Stainless Steel Wire for Flexible Duct,Mattress Spring,Brushes and Ropes production

Stainless Steel Wire for Flexible Duct,Mattress Spring,Brushes and Ropes production System 1

Stainless Steel Wire for Flexible Duct,Mattress Spring,Brushes and Ropes production System 2

Stainless Steel Wire for Flexible Duct,Mattress Spring,Brushes and Ropes production

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Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 m.t.

Supply Capability:: 1 m.t./month

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Quick Details

Standard:	AISI,ASTM,DIN,EN,GB,JIS	Grade:	200 Series	Wire Gauge:	0.3mm-10.00mm
Length:	0-20000m, As demand	Application:	Industry, Machinery, Medical, Food, Electron, Chemical, Aviation,Construction,spring ,brush etc	Certification:	SGS,Issued by QC
C Content (%):	0.02%-0.15%	Si Content (%):	0.10%-0.60%	Place of Origin:	Zhejiang China (Mainland)
Brand Name:	cnbm	Model Number:	stainless steel wire 201	Type:	Drawn Wire
Process:	Annealing, Bend Test	Product Characteristic:	tensile strength being	Thickness:	As demand
Delivery Status:	Bright surface,hard,semi-soft,and soft etc.	HS Code:	7223000000	Surface finish:	stainless steel wire

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:	-Spool 3-20kgs -Carrier-Less Core 200-300kgs/400-500kgs -Mill Coil+PP strap 30-50kgs/100-150kgs/150-200kgs -Mill Coil 30-50kgs/100-150kgs -Other to meet with customers's requirements
Delivery Detail:	7-15 days

Specifications

stainless steel wire
-20 years production experience
-Advanced CNC equipment
-ROHS Approved
-New buyers support

Stainless Steel Wire for Flexible Duct,Mattress Spring,Brushes and Ropes production

200 series stainless steel wire are with high chemical inertness, elasticity and tenacity, widely applies to the lines of industry, machinery, medical, food, electron, chemical, aviation.

Stainless steel wire products:

A) Material Classification:

200 series: 201, 202 …

300 series: 301,302,304,304L,304H,309S,310S,316,316L,321,347…

400 series: 410,420,430,431,434…

B) Hardness Classification:

Soft | 1/4H | 1/2H | 3/4H | H | EH |SH

C) Surface Classification:

Bright; Gray; Oxidation; Burnishing; Coppering; Lead plating and so on

D) Purpose Classification:

For spring; cold upsetting; welding; wire rope

E )Physical Classification:

Magnetic / Nonmagnetic

F) Shape classification:

Round wire; Half round wire; Square wire; pressure flat wire; precision shaped wire

Stainless steel screw wire made in China
Product name	Stainless steel screw wire
Standard	SUS, EN,DIN,JIS
Grade	302
Diameter	0.3-10.0mm
Surface	Bright, cloudy,plain,black
Type	spring,welded,tig,mig etc soft and hard
Package	in coil or in spool then in carton or as yourequest
Application	Construction,spring ,brush etc
MOQ	500 kgs
Trade Term	FOB CFR CIF
Payment	T/T L/C
Loading Port	Ningbo
Delivery Time	20-30days, mainly in accordance with the quantity
Certification	ISO9001

Q: I notice my 10/100 Ethernet wire uses 4 wires (2 twisted pairs). I'm curious what each wire is used for. I understand one pair is for Tx (transmit) and the other for Rx (receive) but why does it need 2 wires for each? I assume bits of data cross on one, but what of the other?: This is an ethernet only cable. A full patch lead has 8 cables. Yours is STILL an ethernet cable. The additional blue pair would be telephone and the brown pair was unused, but is commonly used for power over ethernet now. ANY data connection requires 2 cables to balance the signal. In effect one is pushing voltage while the other is pulling and vice versa. One is signal, in effect the other is a ground, bur the idea is that by using twisted pair cables the inductive voltage created in one polarity on one is cancelled by the inductive voltage returning on the other in opposite polarity. The same rule applies to external interference from other equipment as these are also cancelled. If it used one cable and a common ground you can never guarantee this immunity to interference.

Q: I need the wiring diagram for the factory radio of a 2008 ford explorer. i need to know which wires are for the back speakers so i can connect my Hi-Lo converter to it!? thanks: I believe this is what you are looking for, or should help... 2008 Ford Explorer Car Stereo Installation Instructions Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Blue/Red Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Green/White Car Radio Ground Wire: Black/Blue Car Radio Illumination Wire: N/A Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: Violet/Red Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Brown Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Violet Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Orange Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/Green Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Yellow Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/White Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Blue

Q: The drawing shows two long, straight wires that are suspended from the ceiling. The mass per unit of length of each wire is 0.050kg/m. Each of the four strings suspending the wires has a length of 1.2m. When the wires carry identical currents in opposite directions, the angel between the strings holding the two wires is 15 degrees. What is the current in each wire?? Im not sure what equations to use for this problem.: Wiring that previous could desire to get replaced. Insulators wreck down over the years. In Edison's day insulation became into, rope and tar, or fabric, with glass insulators to guard lumber. you like a rectifier to create pulse ac (see image voltaic Panel grant) i hit upon it not straight forward to have faith anybody might grant DC power. The generator could desire to be on the threshold of factor to apply, do to severe voltage drop in DC cutting-edge over long distance. through fact of this AC is used now. till that's an Edison Museum image voltaic power is DC too. I advise studying image voltaic power for ideal DC wiring practices. I actual have been a electrician my total existence and know little or no approximately DC wiring and contraptions. in case you presently have electrical energy, get multimeter attempt for ac voltage first. then DC to steer away from unfavorable the meter, to confirm what power you have

