• Copper Conductor and PVC Insulated Electrical house wiring cable System 1
  • Copper Conductor and PVC Insulated Electrical house wiring cable System 2
Copper Conductor and PVC Insulated Electrical house wiring cable

Copper Conductor and PVC Insulated Electrical house wiring cable

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China main port
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
500 m
Supply Capability:
50000 m/month

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Copper Conductor and PVC Insulated Electrical house wiring cable

 

Application
Fixed protected installation inside appliances and in lighting fittings.Suitable for installation in surface mounted or embedded conduits, only for signaling or control circuits.

 

Key Features
Bare copper conductor,PVC insulation
Temperature Rate: 70°C
Voltage Rate:450/750V
1 core,1.5-70mm²cross section
Packet:Roll,Carton box,Pallet etc.,Or special package according to customers needs

 

Technical Data

Copper Conductor and PVC Insulated Electrical house wiring cable

Copper Conductor and PVC Insulated Electrical house wiring cable

Q:I have an old house (built in 1962) and after testing all of my outlets, have confirmed that none of them are grounded. The house is made of brick, so it would be extremely expensive to run new circuits through the house. I really only need 1 or 2 outlets to be grounded so that I can protect my expensive equipment from damage. So what I wanted to know is if I could buy a spool of 10 gauge solid copper core insulated grounding wire, drill a hole through the brick behind the outlet, connect to the outlet and run the other end of the wire around the outside of the house to the main box. Would that be safe? Would it hold up to power spikes?
Yes you can do that but you don't have to go to the box if you have metal cold water pipe. If the pipe is plastic then yes but you cpuld drive a metal stake into the ground 6 feet and ground to it. you can get grounding stakes at a hardware store or electrical supply so find out which is cheaper wire or stake. on the wire it doesn't have to be solid just #10 and daisy chain it. go from the farthest box outside to the scond box then to the Elecrtical supply. I assume you have a slab floor if not go to the basement and across to the box or attic to the box. An alternate solution is to just change the sockets and don't ground them. it is not really necessary most equipment has planned for an ingrounded socket. you change the socket so it will plug in without cutting off the ground pin. For GFI it is necessary to ground it(kitchen and bathroom). different states have different codes.
Q:For example, i saw a simple electric generator constructed with magnets and fine wire which was spooled to react against the magnets. Is there an advantage to having a spool of fine wire rather than a solid block of copper?
because its easy to make a cord out of many small wires,instead of one big wire
Q:I only have 2 outlets in my room and need to add an additonal 2. I would like to try this on my own if possible. I have basic knowledge about electrical outlets.
Find the end receptacle. It should only have one black and one white wire connected to one set of the contact screws. Then go from there. Run the wires to the new receptacle and then run the next one. Go buy Black and Decker's book on home wiring. It has 100s of color pictures in it and it tells you how to wire up something like 35 different kinds of circuits. I used the book as a reference when I wired an addition and re-wired all the receptacles in my house.
Q:I am trying to change the electrical box to a ceiling fan box. House built in 1959. 4 wires are in the old box 4 white wires are sodered together from 3 of the wires. And one white and 3 black wires are sodered together. I can't take the box out until I cut the wires. What do I do after that? I have a picture I can send.
If you have to ask, then you need to hire an electrician.
Q:I have a 12V electrical device connected with a positive and negative (ground) wire. It is not live. Let's say I connect a second positive cable to the first one. When I turn on the power on the first positive cablee, the device runs fine. What happens if I then also turn on power on the second positive cable? Thanks.
not enough info. It isn't clear where that second wire is connected. if same source as the first, you really haven't done anything. If it is a different source, how is its return circuit completed? If you wiring is parallel, and both sources are identical but separate, then you basically double the maximum current but do not change the voltage. If you wire in circuit somehow, then you could double the voltage but do nothing to current. Basically, if you wire in a second power source, you increase the power available, and it is a question of whether that power comes from a voltage or current increase.
Q:I have a small John Deere tractor i keep at my lake lot. I have a big problem with rats chewing up the wiring. They have gone as far as getting into storage shed, get into the range cubes i keep for cattle feed and make a nest under the hood of the tractor.Is there any kind of electrical tape to wrap the wires with to keep them away. They chew not just threw the insulation, but even the copper wire.
Hi there. I had the same problem near my barn The oly thingthat worked was rat traps and rat bait. But becareful whne you go to use the tractor afterwards. I forgot about a rat trap it hit the cooling fan and . bits of rat flew everywhere I have heard that tractor supply sell a spray for this but i have never been able to find it.
Q:I have two 110v outdoor pole lights, one on a pole and one in a tree. The light attached to the tree is about 20 yards from the house, where it's wire originates. This wire is strung about 15 feet off the ground between the house and the light.A limb fell and snapped this wire about 10 feet from the tree. So I am curious, are there any splicing techniques or products that will support the weight of the wire and protect the splice from the weather?I have seen some epoxy splice kits in the past (put the spliced wire in a mold and fill with epoxy - for underground wiring), but am not sure if these kits are commercially available or if they will support the weight of the wire.
If you are running any wires that far they should be supported using a solid wire strand to take the load. Electrical wires themselves are not designed to take that type of load. A simple way to do this is to use a clothes line attached at both the house and tree and run to a ground rod at one or both ends in case of a short or lightning strike. You can then wrap the wire around it`s lenght or use ty wraps every 4 feet . If you are going to splice the wires using barrel type connectors , alternate your connections a few inches apart and insulate each one (shrink tube) as well as shrink tube the entire splice after to prevent moisture . Below are examples Don`t forget to place the large shrink on the wire before making the individual splices as this stuff does not work if you cut it open after forgetting to put it on. All these items are available at any electrical supply store. Don`t forget to use at least a 4' ground rod and the correct copper ground clamp . Available at the same place , and of course make sure the power is off before attempting this.
Q:i bought a duct fan that says to connect the wires (black, white, green) into the wires in the walls. can i wire the fan to an extension cord and then plug that into the wall instead of connecting to wires in the wall?
NO all wire junctions must by code be made in a junction box, and it MUST be accessible. Find the nearest junction box, if the circuit isn't going to be overloaded, tie into that with 12/2 romex, run that to your fan and hook them up to the fan inside the junction box on the fan. Do it right and safe.
Q:I want to wire a switch/outlet combo to control my router in a table. All I want is for the switch to control power to the outlet -- nothing else. The switch/outlet has five screws -- ground, N, A1 and two common. When i wired the black wire to A1 and the white to the opposite common, the breaker tripped. If I move the white to the N screw, it works, but this setup doesn't seem to make sense to me. I connect the switch/outlet combo via a standard 3-wire cord to a wall outlet. A side issue is that I can't insert the router power plug into the combo's outlet. It only goes in about half way.
You say a standard 3-wire. A 3-wire outlet is not standard. A 3-wire outlet would be for a machine that is 240V. 2 hots and a white. 2-wire is a standard outlet; black white green. White is common/neutral.no voltage should be on it. Sounds like you bought the wrong receptable. Sounds like you bought a 2-pole or maybe a 3 phase receptable. I'm not too sure to be honest.
Q:Why the birds standing on the wire ah what the line will not be electric shock?
nothing. Power frequency 50Hz current If you want to produce radiation, the length of the antenna = light speed ÷ 50 ≈ 6000 (Km). In real life there is no continuous length to 6000Km wire.

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