• Flexible duct high carbon steel wire of CNBM in China System 1
  • Flexible duct high carbon steel wire of CNBM in China System 2
  • Flexible duct high carbon steel wire of CNBM in China System 3
  • Flexible duct high carbon steel wire of CNBM in China System 4
Flexible duct high carbon steel wire of CNBM in China

Flexible duct high carbon steel wire of CNBM in China

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 m.t.
Supply Capability:
1 m.t./month

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Quick Details

Steel Grade:

high carbon steel

Standard:

AISI,ASTM,BS,DIN,GB,JIS

Wire Gauge:

1.4-3.8mm,9-17

Place of Origin:

Hebei China (Mainland)

Type:

Galvanized

Application:

Construction

Alloy Or Not:

Non-alloy

Special Use:

Cold Heading Steel

Brand Name:

cnbm

Tensile Strength:

1370Mpa

Weight of coating:

60-200g/m2

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:In rolls, plastic inner and hessian bag/pp woven bag outer,big coil. also can be according to your requirement.
Delivery Detail:30 days when we received the down payment

Specifications

Good quality with competitive price.

 

Product Description

 

Features: 
1) Material: high carbon steel, 45#, 55#, 65#
2) Finish: hot dipped galvanized, electro galvanized

Packing: 
25kg to 200kg/coil

 

1. Galvanized Steel wire: It can be divided into two series: 

   Electro galvanized wire

   Hot dipped galvanized wire

 

2. Galvanized Steel wire: Zinc coated:

   Electro galvanized wire(60g/m2)

   Hot dipped galvanized wire(100g/m2-200g/m2)

 

3. Galvanized Steel wire: 

   Common weight per coil: 25kgs-200kgs big coil (other weights are available as customers' request)

 

4. Galvanized Steel wire:

   Tensile Strength: 1370Mpa

 

5. Galvanized Steel wire: 

   Good corrosion resistance, firm zinc coating, etc

   

6. Galvanized Steel wire: 

   Common package:

   Inner plastic film, then weave nylon bag cloth.

 

7. Galvanized Steel wire:

   Quality certification: ISO9001:2000

 

8. Galvanized Steel wire:

   Application: Using in making welded mesh, gabion mesh, barbed wire, binding wire, wire ropes, etc.

 

       Guage

      SWG(mm)

     BWG(mm)

