• Horizontal Axially Split Casing Double Suction Pump SBS Series System 1
  • Horizontal Axially Split Casing Double Suction Pump SBS Series System 2
  • Horizontal Axially Split Casing Double Suction Pump SBS Series System 3
Horizontal Axially Split Casing Double Suction Pump SBS Series

Horizontal Axially Split Casing Double Suction Pump SBS Series

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
200 set/month

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Advantage of SBS Horizontal Axially Split Casing Double Suction Pump
Easy mantainance
Higher efficiency&saving energy
Low noise
Non-leakage
Stabel runing and longer operation life
Exellent Performance
Compact Structure
Both horizontal and vertical installation
Easy installation the pipeline, suction and discharge in one line


Applications of SBS Horizontal Axially Split Casing Double Suction Pump
Type SBS Horizontal Axially Split Casing Double Suction Pump is wide apply in water works, irrigation, drainage pump station, power plant, municipal water supply system, firefighting, ship build. Also can be apply in oil process industry, drainage in civil building, HVAC, metallurgy, chemical, pharmacy, power plantetc for supply water or liquid property similar to water both in physics and chemical.


General description of SBS Horizontal Axially Split Casing Double Suction Pump
State Patents (Patent Number: ZL01 2 39077.1) the advantage of vertical& horizontal installation construction to fill domestic blank. To match different installation requirement. Strengthen casing design, high efficiency and save energy, compact design to ensure stable and reliable operation.


Model Explanation of SBS Horizontal Axially Split Casing Double Suction Pump
SBS 125 500F/412
SBS SBS Horizontal Axially Split Casing Double Suction Pump
125 - Discharge Diameter (mm)
500 Impeller Nominal Diameter (mm)
F - Impeller hydraulic Code
412- Impeller Diameter Code

Technical data of SBS Horizontal Axially Split Casing Double Suction Pump
Diameter of Discharge Flange: DN80 upto DN900
Capacity: Q: 83 - 11600m3/h
Head: H: 8 - 180m
Max Working Pressure: Cast iron 1.6MPa, Ductile Iron and Cast Steel 2.5MPa.
Max Operating Temperature: 120 degree
Rotation Direction: From the driven end, the pump rotating direction is CW, also CCW rotation direction is available if needed.

 

FAQ of SBS Horizontal Axially Split Casing Double Suction Pump

1. How can I get trained on CNBM products?

Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

2. Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

3. Do you have self-priming pumps?

Yes, our product portfolio also includes two ranges of self-priming pumps: self-priming electric pumps and self-priming side channel pumps.

4. Is it really necessary to fit a bleed valve for the boxes?

It is always best to have a bleed valve as the gas produced by the fermenting sewage is potentially hazardous.

