• Rock Wool Good Quality for Thermal Insulation - Roofing Insulation for Shop Walls System 1
  • Rock Wool Good Quality for Thermal Insulation - Roofing Insulation for Shop Walls System 2
  • Rock Wool Good Quality for Thermal Insulation - Roofing Insulation for Shop Walls System 3
Rock Wool Good Quality for Thermal Insulation - Roofing Insulation for Shop Walls

Rock Wool Good Quality for Thermal Insulation - Roofing Insulation for Shop Walls

Ref Price:
$5.00 - 10.00 / m² get latest price
Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
10000 m²
Supply Capability:
100000000 m²/month

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Rock Wool Good Quality For Thermal Insulation

1.Structure of Rock Wool Good Quality For Thermal Insulation

Rock wool insulation refers to a type of insulation that is made from actual rocks and minerals. It also goes by the names of stone wool insulation, mineral wool insulation, or slag wool insulation. A wide range of products can be made from rock wool, due to its excellent ability to block sound and heat. This type of insulation is commonly used in building construction, industrial plants, and in automotive applications.

 

The Manufacturing Process

Melting / Forming into fibers /Continuous-filament process/Staple-fiber process/ Chopped fiber/ Rock wool / Protective coatings /Forming into shapes

2.Main Features of Rock Wool Good Quality For Thermal Insulation

● FEATURES

Thermal Insulation

Fire Safety

Acoustic Control

No Corrosion

Environmental friendly

Moisture Resistance

Energy Conservation & Emissions Reduction

Different raw material: Our rock wool is mainly made by Basalt and other natural ores. The raw material for other so-called rock wool is mineral slag. Different raw material, different features.

Different corrosion resistance. Our rock wool have good corrosion resistance. non-corrosive for metal. But the mineral slag wool is different. In high humidity environment, CaS in mineral slag will have chemical reactions and produce corrosive when contact with metal.

Different working life. The working life for mineral slag is very short and Durability is very low because of higher CaO and MgO in slag. The efflorescence for mineral Slag is easy and also effect the working life. The

Different heat resisting. The heat resisting for rock wool(Basalt) is higher than mineral Slag wool. Our operating temperature can reach 800.But for Slag wool ,can not higher than 675.The features for our rock wool is totally superior to Slag wool.

3. Rock Wool Good Quality For Thermal Insulation Images

 

 

4. Rock Wool Good Quality For Thermal Insulation Specification

ROCK WOOL BLANKET & BOARD

Standard Size

Product Blanket Board

Density (kg/m3) 60-100 40-200

Size: L x W (mm) 1200X3000-6000 600X1200

Thickness (mm) 30-150 30-100

Remark:

Other sizes are available upon request.

Facing materials can be applied upon request.

 

Standard Size

Product Blanket Board

Density (kg/m3) 60-100 40-200

Size: L x W (mm) 1200X3000-6000 600X1200

Thickness (mm) 30-150 30-100

Remark:

Other sizes are available upon request.

Facing materials can be applied upon request.

Rock wool PIPE

Standard Size

DIA Thickness (mm)

inch mm 25 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 120 150

1/2’’ 22

3/4’’ 27

1’’ 34

1-1/4’’ 43

1-1/2’’ 48

2’’ 60

2-1/2’’ 76

3’’ 89

3-1/2’’ 108

4’’ 114

5’’ 140

6’’ 169

8’’ 219

10’’ 273

12’’ 325

14’’ 356

15’’ 381

16’’ 406

18’’ 456

19’’ 483

20’’ 508

22’’ 558

24’’ 610

 5.FAQ

We have organized several common questions for our clientsmay help you sincerely

①     What’s the mainly material for rock wool

Rock wool is called a mineral wool because it is made primarily from basalt, an igneous rock,

What’s the mainly type for rock wool

rock wool insulating products are available in loose-fill form and as batting. Batts, or blankets, are thick slabs of insulation that may have a kraft paper facing.

How you control the quality?

During the production of fiberglass insulation, material is sampled at a number of locations in the process to maintain quality.

 

