• Cummins Engine Diesel Generator Defeng Alternator Smartgen or DSE System Low-noise 100kw System 1
  • Cummins Engine Diesel Generator Defeng Alternator Smartgen or DSE System Low-noise 100kw System 2
  • Cummins Engine Diesel Generator Defeng Alternator Smartgen or DSE System Low-noise 100kw System 3
  • Cummins Engine Diesel Generator Defeng Alternator Smartgen or DSE System Low-noise 100kw System 4
Cummins Engine Diesel Generator Defeng Alternator Smartgen or DSE System Low-noise 100kw

Cummins Engine Diesel Generator Defeng Alternator Smartgen or DSE System Low-noise 100kw

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
1000 unit/month

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Cummins Engine Diesel Generator Defeng Alternator Smartgen or DSE System Low-noise 100kw

Briefe performance of silent diesel generator set

1)High quality, steady and reliable performance
2)Blow 71dB at 7 meter 

3) Perfect Maneuverability

4) Wide Application 



Engine: 

Cummins Engine Diesel Generator Defeng Alternator Smartgen or DSE System Low-noise 100kw

Manufacturer

CUMMINS

Model

6BTAA5.9-G2

Cylinder and cycle type

6 cylinders in line, 4 strokes

Aspiration and cooling

Turbocharged and after cooled

Displacement

5.9 L

Bore×Stroke

102×120 mm

Compression ratio

17.5:1

Rated speed

1500 rpm

Governor

Electronic

Oil capacity

16.4 L

Prime power

120kW

Standby power

132kW

Fuel consumption

29.4L/H (100% Load)

22.4L/H (75% Load)

Coolant capacity

9.1 L

Start system

DC 24V



 Alternator Specifications 

Cummins Engine Diesel Generator Defeng Alternator Smartgen or DSE System Low-noise 100kw


Manufacturer

STAMFORD

Model

UCI274E

Type

Single bearing,4-poleAC   brushless and self-exciting

Frequency

50 Hz

Power Factor

cosΦ=0.8

Phase

3

Voltage

400/230 V

Capacity

100kW/125kVA

Insulation class

H

Protection class

IP23

Elevation

≤1000m



Control system:

Cummins Engine Diesel Generator Defeng Alternator Smartgen or DSE System Low-noise 100kw

Optional: DSE or Smartgen

Manufacturer: SNARTGEN

MODEL: HGM6120KC

HGM6120KC Control System is mainly used in generating supervising and control of land type diesel generator set and the switching between diesel generator set and city electricity supply. It is combined with digitalization, intelligence and network and capable of generator start and stop, generator data supervising and testing, protection alarm, city electricity supply quality supervising and starting generator automatically when  power failure happens or city electricity supply is beside the set point.



 Dimensions and weight 

Cummins Engine Diesel Generator Defeng Alternator Smartgen or DSE System Low-noise 100kw

L: 2100 mm

Cummins Engine Diesel Generator Defeng Alternator Smartgen or DSE System Low-noise 100kw

L: 3000 mm

W: 750 mm

W: 1300 mm

H: 1250 mm

H: 1250 mm

Dry Weight:

1560 kG

Dry Weight:

