Roofing Insulation Fasteners - Aluminum Foil EPE/XPE Foam Insulation

Roofing Insulation Fasteners - Aluminum Foil EPE/XPE Foam Insulation System 1

Roofing Insulation Fasteners - Aluminum Foil EPE/XPE Foam Insulation

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Aluminum foil/XPE,EPE foam insulation

Characteristics

1.light weight,clean,thin,good flexibility and cushioning;

2.invariable if it is attacked repeatedly;

3.It overcomes the shortcoming of general foam such as,rubber ordinary brittle,the distortion,resilient.And also having super waterproof, moisture-proof, quakeproof, sound-insulated,the heat preservation,good plasticity,strong toughness, the circulation restoration, the environmental protection,strong anti-hit strength.So is it one good substitute material for the general packing material.

Application:

It using many flexibility for handbags luggage lining, industrial production of sound insulation,thermal insulation material of agricultural, aquaculture floating equipment, protective sports pad, water rescue operation equipment, home, hotel floor decoration, cushions and so on. The pipe is used extensively for air-conditioning, baby stroller, children's toys, furniture and other industries. EPE laminated fabricit ,as a good decoration material,generally use to various vehicles and living room.EPE alu film and alu foil or other composite products have excellent anti-ultraviolet infrared capabilities.It is also one good substitute material for a number of chemical and camping equipment, cold storage equipment,car shade.

Such as for industrial sheds,commercial buildings,home insulation,under wood or laminated flooring,roof insulation, carpet underlay and construction,packaging material to the sensitive products. To protect precise machine,elevator,slap up furniture ,sun shade,sand beach mat,heat preservation,and terrestrial heat.

Specification

Name of the products	Aluminum foil with FR grade EPE/XPE foam insulation
Mainly materials	Aluminum foil,EPE,XPE,IXPE foam,Metallized PET,LDPE,HDPE WOVEN,Air bubble
Structure	1.Alu(Metallized PET)+PE+XPE/EPE 2.Alu(Metallized PET)+PE+XPE/EPE+PE 3.Alu(Metallized PET)+PE+XPE/EPE+PE+Alu(Metallized PET) 4.Alu(Metallized PET)+PE+Woven+PE+XPE/EPE+Woven+PE+Alu(Metallized PET) 5.Alu(Metallized PET)+PE+XPE/EPE+PE Bubble+Alu(Metallized PET) 6.Alu(Metallized PET)+PE+Woven+PE+XPE/EPE+PE Bubble+PE+Woven+PE+Alu(Metallized PET) 7.Customized
Aluminum foil thickness	6.5mic,7mic,9mic,12mic,15mic and so on
Metallized PET	10mic,12mic,15mic and so on
Foam thickness	0.5-7mm
Width and length	Width from 0.8-1.6m,length can be 20m,30m,40m,50m,100m and customized
Foam color	Red,green,blue,white,black and customized

Technical parameter

Type:Al/4mm EPE/Al

Structure	Al/4mm EPE foam/Al
Roll Dimension	1.2m*40m
Thickness	4mm
Weight	195g/m2
Emittance	0.03
Reflectivity	97%
R-Value	Up to R-11
Flame spread	25
Water Vapour Transmission	0.012g/m2 Kpa
Fungi Growth	No Fungi
Corrosion	Doesn't generate

Q:The roof does not have fillet under tiles, our house tends to be very cold and we want to remove the insulation and put a knew one, will our house be warm? any tips and advice.thank you for your time: i guess u mean attic insulation, it all depends on the type of ins u have, but why remove it ?, just add more on top..i'm not sure where ur located, the amt of ins depends on ur climate...here in Ontario, Canada, the code req's R40 for attics...but R32 is just as efficient

Q:I am specifically considering the re-roofing of a an older home where rafters were made with 2x4 or 2x6 and the rafter space (and possibly the attic space) does not allow sufficient space for insulation and proper ventilation behind the insulation. The old layers of roofing have to be removed in any event. At this point I am considering applying insulation boards on the existing sheathing and then a new layer of sheathing before the new roofing material. (similar to a SIP: structural insulated panel) The two issues I am concerned with is that the insulation can act as a vapor barrier. Would condensation potentially rot the lower sheathing. How is this avoided in SIP roofing panels? The second issue may be with fire regulations.: The sip panels are vented depending on what thickness over all that you want. The last ones I used had 4 inches of rigid foam board then on top of that had 3" strips every 16" an inch thick which created an airspace. On top was 5/8 Osb. To create an affective air flow the fascia cannot plane through with the plywood at the bottom but fall just short of the 1" space. To cap it a oversized vented drip edge is used. You must also have a ridge vent for proper flow. These panels can near 100$. You can do it your own way like I do when building log cabins by laying 2" foam down first then lay 2x4 16 on center on top then finally your plywood. If you use CDX instead of Osb it will outlast it by 100%. Rigid foam insulation is not like batt-faced. Rfboard ins. Is used in boat hulls and even after being submerged for long periods of time will return to its original density and r-value. For obvious reasons batt ins. Will not. You won't have a moisture problem as long as you don't have a venting problem. If you are using high hat lighting don't let the cans touch your rigid ins. Tuck batt in softly around them TAKE THE PAPER OFF! By code if you have an interior wall 10or more ft. It must have a fireblock, simply a 2x4 turned flat between the studs. On your roof the ceiling you see inside, (most likely 7/8 tongue and groove boards) passes as the same. Good luck!

