Thin tile Cement series, C-GRAY

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Loading Port:: China Main Port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: -

Supply Capability:: 50000SQM per month m²/month

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Specification:

Serie: Cement

Item No.: C-GRAY

Size: 600× 1200mm

Thickness: 4.8mm

Surface: Polished/ Matt

Water absorption rate: ≤ 0.07 %

Breaking strength: 910 N

Modulus of rupture: 75 MPa

Abrasive resistance: Grade 6

Picture:

Thin tile Cement series, C-GRAY

Packing details:

Size(mm)	PCS/CTN	M²/CTN	KGS/CTN	SQM/20'GP
600×600-Soluble salt	4	1.44	28	1382.4
600×600-Double loading	4	1.44	30	1296
800×800	3	1.92	50	1036.8
1200×600	2	1.44	45	864
1200×600-Thin tile	3	2.16	22.5	2592

BREIF INTRODUCTION:

1. High Quality:

Grade AAA+, first choice always.The product quality strictly follow the ISO quality
standard. They all pass and even exceed the national and international standard.

2. Competitive Price:

We have our own factory located in Nanzhuang, Foshan. With 5 production lines, daily
output reaches around 10,000 sqm. Therefore we can offer our clients the very best prices.
Regarding required quantity, discounts are offered.

3. 10 Years Professional Experience:

We have been specialize in manufacturing and exporting tiles for 15 years. Our products can meet different import requirements of different countries. SGS, BV, SONCAP, SASO, CIQ, CE, SNI, INEN, etc can be handled well.

4. Modern Fashionable designs:

New and fashionable designs are promoted and updated periodically, which will be
fresh and fashionable revolutions.

FAQ and Investment:

Q: When can you deliver the goods?
A: If stock is available, we can deliver goods within 10 days. If no stock, that would be 20-25 days after receiving deposit.

Q: How about your payment terms?
A: Our payment terms is by T/T, 30% as deposit, balance by T/T or L/C before shipment.

Q: What is your main market?
A: Our main market is Middle East, Southeast Asia, South America, Africa, European Countries.

Q: We are importing to Egypt, can you provide CIQ certificate?
A: Our company have been in tiles export for many years. We are experienced in dealing with CIQ, SASO, BV, SGS, SNI, SONCAP certificate and etc.

Q: Tiles are divided into several categories, respectively, which are?: According to the process points, can be divided into quintana brick, polished tiles, tiles, ceramic tiles, antique tiles, glazed tiles, in which tiles and polished tiles are all bricks. Polished tiles are divided into seepage tiles, powder, polycrystalline powder; polished tiles and Asian throw; According to the use of points, can be divided into inside and outside the wall tiles, indoor and outdoor tiles, square brick, supermarket bricks, pool tiles, etc. There are many kinds of tiles, the key is to see from which angle to points.

Q: What should you pay attention to when installing tiles?: Decoration is sure to follow the procedures, the installation of the tiles to the base to do real, the mortar filled, so uniform.

Q: I‘m installing 13x13 floor tile on a slab. Any tips on how to do it right: If your not overly familiar with doing tile a diagonal isn t the easiest to start on. Lay out and proper tools are a big help in your preplanning. Right size trowel and large enough wet saw and had cutter is a must. Get the longest straight site line and split the room in 1/2 with a chalk line. Lay tile back to the wall and figure the size of pc(pcs) you need. You can cut a few of these pcs as a starting point. Knowing you split the room you should be equal when you get to the other side. A perfect straight edge will help keep your lines straight. Use this on all sides as you build out from that wall and lay as though your doing a straight lay just that your on a 45 degree. Or if you are doing an open ended area , you can cut several tiles in 1/2 and work back. A bit trickier but overall look is better. Don t cut tiles directly in 1/2, you must cut just off center if this is a starting point. Very hard to do and takes experience. Any specific questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL

Q: I need matching vinyl tiles for my kitchen floor. they‘re about 18x18 inch. I only need about 6 of them. is it possible to have a company match the design of tile and custom make me new ones, or a company that can match them?: It's always cheaper to re-tile then try and match what you already have.

Q: Home decoration with what tiles better: Research a lot of tiles, online tattoo comments brand tiles are: the famous Dongpeng many Shandong Zibo OEM turn, just advertising to do bright! Shop out is not smooth! Marco Polo also has a lot of branded brick! Comments that gold pottery is rubbish, poor service! Commented that the generals serious uneven, I really experience from the physical shop what is the stone arch bridge! Commented that Samit was serious in the drum, I also deliberately in the physical store is indeed the case, I have been set and back! Online comment Nobel is not flat, this I did not see! Gold rudder is expensive! ... ... I want to buy a brand name of the number of friends to the brand Tucao finished, not scolded like only Hongyu and crown beads, so I deliberately went to the two stores looked, really fabulous, but hit Hongyu sound Crisp, may be good bricks, but the price is very expensive, in our reputation there is no crown beads, so into the crown beads shop, but also very expensive. I deliberately poured the floor of the small floor of the brick, actually did not infiltrate a minute, so I decided to buy beads, but the price seems to be as expensive as Hongyu, only buy crown beads tiles and toilet bricks, to save money, kitchen brick to buy A miscellaneous brand. Hope that the crown will not let me down!

