Roofing Insulation Fasteners - Aluminum Foil EPE/XPE Foam Insulation

Roofing Insulation Fasteners - Aluminum Foil EPE/XPE Foam Insulation System 1

Roofing Insulation Fasteners - Aluminum Foil EPE/XPE Foam Insulation

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Aluminum foil/XPE,EPE foam insulation

Characteristics

1.light weight,clean,thin,good flexibility and cushioning;

2.invariable if it is attacked repeatedly;

3.It overcomes the shortcoming of general foam such as,rubber ordinary brittle,the distortion,resilient.And also having super waterproof, moisture-proof, quakeproof, sound-insulated,the heat preservation,good plasticity,strong toughness, the circulation restoration, the environmental protection,strong anti-hit strength.So is it one good substitute material for the general packing material.

Application:

It using many flexibility for handbags luggage lining, industrial production of sound insulation,thermal insulation material of agricultural, aquaculture floating equipment, protective sports pad, water rescue operation equipment, home, hotel floor decoration, cushions and so on. The pipe is used extensively for air-conditioning, baby stroller, children's toys, furniture and other industries. EPE laminated fabricit ,as a good decoration material,generally use to various vehicles and living room.EPE alu film and alu foil or other composite products have excellent anti-ultraviolet infrared capabilities.It is also one good substitute material for a number of chemical and camping equipment, cold storage equipment,car shade.

Such as for industrial sheds,commercial buildings,home insulation,under wood or laminated flooring,roof insulation, carpet underlay and construction,packaging material to the sensitive products. To protect precise machine,elevator,slap up furniture ,sun shade,sand beach mat,heat preservation,and terrestrial heat.

Specification

Name of the products	Aluminum foil with FR grade EPE/XPE foam insulation
Mainly materials	Aluminum foil,EPE,XPE,IXPE foam,Metallized PET,LDPE,HDPE WOVEN,Air bubble
Structure	1.Alu(Metallized PET)+PE+XPE/EPE 2.Alu(Metallized PET)+PE+XPE/EPE+PE 3.Alu(Metallized PET)+PE+XPE/EPE+PE+Alu(Metallized PET) 4.Alu(Metallized PET)+PE+Woven+PE+XPE/EPE+Woven+PE+Alu(Metallized PET) 5.Alu(Metallized PET)+PE+XPE/EPE+PE Bubble+Alu(Metallized PET) 6.Alu(Metallized PET)+PE+Woven+PE+XPE/EPE+PE Bubble+PE+Woven+PE+Alu(Metallized PET) 7.Customized
Aluminum foil thickness	6.5mic,7mic,9mic,12mic,15mic and so on
Metallized PET	10mic,12mic,15mic and so on
Foam thickness	0.5-7mm
Width and length	Width from 0.8-1.6m,length can be 20m,30m,40m,50m,100m and customized
Foam color	Red,green,blue,white,black and customized

Technical parameter

Type:Al/4mm EPE/Al

Structure	Al/4mm EPE foam/Al
Roll Dimension	1.2m*40m
Thickness	4mm
Weight	195g/m2
Emittance	0.03
Reflectivity	97%
R-Value	Up to R-11
Flame spread	25
Water Vapour Transmission	0.012g/m2 Kpa
Fungi Growth	No Fungi
Corrosion	Doesn't generate

Q: do i have to have insulation in my roof?: you should have insulation on the attic. ot should be right against the occupied ceilings. The attic cavity needs to be for the most part ventilated. That is a common building approach. Ive seen insulated sheets of plywood the roof shingles are nail to. You can call that roof insulator. You still better off with the common industry approach. Make sure you have an attic fan to level the attic temperature to the outside.

Q: I know you're not supposed to directly insulate the roof due to the roof getting super heated in the summer, but my walk-in (actually, more like &quot;crawl in&quot;) attic is very hot in the summer and very cold in the winter. Is there anything I can do to improve efficiency? I can't help but think I'm wasting a lot of energy just to keep my roof lasting a little longer.: You can avoid the condensation problem by simply leaving a minimum 2'' gap between the roof and the insulation. You need to fix battens on to the rafters ( at least 2'' from the tiles ) and then fix blanket or rigid insulation tight between them. The battens will maintain the air space. You then need to fix a vapour barrier over the whole thing and finish with plasterboard. No small job to do it properly ! ps you need to check the condition of the roof before you start and fix any loose tiles etc Alternatively, turn the heating up and wear a thicker sweater.

