aluminum foil heat insulation

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Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 10

This is a new environmentally friendly aluminum foil bubble heat insulation material, which is soft, light and easy to install. It is made from aluminum foil and polyethylene through special machinery.

Function:

Can be installed on roof, wall or floor, resist over 80% external heat from buildings, protect wall, resist thermal shock and sudden cold, etc.

Characteristics:

1.No odor and toxicity, environmentally- friendly;

2.Moisture barrier, sun-proof, waterproof, good sealing property, heat preservation, energy saving…

3.Heat reflection, heat insulation, sound insulation, anti-radiation, anti-vibration, and shielding;

4.Light, soft, dust free, fire retardant, easy to install;

5.Summer: moisture barrier, sun-proof, heat insulation, saving energy consumed by cool air conditioning ;

6.Winter: heat preservation, central heating saving, and remarkable energy-saving effect.

Product: fireproof material

Technical parameters:

Material structure: AL/bubble/AL
Bubble size: ¢10mm, H 4mm
Bubble weight: 0.13 KG/M2
Roll size: 1.2M W*40M L (can be customized)
PROPERTIES	Test Data	Unit
Thickness	3.5	MM
Weight	256	G/M2
Emissivity	0.115	COEF.
Thermal conductivity	0.034	W/M0
Apparent Density	85	KG/M3
Reflectivity	95-96	%
Water Vapour Transmission	0.013	G/M2 KPA
Corrosion	Doesn't generate
Tensile strength (MD)	16.98	Mpa
Tensile strength (TD)	16.5	Mpa

Usage:
1. Roof, wall, floor;
2. Shells of air conditioner and water heater;
3. Protective coatings of water pipe and ventilating pip

Q:the noise when it rains is very loud. can I place an insulation material under the polycarbonate roof to reduce noise? Thanks: You can put it up there, but it's effectiveness at cutting noise would depend on the thickness of the insulation but you should not hope for too much reduction as the hard poly roofing is screwed or nailed directly to the rafters and is a good medium for sound transference.

Q:I am specifically considering the re-roofing of a an older home where rafters were made with 2x4 or 2x6 and the rafter space (and possibly the attic space) does not allow sufficient space for insulation and proper ventilation behind the insulation. The old layers of roofing have to be removed in any event. At this point I am considering applying insulation boards on the existing sheathing and then a new layer of sheathing before the new roofing material. (similar to a SIP: structural insulated panel) The two issues I am concerned with is that the insulation can act as a vapor barrier. Would condensation potentially rot the lower sheathing. How is this avoided in SIP roofing panels? The second issue may be with fire regulations.: The sip panels are vented depending on what thickness over all that you want. The last ones I used had 4 inches of rigid foam board then on top of that had 3" strips every 16" an inch thick which created an airspace. On top was 5/8 Osb. To create an affective air flow the fascia cannot plane through with the plywood at the bottom but fall just short of the 1" space. To cap it a oversized vented drip edge is used. You must also have a ridge vent for proper flow. These panels can near 100$. You can do it your own way like I do when building log cabins by laying 2" foam down first then lay 2x4 16 on center on top then finally your plywood. If you use CDX instead of Osb it will outlast it by 100%. Rigid foam insulation is not like batt-faced. Rfboard ins. Is used in boat hulls and even after being submerged for long periods of time will return to its original density and r-value. For obvious reasons batt ins. Will not. You won't have a moisture problem as long as you don't have a venting problem. If you are using high hat lighting don't let the cans touch your rigid ins. Tuck batt in softly around them TAKE THE PAPER OFF! By code if you have an interior wall 10or more ft. It must have a fireblock, simply a 2x4 turned flat between the studs. On your roof the ceiling you see inside, (most likely 7/8 tongue and groove boards) passes as the same. Good luck!

Q:Finally remembering to do so, before my family and I left the house for approximately 4 hours, I turned off the heat before leaving. When we came home I turned it back on, but was shocked to see that the temperature had dropped 4 degrees in that time. 4 degrees in just under 4 hours seems like a lot of heat loss, does it not? I've seen the insulation in our roof and it's just that sawdust looking stuff spread everywhere. I feel like I'm paying a lot of unnecessary dollars for heating: the air does kick on every hour or two and we keep the thermostat at 68.Is it reasonable for me to talk to my landlord about this problem and getting better insulation in the ceiling, and maybe in the roof? (the master bedroom, on the far corner of the house, is always 2-3 degrees below the rest of the house). Are my expectations to not lose a degree of heat or more per hour unreasonable? Would a typical landlord consider this a problem worth discussing?: You can ask and I'm sure the landlord would be happy to have more insulation installed at your expense. There are many factors which contribute to heat loss including how much thermal mass in the home (furnishings, etc.) and how well it absorbs heat, the type of flooring, how well your basement/crawl space is insulated, cold leaks through windows and doors, chimneys, and so on. Then there is the outside ambient temperature to factor in. Personally, I think 4 degrees in 4 hours is very little heat loss. But, that would depend upon what the outside temperature was. Added: The far bedroom is probably the furthest from your heating source. If you have hot water radiant heat and a basement that won't freeze during the toughest times, you can insulate the heating pipes if not already done. Wrapping with newspaper is a cost-effective way of doing it and since the pipe will never get to 451F, there is no danger of it igniting. However, no matter what, the furthest away from the heat source is going to be the coldest. If "far corner" is N, NE, W NW, those are the coldest spots on a house during winter due to lack of sunlight. Here's a tip from my serviceman -- don't turn your furnace too low during the night. There is a break-even point where the energy used to heat up the environment is equal to the energy saved by keeping it at a lower temperature. The range is about 8 degrees on average, but that's here in the NE. This bore out very well last year during a bitterly cold winter that started in October and went well into May when I kept the heat "cranked up" higher at night. I used less fuel than I did the year before, which only had 6 months of normal winter. I used to turn it down to 55 at night, but I turned it down to 62 from 70. I was seriously overdoing it thinking I was doing me and the environment a favor :)

