• DRAWER RACK WITH BEST PRICE AND BEST QUALITY System 1
  • DRAWER RACK WITH BEST PRICE AND BEST QUALITY System 2
  • DRAWER RACK WITH BEST PRICE AND BEST QUALITY System 3
DRAWER RACK WITH BEST PRICE AND BEST QUALITY

DRAWER RACK WITH BEST PRICE AND BEST QUALITY

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
34 set
Supply Capability:
400 set/month

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Rack:

1. Item

Storage Racking System

2. Regular Size/Unit

(L)2300*(W)1000*(H)5025mm, 4   levels, Loading Weight:2000kg/level

3. Adjustable

75mm

4. Standard Color

blue, orange, green, red,   grey

5. MOQ

10 units

6. Standard Packings

metal strip, film, paper   board and master carton

7. Certification

ISO9001:2008

8. Customized size accepted, Special color available

Storage pallet rack specification:

Configurations:

1) Each system is mainly made up of upright   frames and beams

2) Each frame consists of 2   uprights(posts), 2 footplates and bracings

3) Each storage level consists of 2   socketed beams

4) Each beam level usually supports 2 or 3   pallets

5) Supports and non-standard pallet sizes

6) Different beam sizes are available for   different load requirements

7) Beam levels are adjustable in   50.8mm/75mm/76.2mm pitch interval

8) All compnents are epoxy power coated   except the galvanized footplates

9) Accessories include shim, upright   protector, row spacer, pallet support, half-pallet etc.

 Model

light duty rack

 medium duty rack

 heavy duty rack

 heavy duty rack

heavy duty rack 

secification

 1500*450*1800mm

 1800*600*2000mm

2000*800*3000mm

 2000*800*3000mm

 2000*800*3000mm

size of upright

 38*38mm

 55*47mm

 80*60mm

 90*70mm

 100*70mm

size of beam

 54*23mm

 50*30mm or 60*40mm

 80*50mm

 100*50mm

 120*50mm

beam style

 angle iron

 step beam

 box beam

 box beam

 box beam

thickness of upright

 1.25mm or 2.0mm

 1.5mm, 1.8mm or 2.0mm

 1.8mm

 2.0mm

 2.5mm

thickness of beam

 1.25mm or 2.0mm

 1.5mm

 1.5mm

 1.5mm

 2.0mm

capacity per layer

 150kg

 500kg

 1500kg

 2500kg

 4500kg

layer

    5

   4

     4

    4

     4

 

 1.Pallets can be located, accessed and moved individually.

 2.Rapid handling almost all types of palletized goods. 

DRAWER RACK WITH BEST PRICE AND BEST QUALITY

 3. Fully utilize vertical space. 

 4. The loading capacity per level of such rack may reach 5000kg. Strength and rigidity prevents compression damage to goods.

 5. Bottom level of pallets can be stored on the floor, lowering structure costs. 

Please inform us of the following information for quick quotation:

1.

drawing(if   available)

2.

size   of your warehouse

3.

size   of rack(height*width*depth)

4.

how   many levels of the rack

5.

loading   capacity of each level

6.

(RAL)color   you want

  1. Q: What is the raw material of your products?

    A: The raw material of steel code is Q235b. Other type of steel is also available per clients’ requirements.

  1. Q: What is delivery times?

  A: Normally the order can finish within 15 days. Time varies upon the order quantity and racking types.

  1. Q: How could you guarantee the products quality?

   A: Our professional engineer will check what size should be used to guarantee your load weight request.

 Before shipping, our quality control also would carefully examine whether the quality is approved.

  1. Q: May I know the status of my order? 

 A: Yes .We will send you information and photos at different production stage of your order. You will get the latest information in time. 

