Aluminium Foil EPE Foam Insulation Sound Insulation Sponge Roofing Insulation Fasteners

Aluminium Foil EPE Foam Insulation Sound Insulation Sponge Roofing Insulation Fasteners System 1

Aluminium Foil EPE Foam Insulation Sound Insulation Sponge Roofing Insulation Fasteners

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Aluminum foil/XPE,EPE foam insulation

Characteristics

1.light weight,clean,thin,good flexibility and cushioning;

2.invariable if it is attacked repeatedly;

3.It overcomes the shortcoming of general foam such as,rubber ordinary brittle,the distortion,resilient.And also having super waterproof, moisture-proof, quakeproof, sound-insulated,the heat preservation,good plasticity,strong toughness, the circulation restoration, the environmental protection,strong anti-hit strength.So is it one good substitute material for the general packing material.

Application:

It using many flexibility for handbags luggage lining, industrial production of sound insulation,thermal insulation material of agricultural, aquaculture floating equipment, protective sports pad, water rescue operation equipment, home, hotel floor decoration, cushions and so on. The pipe is used extensively for air-conditioning, baby stroller, children's toys, furniture and other industries. EPE laminated fabricit ,as a good decoration material,generally use to various vehicles and living room.EPE alu film and alu foil or other composite products have excellent anti-ultraviolet infrared capabilities.It is also one good substitute material for a number of chemical and camping equipment, cold storage equipment,car shade.

Such as for industrial sheds,commercial buildings,home insulation,under wood or laminated flooring,roof insulation, carpet underlay and construction,packaging material to the sensitive products. To protect precise machine,elevator,slap up furniture ,sun shade,sand beach mat,heat preservation,and terrestrial heat.

Specification

Name of the products	Aluminum foil with FR grade EPE/XPE foam insulation
Mainly materials	Aluminum foil,EPE,XPE,IXPE foam,Metallized PET,LDPE,HDPE WOVEN,Air bubble
Structure	1.Alu(Metallized PET)+PE+XPE/EPE 2.Alu(Metallized PET)+PE+XPE/EPE+PE 3.Alu(Metallized PET)+PE+XPE/EPE+PE+Alu(Metallized PET) 4.Alu(Metallized PET)+PE+Woven+PE+XPE/EPE+Woven+PE+Alu(Metallized PET) 5.Alu(Metallized PET)+PE+XPE/EPE+PE Bubble+Alu(Metallized PET) 6.Alu(Metallized PET)+PE+Woven+PE+XPE/EPE+PE Bubble+PE+Woven+PE+Alu(Metallized PET) 7.Customized
Aluminum foil thickness	6.5mic,7mic,9mic,12mic,15mic and so on
Metallized PET	10mic,12mic,15mic and so on
Foam thickness	0.5-7mm
Width and length	Width from 0.8-1.6m,length can be 20m,30m,40m,50m,100m and customized
Foam color	Red,green,blue,white,black and customized

Technical parameter

Type:Al/4mm EPE/Al

Structure	Al/4mm EPE foam/Al
Roll Dimension	1.2m*40m
Thickness	4mm
Weight	195g/m2
Emittance	0.03
Reflectivity	97%
R-Value	Up to R-11
Flame spread	25
Water Vapour Transmission	0.012g/m2 Kpa
Fungi Growth	No Fungi
Corrosion	Doesn't generate

Q: do i have to have insulation in my roof?: Maybe, you do need insulation above the ceilings (it will be between the ceiling joists/framing that also serve as the attic floor joists/framing. 1. If you have a finished attic (for a living area of some sort) then yes there should be insulation with a vapor barrier under the roof &/or between the roof framing. This will help keep heating/cooling costs down and prevent condensation from forming under the roof and doing lots of water damage over time. 2. If the attic is partially finished but used for storage only & there is attic ventilation in use also then no you don't need insulation under your roof. 3. If your attic is partially finished or completely finished but used for storage only and there is no attic ventilation then yes you should have insulation with a vapor barrier also under the roof. You don't have to have it since it's used for storage only but if you start to see condensation &/or wet areas on the wood or framing under the roof then you will need insulation with a vapor barrier installed. If for any reason insulation is installed under the roof it must be installed correctly and have in place a proper method of ventilation directly under the roof itself. All roof systems in the attic areas must have proper ventilation to prevent any possibility of condensation forming under &/or in the wood roof framing & sheathing materials that will rot the wood over time.

Q: I know you're not supposed to directly insulate the roof due to the roof getting super heated in the summer, but my walk-in (actually, more like &quot;crawl in&quot;) attic is very hot in the summer and very cold in the winter. Is there anything I can do to improve efficiency? I can't help but think I'm wasting a lot of energy just to keep my roof lasting a little longer.: You can avoid the condensation problem by simply leaving a minimum 2'' gap between the roof and the insulation. You need to fix battens on to the rafters ( at least 2'' from the tiles ) and then fix blanket or rigid insulation tight between them. The battens will maintain the air space. You then need to fix a vapour barrier over the whole thing and finish with plasterboard. No small job to do it properly ! ps you need to check the condition of the roof before you start and fix any loose tiles etc Alternatively, turn the heating up and wear a thicker sweater.

