Thin tile Travertine series, T-BROWN System 1

Thin tile Travertine series, T-BROWN

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Loading Port:: China Main Port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: -

Supply Capability:: 50000SQM per month m²/month

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Specification:

Serie: Travertine

Item No.: T-BROWN

Size: 600× 1200mm

Thickness: 4.8mm

Surface: Polished/ Matt

Water absorption rate: ≤ 0.07 %

Breaking strength: 910 N

Modulus of rupture: 75 MPa

Abrasive resistance: Grade 6

Thin tile Travertine series, T-BROWN

Effect picture:

Thin tile Travertine series, T-BROWN

Packing details:

Size(mm)	PCS/CTN	M²/CTN	KGS/CTN	SQM/20'GP
600×600-Soluble salt	4	1.44	28	1382.4
600×600-Double loading	4	1.44	30	1296
800×800	3	1.92	50	1036.8
1200×600	2	1.44	45	864
1200×600-Thin tile	3	2.16	22.5	2592

BREIF INTRODUCTION:

1. High Quality:

Grade AAA+, first choice always.The product quality strictly follow the ISO quality
standard. They all pass and even exceed the national and international standard.

2. Competitive Price:

We have our own factory located in Nanzhuang, Foshan. With 5 production lines, daily
output reaches around 10,000 sqm. Therefore we can offer our clients the very best prices.
Regarding required quantity, discounts are offered.

3. 10 Years Professional Experience:

We have been specialize in manufacturing and exporting tiles for 15 years. Our products can meet different import requirements of different countries. SGS, BV, SONCAP, SASO, CIQ, CE, SNI, INEN, etc can be handled well.

4. Modern Fashionable designs:

New and fashionable designs are promoted and updated periodically, which will be
fresh and fashionable revolutions.

FAQ and Investment:

Q: When can you deliver the goods?
A: If stock is available, we can deliver goods within 10 days. If no stock, that would be 20-25 days after receiving deposit.

Q: How about your payment terms?
A: Our payment terms is by T/T, 30% as deposit, balance by T/T or L/C before shipment.

Q: What is your main market?
A: Our main market is Middle East, Southeast Asia, South America, Africa, European Countries.

Q: We are importing to Egypt, can you provide CIQ certificate?
A: Our company have been in tiles export for many years. We are experienced in dealing with CIQ, SASO, BV, SGS, SNI, SONCAP certificate and etc.

Q: I went and removed 3 ft of tiles from the side of the bath tub starting at the bottom. The tiles had the cement on it so it came off the wall exposing the wood the to the house and i saw the water damage to the wood. How do i patch up the wall? Do I use plywood and than cement it and than add the new tiles?: If I understand the problem correctly, it sounds like you have water damage inside you wall. You first need to find out what caused that damage. If you repair the wall without finding the water leak, it will happen again. If the area was dry rot and it didn't sem like there was currently water there, then it is likely safe to fix. Carefully remove tiles until you no longer see any water damage to the wood. I'm not sure what wood is there. If its plywood, replace it with a like thickness (most of the time today, they use drywall, but its a special kind that is usually green that's made for bathrooms and moist areas). Before replacing the tiles, clean them up and remove any old grout from the edges. Be careful as the tile are very brittle and break easy. There are a number of bathroom tile type caulks that can adhere the tile to the wood. I suggest going to somewhere like Lowe's or Home Depot or a similar store and ask someone in the plumbing dept or the paint dept what kind of caulk to use to attach tile to wood. Apply the tile to the wall using the caulk. Now you need to re-grout the seams. Buy grout and apply it in all the seams. Let it completely dry (read the box but most say at least 24 to 48 hrs to completely cure) then after its cured, apply grout sealer over the top of the grout seams.

Q: my husband put in tile in the motel i work at and it is ceramic tile and some of the rooms are popping up up can you tell me why? by the way could it be the climate i live in florida!: I would say either the wrong substrate was used. Substrate is the material directly under the tile. Chances are he installed the tile over another floor material that was not suitable for tile. Cement board is the most widely used substrate, but it needs to be screwed down properly so it does not move at all. If the substrate moves, then the tile will also work loose after stepping on it which forces it to move up/down. If he applied thin set over existing ceramic tile that was not cleaned, the thin set probably did not stick. Pull up a pc. of loose tile - is the thin set or other adhesive still stuck on the back of the tile? Sometimes the wrong adhesive won't stick to the back of the ceramic tiles. Humidity won't affect the tile if it was installed correctly.

Q: We have a fireplace in our lower level that is outdated, dingy old masonry and doesn‘t fit with the rest of our updates down there. I would like to tile over it and have it ready for use before our family comes over for Thanksgiving. What is the best method?: You can attach tile directly to masonry, it has been done all over the world for centuries (Italy, Spain, Middle East all use tile on the exterior of buildings...) I would assume normal thin-set mortar would work, but I believe it would depend on the exact type of masonry- concrete block or clay brick. A thicker adhesive bed will likely be necessary to smooth over the rough surface, but because of the relatively porous surface of most types of masonry your bond should be excellent. My only word of caution would be if you have any cracks in the masonry. Make sure they are not active (widening and narrowing), which may occur with temperature and humidity swings. Either way, you may choose to weld the crack with epoxy to prevent any crack movements that may telegraph through your tile and crack it. HTH, Andrew Kester, PE Structural Engineer Florida (..and a tile afficianado..)