Q:Help please, this home had a water pipe from meter brake in the basement as it was unoccupied/empty, the owner/builder replaced all the drywall, insulation, flooring, carpet, tile, roof, windows, hot water tank, furnace, bathroom and kitchen cabinets, new paint on all, basement ceiling was spray painted black (to hide something or to seal it?). the neighbor says the home was gutted and mold tested three times, its completely redone basically a new home inside, feedback please, it &quot;looks&quot; great: Sounds like the owners were pretty thorough in properly repairing any damage. If you are still concerned, you can ask to see the professional mold test review. You do not sound very convinced so, if you have any doubts or worries, I would steer clear of it and find a home you will be more comfortable in.

Q:I have a split house with an attic where I have insulation on attic floor, but the house seems to be cold still, Can I add insulation to the roof of the attic? If so, any options? Thank you.: Its wide-spread to have a insulated attic.. I once said a neighbor--that used a tremendous exhaust fan..and his roof became bowed.. He also would use alot of firewood in his abode.. i imagine that moisture by some ability--damaged the attic area--/

Q:what's the best insulation for ceilling for house with semi flat roof?: The pitch of your roof has nothing to do with the kind of insulation you should use. I recommend a fiberglass insulation that is at least 6 inches thick, the more you put in the better.

Q:I live in central florida. I plan on installing R-30 insulation to the floor of my attic. How effective is it to install reflective insulation to the attic on the roof side? Is it worth the price?: the best floor insulation is the two on the roof or the 1st floor ceiling, (floor of the attic), no longer the two. If that is already on the ceiling, the attic is vented to the exterior, and insulating the roof could make little or no distinction. Laying one extra 'blanket on the floor is a thank you to bypass in case you prefer to enhance. Insulating a roof will boost the summer season temperature of the roofing, and could adversely result the life of a few components.

Q:I work with rubber roofing insulation. How , other than long sleeves, do I deal with the after effects of being exposed to this insulation.: Before working rub talcum powder over skin This keeps the insulation from getting into the skin acts like a barrier.. Then when you get home rinse with cold water when rinsed take as hot a you can stand it shower this opens your pores allowing the insulation to come out then afterward rub baby oil over skin to help with irritation. A benydril allergy pill helps with the itch as well.

Q:i am going to insulate my conservatory roof its poly carbon and dirt has got inside so cant clean what can i use its a semi flat roof i thought about using insulation board silver backed your comments will be gratefull: I got mine insulated by a company - insulated conservatoryes. It's good stuff, and works

Q:I have a valley between two roof peaks that gets a huge icicle every year. I know this area is not insulated very well. In the house it is a dead area between two rooms. I would like to get someone over here and blow it full of insulation (couple calls in, awaiting response). In the meantime, I do have heat tapes installed on the roof in this area. It's a 50' run, zigzagged and some goes into gutter and the downspout.I am paranoid of fire hazards and have a real problem leaving these tapes plugged in. That being said, I realize snow is all around and water is flowing in this case. Is it safe to leave these plugged in?Is there a time I should be unplugging?Will this help my icicle problem?Serious replies only please. I prefer from a licensed contractor/insulator.Thanks in advance.: James M has a good answer- Your problems (as mine) are found in the attic - or below the roof surface. If the roof is warmed from within the house, the snow will melt daily and re-freeze at night. Your task is to keep the roof COLD by insulating the eaves from warm air. Also the attic space. The attic air should rise to a vent in gables or along the roof ridge... then exit. The interior temperature should be chilly at all times with snow on the roof- 40degF or below. In my case (maybe yours?), the warmth comes from the Top of the exterior walls - the top plate is very near the roof- and heat from the living space travels upward inside the wall to this support... a LINE of snow melt is visible where the wall meets the roof. I need to reinsulate the entire exterior to get control of roof snow melt... or visit the roof with a snow rake after heavy snow.

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