 

 

Q: I currently have a tricked out Gary Fisher Piranha now the only thing I haven't upgraded is the cranks and bottom bracket. Can I upgrade the bottom bracket first because its cheaper? I have a Shimano ES25 Octalink bottom bracket and Shimano FC-M442 44/32/22 Octalink crank set. It seems that I would need to upgrade both because of theOctaling, but do I? It seems as though bottom brackets and their compatibility with cranks is the one thing I don't really know about bikes. literally. Thanks
Just save your money do both at the same time. Upgrading only the BB or cranks will probably only give a marginal improvement. Besides, there are some really good integrated BBs to look at. Anyway, it doesn't sound like you're having any problems so there shouldn't be a rush to upgrade. Why upgrade just to upgrade?
Q: I lost my motherboard 'brackets', or those plastic things that hold the HS/F in place on my motherboard, and I have my computer on it's side with the HS/F resting on it since my WC is dead ATM.I was wondering what those were called, how much they cost, and if newegg sells them. links are appreicated.BTW, if it matters I have a Asus M2n-SLi Deluxe board. I tried to use my old ECS A770m-a brackets with this board and they didnt hold properlyThanks!!
You know, those brackets are usually specified for the HS/F you using. Those parts are going to be very hard to find. Here's what you need to do. Call the manufacturer of the cooler and ask THEM where you can get the replacement bracket, they might even send them to you for free (plus SH). They will be sure to know. Besides, we don't even know what fan youre using, and you need that info.
Q: I just got braces on 5 days ago and I have been worrying about what to eat. All I eat is soup (my teeth don't really hurt anymore) and mash potatoes. Today I ate 3 raspberries and I find it hard to eat without feeling like I am going to break a bracket. Tonight I am having some Tofu please give me some tips on where to chew in my mouth without really touching the bracket. I have to have my braces on for 2 years. Help so scared of halting the process!!! lt;3 lt;3 lt;3
As long as your ortho did a good job of putting the brackets on, they shouldn't break. You can eat just about anything (you should have gotten a list of things to avoid though). Things that are on the thougher side you might want to chew more carefully if you're worried but having things break shouldn't be a problem
Q: i need a new bottom bracket but don't know what size to buy, its a muddyfox euphoria. do i have to take it off for measurement, just bought the tool from OKorder and all ready have a pedal arm extractor. your help is appreciated, thanks
Once okorder
Q: I bought an old frame from craigslist. I assumed that it was Italian from the info he gave me, the fact it is incredibly lightweight and the really fancy lugs. It was sandblasted and all of the decals and badges were removed. The only identifying marks on the frame were the serial number on the bottom bracket: x33478, and the on remaining bottom bracket cup which had, T.D.C. Made in England, stamped to the side of it.Jumping ahead of schedule, I ordered an Italian bottom bracket (the previous owner measured the BB to 70 mm). When it got here I tried to put it in. Evidently it is not 70 mm (bummer). So I was playing around with it and found out that both bottom bracket cups are left hand thread. I repeat, BOTH BOTTOM BRACKET CUPS ARE LEFT HAND THREAD (not the BB I bought, but the threading on the frame).Sheldon Brown has offered no help on the subject, neither has bike forums, so I am turning to you, Yahoo Answers. Can you help me? What kind of bottom bracket do I need?
This is a long question but bear with me. You are not going to like this. Not at all. There are just 2 possibilities and either one demands that the frame be scrapped. 1) You may have a frame with a Whitworth threaded bottom bracket. The thing here is that they are nowhere near the diameter of any modern unit so the (slim) possibility of being able to retap the bottom bracket is gone. For some reason that I can't get my head around there were a couple of factories that preferred both cups left hand, others that did both cups right hand, and some that did one right/one left BUT it was all Whitworth; 2) There were some bikes made slightly behind the Iron Curtain, in Poland, the Czech Republic, East Germany, and West Germany that had a 2 piece cottered crank. The drive side cup was put in the frame with the bearing surfaces facing out, the crank put through, and the remaining cup installed. These were LH on both sides as well and I have no idea what the threads were- I just know they don't accept anything else. As time went on and the cotterless crank became more the standard, enterprising individuals found other bikes, pulled the old crank and drive side cup out, then refitted with a cup from the donor bike and used a new spindle. I am not aware of those bikes EVER having a factory installed cotterless crank. Like much of this early technology it was quickly overtaken as the Japanese Revolution took over and became more of a standard product. I can only suggest one thing- go to a well equipped shop and ask them to try and chase the threads. Some shops will refuse due to the high cost of the tool, and I would personally refuse because it was already attempted in my shop and failed along with the destruction of a $150 tap.