Q: I have a low pitched roof so there isn't that much room up there hands and knees only.I have no eave ventilation but the ventilation is through the front and back of the house through triagle metal caps cut into the wood siding. I already have some R19 in the ceiling joists but was wondering would putting it in the rafters against the plywood holding the shingles also help insulate the living area of the house.
No blowing in some insulation will help but putting insulation against the roof wont help. the attic area is supposed to breath to avoid condensation and overheating. The only thing you would put on the roof side would be to help cooling in summer since the shingles heat up the wood underneath and heats the attic, which then works down through the ceiling.
Q: I'm thinking of converting my brick walled corrugated iron shed into a changing room for winter hot tub use. I was advised by a friend that the first thing i should do is insulate the roof using glass fibre insulation (the yellow fluffy stuff in the loft) and a simple Plywood ceiling but im not sure how i would stick it to the existing roof (dimensions 170cm x 147cm). So..... how should i insulate the roof of my future changing room????
If the roof has joists, which I imagine it would, you would put the bats of insulation into those spaces... these can then be stapled into place or if that isn't possible, you can run a wire between the joists to hold the bats in place. If using faced insulation be sure to put the paper side towards the warm area (inside) to prevent condensation.
Q: I am specifically considering the re-roofing of a an older home where rafters were made with 2x4 or 2x6 and the rafter space (and possibly the attic space) does not allow sufficient space for insulation and proper ventilation behind the insulation. The old layers of roofing have to be removed in any event. At this point I am considering applying insulation boards on the existing sheathing and then a new layer of sheathing before the new roofing material. (similar to a SIP: structural insulated panel) The two issues I am concerned with is that the insulation can act as a vapor barrier. Would condensation potentially rot the lower sheathing. How is this avoided in SIP roofing panels? The second issue may be with fire regulations.
The sip panels are vented depending on what thickness over all that you want. The last ones I used had 4 inches of rigid foam board then on top of that had 3" strips every 16" an inch thick which created an airspace. On top was 5/8 Osb. To create an affective air flow the fascia cannot plane through with the plywood at the bottom but fall just short of the 1" space. To cap it a oversized vented drip edge is used. You must also have a ridge vent for proper flow. These panels can near 100$. You can do it your own way like I do when building log cabins by laying 2" foam down first then lay 2x4 16 on center on top then finally your plywood. If you use CDX instead of Osb it will outlast it by 100%. Rigid foam insulation is not like batt-faced. Rfboard ins. Is used in boat hulls and even after being submerged for long periods of time will return to its original density and r-value. For obvious reasons batt ins. Will not. You won't have a moisture problem as long as you don't have a venting problem. If you are using high hat lighting don't let the cans touch your rigid ins. Tuck batt in softly around them TAKE THE PAPER OFF! By code if you have an interior wall 10or more ft. It must have a fireblock, simply a 2x4 turned flat between the studs. On your roof the ceiling you see inside, (most likely 7/8 tongue and groove boards) passes as the same. Good luck!
Q: I have 4 pieces (about 50 sq ft) of odd shaped polystyrene foam insulation between 3" and 4" thick. it's leftover from installing a flat roof. creative ideas anyone?
I'm a bit confused here Andy. If the flat roof needs replacing, when it is removed what is revealed is going to be exactly what you would see if you removed the ceilings. So why consider removing the ceilings if they are ok? When the flat roof is replaced put the insulation in then. Whilst rockwool would have been the material to use there is now roofing insulation board that is much more efficient, 50mm board gives equivalent insulation of something like 150mm rockwool. If the flatroof isn't fitted with suitable vents to keep it ventilated fit them when the roof is done too. The only reason I can see for replacing the ceiling plasterboard is if it hasn't got a vapor barrier ie foil backed board.
Q: on a traditional pitched roof construction,where is heat insulation usually provided?
The insulation is always placed in the rafters, leaving the rest of the attic space ventilated. That's why it's so important to cover every opening with screen to keep birds and animals out.
Q: I'd like to put a train set in my loft / attic, so to avoid it being cold in there during the winter I'm considering having no insulation in the floor of it where one usually would, thus allowing the heat to rise into the loft. Then, insulate the roof between the rafters instead. Is this just as good at keeping the heating costs down?
That's a far more complicated change than you realize. * The added area exposed to exterior conditions will increase your home's total heat loss with the same insulation values. * When that roof was installed, there was some form of venting sceme installed as well. If it was based on an insulated attic floor, it might need to be changed for an insulated roof. Get some advice from a 'pro', before you do anything.
Q: The roof does not have fillet under tiles, our house tends to be very cold and we want to remove the insulation and put a knew one, will our house be warm? any tips and advice.thank you for your time
Don't remove the old insulation , put new insulation over the old , making it double insulated. As suggested above blown in insulation is really good
Q: I've found lots of building forums and general "building advice" columns that go over very high-level pros/cons to choosing roofing material and insulation options, but I want a site where I can see hard costs of ordering each of the materials so I don't have to call up a ton of contractors or dealers. Does such a comparison site exist? Everyone offers quotes, but that takes too much time to apply for quotes to every dealer.I'm specifically interested in knowing what green options I can afford (cotton batting vs. formaldehyde-free fiberglass, etc.).
You could call ABC supply or Norandex Reynolds, they are the biggest distributors I know of. They may have some resources for you.
Q: attic is 400 sq ft.there are 4 round 6'' Vents in soffit,and 2 roof vents-12"x12".Rock wool,blown in,R/30 NO VAPOR BARRIER.Why the mold?no gable or ridge vent either.How do i fix this?There are baffles in attic,rafters are not blocked.
You still don't have enough attic ventilation. Definitely need more soffit vents. Roof mounted turbine vents that turn in the wind help suck more air through the attic. This coupled with at least one gable end vent should stop further mold. Removing old mold is a hassle, but can be done using diluted bleach in a lawn pump sprayer. A respirator will be needed to ensure you can breathe while applying the bleach solution.
Q: Can I install rigid insulation between roof decking and shingles on a sloped roof?
No. The shingles are applied directly to the decking (over felt paper). Nailing through rigid insulation will either cause dips from driving the occaisional nail too far, or the shingles won't be nailed down tight and will blow off in the wind. Insulate under the decking.

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