Buy Rock Wool Roofing Insulation Boards Online at Good Price for Thermal Insulation

Ref Price:: $5.00 - 10.00 / m²

Loading Port:: Tianjin

Payment Terms:: TT or LC

Min Order Qty:: 10000 m²

Supply Capability:: 100000000 m²/month

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Rock Wool Price For Thermal Insulation

1.Structure of Rock Wool Price For Thermal Insulation：

Rock wool insulation refers to a type of insulation that is made from actual rocks and minerals. It also goes by the names of stone wool insulation, mineral wool insulation, or slag wool insulation. A wide range of products can be made from rock wool, due to its excellent ability to block sound and heat. This type of insulation is commonly used in building construction, industrial plants, and in automotive applications.

The Manufacturing Process

Melting / Forming into fibers /Continuous-filament process/Staple-fiber process/ Chopped fiber/ Rock wool / Protective coatings /Forming into shapes

2.Main Features of Rock Wool Price For Thermal Insulation：

● FEATURES

Thermal Insulation

Fire Safety

Acoustic Control

No Corrosion

Environmental friendly

Moisture Resistance

Energy Conservation & Emissions Reduction

Different raw material: Our rock wool is mainly made by Basalt and other natural ores. The raw material for other so-called rock wool is mineral slag. Different raw material, different features.

Different corrosion resistance. Our rock wool have good corrosion resistance. non-corrosive for metal. But the mineral slag wool is different. In high humidity environment, CaS in mineral slag will have chemical reactions and produce corrosive when contact with metal.

Different working life. The working life for mineral slag is very short and Durability is very low because of higher CaO and MgO in slag. The efflorescence for mineral Slag is easy and also effect the working life. The

Different heat resisting. The heat resisting for rock wool(Basalt) is higher than mineral Slag wool. Our operating temperature can reach 800℃.But for Slag wool ,can not higher than 675℃.The features for our rock wool is totally superior to Slag wool.

3. Rock Wool Price For Thermal Insulation Images

Rock Wool Good Price For Thermal Insulation

4. Rock Wool Price For Thermal Insulation Specification

ROCK WOOL BLANKET & BOARD

Standard Size

Product Blanket Board

Density (kg/m3) 60-100 40-200

Size: L x W (mm) 1200X3000-6000 600X1200

Thickness (mm) 30-150 30-100

Remark:

Other sizes are available upon request.

Facing materials can be applied upon request.

Standard Size

Product Blanket Board

Density (kg/m3) 60-100 40-200

Size: L x W (mm) 1200X3000-6000 600X1200

Thickness (mm) 30-150 30-100

Remark:

Other sizes are available upon request.

Facing materials can be applied upon request.

Rock wool PIPE

Standard Size

DIA Thickness (mm)

inch mm 25 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 120 150

1/2’’ 22 ● ● ●

3/4’’ 27 ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

1’’ 34 ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

1-1/4’’ 43 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

1-1/2’’ 48 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

2’’ 60 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

2-1/2’’ 76 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

3’’ 89 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

3-1/2’’ 108 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

4’’ 114 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

5’’ 140 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

6’’ 169 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

8’’ 219 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

10’’ 273 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

12’’ 325 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

14’’ 356 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

15’’ 381 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

16’’ 406 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

18’’ 456 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●

19’’ 483 ● ● ● ● ● ●

20’’ 508 ● ● ● ● ● ●

22’’ 558 ● ● ● ● ●

24’’ 610 ● ● ● ● ●

5.FAQ

We have organized several common questions for our clients，may help you sincerely：

① What’s the mainly material for rock wool？

Rock wool is called a mineral wool because it is made primarily from basalt, an igneous rock,

②What’s the mainly type for rock wool？

rock wool insulating products are available in loose-fill form and as batting. Batts, or blankets, are thick slabs of insulation that may have a kraft paper facing.

③How you control the quality?

During the production of fiberglass insulation, material is sampled at a number of locations in the process to maintain quality.

Q:I am specifically considering the re-roofing of a an older home where rafters were made with 2x4 or 2x6 and the rafter space (and possibly the attic space) does not allow sufficient space for insulation and proper ventilation behind the insulation. The old layers of roofing have to be removed in any event. At this point I am considering applying insulation boards on the existing sheathing and then a new layer of sheathing before the new roofing material. (similar to a SIP: structural insulated panel) The two issues I am concerned with is that the insulation can act as a vapor barrier. Would condensation potentially rot the lower sheathing. How is this avoided in SIP roofing panels? The second issue may be with fire regulations.: Spray in foam could be an option.. you would need to talk to someone who knows more than I do.. but Ive seen great results

