would start by isolating the circuit so it is no longer live and checking the connections at each end of the cable run because any strain on the conduit could have tugged wires out of their terminals. I'd make sure that all the connections were tight and the wires properly anchored and also that each wire is in the correct terminal. I once made a mistake when replacing a socket outlet because the terminals in the new one were the exact opposite of the old one. Luckily, I found it straight away when I tested the circuit. If the connections all look good, I'd check the continuity along each of the cables. It is inconceivable that the cables inside the metal conduit were damaged as they should be continuous cable runs with no joins. The continuity test will tell you if any cable is no longer continuous, but I'd be very surprised as long as the original installation was done properly to code (or wiring regulations in the UK). Obviously, before you start checking the cables, you would unplug or disconnect everything that is connected to them. If the fault only happens when some sort of machine or appliance is connected, then it suggests the fault is with the appliance or machine and not the wiring. A 20 minute cycle of faults makes we wonder whether there is a fridge or a freezer connected the circuit. If so, I'd get it checked for faults and check that the power connection to it is correctly wired. I am not an electrician, just an experienced home owner, so please double check anything I've said. Good luck.

Q: all i found was four power cables and 1 was for the floppy and the other 3 were the 4 color cable how can i power this 3rd hd with unplugging my cd drive?: goto the computer store and get a power plug T adapter or make one yourself u know cut, splice and tape or saulder just make sure it is in parallel yellow to yellow red to red etc...

Q: cable or do they need certain ones, I ask because this PSU: has no power cable with it so will i have to get a certain power cable for that wattage or are they all the same???please answer, 10 points for first answer: They all follow the same 3 pin power cord externally but they are not the same internally ie from the motherboard to the PSU.

Q: Hi will this Graphics card, require a power cable or do i just plug it into the slot and away it goes??: Nope. It just needs a regular AGP slot. Edit**** Wow, nice call Jedi Master... I didn't see that at first. It's kinda small.

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