Gear Operated Lug Type Butterfly Valve

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Loading Port:: China Main Port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

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Supply Capability:: -

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Quick Details

Standard or Nonstandard: Standard
Structure: Butterfly
Pressure: Low Pressure
Power: Manual
Material: CI,DI,WCB,SS,etc.
Temperature of Media: Medium Temperature
Media: Water, Gas, Oil etc.
Port Size: DN50~1200mm
Place of Origin: Tianjin, China (Mainland)
Model Number: D7LT1X-10/16

Packaging Details:	Standard export packaging: plywooden case, Or as per clients' requirements.
Delivery Detail:	Within 15-30 days after receipt of L/C or deposit by T/T

Specifications

1.2"~48".
2.PN:1.0/1.6MPa.
3.different standards.
4.center line butterfly valve.
5.rubber/PTFE seat, soft sealed.

Features:

1.Small in size and light in weight. Easy installation and maintenance. It can be mounted wherever needed.

2.Simple and compact construction, quick 90 degree on-off operation.

3.Flow curve tending to straight line. Excellent regulation performance.

4.Long service life. Standing the test of thousands opening/closing operation.

5.Wide selection of materials, applicable for various media.

Standard:

Design standard	Face to face	End flange	Test & inspection
MSS SP-67 API609 EN593	API609 ISO5752 series 20 BS5155	DIN PN10/16/25 ANSI B 16.1 BS4504 ISO PN10/16 JIS B 2212/2213 BS 10 table D BS 10 table E	API 598

Design standard

Face to face

End flange

Test & inspection

MSS SP-67

API609

EN593

API609

ISO5752 series 20

BS5155

DIN PN10/16/25

ANSI B 16.1

BS4504

ISO PN10/16

JIS B 2212/2213

BS 10 table D

BS 10 table E

API 598

Performance:

PN(MPa)	DN(mm)	Testing Pressure (MPa)	Applicable Temp. °C	Applicable Medium
Shell	Sealing
1.0/1.6	DN50 ~ DN1000	1.5	1.1	-45~ 150	Fresh water, Sewage, Sea water, Air, Vapor, Food, Medicine, Oils, Acids, Alkalis, etc.

PN(MPa)

DN(mm)

Testing Pressure

(MPa)

Applicable Temp. °C

Applicable Medium

Shell

Sealing

1.0/1.6

DN50 ~ DN1000

1.5

1.1

-45~ 150

Fresh water, Sewage, Sea water, Air, Vapor, Food, Medicine, Oils, Acids,

Alkalis, etc.

Material List:

Part Name	Material
Body	CI/DI/WCB/SS
Disc	DI/ALB/WCB/MONEL/CF8/CF8M
Stem	SS416/SS304/SS316/WCB
Seat	EPDM/BUNA/NBR/NR/PTFE/HYPALON/VITON/NEOPRENE

Q: What would this envole, can i size up/down the port on the existing valve with just changing the mechanical componts.: On okorder /

Q: What are two problems assosciated with faulty heart valves, what are there causes, treatments, cures, symptoms, aftercare, etc?Thanks in advance!: This Patient Guide is written for the loved ones of heart patients who are dealing with the short-term stress that comes with a test, procedure or recent diagnosis of heart disease. It explains why support is so important to a loved one with heart disease. It also offers practical strategies on how to support a loved one while also taking care of yourself.

Q: Im living in an a house previously own but abandonded , and im trying to get water, the thing is the pipe where the shut off valve is is dettached , and i dont know where to reattach it nor do i see the missing pipes to reassemble what does the main shut off valve attach to in my house?: You have the main water line outside that feeds everyone. Look for a man hole cover and remove it. You should see the turn off valve there. There may be a pipe unit that the county removed so the water could not be turned back on. Call the country and ask for the water to be turned back on. If you are talking about the line after it goes onto your property then it's just a large pipe that comes into your home somewhere. They normally put a on/off valve at that point that allows you to shut the water off inside the home. If the pipe inside the house is detached from that valve then someone most likely cut it and took out a section. You would have to turn the water out at the manhole so you can open that valve and drain the water out of it. Then using a torch/solder/pipe sleeves, new pipe etc solder the replacement piece in place. Remember water in a pipe will not allow the pipe to reach soldering temp without creating steam, which can burn you. Hope that helps....

Q: I started out playing trombone in middle school, then switched to euphonium as my main instrument. (I still play trombone for marching and jazz band, but I'm a little better at euphonium.) That being said, should I get rotary valve trombone or the one with axial flow? I only have a student trombone right now... And I have a professional Besson euphonium.: First, you should know that a valve trombone is different from what you're talking about. Valve trombones have three or four valves, much like a baritone or euphonium. What you're thinking of is called a symphonic tenor trombone, tenor-bass trombone (less common), or a tenor trombone with an f-attachment. The difference between the axial flow and traditional rotary valve on the trombone is one of feel. The axial valve is designed to provide less of a change in resistance between playing the horn with and and without the valve pressed down. Some people prefer that resistance. Either way, the quality of the entire horn is going to be a better indicator than the valve section by itself. Your best bet is to go to a local music store and ask to try out all the professional models - pick which one feels and sounds the best to your style of playing.