Q:Does anyone know where to find small A/C powered submersible pumps, that operate at 20-25 psi? I can only find D/C pumps for ship use.I need one for running humidifiers and misters for large terrariums
From your question description, I'd use a condensate pump. They are about 30 bucks wholesale, so figure 50 retail. Look at one. I bet it's what you need. They are used on HVAC units. They have good head pressure for 3/4 lines. Even bigger. Your question has a lot of open spots in it. So, I'm answering the best I can. Hope this helps.
Q:My mechanic said I have a very small coolant leak and that in the future I might need to replace it.He said I should keep an eye on my coolant level.Anyone like to comment on how how a quot;small leakmight develop into a quot;major leakthat needs to be urgently addressed?He also said that to replace my water pump, he would charge $400. Is this expensive?(I have a 1996 VW Jetta)
The water pump leaks to warn you that it is about to go bad, meaning that you will overheat. Keeping an eye on the coolant is a good temporary course of action but this needs to be fixed before you ruin the engine. I believe your water pump is driven by the timing belt and that is a complex job. $400 is about right, and have him change the timing belt and thermostat also.
Q:I Have a 1982 Suzuki DT8 Outboard motor, i rebuilt the water pup, new impeller, wear plate, all that. This is the first time iv run it in a barrel, it wont pump water now. But here is the thing, when i take the inspection cover off(the little round cover that lets you acces the shift linkage), and i run the motor, it will pump water. i noticed that wile i have that cover off all the exhaust comes out that hole and not out the bottom, is the exhaust getting sucked in the pump and stopping it from circulating water?
Sorry, I thought I was answering this question before......is there 2 questions. Ok, the water is exhausted out the fin just above and behind the prop. The exhaust and water are both in the leg area where the shift rod is, so when you take the access plate off, you'll get some water and exhaust. You can't see the water coming out the exhaust port with the motor in a barrel. It's below the water line. And no the exhaust isn't being sucked back in the water pump, at least not enough to matter. There is a flush attachment that will feed water from a hose into the water pump. With the engine on a rack, or the boat out of the water, you can see where the exhaust and water come out. Running in a barrel isn't the best way to see anything. If you take the prop off it's easy to over rev. the motor. My advise is to put the motor on the boat in the water and start it. Check the engine block every couple min. for overheating. A little water dribbled on the head will sizzle, if it's getting to hot...if so shut it down, and recheck the water pump job. There is a tube that sticks in to the water pump housing. make sure it's in position.
Q:My husband has a 78 t-bird and it has steam comming out of it. He replaced the water-pump 2 to 2 1/2 yrs ago. The warranty was only for 1 year should it need to be replaced this soon?
It's possible. It depends on how many miles you've put on the car since then. The Water pumps on the older cars are not designed to go for more than 30-40K miles. Also if the car has been sitting the seals might have dried up a bit allowing for the steaming effect.
Q:I have a 2000 chevy impala with 85K on it. I have heard/a weird rattle noise from under the hood for some time now. I once asked about it on here and got suggestions regarding front end problems. I had that checked out and the front end is good. I still have the rattle noise along with a high pitched, but not very loud, squeeling noise when I accelerate. I am leaking coolant and it seems to be coming from near one of the belts. Is this a bad water pump? If so how expensive of a fix is it and how involved of a repair is it?
It sounds like a water pump or maybe a loose connection. It is probably time for a water pump if it hasn't been replaced yet. Parts will run under $60 and it probably involves an hour of labor. The Impala is a big car, it shouldn't be hard to get to and remove. Taking it to a shop will run under $100-$150 for everything.
Q:i learned from wikipedia that the water pumps back to reactor where it is heated again and the cycle begins again. but then i saw this diagram
Its clear enough. The water is heated and changed to steam in steam generators. Then the steam is used to turn the turbines to form energy. The steam is then condensed using cold water. The condensed steam or water is then 'pumped back to the steam generator' to create steam and the cycle continues. Need any more help ? feel free to mail me.
Q:i own a 02 gti 337 i bought back in 04 the water is leaking bad and im pretty sure the water pump has gone bad on it i had it replaced awhile back but the check engine came on it isnt this time so i think its just a leak from the seal my question is where is the water pump located is it on the timing belt or is it on a seperate pulley i dont wanna mess with the timing belt and i dont have the money to get this replaced so any help would be great thanks
The timing belt drives the Water Pump in a VW- ??????????????????? I don't think so. That said, it is under the timing belt and you must remove it to access the pump, heck you have to strip the entire front of the engine to get that bad boy out. I would order the Housing with the pump already installed and a new housing O-Ring and get new bolts. The reason is that the actual pump bolts tend to snap on removal and are next to impossible to drill out of the housing. My guess is a lousy install if it is leaking or substandard parts. ASE Cert Auto Tech, since 1978, 2003 GLI
Q:okay i just put a new camshaft in my truck and before my water pump seemed to work but it leaked a little bit but my truck never got hot well i drove it a little bit after puting in the new camshaft and the top radiator hose and heater hose was warm but the bottom radiator hose was cold so i think my water pump went out but not to sure thanks to any answers
I would check the thermostat. But you don't check it like the first answer indicates. Pull the thermostat out. Look at it if it is open it is bad. If it is closed put it in a pot of boiling water. If it does not move it is bad. This may seam like allot to go through but if it is not the thermostat your only out the cost of a new gasket. And you know for sure. If there is nothing wrong with the thermostat , than you aren't getting circulation. A few causes would be: Cooling system clogged water pump bad internal leak or external leak. If you have a leak the system can't build pressure.It will take a long time to warm up and or it will make you think it is over heating but it will only be a leak. It will also run hot. NEVER OPEN A RADIATOR CAP WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT. YOU WILL BE GOING TO THE HOSPITAL TO HAVE YOUR BURNS TREATED!!!
Q:looking for the comparison and then finaly the conclusion about the water pumps instaaled in the IC engines. Where we should stick to the tradional mechanical driven water pumps or electrical water pumps? which one is better!! any information/ response is appreciated
It is not always an either or as to choice of prime mover. I have seen small town water well pumps where availability was critical. They had the pump fitted with an electric motor for normal operation and a gas engine with a clutch to use if the motor failed.
Q:My water pump broke on my volkswagen golf tdi so I took it to a garage. He charged me ?250 for a new pump and fitting. When I came to collect it he showed me the broken water pump, when I asked if I could keep the broken pump that was taken out of my car he said that there would be quite a quot;heftysurcharge for me to take it with me because they have to send them back to Volkswagen. I thought it was a bit strange. Is that normal?
they shouldnt charge u since it technically trash but ive heard car manafactures buy back parts to refurbish them and resale them maybe he just wanted the money from not being able to do that

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