1760 kG


Q: The motor I'm talking about is the main large motor in the very bottom of the unit. The unit (which is in the basement) started making a loud humming/squeaky sound. I automatically knew it was probably bearings. I took off the lower panel after I shut it off and reached back there and turned the pulley and it is squeaky yet turns pretty easy. We sprayed some WD-40 on the center and turned it back on and there is no noise now.Is there a way to use a grease gun to grease the bearings normally? If so where would I look for it? Any other suggestions are very welcome!
LOL contactor?..women (shaking head). Sounds like this is your indoor blower motor. If its on the pulley you could grease in the center where it connects to the shaft. Other than that use wd40 like you did. If the bearings bad you're gonna have to get a new blower motor eventually. I say this because they don't sell the pulley/bearing seperate from the motor. Few hundred $ installed by ac tech. Only other thing it could be is where the motor mounts up. Could be vibrating. Wd40 would help or it may have vibrated loose over time needs to be tightened down. Sounds like the blower motor pulley from what you explained...
Q: Approximated dimensions are 7quot; dia, 14quot; length.
I assume you are looking for a replacement. This seems like a spindle motor for a NC machine, but my search didn't find one with all the characteristics mentioned. The clue is 8000 rpm. This is probably a 4 pole motor, so frequency is up to 266 Hz AC supply. It means it works with a variable speed drive, so may be married to that closely (I mean, I am not sure if you can substitute). It may even have speed sensing associated. It is this drive that produces the 460V and the appropriate frequency for the rpm which will be related to V/Hz. These motors are usually meant to be smooth running. Check the spec you gave carefully. It seems too small for 75kW and too fast for 75kW too. Still @ 8000rpm this may be possible. It may be that you can only buy a replacement from the manufacturer/supplier of the NC machine at great expense. Consider a motor rewind and new bearings, whatever (get it refurbished). This might not be so difficult or expensive, but once again, 75kW @ 8000 RPM? Maybe the re-winder needs to know what they are doing for that sort of balance. Some of these have exotic bearings too.
Q: there seems to be cold air trickling out of the vents. my return filters are good. how do i check the blower? where is it?
First make effective the air handler has finished voltage. once you replaced the filter out (you probably did replace the filter out, wonderful?) you're able to get the panel(s) back on proper to have interplay the fan interlock change to make certain that the interior fan to run. you're able to have a fan relay. interior fan run capacitor, or a fan motor challenge. in case you're reachable sufficient to have effectively challenge shot the exterior unit, the interior should not be a challenge for ya...
Q: I have an AC motor (bought from a friend in Mexico, hence the Spanish lingo on the attached images) that I need to be able to run at variable speeds. Is there any way to attach a sort of dimmer-switch style mechanism so that we can adjust the speed at which this motor runs during operation?All help is appreciated!
A dimmer-switch style controller will probably not work with a motor of this size and type. They will work to some extent with fan and centrifugal pump loads, but only with motors that are designed for that type of speed control. Dimmer-switch speed controllers work by reducing the voltage applied to the motor by weakening the motor so that the load slows it down similarly to overloading. As a result, the motor current increases. With a fan or pump load, less torque is required to operate at lower speeds, so that partly compensates for the overloading effect. Even so, the motor tends to generate more internal heat, and needs to be designed to tolerate it. The motor requires a capacitor. Since the connection is not on the nameplate, I assume that the capacitor in internal. It would be inside a housing like the connection box, but probably a separate box or bump on the side of the motor. If the capacitor is designed to be switched off when the motor gets up to speed, the motor can not be operated at reduced speed. If the capacitor is connected all the time, there are variable-frequency controllers that would work, but I think that only one or two manufactures make them for single-phase motors. With single-phase motors, they don't provide enough torque at reduced speeds for any load but a fan or centrifugal pump. PS1: A free online translator gave me “arranque por capacitor” translates to “Start by capacitor.” That pretty much says that this motor is not suitable for any operation below full speed.
Q: I'm working on a sculpture piece, I need a way to turn a large 40quot;, 100 pound wheel at about 1 revolution per hour.I'm wondering what kind of motor I could use for this?So far I've come up with either a windshield wiper motor, an auger motor, or a microwave's turntable motor. I would have to gear them down further than they already are to get my wheel spinning at 1 rph...But would these motors burn out after a few days time running non-stop? Is there a better alternative out there?I was also thinking some sort of time-based controlled motor, maybe Arduino based?
Take away the big AC motor out from any cloths dryer or washing machine . They are heavy duty motor and have a lot of torque to do your requirement. Or you could use the hot air blower motor if your house equips with this type heating system. This motor can be easier to take out and put it back.
Q: What are the reasons for initial inrush curent at start of an AC motor?
The coils of an electric motor have inductive reactance but very little resistance. The coils initially act similar to a short circuit when the switch is closed and the motor shaft is stationary. Once the motor begins to rotate, the motor develops back EMF (voltage in reverse polarity to source voltage) which counters the source voltage, reducing the effective voltage across the motor coils, and reduces current flow. Back EMF is highest in a motor that is at full operating speed and under no mechanical load. When the motor is under mechanical load, back EMF is reduced until the motor is under full load, increasing the current to full load rating.
Q: does a 3 phase ac electric motor used as a generator create 3 phase ac power?
No, only if you provide a source of 3 phase power to energize the field windings. Without that, you just have a few coils of wire spinning near other coils of wire. No magnetic fields, no power generated.
Q: The blower wheel went out because, somehow a tiny metal screwdriver got into it. Also the resistor is out and my AC isn't as powerful as it should be. Could that be the cause? PS sorry about the grammar I'm on my phone.
Sounds like all these things are unrelated to each other. Unless you damaged the evaporator (cold coil inside the car) while changing the blower you shouldn't have had any leaks. BUT if you put the wrong screw in the wrong location and forced it in then you might have punctured the evaporator. One has nothing to do with the other unless you damaged something (or that screwdriver managed to puncture the evaporator). The resistor pack is for controlling motor speed. If your blower isn't running on high, perhaps you miss wired something. But generally I'd not expect that to be the case. The other alternative is that the resistor pack (also not related to the blower failure or the leak) may need to be replaced. Maybe that screwdriver damaged THAT. In short, if the refrigerant leaked out - you have a leak. If the fan isn't running on high - you have a motor speed control issue. 'av'a g'day mate. )
Q: ok i have a 95 nissan pickup and my ac went out the other day i can still feel cold coming out the vent the blower motor ant comming on i straight wired it 2 the battery and it works could my resister be bad does the resister have any thing to do wit the ground on the blower motor
Keep in mind even with a bad resistor you should ALWAYS have HI mode......because HI bypasses the resistor and supplies battery voltage to the blower. Unplug resistor and check for power from the fan speed switch if you don't see any action you need a switch or have a bad fuse.
Q: My Samsung refrigerator has the twin cooling system. My repair guy tells me that it has independent evaporators and fans for fridge and freezer sections. The fridge recently stopped cooling down and his diagnosis was that the fan was dead. Having removed the fan how can I check if it is bad or not? Being just a simple winding I have checked the resistance across the two wires and read a value of 168 Ohms, and neither show any kind of short to the casing. Sadly I don't have a variable power supply to run it externally. The motor is a SPG IS-3208SNP6H. Thanks.
I'm not sure of the ohms but these units have a bad record of icing up on the fan. Try defrosting the entire unit manually by either unplugging it and leaving it open for 24 hours or carefully using a hair dryer on the components behind the walls like the tubing and fans. Be careful not to melt any plastic or wiring! If it runs for a day or two after doing this you have a defrost failure which can be defrost thermostat, heater or control board. The heater is easy enough to ohm out, usually either open (infinite) or very high (above 2000 ohms) or shorted ( less than 20 ohms). Most likely if it's light icing it's the defrost thermostat or control board failure. I'd hope the tech would have noticed this but try it yourself to rule it out. To check the fan, simply plug get to the harness it plugs into and check for ac voltage! Make sure to tape the door switches shut or if magnetic trick them into being closed by removing and holding them together so the fan would be running. If the voltage is present (it can vary depending what the frig is asking for) plug the fan in and see if it runs. If the no or low voltage, now you are probably looking at the power control board.

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