Q: ive never tiled anything before. i was thinking of replacing our old tiles around the fireplace and puttnig in slate ones. i am wondering if its a bigger project than it seems. will i have to remove the mantle to do it. is it harder to tile something on the wall or fireplace than the floor? should i just seek a professional or is it easy?thanks: I don't know about horrible but certainly impractical; unless the fireplace is merely decorative; or an electric one. TILE is usually fired at approx. 2000 degrees; essentially creating glass. It's highly unlikely you'd ever have a fireplace fire get that hot...Hopefully. The issue is more that constant stress on the tile in heating and cooling; and the effect on any mortar you choose. Beyond that is the issue of the tile being hidden most often; and the need to clean it often to be able to view it when no fire is present. Fireplaces are crafted using Brick, that allows no such effects from temp variations, and offers some level of insulation against the heat produced within the confines of the fireplace. Certainly you might consider tiling a hearth; or creating a hearth that you can tile; but it seems a bit defeating to tile into a fireplace. Tile; especially floor type; are created through different heat ranges and substances; to be graded in durability. Assume something like A being the least durable, and D being the most durable. That equates to normal traffic and wear. I'll assume someone will tell you; Sure; there are heat resistant tiles and mortars but I'll go back to my notion of the aesthetics and ask why bother? Steven Wolf

Q: Hi, I just wanted to know if Ceramic tiles are better than stone tiles? When we signed a contract for a new house, they offered us Stone tiles, but now they are calling us and telling that they do not offer stone tiles instead ceramic tiles are now standard. I wanted to know which one is better and why?: Ceramic tile is cheaper than stone but we have installed ceramic or porcelain tiles in all bathrooms for the ease of upkeep. Stone does look richer but it needs to be sealed at least once a year maybe more. The sealing part is easy but the stone tile needs to be completely clean first. That is the 'hard work' part. Ceramic tile will hold up to almost anything in a bathroom and the grout is the only thing that needs sealing. (You'd probably have grout to seal with the stone too) If you signed for stone, I'd make sure that they are going to give you some kind of refund for the difference of the cost. They are saving a a few bucks here so make them pass it on.

Q: i need to know if there are any ways to remove concrete that has already set, from tile: The 1 st 3 answers and you ll take the glaze off the tile too!!! The 4 th answer I don t know about even being in the tile business for 20 years I ve never used that acid.. You don t say if its cement/cement or the cement based thinset you use to put down the tile with.. If it is thinset then you can gently scrape off excess and wash it off with a couple washing .. There is grout haze removers and 1 that I ve used made by Hydroment called Remove that does work well GL

Q: I am in the process of installing a slate floor in my mudroom. The durock has been laid, and the tiles cut and sealed, and I‘m ready to start using the medium set to secure the tiles in place, but as I‘ve never laid slate (or any tile) before, I have some questions. 1. The tiles are in place now how I want them, do I have to take up the tiles row by row before I start mortaring them in place, or can I do 1 or 2 tiles at a time?2. I laid the tiles out starting from the center and working outwards. When I lay the tiles in place do I again start at the center, or do I start from the edges, or doesn‘t it matter?3. What is the best way to prevent lippage? As this is slate there is a good amount of variation. Do I just back butter each tile so that it is as high as the highest tile in the room? How do I manage to do that properly?: Others might disagree, but here's what I suggest: 1. I take up at least a few rows of tile at a time, carefully stacking them in order. 2. Layout should always be done using a center line. There are options for the installation: - If you carefully snap or draw lines for each row on the Durorock and do not use spacers you can start wherever you want, for example against a far wall so that you don't work your way into a corner. - If you only use a center line and rely upon spacers, then you need to start at the center. Tiles tend to drift from each other slightly when you install using spacers, so if you start in the center and work in both directions the net drift toward the edge will be half as much as it would if you work from one edge all the way to the other. - I always draw lines for each row when I do a diagonal installation. I install the longest row first and the work away from it toward the opposite corners. 3. Once I mix a batch of thinset, I don't want to fuss much with tile thickness. So before I even lay the slate tiles out on the floor I sort them from thickest to thinnest. Individual tiles often vary in thickness from one corner to the other; others might have consistent thickness but be dished (not flat). These tiles are candidates to be cut for edge pieces, or they might not be worth using at all. Anyway, I layout the tiles from thickest on one side of the room to thinnest on the other and only need to butter a thin corner of that occasional irregular tile that is pretty enough to be worth the hassle. 4. See my answer to 2.

Q: can you tile an old brick fireplacegt;?would it look stupid?: Are you still planning on using the fireplace? You will need to check with the manufacturer of the tile that it can withstand the heat. If you're tiling the exterior of the fireplace, make sure you select a corner bead for the exposed edge where the fireplace opening meets the wall plane. Installing tile over a fireplace is not a big deal if you're putting it on the wall plane. Whether it looks stupid or not depends on the type of tile you use and the overall color scheme. It could definitely work.

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