Standard Hot Dipped Galvanized Wires For Chainlink Fencing

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Commercial Galvanized Steel Wire

(1) Quality : Meet GB/T 343 standard and other requirements of relevant standards .

(2) Zinc Coating: Meet GB/T 15393 standard and other requirements of relevant standards .

(3) Raw Material : Wire rod ——1006 , 1008 , 1018 , Q195 , etc, and zinc with 99.995% purity.

(4) Tensile Strength Range

Size (mm)	Tensile Strength (mpa)
0.15-1.60	290-550
0.65-1.60	400-550
1.61-6.00	400-1200

(5) Application : Used in wire mesh , artware , metal hose , binding for agriculture and construction , etc.

(6) Packing

Size (mm)	Coil Size	Spool Packing	Big Coil Packing
Size (mm)	Coil Size	Spool Packing	ID (mm)	OD (mm)
0.15-0.26	6 inch	1-14kg/spool
0.27-0.60	8 inch	1-100kg/spool
0.61-1.60	12/14/16 inch	1-100kg/spool	250-400	400-770
1.61-6.00		14-500kg/spool	450	800
1.61-6.00		14-500kg/spool	508	840

(7) Zinc Coating

Meet GB/T 15393 standard.

Size (mm)	Weight of Zinc-Coating ( g/m2 )
	A		AB	B	C	D	E	F
	A1	B2
≤0.25			30	20	18
>0.25-0.40				30	25	20
>0.40-0.50					30	20
>0.50-0.60					35	20
>0.60-0.80	120	110			40	20
>0.80-1.00	150	130			45	25
>1.00-1.20	180	150			50	25
>1.20-1.40	200	160			50	25
>1.40-1.60	220	180			50	35	30
>1.60-1.80	220	180			70	40	30
>1.80-2.20	230	200			80	50	40
>2.20-2.50	240	210			80	55	40
>2.50-3.00	250	230			90	70	45
>3.00-4.00	270	250			100	85	60	30
>4.00-5.20	290	270			110	95	70	40
>5.20-6.00	290	270	245		110	100	80	50

Q: I want to make wire art but I'm not sure what type of wire to use: They also sell rolls of other wire, click on metals in the top sequence, choose one then choose wire.

Q: I have a universal 02 sensor 4 wire (black, black, white and blue) the stock is white black and grey how do I wire it? thanks :): Keep in mind the sensor has a signal wire, a ground wire and a heater wire (or wires). Good luck!

Q: how do i tap a speaker wire? car audio not really my department: RE: Why Monster XP speaker cord sounds worse than production facility speaker cord? purely put in Monster XP speaker cord to all my Onkyo audio gadget and now its lots softer than the speaker cord that got here with my Onkyo receiver. quantity was once at 25-35 and it grew to become into loud and sparkling. Now after the Monster XP cord, I would desire to crank the receiver to approximately 50-60 to get the comparable sound...

Q: Has anyone tried to use or experiment to use CAT5E wire on a speaker going to Home theater receiver? If none, can you suggest a good speaker wire to use on a speaker.Paradigm Monitor Series and Onkyo TX-SR606 (Speaker and Receiver): Speaker wire is a big subject that prompts some very heated debates amongst the serious enthusiast crowd. Using CAT5 as speaker cable is typically prompted by way of either one of two ideas: Saving money, or improving performance. I will see the point in saving money in comparison with say hi-Fi speaker cables at $5/ft, however there are flawlessly good OFC copper cables of decent gauge such as seventy nine strand that clearly work out simply as low priced. The opposite drawback with fee saving is that not all CAT5e is created equal. Plenty of the finances stuff from China is copper clad aluminium as an alternative than pure copper. You would not ever choose to run your speakers with aluminium cable, so why take the threat if making use of CAT5e? Efficiency is some thing exclusive. That's very subjective. The reasoning why CAT5e is based on the excessive frequency efficiency of the cable. However in hi-fi world we need current delivery greater than excessive frequency extension. My own view is that CAT5e sounds distinctive adequate to - purchase not necessarily better than - normal OFC 79 strand for many listeners to listen to the trade fairly without problems. Treble and to a lesser measure the bass gets accentuated at the rate of midrange. It's a bit like hitting the Loudness button. The sound has a bit of extra presence at the expense of naturalness. Individually I believe the advantages are doubtful and now not worth the effort. Get a tight gauge OFC that's satisfactory and bendy alternatively than some plaited network cable.

Q: in hooking up a hot wire from the battery to a toggle switch inside a vehicle, i ran a seperate ground wire to the body, there are 2 wires coming from the unit i need to hook to the toggle switch.how do i test to see which one of those is a hot wire? i am not too smart at this. ty kindly: Depends on what your hooking up? Look at the unit where the wires go in and there may be a +(hot) or -(ground) marking, and the ground wire is usually black and the hot is usually red,orange or yellow.

