High Carbon Steel Wire for Flexible Duct,Mattress Spring,Brushes And Ropes Production

High Carbon Steel Wire for Flexible Duct,Mattress Spring,Brushes And Ropes Production System 1

High Carbon Steel Wire for Flexible Duct,Mattress Spring,Brushes And Ropes Production System 2

High Carbon Steel Wire for Flexible Duct,Mattress Spring,Brushes And Ropes Production

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Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 m.t.

Supply Capability:: 1 m.t./month

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Quick Details

Steel Grade:	Q235 Q195 45# 50# 77B 82B	Standard:	AISI,ASTM,BS,DIN,GB,JIS	Wire Gauge:	0.2mm--13mm
Place of Origin:	Tianjin China (Mainland)	Type:	Galvanized	Application:	Construction package
Alloy Or Not:	Non-alloy	Special Use:	Free Cutting Steel	Model Number:	Q235
Brand Name:	SJT	Certification:	BV ISO SGS	Tensile strength:	Above 1300Mpa
Price term:	FOB CFR CIF

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:	Standard export packing or according to the requirements.
Delivery Detail:	Within 20 days after receiving the deposit or the copy of L/C

Specifications

High Carbon Steel Wire for Flexible Duct,Mattress Spring,Brushes And Ropes Production
1.Material:Q195,Q235etc ;
2.High quality

1.specification

Material	45#, 50#, 65#, 70#, ,77B, 82B,
Diameter	0.2mm-13mm
Standard	DIN 17223, GB4357-2009, DIN EN 10270
Weight	According to the customers' requirements
Uses	To produce springs, steel wire ropes, brush and other uses
Packing	Coils Packing, spools packing, or according to the customers' requirements

Tensile strength of steel wire
Wire Diameter(mm)	Tensile Strength(Mpa)		Wire Diameter(mm)	Tensile Strength(Mpa)
Wire Diameter(mm)	Grade B	Grade C	Wire Diameter(mm)	Grade B	Grade C
0.40	1910-2300	2250-2650	1.40	1620-1910	1860-2210
0.45	1860-2260	2200-2600	1.60	1570-1860	1810-2160
0.50	1860-2260	2200-2600	1.80	1520-1810	1760-2110
0.55	1810-2210	2200-2550	2.00	1470-1760	1710-2010
0.60	1760-2160	2110-2500	2.20	1420-1710	1660-1960
0.65	1760-2160	2110-2500	2.80	1370-1670	1620-1910
0.70	1710-2110	2060-2450	3.00	1370-1670	1570-1860
0.80	1710-2060	2010-2400	3.20	1320-1620	1570-1810
0.90	1710-2060	2010-2350	4.00	1320-1620	1520-1760
1.00	1660-2010	1960-2300
1.20	1620-1960	1910-2250

Q: i have a 1989 Nissan 240sx and im trying to install an aftermarket Pioneer radio (DEH-P20), my car only has 2 speaker which are in the front right and left side doors, i've gotten many wiring diagrams to help me install it and im pretty sure i have connected the wires correctly. the only problem is that after i got done connecting it, the radio wont power on.. if theres a defective power wire, what can i do to fix it? and also, where EXACTLY do i connect the Ground wire? oh and why does the car wires have multiple same colors for example, theres like 3 light blue wires non striped from the car, etc.?thank you: 240sx Antenna

Q: I just learned how to do 3-way wiring, so that I can turn a light off from 2 different switches. My question is, how do I add another light to that mix, so that both lights come on/go off at the same time when I turn the switches on and off? (It's for a closet that has 2 lights in it that I want to come on/go off at the same time).: Very basically, you must have two wires going from light to light. A black wire and a white wire.( A bare copper wire should be included with the pair. It is a ground wire and grounds both light boxes together.) Back to the black and white wires. The black wire should be connected to the black switch leg wire at the first light box as well as to the first light fixture. The white wire is the neutral and should be connected to the white wire of both light fixtures. That's called a parallel connection. Just a note: There are several ways to wire three way switches, so my answer presumes there are two wires going from one of the switches directly to the light fixture. (A white wire and a black wire).

Q: I bought a wiring harness for my 2001 Ford Focus with a non-blaupunkt factory cassette player. The wiring harness doesn't match up exactly. A reviewer online said his didn't match up either, but still worked. The factory wiring has 7 slots and the one I received has 8. What do you think?Factory wiring on the left, the harness I received on the right:Constant Voltage - Constant VoltageGround - NothingIgnition Voltage - Ignition VoltageConstant Voltage - Illumination/DimmerGround, switched - NothingGround - GroundNot Used - Power AntennaNo Slot Here - Remote Turn onIt's mainly the Constant Voltage - Dimmer connection that worries me.And I know I can just hack up the wiring and skip the harness all together, but I'm trying to keep it simple and neat for the next guy/gal (which may be me for all I know).What do you think?Thanks in advance.: 2001 Ford Focus Car Stereo Wiring Diagram Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Green/Black Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Black/Pink Car Radio Ground Wire: Black/Green Car Radio Illumination Wire: Orange/Black Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Orange/Green Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue/White Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Tan/Green Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Green/Orange Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Gray/Blue Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Yellow Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Black/Violet Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Orange/Violet

