• Hot Dipped Galvanized Razor Wire with Factory Price System 1
  • Hot Dipped Galvanized Razor Wire with Factory Price System 2
  • Hot Dipped Galvanized Razor Wire with Factory Price System 3
Hot Dipped Galvanized Razor Wire with Factory Price

Hot Dipped Galvanized Razor Wire with Factory Price

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
5 m.t.
Supply Capability:
5000 m.t./month

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Specification

Material:
Stainless Steel Wire,Galvanized Iron Wire
Cross Sectional Shape:
Round
Application:
Protectiong Mesh,Fence Mesh
Type:
Steel Coll,Galvanized
Wild in Width:
1.1M
Surface Treatment:
galvanized
Metal Wire Drawing:
Cold Drawing
Status:
Hard State
Thickness:
Metal Thick Wire
Galvanized Technique:
Hot Dipped Galvanized,Electro Galvanized

Razor barbed tape is a kind of modern security fencing materials fabricated with razor-sharp steel blade and high-tensile wire. Barbed Tape can be installed to achieve the result of frightening and stopping to the aggressive perimeter intruders, with piecing and cutting razor blades mounted at the top of the wall, also the special designs making climbing and touching extremely difficult.

    The wire and strip are galvanized to prevent corrosion. Razor wire can be installed in the form of barbed tape wire or concertina coil to walls or fencings.
 

Galvanized Razor Wire with Factory PriceGalvanized Razor Wire with Factory Price

Our services: 
1. Good after sales service: Any small problem happening will be solved at the most prompt time.
2. We have many years of experience, we have specializing in fastener.
3. Specifications list is available upon your requirement.
4. Packing as your request before shipment.
6. High quality and competitive price.

Usual Specifications:

ModelThicknessWire DiameterLengthWidthSpacing
BTO-100.5±0.05mm2.5±0.1mm12±1mm13mm26mm
BTO-120.5±0.05mm2.5±0.1mm12±1mm15mm26mm
BTO-180.5±0.05mm2.5±0.1mm18±1mm15mm33mm
BTO-220.5±0.05mm2.5±0.1mm22±1mm15mm34mm
BTO-280.5±0.05mm2.5±0.1mm28±1mm15mm34mm
BTO-300.5±0.05mm2.5±0.1mm30±1mm18mm34mm
CBT-600.6±0.05mm2.5±0.1mm60±1mm32mm96mm
CBT-650.6±0.05mm2.5±0.1mm65±1mm21mm100mm

