• Electrical wiring and cable,single core copper conductor System 1
  • Electrical wiring and cable,single core copper conductor System 2
Electrical wiring and cable,single core copper conductor

Electrical wiring and cable,single core copper conductor

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
500 m
Supply Capability:
50000 m/month

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Applicant

 

1.) Household,indoor/outdoor,buliding wiring and associated devices ,to supply the power         for lights fittings,switches,meters,plug point,air conditioners,refrigerators,water          

      pump,water heater,AC motor and etc.

2.) For decoration lights.
3.) Short span electricity transmission.
4.) For electrical appliance,electronic,instrument and telecom devices.

  

Specification

 

Description:
- Tinned or bare stranded 28-9AWG copper or tinned copper
- PVC insulated
- Temperature: 105 ° C; Voltage: 600V
- Use the standard thickness, easy stripping and cutting easy
- with anti-acid. oil resistance. moisture. mildew and other characteristics

1

Model

 AC10WE19

2

Standard

GB/T 5023   IEC 60227  ICE60228  AS/NZS 3191

3

Construction & Dimension

Item

Specification

Conductor

Size

3G 1.5mm²

Material

Annealed Bare Copper

Insulation

Material

PVC

Min. Average Thickness

0.7mm

Min. Thickness at any point

0.53mm

Diameter

3.1±0.10

Identification

Blue, Brown, Yellow/Green

Core Assembly

Core Twist

3--Core

Filler

NA

Assembly Pair

NA

Taping

Mylar Foil

NA

Shielded

A1 - Mylar Foil

NA

Drain

Material

NA

Construction

NA

Jacket

Material

PVC

Min Average Thickness

0.90mm

Min. Thickness at any point

0.67mm

Overall Diameter (Approx)

8.5±0.20

Color

Any Color

4

Electrical & Physical Properties

Item

Specification

Rating Voltage

300/500V

Conductor Resistance

13.3Ω/Km   20°c Max

In case of dispute, Conductor resistance shall be the referee method

Insulation Resistance

0.010MΩ/Km  70°c Min

Dielectric Strength

AC 2.0KV/5 min No Break

Insulation

Unaged

Tensile Strength

10N/mm²

Elongation

150% Min

Aged

Tensile Strength

Min 10N Unaged±20%(85±2°cx240hrs)

Elongation

Min 150% Unaged±20%(85±2°cx240hrs)

Loss of mass Test

2.0mg/cm² (max)

Jacket

Unaged

Tensile Strength

10N/mm²

Elongation

150% Min

Aged

Tensile Strength

Min 10N Unaged±20%(85±2°cx240hrs)

Elongation

Min 150% Unaged±20%(85±2°cx240hrs)

Loss of mass Test

2.0mg/cm² (max)

Deformation Test

150mm, 70±2°c x 1hr≤50%

Cold Bend Test

-15±2°c x 4hr No Crack

Heat Shock Test

150±2°c x 1hr No Crack

 

  

Electric Properties

Item

Specification

Specified voltage and temperature & standard

UL/CSA : 105℃, 600Vac, 750Vdc, ROHS / RECH

Spark Test

The insulation must be withstand 5KV high-tension current

Insulation Potengial Strength

2000V/Min(for water's environment

Minimum Insulation Resistance

20, DC500V  15MΩ-KM Above

 

 

Physical Properties

Based on standard of flammability material testing

According for UL Subj.758 spec/According for CSA spec

 Before of  

 aging test

Insulation tensile strength test  kgf/mm2

1500 psi above

Insulation elongation test rate %

100% above

 After of

 aging test

Insulation tensile remnant rate %

This amount must be above 70% after heat ageing (136℃,168hrs)

Insulation elogates remnant rate %

This amount must be above 65% after heat aging  (136℃,168hrs)

 Heating Distortion Test

The insulation face must be no cracked, high temperature at 120℃ for 1 hour

 Thermo Shock Test

The insulation face must be no cracked, high temperature at 120℃ for 1 hour and bent, to withstand 1,000V for 1 Min

 Cold Bending Test

The insulation face must be no cracked, cooled at -40℃ for 3 hour and bent to withstand 1000V for 1 Min