Q: I hooked up my Klipsch floor speakers with the old-cheapy wire and then bought, I think it was monster cable, and bi wired it. Big sound improvement. But I've heard pros and cons on monster cable. I have three zones to wire in my house. If I bi wire the other two zones what's the best wire to get? You can spend a small fortune on wire. If I bi wire, zone 2 would be 30 feet x 4 and zone 3 50 feet x 4. I read that if one of the wires is silver it's better as silver's the best conductor. This I knew already. But, when I bought the wire that I did, it didn't state anywhere on the label that it contained silver and I think that would be a drawing point. In fact, I didn't see any wire at that store that said it was part silver and it wasn't Walmart but a major electronics store. I did see some that had silver colored strains but so is steel and aluminum. I also read on another forum that CAT 5 wire works well for bi wiring? Thoughts? Opinion?: They colour the wire by plating it. The silver is one conductor colour and the other wire is copper colour. Separate strands. This is so that you can keep the polarity straight when you are hooking up your system. You will also notice a raised ridge on the insulation of on conductor in two conductor wiring. Again it is a mark to let you tell the + from the - wires. Silver wire would be a good conductor, but much more expensive than copper and about equal in current flow. It would also corrode more and make for connection problems.

Q: So I know that the neutral wire is the 'return wire'. But why does my textbook say that it has the potential to have the same amount of electricity as the live wire (if the wiring is faulty)? But essentially, if the wiring is not faulty it is technically safe to touch it, it has 0 volts.Could someone explain this to me?: The electricity supply mains has three wires. They are called Live, Neutral and Earth The Live wire is connected directly to the generators of the electricity supply company. NEVER touch this wire, it carries 230 Volts and can kill you!! The Neutral wire returns the electricity to the generator after it has passed through the appliance, to complete the circuit. The Neutral wire is at approximately zero volts but you must NEVER touch this wire either!! If the wiring is faulty it may be carrying the same electricity as the Live wire. The Earth wire usually carries no electricity, it is there as a safety device. If something in the appliance goes wrong, or it is wired incorrectly, then the Earth wire may be carrying the same electricity as the Live wire. To be completely safe, NEVER touch this wire either!!

Q: In the picture there is a blue wire that is loose, also i just had the starter and wiring changed a month a go. Thanks.: on the big wire connector on the starter.look at it close and you will see the other part. strip the wire and but a new connector on it and put it back on the big terminal on the starter your problem of it not starting will be gone

Q: whats a good brand for 0 gauge wire to get? im looking for a good brand that has 100% OFC wire, i would get knukonceptz, but their wires are copper coated aluminum which isnt as good.: www.okorder

Q: Hey I have a standard Epiphone Les Paul, and I just bought some brand new Burstbucker pickups online. The one's I bought haven't arrived yet but in the picture, it looks like there is only 1 wire coming out of each pickup. When I take my wire cover off, i can see 1 wire comes out, but it's really 2 wires insulated to look like 1. What can I do so that I can put these expensive pickups in my guitar??: The two wires inside the larger one coming out of your current pickup represent hot and sheild. The hot wire is the signal and the sheild is a negative or ground wire that is connected to a piece of foil that is wrapped around the inside of the wire. This eliminates most of the hum that may be generated over the wire and is called sheilding. The Burstbucker has a hot and a sheild also, however it is made to look like a vintage pickup and the single wire in the middle is hot and the metal braid around the outside is the sheild. You should connect the wire to the same tang on the volume pot that the old pickup was attached to. The braid should be attached to the back of the pickup.

Q: We are replacing an older style submersible 3 wire well pump with a newer style 3 wire plus ground. I do not know where to ground the green wire? Is it necessary to extend the wire from the pump all the way to the top and ground it there or can i just ground it to the pump itself? Any ideas? First time home owner... trying to save money and not call an electrician (Im an avionics technician so I have some what of an idea what im doing.) Thanks: It shouldn't be grounded to back to the pump, it should be brought out and grounded either with the house or a separate grounding rod.

Q: During a lab experiment, a straight piece of copper wire is connected across the terminals of an AC generator and the current through the wire was measured. If the wire is removed and a part of it is tightly wound into a loop of many coils and the wire is then reconnected to the generator, will the measured current through the wire be greater, lesser, or the same as it was before the wire was coiled? Explain your answer.: Assuming the generator output voltage (RMS) remains constant the current will be less through the coil. By wrapping the wire into a coil it's resistance doesn't change but it's self inductance increases. AC in a wire produces an alternating (changing) magnetic field that is concentrated into a smaller space as a coil - so increasing it's strength and ability to link with the wire that produced it. When this changing magnetic field links (passes through) it's 'own' coils a self-induced 'back' EMF(voltage) is generated in the wire that opposes the 'forward' current from the generator (Lenz's law). If the geverator provides a pd = Vg and the back EMF = Vb, then the current in the coil is effectively being driven by a reduced pd = (Vg - Vb) .

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