PS: CBT: barbed tape concertina

      BTO: barbed tape obstacle


Q:Does anyone know where i can buy them? I need new ones because my crazy cat chewed up two of the wires lol =#92;
Hey there, That is unfortunate and I am quite sure that catfood is cheaper than speak cables these days. What you are looking for is standard speaker cables found in most sorted retailers. Try your local supermarket or electronics store.
Q:6000+ heat sinc wires?i up graded my cpu and the new heat sinc has a 4 wire conector and my old 3800+ heat sinc has 3 and mobo has 3 pin processor works great. sys recognizes amd 6000+ dual core processor @ 3.0 ghz but not the model #???? sys works great scored 10143 on 3DMARK 06 anyway the fan and temp s are all good any ideas what the other wire is
Yes, the fan on your heat sink has a fourth wire that..............(tune back in tommorrow folks, for the conclusion), (sorry, somebody's telling jokes over here!) The fourth wire is a Speed control wire. The first wire,(Red), is 12VDC,(power), the second,(Black), is the ground, should be a Blue wire, for rpm sensor, and the fourth,(color codes vary), is the wire that the BIOS uses to speed the fan up when the temp of the cpu raises, slows the fan down, when it isn't used as hard. Temp of the cpu, is found through one of it's pins on the bottom of it.
Q:Are toast - previous owner did a bad amp install on them and there is basically no wire left to use for mine.Is it possible to run a radio power wire/remote wire from the fuse panel back to the radio? If so can i just shove the wire in the fuse holder then stick the fuse back in on top of it?((Fuse 8 is the mustangs radio fuse))
Never wire anything into your fuse box, that will defeat the purpose of having it. You will have to do what's called a hard wire. You will need to run all new wires, which is the safest way to do it, with all proper fusing. A constant +12, a switched +12 and a ground is all you need for the radio to work, and all new speaker wires. If you can find one in a junkyard, you might be able to find a new harness to repair the OEM one, and that would really help you out. Good luck!
Q:I have a phone line with 8 wires that is wired to the house, how do you select which wire to use on a 4 wire phone line?
Phone line will pick up noise easily with compare to Ethernet cable, the cable has shield to reduce the interference. There is a reason why Ethernet cable is using instead of phone line. Terminal block will be fine for your in house Ethernet, there is no switch required.
Q:True or False?Branch wiring from a 200A - 3 phase 4 wire panelboard.WIRE #PHASES 1 --- PHASE A 2 --- PHASE B 3 --- PHASE C 4 --- NEUTRAL - WHITE WIRE 5 --- PHASE A 6 --- PHASE B 7 --- PHASE C 8 --- NEUTRAL 9 --- GROUNDTOTAL OF 9 WIRES GOING TO SIX (6) 20A 120V CIRCUITS
False! If you had 6 120v circuits each circuit has 1 phase, 1 neutral conductor and 1 ground conductor for a total of 3 wires per circuit. 6 circuits times 3 conductors equals 18 wires. You don't use the same neutral conductor for different phases but you can if they are the same phase provided you don't go over the maximum allowed current rating for that wire and insulation.
Q:Hello! I'm going to re-wire my speakers and eventually get an amp to power them. For normal quot;door speakerswhat wire size would you recomend to run to them from an amp? Also, is 3ft far enough away to run my speaker wires from the amp power wire? Thanks in advance!
I would use 16 gauge. you can go a little bigger, or smaller. The biggest issue you will have ( vehicle depending ) is getting that wire thru your accordion boot and molex ( the rubber thingy that protects your wires, shaped like an S, and goes from the chassis to the door) <~ that's not talking down to you, but if other people read this, they will know exactly what it means also :D Unless your running a ton of power to your doors, you really don't need thick wires. As to the other part, It's not the speaker wire you need to keep away from your power wire, it's your RCA cables.. The rule is power wire goes down the battery side of the vehicle, and the rca's and remote turn on, go down the opposite side, if possible. That way you don't get alternator whine( when you accelerate, a high pitched whine will play thru your system, and make you Bat-S#it crazy :) Good Luck!
Q:So I know that the neutral wire is the 'return wire'. But why does my textbook say that it has the potential to have the same amount of electricity as the live wire (if the wiring is faulty)? But essentially, if the wiring is not faulty it is technically safe to touch it, it has 0 volts.Could someone explain this to me?
In the absence of faults, the neutral should be safe. It is normally connected to ground at the supply entry board or at the substation/transformer. In the event that a neutral wire becomes disconnected between an appliance and the supply entry board, it will be at the same potential as the live wire.
Q:okay my apt building was built in 1975 I am changing my light fixture new from home depot and the ground wire, the black and white wire are basic on the new fixture. I am looking in the case box in my ceiling all I see is a black wire attached to red, and a yellow wire attached to a white wire which then attaches to another two white wires (then gos go's up behind the casing) I am not sure which is the ground here. There is a copper looking wire that is thick, thick it just isnt as malleable as the new ground wire that is on my new light fixture. It seems very difficult to maneuver.. Could this be my ground from the ceiling. It was attached to the mount of the old fixture my a screw.
The wire that was attached to the mount is your ground. (It should be thicker than the one from the fixture. - Use a 'wirenut' to make the connection.) The White wires will be your 'Neutrals'- 'White' from your new fixture. For the 'Black' from the fixture, use the same wire that was connected to the old fixtures 'black'. If you didn't keep track of which is which, then you are now 'in over your head'. Get experienced help before you cause damage or hurt yourself.
Q:i hav a 2000 explorer and just got a new head unit and bought a wiring harness to hook it up. on the wiring harness that's supposed to be plugged in to the truck there are 2 illumination wires, 1 of them is the illumination ground .Out of my new stereo there is only the illumination wire not an illumination ground wire. where do I put the illumination ground ? also i have 2 ground wires coming from my new deck 1 is 12v ground and the other is a chassis ground can i just hook them together?
workin for best answer 2000 Ford Explorer Car Stereo Radio Wiring Diagram. Car Radio Constant 12V+ Wire: Light Green goes to your yellow deck wire Car Radio Switched 12V+ Wire: Yellow/Black goes to your red deck wire Car Radio Ground Wire: Black goes to your black ground wire Car Radio Illumination Wire: Light Blue/Red goes to your illumination wire Car Radio Dimmer Wire: N/A Car Radio Antenna Trigger Wire: Blue Car Radio Amp Trigger Wire: N/A if u have a amp this goes to your blue remote wire Front Speakers Size: 5″ x 7″ Front Speakers Location: Doors Left Front Speaker Wire (+): Orange/Light Green Left Front Speaker Wire (-): Light Blue/White Right Front Speaker Wire (+): Dark Green/Orange Right Front Speaker Wire (-): White/Light Green Rear Speakers Size: 5″ x 7″ Rear Speakers Location: Rear Door Left Rear Speaker Wire (+): Gray/Light Blue Left Rear Speaker Wire (-): Tan/Yellow Right Rear Speaker Wire (+): Orange/Red Right Rear Speaker Wire (-): Brown/Pink hope this helps
Q:I have two DVC subs and I know how to wire them down to 1 ohm with the wires coming out of one outlet on the box but I don't know how to wire them down to 1 ohm with wires coming out of both sides of the box. Anyone have a wiring diagram for this?
For okorder /... On the inside of the enclosure, connect both positives and both negatives to the enclosure inside terminal. That makes each side of the enclosure 2 ohms. Mount and screw in the subs. Now, on the outside: 1) Observing polarity, run short jumpers between the terminals (positive to positive, negative to negative) and then connect ONE set of terminals to the amp (again observing polarity) (positive to positive, negative to negative. 2) Run separate wires from each set of terminals to the amp, observing polarity. That makes the final impedance to the amp 1 ohm.

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