Q: Ok i dont know much about cars so if anybody could help out with this id appreciate it. Do i need to take my car in to get the PCV valve replaced or can i buy it and have it done in my driveway?Thanks....: Well sorry but it is a little hard to tell you this if you do not supply us answering your question what kind of car you have. The make, the model and engine size would help us alot Please supply more information and I am shure eather myself or someone here can help you

Q: My pressure reducing valve (or restricting valve) was looked at by three master plumbers and they all said I need a new one. My water pressure has been low for weeks. It measures about 100 psi at the outside hose bibs, but it is very low inside and suddenly reduces after you turn on the facets inside. The shower is ok. My automatic sprinkler system is not able to work now due to low pressure. A relative of mine thinks we can just add a handle (as one is missing) on the valve and adjust the pressure ourselves. The repair of the valve is around $500-600! I am told in Texas that we have to have a permit and inspection to repair this valve. Also I was told by the last plumber that came out, that I have to install a expansion tank on my new hot water heater according to code. I'm not sure if that is a city code or federal. Please respond as to information you may have on this problem. The expansion tank is required I'm told when you have a pressure reducing valve for safety, is this true?: The cost you quoted seems a bit high to me. Mine didn't cost anywhere near that amount in East Texas. A pressure reducing valve acts like a check valve when there is no flow. That is it closes as the pressure rises when you are not using any water. In this condition, the hot water heater can raise the pressure even higher since there is no place for the expanding water to go. That is the reason for the expansion tank. Without the expansion tank the pressure relief valve on the hot water heater can relieve unnecessarily or weep a bit.

Q: i have a 1987 nissan 300zx and i can get the car to start unless its 40 degrees and when it does it idles hard. is this idle control valve or a fast idle valve??: Could be.. Also could be dirty. Easy fix, remove the valve and spray carb cleaner in the hole.. Using a small brush, clean the bore that the valve rides up and down in. Also, inspect the valve while it is off the manifold. Harder fix: After cleaning the bore, replace valve with brand new one. Your car will have to relearn the idle after starting with the new valve or after you put the old one back in.. Start car, but do not put it in drive or give it any throttle until the computer has finished making adjustments. - Dave. (Long Island, NY)

Q: i have a yamaha trumpet. i got it brand new and it is 3 years old. I recently did drop it and i have a tiny dent on the last turn to the bell. after that they started sticking . There are no dents on the valves or casing surrounding them. i brought them to Quinlan and fabish and showed them the sticking they replaced the valves spring padding and the such. They also did an ultrasound cleaning i think it is called . they are still sticking. Please any think that you can suggest i showed my band teacher who suggested going to Quinlan and fabish. Then my trumpet teacher who said i need to oil more after the cleaning please help: Check that you are not putting sideways pressure on your valves when you press them downwards. Even on a good horn this sideways pressure can cause friction between the piston and the valve casing. Avoid this by arching your fingers a little, depressing with your finger's tips, and avoid the pinkie finger ring entirely. Tying your pinkie up in that only restricts your 3rd. finger's freedom of straight downward movement. Over- lubricating the valves can be as bad as too little oil. Do the whole warm bath treatment that you would normally do to clean it, add 3 drops to each valve, work horn for a few minutes, wipe valves with very old (washed heaps of times) t-shirt: then finally 2 drops again. If this doesn't work, get a trumpet specialist teacher to take it home for this treatment.(You might not be bathing it right). Failing that, check my web site's repair section. Good Luck!

Q: I am trying to bench bleed my master cylinder on a 94 altima...the directions state to attach the bleeding hoses to the outlet valves?? I haver four valves that merely state front or rear??: The outlet valves are the bleeder valves behind the wheels the ones you open up when your bleeding the system.But to bleed the master cylinder mount it to the car and then fill master cylinder and then screw in the bleeder hoses at the locations where the metal lines hook up to the master cylinder and bend the hoses around back around to the top of the master cylinder so when your bleeding the master cylinder the brake fluid goes back into the top of it to get the air out of it.Then hook up your brake lines back to the master cylinder and bleed out the rest of the system to the wheels.Usually when doing this you start with the right rear bleeder behind that wheel but have someone there to pump on the pedal even when your bleeding the master cylinder first and then you do the rest of the system.On some cars bleeding the rest of the system starts with sometimes different wheels like the front and or the back.But on a usual bases you generally start with the right rear then the left rear and then the right front then the left front.But by bleeding the system check with a shop to find out what the bleeding steps are to bleeding the wheels outs at the valves each car is almost different to do.But the master cylinder is the easiest to start with when it comes to bleeding it but watch out when going to hook up the brake lines back to it because some brake lines are hard to hook up and what I mean by this the fiitting might get cross threaded when putting them