Hot DIP Galvanized /Electric Galvanized /PVC Coated Barbed Wire

Hot DIP Galvanized /Electric Galvanized /PVC Coated Barbed Wire System 1

Hot DIP Galvanized /Electric Galvanized /PVC Coated Barbed Wire

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Loading Port:: Tianjin

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 2 m.t

Supply Capability:: 5000 m.t/month

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Product Description

Electro Galvanized Bared Wire
Hot Dipped GI Barded Wire
PVC Coated Bard Wire
Razor Barded Wire
ISO Certificated Razor Barbed Wire for Fencing
Barded Wire Materials: Low carbon steel wire. Electro GI Wire/ Hot Dipped GI Wire, and PVC coated iron wire in blue, green, yellow and other colors.

Barded Wire Specifications: 2 strands, 4 points. Barbs' distance 3-6 inches ( tolerance +-1/2")

Barded Wire Weaving and Characteristics: Twist and weave, with firm structure and beautiful appearance

Barded Wire General Use: Barbed wire mainly used as the protection net industry, agriculture, animal husbandry, dwelling house, plantation or fencing. Grass boundary, railway, highway, etc.

ISO Certificated Razor Barbed Wire for Fencing
specification:

Type	Wire Gauge (SWG)		Barb Distance (cm)	Barb Length (cm)
Electric Galvanized Barbed Wire; Hot-dip galvanized barbed wire	10# x 12#		7.5-15	1.5-3
	12# x 12#
	12# x 14#
	14# x 14#
	14# x 16#
	16# x 16#
	16# x 18#
PVC coated barbed wire; PE barbed wire	before coating	after coating	7.5-15	1.5-3
	1.0mm-3.5mm	1.4mm-4.0mm
	BWG11#-20#	BWG8#-17#
	SWG11#-20#	SWG8#-17#
	PVC PE coating thickness: 0.4mm-0.6mm; different colors or length are available at customers request.

Q: i have 2 audiobahn 12s and an adiobahn amp in my 2000 malibu...1. the thin blue wire that comes from the amp to the stereo is connected to an orange wire behing the (stock) stero, and when i turn off the car the amp stays on. does anyone know which wire to connect the blue wire to, so the amp turns off with my radio or when i turn off the key.2. only one of my 12s is hitting, i think ther might be a wire connected wrong behind the stero. since i have a stock stereo and i have a converter hooked up, because it had no rca inputs on it. its not the speaker or the rca wire itself, because when i connect it with a y cable to the amp one or the other will work...i would appreciate it if someone could help.: Your best bet at this point would be to get an aftermarket stereo anyways. Chances are it will put out more than twice the power your factory installed one does, and it will have line outs for your amplifier. I say will because some crappy ones do not, avoid those. Go out and buy a new radio, spend maybe 30 minutes installing it (it seems as if you already have the general idea on this kind of thing), and then take a little time to wire the amp to the new radio. A lot easier than looking up the wiring diagram for your car's factory radio, cutting and soldering wires, taking stuff apart, I dunno.

Q: I have two DVC subs and I know how to wire them down to 1 ohm with the wires coming out of one outlet on the box but I don't know how to wire them down to 1 ohm with wires coming out of both sides of the box. Anyone have a wiring diagram for this?: Well, okorder /...

Q: instead of using the wire its self could you put a terminal at the end of your audio wire and connect it to the amp, for your car audio. Because I just ordered 1/0 awg wire, but I don't think the wire will fit on the amp, so could I put a Y terminal at the end of my 1/0 gauge wire and connect that to my amp?: Depends okorder ... Another option would be a distribution block that allows a 0-gauge input and 4-gauge outputs. You could use this to reduce the wire size before the amplifier connection.

Q: So Ive never done wiring for my car, But my friends are willing to talk me through it. But the next time I can talk to them is next week and they kept telling me to tap into wires. but What does that mean? like, what does it mean to quot;tapinto the wires?: Tap means to splice into a wire. To join a new wire to the middle of an existing wire. Such as joining the wire for your new driving lights to the existing wire for the normal headlights. Before getting scared about cutting and soldering. Go to the parts store and get some IDCs. Just ask the counter guy for some suitcase connectors. You lay two wires next to each other and fold the IDC over them. When you squeeze it with pliers, it will join the two wires together.

