• Electrical wiring and cable,single core copper conductor System 1
  • Electrical wiring and cable,single core copper conductor System 2
Electrical wiring and cable,single core copper conductor

Electrical wiring and cable,single core copper conductor

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
500 m
Supply Capability:
50000 m/month

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Applicant

 

1.) Household,indoor/outdoor,buliding wiring and associated devices ,to supply the power         for lights fittings,switches,meters,plug point,air conditioners,refrigerators,water          

      pump,water heater,AC motor and etc.

2.) For decoration lights.
3.) Short span electricity transmission.
4.) For electrical appliance,electronic,instrument and telecom devices.

  

Specification

 

Description:
- Tinned or bare stranded 28-9AWG copper or tinned copper
- PVC insulated
- Temperature: 105 ° C; Voltage: 600V
- Use the standard thickness, easy stripping and cutting easy
- with anti-acid. oil resistance. moisture. mildew and other characteristics

1

Model

 AC10WE19

2

Standard

GB/T 5023   IEC 60227  ICE60228  AS/NZS 3191

3

Construction & Dimension

Item

Specification

Conductor

Size

3G 1.5mm²

Material

Annealed Bare Copper

Insulation

Material

PVC

Min. Average Thickness

0.7mm

Min. Thickness at any point

0.53mm

Diameter

3.1±0.10

Identification

Blue, Brown, Yellow/Green

Core Assembly

Core Twist

3--Core

Filler

NA

Assembly Pair

NA

Taping

Mylar Foil

NA

Shielded

A1 - Mylar Foil

NA

Drain

Material

NA

Construction

NA

Jacket

Material

PVC

Min Average Thickness

0.90mm

Min. Thickness at any point

0.67mm

Overall Diameter (Approx)

8.5±0.20

Color

Any Color

4

Electrical & Physical Properties

Item

Specification

Rating Voltage

300/500V

Conductor Resistance

13.3Ω/Km   20°c Max

In case of dispute, Conductor resistance shall be the referee method

Insulation Resistance

0.010MΩ/Km  70°c Min

Dielectric Strength

AC 2.0KV/5 min No Break

Insulation

Unaged

Tensile Strength

10N/mm²

Elongation

150% Min

Aged

Tensile Strength

Min 10N Unaged±20%(85±2°cx240hrs)

Elongation

Min 150% Unaged±20%(85±2°cx240hrs)

Loss of mass Test

2.0mg/cm² (max)

Jacket

Unaged

Tensile Strength

10N/mm²

Elongation

150% Min

Aged

Tensile Strength

Min 10N Unaged±20%(85±2°cx240hrs)

Elongation

Min 150% Unaged±20%(85±2°cx240hrs)

Loss of mass Test

2.0mg/cm² (max)

Deformation Test

150mm, 70±2°c x 1hr≤50%

Cold Bend Test

-15±2°c x 4hr No Crack

Heat Shock Test

150±2°c x 1hr No Crack

 

  

Electric Properties

Item

Specification

Specified voltage and temperature & standard

UL/CSA : 105℃, 600Vac, 750Vdc, ROHS / RECH

Spark Test

The insulation must be withstand 5KV high-tension current

Insulation Potengial Strength

2000V/Min(for water's environment

Minimum Insulation Resistance

20, DC500V  15MΩ-KM Above

 

 

Physical Properties

Based on standard of flammability material testing

According for UL Subj.758 spec/According for CSA spec

 Before of  

 aging test

Insulation tensile strength test  kgf/mm2

1500 psi above

Insulation elongation test rate %

100% above

 After of

 aging test

Insulation tensile remnant rate %

This amount must be above 70% after heat ageing (136℃,168hrs)

Insulation elogates remnant rate %

This amount must be above 65% after heat aging  (136℃,168hrs)

 Heating Distortion Test

The insulation face must be no cracked, high temperature at 120℃ for 1 hour

 Thermo Shock Test

The insulation face must be no cracked, high temperature at 120℃ for 1 hour and bent, to withstand 1,000V for 1 Min

 Cold Bending Test

The insulation face must be no cracked, cooled at -40℃ for 3 hour and bent to withstand 1000V for 1 Min