8

 4.55

4.19

9

 3.66

3.76

 10

 3.25

3.40

 11

 2.95

3.05

 12

 2.64

2.77

 13

 2.34

2.41

 14

 2.03

2.11

 15

 1.83

1.83

 16

 1.63

1.65

 17

 1.42

1.47

 18

 1.22

1.25

 19

 1.02

1.07

 20

 0.91

0.84

 21

Q: has black wires.
Two black wires in the box would be a hot from the supply and a switched hot to the load. If the timer has only two wires then it should be pretty easy to just connect them. If they are marked line and load then you would have to hook the wire for line to the wire in the box that is always hot from the supply and the other to the wire marked load. If you are still unsure then it really is not a job for you alone, enlist the help of someone with a bit more experience or even an electrician.
Q: Having some trouble wiring fixture it seems to just stay on with the switch doing nothing.. here's the deal I have three different wires coming from ceiling power in, power out, and I believe switch.. there was a priovious light there so I know its correct just don't what wires go with what all help will be appreciated thanks
black is always hot - white is nuetral and another is the switch - and of course green is ground - you have the hot correct - but you arent hooked to the switch leg is all
Q: We added an AC to a preexisting sx 80 furnace and we are having a hard time wiring the new thermostat to the furnace, and the condensor to the furnace. Anyone know how to get a wiring diagram?? thanks
furnace will have 5 low voltage terminals,,R,,Y,,G,,W,,C...you have to connect R,,Y,,G,,and W at the furnace to R,Y,G,and W at the thermostat...so you have to use at least 4-conducter tstat wire between the tstat and furnace...typically you would use the red wire to connect the R terminals at tstat and furnace,,green wire for G terminals,,yellow wire for Y terminals and white wire for W terminals.. if your tstat wire doesnt have those exact colors it doesnt matter,,just be sure that the wires connected to R,Y,G,and W at the tstat are connected to R,Y,G,and W at the furnace respectively...if your tstat is programmable and requires a common wire to operate,,then you will need a 5 conducter tstat wire between tstat and furnace...the fifth wire, whatever its color,will need to connect the C terminal at the furnace to the common wire terminal at the tstat,,usually the common terminal at tstat is labeled C but not always.....as far as the outdoor unit goes..you will need at least a 2 conducter tstat wire to connect the Y and C terminals at the furnace to Y and C wires or terminals in the outside unit,,usually 24 volt polarity doesnt matter at the outdoor unit,,in other words as long as the 2 wires outside that are connected to the Y and C terminals in the furnace are connected to the [low voltage] 2 wires / terminals it will work,,unless one of the wires / terminals outside is clearly labeled as common.in that case make sure whatever tstat wire is connected to that wire / terminal is connected to C back at the furnace.....so at the furnace there will be one wire [red] connected to R....2 wires connected to Y. [ one going to Y at tstat,the other going to outdoor unit]...one wire [green] connected to G. and one wire [white] connected to W.....and one wire [common,usually blue] connected to C unless tstat requires a common wire,,in that case there will be 2 wires connected to C at the furnace.......hope i made it clear enough.......dan
Q: I need to use quot;insulated copper wireor quot;enamel covered copper wirefor a project...I used normal copper wire and obviously it failed. Can this be like normal copper wire with plastic/rubber coating around it, similar to electrical wire? Or is it something special?
Enamel covered usually means magnet wire, the enamel insulation is super thin, all but invisible, this is used for making very tight windings where the packing of the windings produces strong magnetic fields, or strong emf response to changes in magnetic field, and the voltage difference between adjacent windings is low enough to allow this type of wire. There are sources for magnet wire on the internet, and Radio Shack sells Three Packs of 3 commonly used gauges of magnet wire.
Q: Wire runs from breakers to a wall outlet along the garage wall
Ok so the first two answers are almost correct. If the breaker is 20amp it's 12 gauge wire, if it's 15 amps it will be 14 gauge wire. The outlet is in a garage it must be a GFCI receptacle. That's a national electrical code requirement. If the wiring is to be exposed (ie not inside of a wall) then it must be in conduit, cheapest and easiest to install is pvc, you can run romex or NMB through conduit. If the wall is to be sheetrock when finished then you can run just romex through the studs. It is recommended that the GFCI receptacle be mounted in an extra deep box but is not required, makes it easier to get it in there with the wires. You can put up to 8 receptacles or devices, like light fixtures on one 20 amp circuit. More and you will be over loading the circuit. The romex you run should be for 20 amp 12-2 with ground. All circuits and devices must be grounded to be in compliance.
Q: I am in the process of installing a new thermostat, but I ran into the problem: new thermostat has 4 ports W, Y, R and G. But the old thermostat has 5 wires: W, Y, G and B. I am not sure where B wire (black color) should go. Do I need to look for another thermostat that has a port for B wire?
The black wire should be for ground. You and try to connect it without the black first to see if everything works ok, if it does tape off the black and tape it to the other wires. If not look at your UPM diagram and see which port is for ground and it should hook up with that wire. But I would double check with the heat pump wiring diagram to see what that black goes to and verify that wire with a multimeter.
Q: Is it possible for a wire to arc with a nail? The u-nail that hangs the wire to a wooden support beam looks like it was hammered in too far and may have cut through the insulation around the wire. Is this a fire hazard or can I leave it as is?
Electricity moves very similar to water it will always find the path of least resistance. So yes if you cut into the wire you will energize the u-nail. Your best plan is to remove the nail carefully while there is no power in the circuit examine the wire and if there is a cut through the insulation replace the wire. I say this because from your question it sounds like you are in the electrical rough in stage. You can install a J Box there but by code it must be accessible so that would mean there would be constant reminder of the problem in the wall.
Q: In constructing a large mobile, an artist hangs an aluminium sphere of mass 6kg from a vertical steel wire 0.50m long. On the bottom of the sphere he attaches a similar steel wire, from which hae hangs a brass cube of mass 10kg. How would i calculate the tension in each wire?
The length of the wire is inconsequential unless you're calculating stretch. The tensile force in the upper wire is simply: Fu = 6 + 10 = 16 kg The tensile force in the lower wire is simply: Fl = 10 kg If you want tensile stress, then you need the wire's cross-sectional area.
Q: electroluminescent wire picture?
what do you want to know about electroluminescent wire
Q: can you use your existing phone line jacks and wire, then convert the jacks to lan to network computers or printers?
There's really a big difference between a LAN and WAN connection. WAN connection can be easily interrupted by some interference compared to LAN connection. I would recommend that you instead check the speed that you are getting from your ISP instead of depending on the speed that you are getting out form you adapter connection statuses. If you really want to get a better WAN speed connection you might as well check your modem or router wireless setting cause ideally adapters are only there to receive a signal and if there is a problem with you getting a good speed still after making sure that your PC is working OK you might as well use another modem or router.

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