Q:Does snow on the roof help or hurt my heating bill?: Yes, it does. It also shows that you are not losing heat and that you are well insulated.

Q:How much insulation is required in a house roof in new York ?: The US Dept of Energy provides online calculators to answer your question based on your zip code.

Q:I am purchasing a mobile home with a shingled roof. The shingles need to be replaced (&gt;15yrs old) and with the cost of heating going up each day I thought I would added some of that 2&quot; thick rigid insulation. I would place this right on top of the existing roof and then place the firring strips for the metal roof right on top of the rigid insulation panels (which are 4x8'). By using 3&quot; galvanized sheet rock screws I will get a good solid attachment. Then I will put the metal roofing on to the firring strips as normal. Does anyone see any downside to doing this? Has anyone tried this before?: I agree with the soundness of every part of your plan EXCEPT not removing the original shingle roof. The shingle roof is already at the end of its usable life. There’s no benefit to covering up old problems, and they will most likely affect the durability of the new roof. Plus, removing the old roof gives you the opportunity to inspect and repair any issues with the roofing deck. Your new insulation and metal roof will attach better and perform better by removing the old shingle roof.

Q:I've found lots of building forums and general &quot;building advice&quot; columns that go over very high-level pros/cons to choosing roofing material and insulation options, but I want a site where I can see hard costs of ordering each of the materials so I don't have to call up a ton of contractors or dealers. Does such a comparison site exist? Everyone offers quotes, but that takes too much time to apply for quotes to every dealer.I'm specifically interested in knowing what green options I can afford (cotton batting vs. formaldehyde-free fiberglass, etc.).: i could propose the felt. I rather have heard the two execs and cons with regard to the extra moderen man made underlay, and that i'm no longer inspired. I consistently get rid of the previous roofing, positioned #30 felt down, positioned a 1x4 batten down, and positioned my steel on that. I additionally want the three' huge roofing

Q:p/t deck on a commercial rubber roof do we need closed cell insulation under deck to protect rubber?: Membrane roofs should not have any sharp edges putting pressure on it. Even a flat square board will sink into the material and the edges are where the problem begins. We put layers of thick tar pads 3/4" under the feet of the air handlers years ago and still no problem.

Q:The attic was converted into two rooms and I want to add insulation but the space between the ceiling of the rooms and the roof is about 5 inches? How should I do this?: There are closed-cell expanding foam insulation materials that can be installed through rather small holes in the ceiling. The advantage of this material is that it also serves as a vapor-barrier - a critical function in your case. Not cheap, but very effective. Make sure you install roof vents to prevent excessive heat from developing above the insulation - but with foam, this requirement is far less onerous than with blown in or batt insulation.

Q:Foam and the new building technolodgy's are coming to New Orleans. The rebuilding is causing New Orleans to be the &quot;Greenest City in America&quot;. Energy Efficiency and the proper buiilding techniques tak hold.: First, "green" building is not technically defined as far as the construction industry is concerned. i.e. anyone can call their products "green" until the parameters are set up to strickly define what is "green" and what is not. To date, it's been more of a marketing strategy than anything. (Unless this has changed in recent months) I'm glad to hear New Orleans is taking the right path in rebuilding the place! Hope to get back down there soon.

Q:do i leave air gap in attic roof for insulation?: The best way to set up an attic is to put a vapor barrier under the rafters (before nailing on the gyproc), then put the insulation (fibreglas batts) between the rafters to full depth (10 or 12 inches). Soffit vents are installed under the eaves at the sides of the roof, and gable vents are placed near the peak of the roof at the ends. This allows for airflow resulting from convection, particularly important in the summer months to remove heat buildup in the attic. If the insulation is adequate, it will not only isolate this heat buildup from the inside of the house in summer, but will prevent heat loss to the attic in winter. (The airflow in winter will be minimal, but will remove any moisture/condensation that might collect otherwise.)

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