Q: were can i buy material to insulate pans and instructions to install it? I have seen many roofs with this done ,but , the lowe,s and home depots don't have .: metal pan usually refers to a pan that concrete is then poured into. If there is no concrete in it (and a flat membrane roof over that) then its called currogated metal roof. Either way they look the same. Hard to insulate cause they are not meant to insulate. there are some sold with insulation already attached - its a thin floam layer - thats a newer thing but not sure how new. heard of some mobile home mfgs and storage building builders using spray on insulation under the panels. As for aftermarket on insulating- you may be able to have spray on insulation applied from under neath - if the space is open and accessible. it looks and feels like foam, can get a bit messy , but maybe do-able depnding on your application. If its not a open space with maybe drywall under it - you might think about opening up the space in the ceiling and having blown in insulation done (much cheaper then sprayed on). Blown in will insulate just fine but someone would have to look at your application and area cause in some instances - blown in insulation can be bad for high moisture situations. also- if this happens to be in a house - by adding insulation to steel - you might be breaking fire code - something to keep in mind for safety.

Q: How much insulation is required in a house roof in new York ?: 323 square feet per cubic mile.

Q: I'm thinking of converting my brick walled corrugated iron shed into a changing room for winter hot tub use. I was advised by a friend that the first thing i should do is insulate the roof using glass fibre insulation (the yellow fluffy stuff in the loft) and a simple Plywood ceiling but im not sure how i would stick it to the existing roof (dimensions 170cm x 147cm). So..... how should i insulate the roof of my future changing room????: If the roof has joists, which I imagine it would, you would put the bats of insulation into those spaces... these can then be stapled into place or if that isn't possible, you can run a wire between the joists to hold the bats in place. If using faced insulation be sure to put the paper side towards the warm area (inside) to prevent condensation.

Q: We had a water leak in our pipes in our foundation and had to re-route our pipes along our roof. We have tried some really basic insulation for piping, but it usually deteriorates very quickly due to sun light and wind. What are some ways we can insulate our pipes effectively without having to re-insulate every month? This has to be something fairly simple and inexpensive. We aren't looking for perfect insulation, just something that will keep the water warm in the winter and cool in the summer.: they sell insulation at the home improvement stores. if you have tried that type then you will need to call a proffessional to insulate with fiberglass and wrap with tin protective cover. depends how cold it gets you may have to use heat tape also.

Q: I am purchasing a mobile home with a shingled roof. The shingles need to be replaced (&gt;15yrs old) and with the cost of heating going up each day I thought I would added some of that 2&quot; thick rigid insulation. I would place this right on top of the existing roof and then place the firring strips for the metal roof right on top of the rigid insulation panels (which are 4x8'). By using 3&quot; galvanized sheet rock screws I will get a good solid attachment. Then I will put the metal roofing on to the firring strips as normal. Does anyone see any downside to doing this? Has anyone tried this before?: I agree with the soundness of every part of your plan EXCEPT not removing the original shingle roof. The shingle roof is already at the end of its usable life. There’s no benefit to covering up old problems, and they will most likely affect the durability of the new roof. Plus, removing the old roof gives you the opportunity to inspect and repair any issues with the roofing deck. Your new insulation and metal roof will attach better and perform better by removing the old shingle roof.

Q: Best roofing insulation to keep warm in the winter?: Aluminum is a good resister to thermal flow, but its primary characteristic is to stop the transfer of air. A solid barrier of aluminum will stop air movement, and will reflect heat back. A drawback is that it must be installed in a way so that no air can move through any cracks. Blown in fiberglass is your best bet. Trapped air is what insulates a space. Cellulose settles with gravity after a period of time, the fiberglass does not settle, traps more air, and can have a resistance value of up to 33. A well-insulated attic will keep you warm in winter, and keep the hot attic air from infiltrating your home in summer.

Q: What's better- to lay out roof insulation in an old house or to get it blown in?: anybody can do either.nothing to it.i prefer blown, because it isnt near as itchy.you can rent the blower from home stores, but it takes 2 people to run.

Q: We bought a house and put new metal roof on over the shingles. (first please don't say, this or that should have been done, just what I can do now) Any how, we have put a lot of money into the house, roof, all new electrical, all new plumbing, etc., I had to make the house in a &quot;living in condition&quot; with a low budget. ............ the house does not have insulation in ceilings, this has to be done next summer. (budget) Any how, the metal roof has condensation under it, only in the ridge vent area. This drips a little and I need to fix it. Now, I know that insulation wouldprobablyy fix this, but we don't have the money right now, so I need help on what to do? Is there anything that with a $100 to $200 budget can be done? I have searched a little, and maybe use a &quot;spray-on&quot;insulation help? The area is where the gap is at the peak and where themetall overlaps the ridge vent. (I thinkthat'ss what it's called)Thank you! :): Use kraft faced insulation for attics R-19. It won't fill the whole cavity, but will instead provide room for ventilation. Staple it tightmaking sure all gaps are filled. Next, hang sheetrock on the ceiling. My brother omitted this step and gets a lot of cold air bleed down. Then put on your pine. It wouldn't hurt to install a ceiling fan up there too, especially if you are using some sort of non vented gas fireplace or heater. They put out humidity.

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