 Oil Resistance

Immersed in oil at 80℃ for 4 hrs and bent to withstand 1000V for 1

Electrical wiring and cable,single core copper conductor

Q: i just want to ask a question.if you have to wire a house whether single phase or three phase wiring , then, would you choose a heavier wire for hot wire (live wire) or would you choose a heavier wire for the neutral ?3 - 29 or 7 - 44 . what size would you choose for neutral what for hot wire (live wire) ?thanks
Household wiring comes with the hot, neutral and ground wire all in the same bundle, so no choice like this is required. The hot and neutral would all carry the same current however, so if I had to choose, they would be the same size.
Q: I have changed lights in my own home many times. I bought a new light for my parents bathroom, but when I put it up I realized they had an electrical outlet on there too. My new light has a black and white wire. Coming from the house it has gray, green, 2 white, black and red. Can I cap off the ones I don't need? Which ones are which? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
It sounds like you disassembled the wires in the junction box and didn't diagram what went where. You now have a real problem in that you don't know, and without being there to analyze your electrical system, none of us here can tell you what went to what. Standard house wiring protocol says that black wires are the hot wire supplying electrical current to something. White wires are supposed to be used as the return/neutral, returning the current back to the circuit breaker or fuse box where they are attached to the ground buss. Normally, protocol says that a green wire [or a TOTALLY BARE wire] is used as a safety grounding conductor, in case the white neutral should get cut open, or disconnected. Other colored wires [the grey and red] are both used as hot wires in 220 volt circuits, and SUGGEST that 220 is SOMEHOW involved in that circuit. What you've got is a potentially deadly nightmare, AND YOU NEED a LICENSED, Professional ELECTRICIAN!!!!!! IF some of the wires were capped off and not connected to any others BEFORE YOU SCREWED the job up, THEN YES, those wires can again be capped off, BUT your question implies that they were NOT capped off before. So if that's the case, they should be connected to where they were before. Again, for safety, and to possibly prevent the house from catching on fire and possibly killing someone, YOU NEED A PROFESSIONAL to get the electrical system restored like it was before!!!!!
Q: For simplification, I am adding 3 20amp new outlets (OUTLET A, OUTLET B, OUTLET C)Anything below sound wrongAll Hot(Black wires) go on brass screws (Right Side of outlet)All Neutral(White wires) go on silver screws (Left Side of outlet)Romex Hot Neutral Path.Electric Panel to top screws on Outlet ABottom screws on Outlet A to top screws on Outlet BBottom screws on Outlet B to top screws on Outlet CBottom screws on Outlet C empty.Internal OutletsI am using blue pvc single gang boxes so for the ground add ground pigtails to the ground screw on the outlet and twist pigtail, incoming and outgling ground together with green twistcap.For Exterior Outlets I am using metal boxes. Should I pigtail the ground to the ground screw on the metal box or to the ground screw on the outlet?Any problems, suggestions, etc?thanks
Instead of daisy chaining the outlets the way you suggest, wire a pigtail for each of the conductors in the first 2 boxes. Connect the line in, the line out, and a 6 wire together with a wire nut. Then connect the loose end of that to the receptacle. In the third box, just connect your conductors to the receptacle. Your wiring is correct for which wires go on which screws. I would definitely connect a ground pigtail to the metal box. Hope this helps.
Q: i am starting to get where i need to be looking at colleges. i want to work in the field of electrical, wiring stuff and all that. i am confused as to what an electrical engineer actually does. i want to work with my hands and work wiring stuff. does an electrical engineer do that or do they check other peoples work and make sure things are right. i am confused. please help me.
No. Engineers are often mistaken for mechanics, technicians, electricians, and machinists. Engineers are problem solvers that use their field of knowledge to design, develop, and implement solutions to various issues within a process, product, or company. In many companies, especially those who have a union staff, engineers are not allowed to use machinery or do hands on work.
Q: How much current can the six square copper wire be able to withstand?
Yes, the composite material of the high-voltage cable clamp, cheaper than the price of aluminum
Q: Generally do not exceed 50 degrees, the higher the temperature the faster the faster What are the wires, such as 16 tubes?
Mobile power points are many, since our company developed to the present, the general mobile power is mainly 1A is 2.1A. Normally when we open a mobile power to the mobile phone when charging a good point of the mobile power will automatically detect the current when charging, if the specified detection time does not detect the charge current or less than the mobile power supply current, the The mobile power will automatically turn off, so that the charge does not enter the power. There is to determine whether the mobile power is a problem, the simplest is to charge the mobile power for half an hour of electricity, and then to the phone to determine whether the mobile power is good or bad. Also do not understand, you can message online.
Q: I am wanting to install a ceiling light in my laundry room, and a light switch. Will I have to cut out the entire ceiling and wall to do this? I thought about using fish tape, but I was curious if I would run into beams. Will I also have to run new wire all the way back to the electrical box and a new breaker?
First find a circuit without much load on it. This is where you will pick up the hot wire feed for the switch. An outlet or switch on an interior wall is best - this way you can probably fish the wire in the wall cavity. Now fish the wire up from your new switch the same way in the hollow wall. Use bx cable which has a metal flexible jacket on it. Run the cable along the top of the wall against the ceiling until you find the center of the room, then fish tape from the proposed light fixture location over to the small hole at the edge of ceiling where you wire along the wall will go up into the ceiling. Tie on cable and pull to the ceiling fixture location. Now simply add crown mold or other molding along the top of wall against the ceiling on the entire room to hide the cable. You need to use a 3+1/2 or larger crown molding to cover the wire.
Q: For example, i saw a simple electric generator constructed with magnets and fine wire which was spooled to react against the magnets. Is there an advantage to having a spool of fine wire rather than a solid block of copper?
A generator works by using moving magnets to create a changing magnetic field through a loop of wire. When a magnetic field changes through a loop of wire a current arises in the wire to produce an opposing magnetic field. That current is what we want to generate. If you had one solid piece of copper you would be generating the current from one loop. By having multiple wires you can multiply that current by the number of loops you have (say 50,000). More loops more current.
Q: Electrical three-pin plug three lines of color are what color
Is not installed a good card installed on the network card driver like to remember remember to add points
Q: I moved in a new house and they just cut off the electrical wire to the garage door opener. the old wire is 18 gauge/3 and i put a 16 gauge /3 on it. is it safe. works fine. will it pull more juice since it is 16 gauge or its max juice that runs through it is bigger.
When I run short sections to power openers or when changing garage wires I use 12 gauge THHN. Stranded is easier to work with but some local codes require solid wire. I have never seen 18 gauge in a house, but I guess times change. And yes, the electrical current travels near the surface of the wire. It is not required but I use a GFR to plug the opener into, especially if your garage door itself is steel.

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