 Oil Resistance

Immersed in oil at 80℃ for 4 hrs and bent to withstand 1000V for 1

Electrical wiring and cable,single core copper conductor

Q: Electrical wire, optical wire, air, and space.Help!
Information can be transmitted via several methods: Electromagnetic Pulses. Electrical Waves. Radio Waves. Sound Waves. Light Waves. Now you figure out which goes with each one.
Q: All the DIY info shows how to change a light fixture. What do you do with the wiring if you want to remove a chandelier, but not replace it with another?I want to make sure the wires in the ceiling are not capable of starting a fire. This is in the first floor of a two-story.
With respect to the wiring instead of connecting wires to a new fixture they need to be capped with wire nuts instead. With respect to the empty area there are two approaches. If the box is neatly recessed in the ceiling then a larger decorative cover plate will do the job nicely. You do not want to use an electrical cover plate for the normal round box as it will leave unsealed edges around it. If the wires are long and the box is short you might adapt to a wiremold box that will include an adapting plate and the external round box that will project an inch down from the ceiling. Then you will need to add the decorative (wide) blank cover plate. Since you are asking this question there is also an obvious suggestion that you might have someone who is familiar with electrical wiring to do this as someone new to wiring might easily overlook something that a more experienced eye will catch.
Q: help! i have been searching but counldn't find the inventor HELP!
Thomas Edison
Q: I have two side-by-side outlets. One does not work at all. I've checked all the connections and cannot get it to work.I noticed that the adjacent box has a black and white wire connected while the error box only had a red and white wire going to the box. Is this right? When I test the wires going into the box, there is no voltage whatsoever.
The red is most likely serving as the 'hot' or black wire. If there is no voltage at the red wire, you need to trace the source and find out why.
Q: 1) I want to install a ceiling light fixture (chandelier style) but I don't have a ceiling outlet box. 2) I want to convert the chandelier to a lamp that gets plugged into a regular outlet, so I have a) the chandelier w/ it's own cord (meant to be attached to the ceiling box) and b) 20 ft of regular cord attached on one end to a quick clamp plug.3) On the 20ft regular cord, and I can tell on this cord which wire is hot b/c one side is smooth (hot) and the other side is ribbed (neutral). Unfortunately, the cord from the chandelier itself is SMOOTH on all sides and is not marked white/black, smooth/ribbed, hot/neutral or with any other indicator that would allow me to tell which side is which. Hence, I don't know which chandelier wire to attach to which cord wire.Please help!
There are lots of clues that only a pro will recognise, for example the type of cable, insulation and sheathing, make and style of fusebox and accessories fitted, and many other things. Some parts of your installation may be newer than others, and new accessories often hide ancient wiring!
Q: I am looking to do some electrical work and I was thinking of a way to make electrical wiring turn cold. I have a good imagination, so I am thinking I need to remove free negative electron ions from the conductive material. I dont know if this means it neads a load a ground or watever I mean I am guessing blind to electricity. My pops said dip it in liquid nitrogen but I detest this solution. Anyone have ideas? I really am at a loss concerning electrical circuitry, any ideas?
Go to electrical shop Buy length of cable Go home Put cable in to fridge. Job done.
Q: Electrical wiring is commonly composed of metal covered in plastic or rubber coating. Which of these materials is an insulator and which is a conductor?
The only thing I might add to Terrys answer is DO NOT plan on a career that involves electricity.
Q: I just bought a house, and the area where the dryer needs to go only has a two foot electrical wire coming out of the wall. It's an old house, and it's possible these people just hooked those wires directly to the dryer without using an outlet. Is that possible? Or do I need to install those wires into a three prong outlet for electrical supply to my dryer?Thanks!
It would depend on your areas electrical code if it was legal to do that or not. I cannot see why in a residential setting anyone would need to do that. If I were you I would call an electrician to check the wires and install a proper outlet.
Q: I earlier posted this question and was told not to cover wiring as the wires could overheat, etc. So I was careful to lay out the rolled insulation away from wires.In the recent issue of Popular Mechanics there is a short article on blown insulation. Doesn't that cover just about everything in the attic?Now I am not sure what to do.Can the wires be covered or not?
Generally it would be ok, it really depends on the size of the conductor in your wiring. if it is 1.0mm square there may be a problem with heat build up and dispersal 1.5mm square is generally used thees days for lighting circuits and it would be ok to cove Hope this helps Good luck
Q: I have a '49 ford truck, w/350 v8 Chevy engine. The fan is currently hot wired straight to the battery. How do I connect it to the ignition so the fan goes off when I shut off the engine?
take a piece of 16 guage covered wire and run it from the fan to a fuse, thats hot only when the switch is in the start and run position and take another wire and run it from the other wire from the fan to a good ground. you might have to use a test light to determine which wire is hot, or you could just use a toggle switch and run 1 wire from the battery to the toggle switch and the other wire from the fan to the toggle switch, and when you start your truck, just throw the switch and when you stop, throw the switch off.i did that alot, when the fan wouldnt come on.

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