• Thin tile Sand series, SA-BROWN System 1
  • Thin tile Sand series, SA-BROWN System 2
  • Thin tile Sand series, SA-BROWN System 3
Thin tile Sand series, SA-BROWN

Thin tile Sand series, SA-BROWN

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Loading Port:
China Main Port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
50000SQM per month m²/month

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Specification:

Serie: SAND

Item No.: SA-BROWN

Size: 600× 1200mm

Thickness: 4.8mm

Surface: Polished/ Matt

Water absorption rate: ≤ 0.07 %

Breaking strength: 910 N

Modulus of rupture: 75 MPa

Abrasive resistance: Grade 6





Effect Picture:







Packing details:

Size(mm)PCS/CTNM2/CTNKGS/CTNSQM/20'GP
600×600-Soluble salt41.44281382.4
600×600-Double loading41.44301296
800×80031.92501036.8
1200×60021.4445864
1200×600-Thin tile32.1622.52592




BREIF INTRODUCTION:

1. High Quality:

Grade AAA+, first choice always.The product quality strictly follow the ISO quality
standard. They all pass and even exceed the national and international standard.

2. Competitive Price:

We have our own factory located in Nanzhuang, Foshan. With 5 production lines, daily
output reaches around 10,000 sqm. Therefore we can offer our clients the very best prices.
Regarding required quantity, discounts are offered.

3. 10 Years Professional Experience:

We have been specialize in manufacturing and exporting tiles for 15 years. Our products can meet different import requirements of different countries. SGS, BV, SONCAP, SASO, CIQ, CE, SNI, INEN, etc can be handled well.

4. Modern Fashionable designs:

New and fashionable designs are promoted and updated periodically, which will be
fresh and fashionable revolutions.



FAQ and Investment:

Q: When can you deliver the goods?
A: If stock is available, we can deliver goods within 10 days. If no stock, that would be 20-25 days after receiving deposit.

Q: How about your payment terms?
A: Our payment terms is by T/T, 30% as deposit, balance by T/T or L/C before shipment.

Q: What is your main market?
A: Our main market is Middle East, Southeast Asia, South America, Africa, European Countries.

Q: We are importing to Egypt, can you provide CIQ certificate?
A: Our company have been in tiles export for many years. We are experienced in dealing with CIQ, SASO, BV, SGS, SNI, SONCAP certificate and etc.