Q: i am going to insulate my conservatory roof its poly carbon and dirt has got inside so cant clean what can i use its a semi flat roof i thought about using insulation board silver backed your comments will be gratefull: How To Insulate Conservatory Roof

Q: So I'm renovating an old farmhouse with a metal roof and there is no insulation in the attic. I was up in the attic checking for leaks since we just got some freezing rain and it is currently melting I thought now was the perfect time to check. I found no leaks but I did notice the roof was sweating with noticeable beads of water in many places and many of the 2x4's that act as the frame were damp, although none were rotted (I found that odd as the house is approx. 140 years old and those are the original 2x4's. I could tell that the attic does have vents so I guess it dries out before rotting or mold occurs.. but makes me wonder if I put down some roll-in faced R-30 Owens Corning Insulation and then add a plywood floor over top if everything will be fine.. or not so fine..: Hi, GA. On my second coffee here, so bear with me if a little fuzzy. Trying to envision what you're looking at, first thing I hear is 2x4 roof framing, not say the 2x6 or 2x8 rafters I would expect. A 2x4 structure and metal roof is a light build more suitable for a shed or outbuilding than a home. Wouldn't tolerate much additional weight, like from plywood. Next thing, which I don't hear, is whether there's moisture on the attic's "floor", where you're standing. I'm thinking the moisture you're noting is above you, on the undersurface of the roofing, and on the rafters. Finally, while some condensation on the underside makes sense, it would also seem quite possible that there are a number of small leaks through the roof. My goals would be to first ensure there are no leaks through the roof surface, then to ensure the attic indeed has enough venting, then to both reduce air from the lower living level bleeding through up to the attic space (also good to reduce convective heat loss), then to insulate the attic floor to reduce radiant heat loss from below and warming of the attic air, pretty much in that order. The prize is a leak-free roof over a cold attic space.

Q: We have recently moved into a house in Australia with a tin roof. There is a layer of 5cm batts on the rafters in the roof space, but the temp is 10-15 degrees C higher up there than in the house (with all the windows and doors open). I don't want to get air-conditioning, is there another way to insulate the roof and cool the house?: put insulation above the ceiling (not on the rafters) and add vents on each side of the attic....

Q: Hello, this is quite an ordeal I've got. I am renting a cabin that has galvanized metal sheets as roofing. These are of course nailed into large wooden beans that run all acrooss.The owner and I made a deal, that deal is that I will put up insulation on the roof. However, she wants to put (i don't knw what they are called) big rectangular styrofam blocks (about 3x9 feet long). She wants me to cut them up to a width where they will feet in between the wooden beams and somehow secure them on. My idea of securing them is by nailing a plastic covering over them. but I am unsure about how to do the rest. How will i get the blocks to stay put if i cannot nail them? is there a better and CHEAP way to do it?As of now, if you look up you see the wooden beams and the tin metal roof. She wants it to be insulated and not visible.: Visit your local Lowes, Ace, or Home Depot. Buy a caulking gun and a few tubes of industrial grade adhesive from their large selection. Read the label and choose an adhesive that mentions both plastic and metal. (If I were doing it, I would try some silicon on the Styrofoam and if it doesn't melt, use silicon, but there are dozens of different adhesives on the shelves.) Once you have the right adhesive, cut the foam to fit snugly between the roof members, and stick them up. To cover the Styrofoam, use any lightweight material you can find. I would try to find wall paper that simulates barn-board. (I have seen it somewhere.) Just apply a coat of wallpaper sizing to the Styrofoam first to give the wallpaper glue something to stick to. Most wallpapers already have the glue on the back; you just run it thru water to wet it. I use a large paint roller tray with a piece of stiff wire across it. Then I drop my cut to length strip of paper in the deep end of the tray and pull it thru under the wire. Have fun. Honey

Q: I know when you inhale the insulation from the roof irritates the throat but what can you do to clear it from your throat after inhaling it?: it's not your throat you should be worried about. it's your lungs. wear a respirator....or at the very least, a dust mask. you only live once so make it last.

Q: I am thinking about getting cavity wall and roof insulation at the moment.But since summer is approaching, I fear that getting the insulation will mean that the house will be very hot at night. (During day time the house will accumulate heat from the sun, and the heat cannot escape).I also fear that the ventilation will be bad and the air in the house will not be as fresh.Any advice please?: please stop worrying.your house will be warmer,but not hot.it is also a good idea to open your windows for at least 20 mins a day to allow claen/fresh air to circulate.you are correct in doing the job now though.

Q: fixing my room up and it gets hot in summer so i want to put some good insulation in the roof so what could i use?: if you are going to put in insulation put in the roll kind. it will be very easy and less expensive

Q: attic is 400 sq ft.there are 4 round 6'' Vents in soffit,and 2 roof vents-12&quot;x12&quot;.Rock wool,blown in,R/30 NO VAPOR BARRIER.Why the mold?no gable or ridge vent either.How do i fix this?There are baffles in attic,rafters are not blocked.: Are your bathroom exhaust fans blowing straight into the attic, maybe? Or your dryer vent?

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