• Glazed Porcelain Tile Nebulas Series R61102 System 1
  • Glazed Porcelain Tile Nebulas Series R61102 System 2
Glazed Porcelain Tile Nebulas Series R61102

Glazed Porcelain Tile Nebulas Series R61102

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
Qingdao
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1267.2
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

Add to My Favorites

Follow us:


OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

Product Brief Introduction

 

Glazed Porcelain Tile Nebulas Series R61102 is one of the most popular series of Glazed Porcelain Tile, which is one most popular serie of Glazed Porcelain Tile in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas. This series we call it CEMENT tiles which are quite popular recently.

 

Product Features

 

  Glazed Porcelain Tiale

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution as well as packing

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Glazed Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 1-3%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

 

Glazed Porcelain Tile Nebulas Series R61102

Glazed Porcelain Tile Nebulas Series R61102

 

Feature of Product 

 

1.Material: Porcelain tile

2.High chemical stability, high temperature resistant

3. Dust-proof ,resistance of fading and discoloration

4.Customized specifications are available


FAQ

 

1.    For Glazed Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.



Q: We‘re putting in new porcelain tile floors in the kitchen and bathroom. Should the tile go under the refrigerator? Should tiles go in before or after the new vanities in the bathroom? Any other general tips for a first-time tiler?
Well, please take my advice as I used to work at a popular Australian tile franchise. Number one - make sure the porcelain you are laying is pre-sealed, as porcelain is a natural stone and is 'porous', so harsh staining can will occur if they are not sealed. If they are just 'Glazed Porcelain' tiles, they don't need to be 'sealed' as they are on a ceramic biscuit and just have a glazed protective coating, which are quite 'hardwearing'. In which they are 'ceramic'. Number two - YES!! you must fully take out all fixtures to lay in the bathroom and kitchen, tiles will almost usually be there many years more than a vanity or a fridge. If you replace your kitchen cabinetry, well all floor space should be tiled. Many people run into problems of the 'previous owner' not doing the job properly, and down the track they wan't the same tile.....well the life of a tile is around 4 years then they become extinct., even if you can get the same tile, it will not be of the same batch/shade. Trying to fix up half-hearted jobs isn't as easy as some people think!!! So please tile ALL floor area and order enough so you have a couple of spare boxes left over, for future repairs. Because you will never get that same tile batch/shade ever again!! You'll also make it easier for the next person who lives there. Also, if you find out that if it is true polished porcelain and there not pre-sealed, buy a 'reputable' tile sealer and seal them before laying. As when you grout the tile (if there not sealed) you will create a grout haze around all your joints and will be a nightmare to remove and your lovely porcelain won't look so 'lovely'!! HAVE FUN......
Q: I am going to move into a home that has ugly green and yellowish tile all over the kitchen!! The walls and sink are green, the counters are a wood laminate, the floor is an old beige vinyl, and the cabinets are a dark color and are old and dated. What can i do to make this kitchen much nicer on a really tight budget?! Help!!
really tight budget. HUM close your eyes while in your kitchen if your cabinets are stained then you could lighten them they do sell stuff to do this but it is time consuming.if paint paint over them paint the walls a complementary color to the tile then save up your money
Q: and 12 red tiles and 9 white tiles in pattern 3, how many white and red tiles will there be in pattern 6 and pattern 10?Thanks!
Simple Red White 8 3 8 3 10 6 12 9 14 12 16 15 18 18 Pattern 6 20 21 22 24 24 27 26 30 Pattern10
Q: How to divide the tiles?
The state of the ceramic tile by the tile level is divided into A, B, C and so on. 1, A level. Class A use of the scope of unlimited, can be used in various places of home decoration. So the environmental performance of indoor tiles must meet Class A standards. The standard for the use of tiles for radioactive use is GB6566-2001. Class A decoration materials in the natural radionuclide radium radium-266, thorium-232, potassium-40 radioactive specific activity at the same time to meet the IRa ≤ 1.0 and Ir ≤ 1.3 requirements for the A class of decoration materials. 2, B grade. Class B decoration materials do not meet the requirements of Class A decoration materials but at the same time to meet the requirements of IRa ≤ 1.3 and Ir ≤ 1.9 for the B class decoration materials. Class B decoration materials can not be used for the interior of Class I civil construction, but can be used for the outer surface of Class I civil construction and the interior and exterior of all other buildings. 3, C level. Class C decoration materials do not meet the A, B class decoration materials requirements but meet the Ir ≤ 2.8 requirements for the C class decoration materials. Class C decoration materials can only be used for exterior finishes and outdoor use. Ir> 2.8 granite can only be used for monsters, seawalls, piers and other human rarely involved. According to the national standard level, tiles can be divided into two levels: 1, A grade goods A grade is the best grade, A grade is divided into AAA level, AA level and A level, AAA level is the best level. 2, B grade goods Class B products are slightly flawed products. Whether it is tiles according to the radioactive or standard provisions of the tile, we can find different tiles or have their own different nature.