Q: When I cross the black wire and ground I get a spark. Isnthis normal?: Well, one of the wires has to be hot, or it defeats the entire purpose! Yes, generally black is the code for the hot wire. White is generally neutral, and green is ground. There are weird exceptions, so don't assume anything about anything. White and green are not the same, by design. There should be working voltage between either of them. There should be negligible voltage between neutral and ground. If you don't know what you're doing, don't work on house wiring with the power on. That stuff can burn you. Burns are the worst injury to recover from, in terms of taking a long time, being painful during that time, and leaving you scarred in the end. On second thought, don't work on it with the power off either. You can hook things up wrong and it will seemingly work until one day it bites somebody, possibly not you. Learn how to do it properly. It is not that hard, but you do need to do the research. It also helps to have a few basic tools like the plug polarity checker.

Q: I was looking at the wiring of my current thermostat and I want to know why it's wired the way it is...The yellow wire was wrapped around the white terminal and the yellow terminal. And the white wire was wrapped the around the Orange terminal. The red and green wires were each wrapped around their respective terminals. And the blue wire wasn't connected to anything. Why would the electrician have wrapped the yellow wire around 2 terminals? Is that normal? Also, I tried installing a new thermostat but the heating is not working. The fan works but it just blows room temperature air. The new thermostat only had 4 terminals for R, Y, W, G. I connected the wires I had to their respective terminals. However, I think it may not be working because I have a probably have a heat pump. Any Ideas why else it might not be working? Thanks a lot!: Yeah it sounds like you have a heat pump and it is wired VERY basically. Your new thermostat will not work because it has no O terminal. You will have to buy a heat pump t-stat then wire it the same way your old one was and it should work fine. In other words Red to R and Rh if it has one, Green to G, Yellow to Y *AND* W, and White to O. Basically what's being done the way your old t-stat was wired is the compressor is being brought on in heat or cool and the white wire on O is switching your reversing valve for cooling mode. The way you have the new one wired is just going to switch the reversing valve and turn the fan on and won't bring the compressor on when the heat is called to run. If your system has backup heat, that extra blue wire could be used to bring the backup heat on if it is re-wired to do so. If your going to have it re-wired I would change the wiring so blue was the reversing valve and white was the backup heat. This would require re-wiring both indoor and outdoor units if it is a split system or re-wiring the package unit if it is that type. Or if you really want it done right have new thermostat wiring run and have it wired properly for a heat pump. If you don't want to go through all of that just buy a heat pump stat and wire it like your old stat.

Q: My light switch has three sets of three wires (like conduit).. there are three black wires, three white wires, and three bare wires.. and I don't know how to hook up another light switch because it's near impossible to get three wires around a screw terminal. My boyfriend (works in maintenance) hooked a light switch up (one that you put the wires in a hole and then screw) except for the bare wire where two wires are under the screw terminal and the third is wrapped around the other two bare wires. The lights will stay on but when you turn the switch off, it kicks the breaker.. can anyone tell me why it's doing that? Thank you.: What it sounds like is happening there is that the switch box is the main feed for the room. You have a set from the panel, a set for the light fixture, and a set that are downstream, such as for an outlet. You need to determine which set is which. Then cut a piece of black wire and a bare copper about 8 long. This is how the connections are made: TURN THE POWER OFF. Then connect all of the whites together with a wire nut. Connect the new bare copper to the other grounds with another wire nut. Then connect the black from the panel, the downstream black, and the short black together with another wire nut. The black to the light fixture and the black pigtail (short wire) connect to the 2 brass terminals on the switch. The bare copper pigtail goes on the green screw on the switch. Reinstall the switch in the box, turn the power on, and check your work. If the light stays on at all times, but the outlets only work when the switch is on, those 2 wires are reversed. Turn the power off, switch the wires, and you should be good to go. Hope this helps.

Q: Live wire- bring current to appliancesNeutral wire- returns the current from the applianceMy question is, if we are using AC current, then in the next half cycle, the live wire will return the current from the appliance and the neutral wire will bring current to appliances. Am I right? If I’m right, then both wires have the same function why give them different names? Really appreciate your help.: I wish I could give you a more technical answer, but here is a simple one: The change in potential or voltage changes (in AC) from positive to negative in the hot wire. The neutral has NOT change in potential. The voltage is always 0. Put another way, If you put an appliance between a ground and another ground, no current will flow. If you put an appliance between a hot and a neutral, current will flow. If you put an appliance between two hot wires, current may or may not flow, depending on other factors.

Q: My dad is trying to wire a electric cook top...it has three wires (black, red, and copper). His junction box has four wires (black, red, white and copper). He first wired the black to black, red to red and copper to copper, he capped the white wire in the junction box. The cook top did not work. Then he connected the white wire with the two copper wires, and the cook top now works. So the question is will this connection work or will it cause a problem? And if it causes a problem what can he do to resolve it?: so it is new already == call the 800 number that is with the paperwork and ask the customer service to give you an explanation and email a wiring diagram ... best way to fix and have safety ...

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