Q:We have cement tiles in our apartment. To wash them, I just use liquid soap and water; I don‘t want to use toxic products. The tiles are dull-looking, though. How do I get them to shine?
This is a great homemade tile and grout cleaner that is safe for frequent use. It also works well for removing soap scum and cleaning tile counters. 1/2 cup of baking soda 1/3 cup of ammonia 1/4 cup of white vinegar 7 cups of water subtract Combine all the ingredients in a spray bottle and shake well to mix. Do not use this in conjunction with chlorine bleach or where chlorine bleach has been used. (Never mix ammonia and bleach containing products.) Simply spray it on and then wipe with a damp sponge or cloth. No rinsing required.
Q:I just finished my bathroom but when i used the oil based kilz there was a little spray back that landed on the tile floor.
Depending on the type of tile you might be able to use a sharp knife (exacto or paring knife) and gently remove the spots. If you have any kind of ceramic tile that would work (in my experience) except perhaps on the grouted areas. If you have grout and the Kilz is in/on the grout you might have to actually scrape some of the grout off and then reseal the grout. Good luck. It's laborious work but it should work. If you have linoleum tile I wouldn't do that because it might remove the finish. The next time you go to the paint dept. at the store ask them how to do it if you haven't solved the problem
Q:How easy is it to tile a kitchen floor. Plus would you lay the tiles directly onto the concrete sub floor or lay concrete boards or chipboards underneath. I would also like to continue this to the hallway and under stairs. Thanks.
Depending on the age of the cement subfloor, it would be my first choice, even if I had to prep it first to insure a good bond. Definitely not cement board, it's not designed or engineered to be walked on, the results downstream would be disastrous. There is a grade of board specifically called underlayment, and it would be my second choice. It needs to be nailed down to cement subfloor about every 6 inches in both directions, very tedious. Not so bad on wood, can be screwed down.This is not hard job, just hard work. Hands and knees, get up to cut a piece, back down to hands and knees. Spread mortar or adhesive, set tile, check for level, spread - set - level, over and over. And level in both directions, North - South, and East - West, and level from tile to tile as well. Really good tile setters make very good money. Very important for you to know: floor tile is thicker than wall tile. It should be 3/8 inch minimum, or 9 mm. Wall tile is generally thinner, and will crack under the stress of weight on it.
Q:i want to tile my house, i also want to pay less than a dollar per square foot for the materials. on top of that i want 16 tile... i know these deal exhist but i dont know where to look... please help
Home Depot or Lowes..but remember if you pay 69 a sqaure foot,,,,which is cheap........it is seconds,some will be uneven,but it is a good price
Q:I‘m installing new tile in my bathroom and had a few questions.1. I understand that I‘m supposed to remove the toilet prior to laying the tile. So I remove the toilet, lay new tile, and then put the toilet on top of the tile? Does this mean that the toilet will sit on the tile? If so, won‘t there be a very little gap where the tile and toilet meet? Are you supposed to seal this gap? Or, do you cut the tile around the shape of the bottom of the toilet and tile around it?2. Same question with the vanity. I‘m replacing my old vanity. Do I have to remove the old vanity, lay tile in the whole area where the old vanity was, and then install the new vanity on top of the tile? Again, what about the small gap? Does it need to be sealed? What do you seal it with?3. How do you remove the old vanity? Do you simply disconnect the plumbing, remove the screws holding it to the wall, and pry it from the wall?Any comments, suggestions, or advice are appreciated.
I should point out, that it is not recommended to caulk around the base of the toilet. this is because, if the wax seal were ever to start leaking, the caulk would contain it under the toilet and you would never know it was leaking until the floor rotted and you and the toilet fall through into the living room. No body wants to see that!!
Q:I like the original quarry tiled floor from our 60‘s kitchen, but they are quite badly stained. I can‘t pretend they have any historic value, or even were particularly well laid, so on balance should I1) Replace with new tiles, perhaps up to a higher standard2) Get a specialist to restore them to something approaching their original stateWhich will cost more, and what would you do?
My opinion? Replace. I believe you would not be happy with the restoration since they were not laid properly in the first place. Doesn't matter which costs more if. in the end, you are unhappy with the results.
Q:I have a few chips in my ceramic floor tile. It‘s a light natural color tile, so the chipped part is dark and noticeable. Is there anything that you can put in the chips to cover them up?
This Site Might Help You. RE: ceramic floor tile chips? I have a few chips in my ceramic floor tile. It‘s a light natural color tile, so the chipped part is dark and noticeable. Is there anything that you can put in the chips to cover them up?
Q:Laying 225 Sq ft of 18x18 tile on flat slab. Using Ultraflex II thinset (white) w/ 1/16 spacers. Cannot find a 3/4 trowel to apply just to floor...can I use 1/2 sq notch trowel if I apply to floor and back of tile as well when I set them???
Your okorder
Q:I laid a new porcelain tile floor in my bathroom. Old linoleum tile floor was in good shape so I just laid right over the top of it. All turned out well except around the toilet. Two of the tile cracked when I screwed the toilet back down to the floor. Obviously I‘ll have to pull the toilet again, remove cracked tiles and start over....but how to I avoid the cracks again?
Did you put a bead of plumber's putty on the bottom of the toilet prior to installing it? Porcelain toilet to ceramic tile needs cushion between them. Buy some plumber's putty and roll out a worm shape. Place it on the bottom of the toilet and keep doing this until the entire outter rim is covered. You know, by removing your toilet you will need to install a new wax seal, never re-use the old one.
Q:The ceramic tile in my shower is looking really shabby and I‘d like to re-do it in subway tiles on the walls and mini hexagonal tiles on the floor. Has anyone ever re-tiled an old shower? What should I keep in mind? It is a single story house that is about 30 years old and I beleive it is all the original stuff.
I have retiled a couple of showers, and this is basically what you're in for: You need to remove all of the old tile. This could require removing the grout, but you may be able to use a scraper and get the old tiles off without removing the grout. Then you will be replaceing the sheet rock that was under the old tiles (make sure to use green board it's water resistant). This will give you a new and smooth surface to put up new tile. Then you need to get your tile, grout, plastic t-shaped spacers, and fast setting tile mortar. You can buy pre-mixed mortar, or mix your own (pre-mixed is easier, but a little more expensive). Use a mortar trowel (the kind with the saw toother edges) to spread a thin layer of mortar evenly on a section of wall. Then place the tile and use the plastic t-shaped spacers to keep the seperated, and even. After the tile has had time to set (the next day in most cases) mix up your grout, and apply it to the edges of the tiile. This will be messy, but don't worry, you can wipe the grout right off of the tile surface. After the grout dries, you want to use a grout sealant to make sure the grout is resistant to water. Unsealed grout will deteriorate, and also grow mold and mildew. hope that helped... it can be a bit challenging if it's your first time, but doing it yourself can also save you hundreds in labor costs.

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