Q: How to choose the difference between tile types: 1, glazed tiles Glazed tiles are the bricks of the brick surface treated by glazing. Glazed tiles according to the different materials, divided into ceramic glazed tiles and porcelain glazed tiles. Ceramic glazed tiles are made from clay, with high water absorption and relatively low strength. The main feature is that the back color is red and the porcelain glazed tiles are made from porcelain clay with low water absorption and relatively strong Higher, the main feature is the back of the color is gray. Glazed tiles are the most common brick decoration, not only rich in color, and anti-fouling ability, is widely used in wall and floor decoration.

Q: I poured bleach on the tiles in my bathroom and there was an emergency and had to leave home. When I got back the tiles were stained a yellowish color and it used to be smooth but now it‘s all rough like sandpaper. HELP!: I don't know what type of tiles you have, but if it doesn't have a glazed finish, you may not be able to do much about it. Travertine is a popular natural limestone that is very popular these days and is frequently used in bathrooms. The only drawback is that it is a soft and porous material, so it is much easier to damage that a glazed tile or a natural polished marble. The good news is that it is relatively inexpensive and easy to replace. Call a good tile man and get a quote to refinish and a quote to replace the damaged pieces.

Q: i have just bought a house and my ceiling tiles needs cleaning. i would like to know if anyone out there knows what i can use to clean them. the ceiling tiles has dust but also has mildew on some of them. i don‘t want to replace them, i just want to clean them for now. thank you everyone.: depends on what the tiles are made out of you idiot....

Q: I would like to glue it to the tile that is already there, except remove a few that are coming loose.: Sure you can lay linoleum over the tile, but instead of removing the loose tile I suggest you glue them back. Liquid Nails will do the job. By all means ware a mask while working with the asbestos tile. Be careful about what type linoleum you buy because it can have some asbestos in it, but not at a hazardous amount. Go to the web page below its very informative. Ever who you get the linoleum from make sure you tell them what you are applying it to. Be sure to ask about what type of notched trowel to use and the mystic. If there are large seams between the tile make sure you get enough mystic down into them so you want see their indention's when the mystic drys and shrinks. To really be safe cover over the tile with 1/4 or 3/8 inch ply then put your linoleum down.

Q: im looking for tips about PORCELAIN floor tiles.I read everywhere they can look like marble but without the maintenance issues, plus it is a harder material.I like the polished finishes .. and saw some samples of them.. rectified porcelain.I can‘t find much info on the net about its shape uniformity, but looks like they are kind of not so squared?I would like them big.. 24 inches, and spaced at the minimum which i think it is 1/8. But a few persons told me that is too close for porcelain and i should go with marble?The problem is that marble is much more expensive... so i don‘t know what to do.Are there brands of porcelain tiles known for their good uniformity... how should i shop for them.,? i don‘t know what to look for. please help.Please do not suggest any other type of flooring... im not interested. If porcelain is always not uniform, then what would the minimum spacing between tiles be so they look fine?Thanks a lot.: I'm not sure what you're looking at but all the porcelain tiles I've seen are square. All square. Very square. There should be no uniformity issues whatsoever. Go to a home improvement store and take a look. The tile type really has very little effect on spacing. However if you want 24 tiles I would suggest 1/4 grout lines at least. It will be extremely difficult to maintain a straight even grout line If you go 1/8. Imagine, if for some reason one tile was out of square a little or slightly offline (which does happen) the grout line would disappear completely. The grout would also be more likely to break if there was any movement in the floor. If you insist on 1/8 spacing, it can be done, but the results will be almost definitely poor.

Q: I have a tile shower that is looking rather shabby. I‘ve been considering ripping the tile out and re-doing it, but I was given the suggestion of professionally refinishing the tile. Has anyone ever done this? What is involved? I‘m okay with the tile, but I‘d like it to look nicer than it does with out spending a ton of money.: I really have no clue

Q: i have vinyl tile in my dinning room(high traffic) its new but its not brillant ,and i saw a mantenance guy last night in wallmart using a buffer machine to pollish the tile..my question what kind of pad the used?they use any quimical with this pad?..how often this treatment its needed?: Getting the old tiles up would be a chore. as quickly as you have them bumped off and the floor prepped for the vinyl tiles, mark out the development with chalk line. consistently attempt and have all your cuts on the least considered nook or wall. additionally degree for the midsection of the room and commence there so with any luck the tiles are almost even on the partitions. you will additionally choose for to get vinyl adhesive. The tiles won't arise without it, yet they do tend to slip around whilst setting up them. And a foul seem or nook can throw off the finished factor and seem adverse. in simple terms wait and notice and make the effort.

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