ABC ( Aerial Bundled Cable,Service Drop )

ABC ( Aerial Bundled Cable,Service Drop )

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Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 m

Supply Capability:: 20000 m/month

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ABC,Aerial Bundled Cables,Service Drop

Duplex Service Drop ABC Cable used for overhead service applications such as street lighting,temporary service ,and so on
Primarily used for overhead service applications such as street lighting,outdoor lighting,and temporary service for constrction.To be used at cotages of 600V phase-to-phase or less and at conductor temperatures not to exceed 75oC for polyethylene insulated conductors or 90oC for crossliked polyethylene(XLPE) insulated conductors.
It meets or exceeds the following specifications:
1.Aluminum Wire,1350-H19 for Electrical Purposes.
2.Aluminum Conductors,Concentric-Lay-Stranded.
3.Aluminum Conductor,Concentric-Lay-Stranded,Coated Steel Reinforced(ACSR)
4.Concentric-Lay-Stranded 6201-T81 Conductors
5.Compressed Round Stranded Aluminum Conductors Using Single Input Wire.
It meets or exceeds all applicable requirements of ANSI/ICEA S-76-474

Cable Size	Conductor Diameter	Insulation Diameter	Support Core Size	Overall Diameter	Cable mass	Res. DC @ 20~C	Res. AC @ 90~C	Impedance	Symmetrical Current	Current Rating in Air
mm2	mm	mm	mm2	mm	kg/km	./km	./km	./km	kA	Amps
25	6.5	9.5	54.6	22.9	420	1.2	1.54	1.541	2.3	105
35	7.3	10.5	54.6	25.3	555	0.868	1.11	1.117	3.3	130
50	8.3	11.7	54.6	28.1	752	0.641	0.82	0.826	4.7	165
70	10.2	13.6	54.6	32.8	1012	0.443	0.57	0.574	6.6	205
95	12.3	15.9	54.6	38.2	1348	0.32	0.41	0.419	9	250
120	13.5	17.1	70	41.2	1651	0.253	0.33	0.334	11.3	290
150	15.3	19.3	95	46.5	2065	0.206	0.27	0.276	14.2

Q: Ihave a 19 gallon, electric, 120v water heater. Can I splice the two wires in it to an electrical cord that I can plug into a normal wall outlet? If so, can you tell me how, or direct me to a website which explains the process?: If the outlet you want to plug into does not have anything else running on that circuit; you can most likely do this. You need to be sure that the total amps of the hot water heater is under 12 Amps for a 15 Amp circuit and 16 Amps for a 20 Amp circuit. If you can do this for sure than take a 12 gauge extension cord cut off the receptacle end and take the black and white wires in the cord hook it up to the two wires from the hot water heater by twisting the wires together and putting on a yellow or orange wire nut (one wire nut per connection.) Do the same for both ground or green wires if there is a ground wire coming from the water heater. Plug it in it will work.

Q: I have changed lights in my own home many times. I bought a new light for my parents bathroom, but when I put it up I realized they had an electrical outlet on there too. My new light has a black and white wire. Coming from the house it has gray, green, 2 white, black and red. Can I cap off the ones I don't need? Which ones are which? Any help would be greatly appreciated.: It sounds like you disassembled the wires in the junction box and didn't diagram what went where. You now have a real problem in that you don't know, and without being there to analyze your electrical system, none of us here can tell you what went to what. Standard house wiring protocol says that black wires are the hot wire supplying electrical current to something. White wires are supposed to be used as the return/neutral, returning the current back to the circuit breaker or fuse box where they are attached to the ground buss. Normally, protocol says that a green wire [or a TOTALLY BARE wire] is used as a safety grounding conductor, in case the white neutral should get cut open, or disconnected. Other colored wires [the grey and red] are both used as hot wires in 220 volt circuits, and SUGGEST that 220 is SOMEHOW involved in that circuit. What you've got is a potentially deadly nightmare, AND YOU NEED a LICENSED, Professional ELECTRICIAN!!!!!! IF some of the wires were capped off and not connected to any others BEFORE YOU SCREWED the job up, THEN YES, those wires can again be capped off, BUT your question implies that they were NOT capped off before. So if that's the case, they should be connected to where they were before. Again, for safety, and to possibly prevent the house from catching on fire and possibly killing someone, YOU NEED A PROFESSIONAL to get the electrical system restored like it was before!!!!!