Q: I have asbestos tiles in my basement (of a home I recently purchased). I sent them off to a lab for testing. The lab results came back 4% asbestos. I definitely want to remove the tiles. The majority of the tiles are in good shape. Some of the corners on a few of them are cracking. Right now I am considering the DIY vs. hiring the pros for removalI have been given conflicting advise thus far. Some say do it yourself, there is a very low percentage of asbestos in your tiles -- 4%. Others say Don‘t risk it, pay for the peace of mind. Here are my questions: Is 4% a low percentage for asbestos tiles? Is this low enough to be trivial or of lessor concern when taking on DIY removal? The pros quoted me $1300 for removal and an additional $275 for an air quality test/certification. Is this a fair price for about 500 square feet of tiles? Is air quality testing really necessary given the low percentage of asbestos in my tiles? Or, are they just making money off the fear and hysteria around asbestos?
As okorder /, which means its probably much safer and easier to have a licensed contractor take care of it for you. Long term breathing problems are not worth saving a few hundred dollars, and seeing some of the health issues my coworkers deal with on a daily bases has reinforced this idea to me quite heavily. Don't risk it.
Q: My husband and I just purchased our first house and we are pretty much tapped out for now. We dont have alot of money to remodel but enough to make some temporary improvements until next spring. All of our families are coming for the holidays and I want to spruce up our house. My biggest problem both of our bathrooms floors they are bad looking. I want to put peel and stick tile down but not sure how to measure for it. I want to do this today while my hubby is at work so I can surprise him. Im working on the master bath first its not that big, its only 5 feet by 5 inches long and 5 feet by 3 inches wide. How much peel and stick would I need? I have already cleaned the floors very well, what other tools do i need to get?
Most tile packs give an area coverage guide ,this site will give you a visual instruction of how to lay etc hope it helps,also times the length by the width to get the area 28'6 You will only need a stanley knife and a straight edge to cut self adhesive tiles
Q: in my bathroom what do i need thats easy an inexpensive? Can i do it myself.? trying to do it for my mother this weekend while she is away. Have tile thats old and seperating can i just pull it up clean the floor and lay the tile?
it isn't puzzling as long as you precise practice for the pastime. even if it really is a unmarried room verify even if it really is sq. and utilizing a chalk line mark a line you'll start up with. Use the most uncovered part of the room to get completely promptly line of tiles. once you start up proper something is in simple terms repetition. yet another part of challenge is what are you putting the tile over. Is is a concrete slab? if so in simple terms verify it really is does no longer have any parts that are higher. even if it really is timber sub-floor surely use backing like ask your self board or something like that. relying on the length of your tiles you want to verify on a spacer length. Your shop may help you with that. yet another situation is your connection of tiles to the wall. Do you've a baseboard? If accessible get rid of the baseboard and reapply it once you're executed. it is going to seem more advantageous powerful and also you've gotten more straightforward time laying the tile. evaluate getting a DVD on laying tile, i'm particular you shop can promote you one for very few money. strong success!
Q: I want to remove my carpet in the bedroom. I know about pulling it up and all that but what I don‘t know is what the next step is after it‘s totally up. I want to put down tile I‘m not sure if I want to put down ceramic or just the plain old sticky tile. my question is can i put tile down directly on the floor boards. I don‘t think that there is hardwood underneath i just see like plywood or whatever that board is called. Is there anything specific that needs to be done to the floor before tiling?
if you put down ceramic use the cementboard first if you put the peel and stick, i always use wallpaper primer first let it dry and then laymy lines and then put the peel and stick down the wall paper primer keeps the tiles from moving after time walking on them
Q: 16 by 16 tiles
Tile labor varies a bit from area to area, but you can figure in the $7 a s/f range for basic labor , thin set, grout and 1/2 cement board , which is generally need when installing over the common wood sub floors. Tile isn t figured in this price since a plain , average or discontinued tile can go from $1 a s/f to a very nice tile in that size at 4$ a s/f Extras such as rip out/ disposal and any floor prep isn t included either. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar.. GL
Q: how to install the tin molding around the edge of the tiles
Usually this is tacked into place with a few small nails. In the past i have experimented with using a contact adhesive to install the tin tiles and the molding strip, but this can be a bad option depending on the embossed pattern in your tiles or molding strip. The best and most secure option is to line the ceilding with ply (9mm thick or more - screwed into your ceiling joists so is secure) then to nail (small tacks) the tiles and the strips into place. You can also position the tiles and strips with contact adhesive to get them all in the right spot then go through and nail off when you are happy with the positioning.

Send your message to us

This is not what you are looking for? Post Buying Request

Similar products

Hot products


Hot Searches