• Thermocouple Bright wire  (Type P&P)  a quality System 1
Thermocouple Bright wire  (Type P&P)  a quality

Thermocouple Bright wire (Type P&P) a quality

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Shanghai
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Min Order Qty:
100000 m
Supply Capability:
1000000 m/month

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NiCr-NiSi (Type K) thermocouple bright wire 
Nicrosil-Nisil (Type N) thermocouple bright wire
Cu- CuNi (Type T) thermocouple bright wire 
NiCr- CuNi(Type E) thermocouple bright wire 
Fe- CuNi(Type J) thermocouple bright wire 

Type

Standard

Operating temperature   range

Tolerance

Long term

Short term

Grade

Temperature range

Tolerance

Type K

GB/T2614
  K

1200

1300

I

-40~1100

±1.5℃ OR±0.4%t

II

-40~1300

±2.5℃ OR±0.75%t

Type N

GB/T17615
  N

1200

1300

I

-40~1100

±1.5℃ OR±0.4%t

II

-40~1300

±2.5℃ OR±0.75%t

Type E

GB/T4993
  E

750

900

I

-40~800

±1.5℃ OR±0.4%t

II

-40~900

±2.5℃ OR±0.75%t

Type J

GB/T4994
  J

600

750

I

0~750

±1.5℃ OR±0.4%t

II

±2.5℃ OR±0.75%t

Type T

GB/T2903
  T

300

350

I

-40~350

±0.5℃ OR±0.4%t

II

±1℃ OR±0.75%t

III

-200~40

±1℃ OR±1.5%t

    * Operating temperature range (): KNET Ø3.2mm, T Ø2.0mm


Q: I have taken out the rotating speaker from an old organ that I wish to externalize to another organ.It has its own transformer (I thinklittle metal-layered box with a wire core in the middle) labeled 115v 60hz. i cut the wires from it that went to the main power supply for the organ. What I am wondering is, can I just solder a plug onto the ends of the power wires and plug it in? Eventually I would install a switch of some sort. Anyhow, because it has the little 115V thingy, how can I plug this thing in?
Nomad is wrong. US house voltages are 240 and 120 AC fed from a 480 xformer, not current. All you have to do is put a plug on the socalled 115 volt input. Down the road, you can add a switch if you wish or even wire it direct into the organ.
Q: I need this for homework :(
It's cheaper than silver and conducts electricity almost as well. Jesse Willms
Q: I don't really have much detail but my mum asked me to look it up so if you know what shes going on about give me an answerThanks in advance :D
Is it possible she's looking for ampacity ratings? The link below lists the current-carrying capacity, or ampacity, of wire against diameter. In terms of current carrying, thicker is always better. In terms of cost, thinner is better. A household branch should be rated for at least 15 A. Appliances may use 20-30 A or more.
Q: How many squares of wires are used in ten
The following is an infrared camera, infrared light is turned on and off when the current (voltage is 12V). I would like to use a power supply, even a 1 minute 4 power distribution line; and then were connected with four 20-meter video extension line; then were followed by the following four cameras; Will the 2A12V power supply can be used? If not, how much power? Thank you! More
Q: I will be installing spray in foam in the wall cavities and am wondering if I should have all of the wiring replaced (electrical outlets and the such) before. I've read it's difficult to replace wiring once the foam has become rigid. My fear is that a wire will short and the electrical outlet will become useless (due to previously stated problem). Any information is greatly appreciated.
What material is your wiring made of? Aluminum(silver and brittle) or copper. Are you sprayng in expanding foam or just foam insulation? How many breakers in panel? How big is your home? Answering these questions will give me idea if you need to redo electrical -------------------------------------- Not sure what the wiring is, whatever was used at that time House is 2400 sq ft I believe the easiest is the retro foam type, although not from that company 40 breakers, 34 currently in use Would replacing all outlets with GFI's be a cheaper way of protecting the wires? ------------------------ You need to find out if its aluminum or copper. alum was used in the 70's and I suggest removing it if it is. its brittle and can have problems in the future. the lumex will say if its copper or aluminum on it try and look near panel for this information Exterior only walls need the insulation so interior would be fine. All your outlets a 2 prong or 3 prong configuration in your house?
Q: 1 phase partial HP motor does the cap get wired to the line side of the circuit? I got a junk motor and table saw that was wired with a 2 conductor cable and the line/neutral was a maybe. When I replaced the cable and cleaned the start switch it now trips the breaker. I then reversed the line/ n connections and it hums but does not start. I cleaned the dust and have read to ground for a clean insulation. After 50 some years in the electrical industry, I now need to wire some motors internally rather than send 'em to the shop for a rewind. Thanks guys.
On all motors the Capacitor gos between the L1 and centrifugal (cut out)switch (which then gos to the start winding).In ac L1 and L2 are reversible toward the power source
Q: Hi, I am doing a sweep on my home and checking everything from structure to electrical,attic,etc.I found that I have maybe old knoband tube wiring.the home does have some upgraded romex outletsexisting.The funny looking wiring has what look like a white porcelain loooking gadjet that is round and has a nail sticking thru it and a piece of wire going into.The top knob just unscrews and acts as some sort of clamp,don't really know.Anyways,a wire has corroded(just my luck) and broke in to when I barely touch it and now some of my lights are not working.When the wires are touched back together the lights affected turn back on.Can I just retwist it together since there is a little slack and put a wire cap on it,or can I just pull out that line from whence it broke and add 14/2 romex or just a pigtail at the broke section? Some wiring in my home may be aluminum but copper color has that cloth around it and some has worn all the way off which I am thinking to wrap in electrical tape and not leave exposed? Thanks
Ken_ray, you, of course, are free to do as you please about your own property, as long as you don't get the gov't. involved, but I live in a house built in 1904 and it has quite a bit of ball and tube wiring that we use every day. As long as you don't overload those circuits, they will, most likely, serve you well for many years to come. However, if you're like a large portion of folks nowadays, who have to have every possible whistle and bell on every appliance they can find to add more and more load to our power supplies, then you might want to consider a complete upgrade, to a bigger panel and normal, CODE SAFE wiring. If it were mine, I'd find the breaker associated with that circuit, shut it down, strip off some insulation a ways back on both ends and install a new piece of #12 in between the two ends with a couple of good wire nuts, tape them up and call it good. It is, of course, as I said earlier, your call.
Q: How is the electrical wiring configuration for North America differs from that in Bratain/Western and Eastern Europe,Latin America Asia/Japan and Australia/Pacific?
The USA and most of North America uses 60 hertz and 120/240 volts. Most of the rest of the world uses 50 hertz and 240 volts. Small differences in voltage are common from place to place. Hertz or frequency might also vary a little.
Q: anything in particular to worry about? besides killing myself. I bought the plug w/ the 3 loose wires sticking out as well as the new hot water line and elbow to replace the current copper line. the middle one looks like the green (ground) but i can't tell which one is the black or white one, they all have metal tips. Also, do i have to have the little plastic tops to twist the wires together? or electrical tape sufficient?
If a 15 or 20 amp duplex receptacle is wired correctly, the neutral will be on the left(wide slot). hot on the right(narrow slot) equipment ground on the bottom. Your cord connections should match with thatBlack/hotwhite/neutralgreen
Q: And What do you do in case of a downed electrical wire?!HELP ME!!!!
Smoke Alarm Maintenance Tips: Test smoke alarms once a month by pushing the “test button.” Install new batteries at least once a year. Clean smoke alarms using a vacuum cleaner without removing the alarm’s cover. Replace smoke alarms every 10 years. For a downed electrical wire, call your power company.

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