Q: I wanted to ask, im busy installing a new stereo headset for my car,when i replaced the old stereo with the new one, i used the wire harness from the old stereo and joint the wires to the back of new the stereo (which there is another black adapter that goes in the wire harness area on the the new stereo) i did this by connecting the wires from the stereo adapter to the wire harness that connects to the car, although the adapter that connects to the stereo has more wires than the wire harness that connects to the car,( i only connected the wires that were matching such as grey wire to grey wire, grey wire with black strip to grey wire with black strip, and so on, i obviously didn't connect the colours that didn't match to the wire harness wires, although i looked up online and apparently the yellow wire is a power wire, but i don't know where to connect it......if anyone could help, this would be greatly appreciated , i also wanted to ask, would this solve the problem if i buy a new wire harness? Thanks: What kind of car is it? That's important, especially if it's a foreign make because those wires are so weird colored. Typically, yellow or ornage is power, red is memory, and the purple, gray, white, green wires are for the speakers .Black or brown wires are ground. Any blue wires you might come across are mainly just auxiliary signal wires that go to an aftermarket amp and subwoofer setup. Unless you have something like that, those wires can be taped off and forgotten about. Also, when wiring an aftermarket radio to your car, you will need to purchase an adapter harness that plugs into the stock wiring of the car and the wires connect to the radio wire harness correspondingly. I suggest soldering all the necessary wires and sealing them with shrink tube. It's the most solid, most sure way of a good connection without the worry of shorts and disconnections.

Q: Stereo wire digram: usually the yellow or orange wire is the memory !

Q: Just got a 540 wat sound system but the speaker wires are only 5 feet, so I want to add about another 10 or 15 feet.: Any half decent system the speaker wires should not be hard wired so just replace them. To splice the wires , twist the corresponding wire together, solder and then insulate with good electrical tape or heat shrink. Still better to replace all the speaker wire. For a 540 watt system use 14 or 12 gauge wire and proper ends ( pin , banana or lug) which ever your amp and speakers require, not just twisted wire. For this gauge of wire too much of a chance of a short, if not now , in the future.

Q: i have until November 24 to choose between a wire or plastic retainer for when i get my braces off.In your answer please say why you would choose a wire or plastic retainer.: PERMANENT (WIRE) OR REMOVABLE (PLASTIC)? ADVANTAGES TO WIRE: CAN'T EVER BE LOST/BROKEN ADVANTAGES TO PLASTIC: CAN BE EASILY REMOVED FOR FLOSSING ALL SAID, I'D CHOOSE WIRE - WORRY FREE MAINTENANCE AND IT'S INVISIBLE TO OTHERS

Q: Whenever I'm making jewelry, I typically wind up using crimp beads (with toggle closures, in most cases). Whenever I cut off the beading wire at the end, after enclosing the crimp bead around it, there's always this itsy bitsy part of the wire that irritates me to no end when I wear the jewelry. It seems that I can only cut the wire so much before I wind up snipping at the crimp bead. How can I remedy the irritation fact of the left-over wire?Maybe put glue on the wire piece and let it dry? Idk. Grr.: Here is the way to get rid of the scratchy wire: Take the wire on through the crimp bead and thread it down into the beads, and then crimp the wire. If you have a little wire sticking out there on down between the beads, just bend back the beads, and clip it with your jewelry wire cutters that have a side edge. Be sure and cut your wire with a couple inches to spare so you have enough wire to attach the clasp and thread the wire down. I was having trouble with the crimp bead scratching, no matter how I crimped it. I found out that they sell a crimp cover. It looks like an open clam shell, and you just slip it over the crimp bead, and close it with pliers. Beware, there is something called a clam shell, but it has a eye on it, it is for non-metal stringing materials. Another thing I found was a little tiny horseshoe called a guide. It goes above the crimp bead, and holds the clasp. It protects the wire from the wear and tear of the clasp. And it is so easy to pull the wire through it once it is on, you can adjust the length of the wire over and over. I was literally stuffing the wire down into the beads with a pliers. No more! Just pull on the end, and down the wire goes. No more ugly lengths of wire between the beads and the crimp bead. I found both these items in gold and silver colors, at Michaels, and Craft etc on line, and on other online sites. So, save the glue for working with elastic cord and gluing a bead over the knot to hide it.

Q: we need to know if we don't connect the red wire and just cap it off.: the four wires are for the fan and the light on the fan do you have two switches for the fan itself one for light one for the fan blades? The red is the same as black its just a control so hoook it where it goes if your new fan has a light or just cap it.

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