Q: I have a broken STI for triple chain ring but still would work for double chain ring. I would like to ask about the measurement of my present bottom bracket spindle used in conjunction with my triple chain ring. I'll be replacing it with a couble chain ring that fortunately I have already. I just need to buy the correct spindle length. I went to LBS this morning but they're clueless about bottom bracket specification.More info:My bike is a road bike and I'm presently using a sealed cartridge bottom bracket with tapered spindle.
If you pull out the current bottom bracket, you might be able to find the axle length listed on the bottom bracket itself. See the attached link and see if you can find your triple crankset listed in there with the axle length. Make sure you get the right type, octalink vs. square taper vs. external bearings. Also, you will most likely run into some issues since your left shifter is made for triple cranks instead of a double crankset. The cable pull may not match up correctly. Your front dérailleur will most definitely require some adjustment. Why not just replace the broken chainring? They're relatively cheap. Don't want the embarrassment of being the guy with triple crankset? The triple-double conversion is rarely worth the cash and effort.
Q: I am an aspiring music composer and editor, but I have a question that no one has been able to answer thus far.When creating a score, by hand or otherwise, for a piece of music for quartet with a solo cello part, what would be the proper use of flat brackets? Would the brackets cover only the quartet parts or would it include the solo cello part as well?Thanks in advance,JD
if its a solo cello, then it'd be the un-bracketed part, and i believe every other grouping of instruments (1 or more) would be bracketed appropriately.
Q: Hi. I got my brackets in for my braces yesterday and I know it will just take time for it to stop hurting my cheeks but now it hurts when I bit down on my food. Like on my teeth it hurts not on my cheeks. Is this normal?
from Wikipedia: Brackets are tall punctuation marks used in matched pairs within text, to set apart or interject other text. Any dentist who put those in your mouth is an idiot. Time to switch.
Q: I was let go by my former company in 2011. I now receive unemployment benefits. Now that its 2012 and the unemployment benefits are running out along with my reserves and I need a way to continue paying for life because there are no jobs for me now. I need to take out my 401k early. I'm only going to make $5000 of taxable income in 2012 with unemployment benefits before it ends. So when it comes time to withdraw my 401k this means my tax bracket will be considered 10% or 15% right? OR does the IRS f you over and use the previous years tax bracket?Skip the lecture about how early withdrawal is bad. Its pretentious for those of use who are about to lose our home and literally be on the street because ******* want to move our jobs to India and China.
If your other income is only $5000, then the first $4500 from the 401K gets a zero tax rate, the next $8500 a 10% rate, then 15%. This assumes you are single.
Q: I am a single mom and I received a decent refund last year but I made more this year. Last I checked I was told I had still not gone over a certain tax bracket which would lower my refund if I make over a certain amount this year. Last year I made about 12000.00. This year so far it is 19000.00 about. What is the amount or tax bracket amount that would hurt me and lower my refund this year. Or should I say next month when I file? Thanks So Much ~
You won't start to incur any tax liability until your income exceeds $15,650. You get a standard deduction of $8,350 filing as Head of Household plus 2 personal exemptions worth $3,650 each. At that point the next $11,950 is taxed at 10% and the next $33,550 is taxed at 15%. With $19k of income, you are in the 10% bracket and at $19k your tax would be $335. However since you have a child the dynamic changes significantly. Assuming that your income is earned income from a job and your child will be under age 17 as of Dec 31, 2009, the Child Tax Credit wipes out your tax completely. You'd also pick up a refund of $665 from the Additional Child Tax Credit and about $2,627 from the Earned Income Credit plus another $400 from the Making Work Pay credit. A quick check shows that you'd be getting a refund of at least $3,692, plus whatever was withheld from your pay for Federal income taxes. Therefore your effective Federal income tax rate is a negative 19.4%. In your case your tax bracket is really irrelevant.

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