Q:Finally remembering to do so, before my family and I left the house for approximately 4 hours, I turned off the heat before leaving. When we came home I turned it back on, but was shocked to see that the temperature had dropped 4 degrees in that time. 4 degrees in just under 4 hours seems like a lot of heat loss, does it not? I've seen the insulation in our roof and it's just that sawdust looking stuff spread everywhere. I feel like I'm paying a lot of unnecessary dollars for heating: the air does kick on every hour or two and we keep the thermostat at 68.Is it reasonable for me to talk to my landlord about this problem and getting better insulation in the ceiling, and maybe in the roof? (the master bedroom, on the far corner of the house, is always 2-3 degrees below the rest of the house). Are my expectations to not lose a degree of heat or more per hour unreasonable? Would a typical landlord consider this a problem worth discussing?: The roof (assume pitched) doesn't need insulating it's above the attic above the ceilings of all the rooms that need 12 inch of mineral wool insulation to stop heat loss (you may have less thickness not all insulation is to the correct standards) Also if as I suspect the walls of your home are timber with shiplap (and not solid brick / cavity walls) they also require insulation top up. From a google search there is state wide Government grants for insulating homes, could be available in your state? using blown insulation to walls/ceilings. If you decide to install it yourself the payback is excellent -in 12 months depending on fuel cost and what existing insulation (from your description minimal) The landlord could be entitled to increase your lease costs if he takes the work on as he has greatly improved the thermal insulation which will reduce your heating costs and make his property more valuable to lease.

Q:This is blocking airflow and I'm having it removed after I bought the house. There is already insulation on the attic 'floor'. This is double insulated and is not correct. Why would anyone do this?: No building codes back then, and maybe he was thinking about putting an extra room up there then you would have to insulate the rafters also

Q:What is the aim of insulation in walls and in roofs?: Proper insulation is designed to keep you comfortable in al sorts of weather. In the winter it reduces your utility bills by keeping the cold outside where it belongs. It does the opposite in summer. It keeps the heat out. Learn all about it here.

Q:The attic was converted into two rooms and I want to add insulation but the space between the ceiling of the rooms and the roof is about 5 inches? How should I do this?: It sounds like you will have to use blown insulation. They will drill holes in the walls to blow the insulation in. Over time, this type of insulation will drop down or compress; so you will have to top it off over time. You might also add acoustical tile to the exiting ceiling to add a little more insulating value.

Q:do i have to have insulation in my roof?: Maybe, you do need insulation above the ceilings (it will be between the ceiling joists/framing that also serve as the attic floor joists/framing. 1. If you have a finished attic (for a living area of some sort) then yes there should be insulation with a vapor barrier under the roof &/or between the roof framing. This will help keep heating/cooling costs down and prevent condensation from forming under the roof and doing lots of water damage over time. 2. If the attic is partially finished but used for storage only & there is attic ventilation in use also then no you don't need insulation under your roof. 3. If your attic is partially finished or completely finished but used for storage only and there is no attic ventilation then yes you should have insulation with a vapor barrier also under the roof. You don't have to have it since it's used for storage only but if you start to see condensation &/or wet areas on the wood or framing under the roof then you will need insulation with a vapor barrier installed. If for any reason insulation is installed under the roof it must be installed correctly and have in place a proper method of ventilation directly under the roof itself. All roof systems in the attic areas must have proper ventilation to prevent any possibility of condensation forming under &/or in the wood roof framing & sheathing materials that will rot the wood over time.

Q:I work with rubber roofing insulation. How , other than long sleeves, do I deal with the after effects of being exposed to this insulation.: I'm not sure if your questioning what to do before or after. A lot of experience contractors that work with insulation use generous amounts of baby powder on their skin before covering up prior to work. The baby powder fills up the pores keeping the insulation out. Insulation can travel through cotton clothing, but it is better than nothing. After the work is done wash off with cold water. The cold water closes the pores in your skin, while rinsing off the bulk of the insulation on your skin. Then use any temperature you like to complete the process.

Q:hi me and my friends made a lounge out of my old tin roof shed we have a tv speakers and a few other electrical goods... since winters on its way we were wondering whats the best and cheapest way to insulate the place note that its a tin rof but has wood under it where the old indulation used to be the place is pretty chilly and sometime damp plz help we dont wanna be freezing our asses off in there thanks :): I'm assuming that it's open at the ceiling.You could put in a drop ceiling to hold the heat further down.If it's damp you may want to make sure the area between the ceiling an roof are well ventilated.You could then place insulation on top of your drop ceiling so there's a barrier to hold down heat.

Q:I have a converted loft which is really cold. The roof doesn't have any insulation, just a waterproof sheet, but i don't want to spend too much insulating it with the proper boards. If i use mineral wool and staple it across the roof trusses will it do a good job?: Yes, be sure to leave an air space between the top of the insulation and the roof deck to allow for ventilation, and use a vapor barrier on the interior side of the insulation.

Q:Hi, I have got a physics question and was just wondering about it.. Can someone pls tell me how does roof insulation work? how is it effective? How does the insulation changes the heat circulation and transfer inside a house?I know that the insulation prevents radiation from the sun and overheating.. but any more details about radiation, convection and conduction of heat pls?: Well insulation makes a dead air space (air is stagnant). Since the air is not moving the transfer of hot and cold is slowed down considerably. But since you have to create cross ventilation to reduce rotting in wood and the build up of explosive gasses. Its a crap shoot that it even does any good. Radiation is heat so that's covered by the dead air space. Convection is usually not an issue with the cross venting. Also for conduction the insulation should slow it down considerably.

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