Q: I have an pump that I am trying to wire but the pump wire colors and the incoming plug wire colors are different. The old plug has a black wire, white wire, and green wire. There is a green screw which I know mounts the ground wire; however, the pump has a yellow wire with black stripe and a brown solid wire. Does the white wire match up with the yellow/black striped wire and the brown with the black wire?Thanks: if there are only 2 wires, then the colors don't mean much

Q: Wire on the 3 +2 with 4 +1 What is the meaning, please speak of the popular point, too professional do not understand.: If it is a cable trench, in general, the mortgage cable is on top, the high voltage cable is underneath

Q: I have an electrical box with 3 on off switches in it, 1 comes in from a ceiling light (it will be the only switch for it), the second will run to another separate ceiling light and also continue to another switch, and the third will run to an outlet which I want to be able to turn off and on with the switch for a table lamp.Starting at the power source coming into the box how should the rest be wired to work independentlyThanks: If it is 3 single pole switches all fed hot from that box then you would just pigtail 3 hot wires from your constant hot feed and go to all three switches and then each black wire from your lights will tie to the other lugs on your 3 switches. All whites tie together and wire nut and all grounds twist together and tie to the green lug on your switches.

Q: I bought an air conditioner that has a 15a 240 vac plug (NEMA 6-15, I believe - 2 horizontal prongs above the ground) but my air conditioner wall outlet is a 20a 125 vac (NEMA 5-20, I believe - one vertical prong and one that looks like a sideways T above the ground). I have also ascertained that this outlet has its own circuit at the breaker box. I guess I am just curious how big of a procedure it would be to get the outlet changed, as I live in a big apartment building and am hoping it would not involve anything outside of my own apartment - and also that it is cost effective vs. just selling the air conditioner at a loss and buying a different one.: I'm afraid that merely changing the receptacle to suit the configuration of the AC plug isn't going to solve your problem.The fact is you need 240 volts but the wiring is only delivering 120 volts. The other end of that wiring is connected to a single pole breaker of 120 volts. a 230 volt breaker needs 2 poles in order to supply the higher voltage. Now- If this was your house, you could do as you pleased with the electrical circuit to suit you. But I'm pretty sure if you tampered with the wiring in that apartment it would be illegal.I think the best thing to do is trade it for a new one of the correct voltage.

Q: I believe that someone done this to be intentionally, and it did infact catch on fire. The two wire were spliced together and it lay across my heating vent. Mind you the wire laying across the heater never melted it was just off the heater were it caught afire. I was thinking that something was pasted or pored on the wire to make sure that it would catch, something like asatone or a paint product? Here are some of the numbers and letters that were on the wire AWM 2468 VW-1 60 degree 300V AWG24 H.W.G. C. Please and Thankyou Im just looking for answers.: The heat duct only gets to about 110°F, well below the ignition point the wire. If it's not too hot for a human to touch it's not too hot for the wire. Heating ducts are often electrically connected to Earth ground. A break in the insulation, a bad splice, or exposed splice could cause a short. A partial short can cause arcing. AWG24 is small. It is only good for several Watts. Sending excessive power through the wire causes it to heat up, and the insulation fails, and if it continues the metal itself can burn. Melted insulation from small wire like that can catch fire from spark or enough heat. The ignition point is not very high. I can easily cause AWG24 to catch fire. Placing household chemicals on the wire would not likely cause a fire. Acetone, alcohol, and such dry quickly, there'd be nothing left to cause a fire.

Q: What is the difference between summer and winter? why? If you set up a wire in the summer should pay attention to what: There are three possibilities: . the power is broken. . the motherboard has a capacitor is broken, to the maintenance department to replace, very cheap. . the computer environment in a low temperature state.

Q: How to use a multimeter to measure the power line barrier: (Including PVC, insulation, etc.), insulation sheath (same as the power cable, or control cable, or signal cable, copper wire or aluminum wire), insulation (including PVC insulation, Insulation), applicable objects (such as marine, explosion-proof area) and the cable cross-sectional area and the number of cores. Model knowledge, please refer to encyclopedia: wire ?fr=ala0_1 wire safety carrying capacity,

Q: I live in a rental townhome with three other houses connected. I believe they were built in the 50's if that matters. These are breakers with copper wiring and I noticed the other day just how crazy our electrical is run. First we only have four 15 amp breakers, one of them dedicated to our washer and entire kitchen including our fridge and microwave, and the window receptacle we would plug our window ac in to! The dryer has a dedicated 50 amp but the entire house runs off of those four 15 amp breakers. We recently bought a second fridge and i wanted to plug it in next to our washer but now that i know what is all running off that line i dont know what to do. I know this couldn't meet code in a home but is there some loophole rental units get away with doing this!? Would it be safe to plug my second fridge into that line?: Because it was good enough at the time it was built, pretty much. Meanwhile, relatively few need a second 'fridge even now, so that was not anticipated back then. Where I live (single family home neighborhood), the second is more often an old one in the garage, for a man-cave beer cooler, and are silly-expensive to run. One good fridge beats two old ones, everytime.

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