Q: Ceiling fan has Green, Blue, black and white and the ceiling only has a black wire and white wire.: blue and black to black and white to white. (blue is for the light) If you look deeper in the ceiling you should find a bare copper wire and that would go to the green. (if you cant find it,then wire as stated)

Q: I have a 1989 Nissan 240sx. Somehow the fan caught a hold of the wiring harness and tore all the wires. any idea how much it's going to cost?: Depending on how many wires were damaged and need repaired, I wouldn't recommend a repair unless you can solder them and heat shrink them. And you would want to stagger the joints so they are not all in the same place. Getting a used wiring harness shouldn't cost much. Probably the same as getting all the tools necessary to repair them. (if you don't already have them.) then all you have to do is run the new one along the old one and unplug connectors one at a time.

Q: There are two switches – the left is for the fan, the right is for the light. They operate independently. I want to replace the light switch with one that has a motion sensor.There are four sets of bundled wires coming out of the back of the box. Each bundle has a white, a black, and a copper wire.Two black wires come out of each switch. The top wires go into two of the bundles in the back of the box, the bottom wires are connected with each other and with two more black wires coming out of the other two bundles coming out of the back of the box.All the white wires are twisted together with a red cap. All of the copper wires are twisted together with another red cap.My motion sensor has a red, black, green and yellow wire. The directions say the yellow wire is not used, because this is not a 3-way light. Is there a straightforward way to do this?: Sure is!. You wire it exactly the way the instructions say to. Which is to use the 2 wires on the existing switch. The bare wire on the switch (if present) is the ground and goes to the green. Just like the instructions say. You are apparently letting all those other wires scare you. The motion sensor is nothing more than an automatic switch. It does the same thing the existing switch does, using the exact same wires. Do Not touch any of the existing splices. Look again at the instructions. Take a deep breath and have at. I've been in control cabinets with Hundreds of wires in them. I ignored all but the ones I need to work on. Other wise I would still be there trying to figure it out! (chuckle)

Q: I recently bought a set of DT Moto emergency lights for my pickup and after installing them i found when i went to wire them to my battery the wire was too short. I didn't install the grille lights just the visor. Could i cut wires from the grille set and wire them to extend the visor light wire?: I'm looking online to find out what DT Moto lights are. Ok, I see what they are. I didn't know the brand name. LED lights in general are not high current, so they probably use lamp cord. I want to explain something to you about polarity. Electronic circuits are sensitive to the polarity of the DC electricity. The positive (+) and the negative (-) connections must be observed. So many people have absolutely no clue about this. There are just two wires. But if you extend them, you have a 50-50 chance of wiring correctly or incorrectly. There is only one allowable way. If wrong, it WON'T work, and probably will blow up the circuitry. So connection to battery or cigarette lighter plug is extremely important not to reverse the polarity. If just the LED lights got reversed, they wouldn't light, but they wouldn't be injured. Just reverse the wiring. But to the 12 volt source, polarity can't be wrong. Not for an instant. If you look closely at the insulation, you will see that one wire has smooth insulation, and one wire either has milti-ribbed insulation, or a single rib down the side. If you extend wiring, make sure to connect smooth to smooth and ribbed to ribbed. Wires should be soldered with electronic solder and the joints covered with heat shrink tubing. No crimped barrel connectors, or twisted bare wires with tape, or house wiring wire nuts. These methods all beg for failure. I don't know about robbing wire from one place and connecting to another. Is the one wire actually too long? You'll never need it? I guess you could take it. But me personally, I'd go get some wire from a lamp store. Match the wire conductor gauge (size), not the insulation size. Most lamp cord is 18 gauge. Some is 16 gauge. You can get 14 gauge or even 12 gauge. Thicker is a smaller number. Places that install car audio systems often have/sell thicker lamp cord. Have I told you enough?

Q: what wires do i use to bridge subs together?: 12-14 guage

Q: Whenever I'm making jewelry, I typically wind up using crimp beads (with toggle closures, in most cases). Whenever I cut off the beading wire at the end, after enclosing the crimp bead around it, there's always this itsy bitsy part of the wire that irritates me to no end when I wear the jewelry. It seems that I can only cut the wire so much before I wind up snipping at the crimp bead. How can I remedy the irritation fact of the left-over wire?Maybe put glue on the wire piece and let it dry? Idk. Grr.: Here is the way to get rid of the scratchy wire: Take the wire on through the crimp bead and thread it down into the beads, and then crimp the wire. If you have a little wire sticking out there on down between the beads, just bend back the beads, and clip it with your jewelry wire cutters that have a side edge. Be sure and cut your wire with a couple inches to spare so you have enough wire to attach the clasp and thread the wire down. I was having trouble with the crimp bead scratching, no matter how I crimped it. I found out that they sell a crimp cover. It looks like an open clam shell, and you just slip it over the crimp bead, and close it with pliers. Beware, there is something called a clam shell, but it has a eye on it, it is for non-metal stringing materials. Another thing I found was a little tiny horseshoe called a guide. It goes above the crimp bead, and holds the clasp. It protects the wire from the wear and tear of the clasp. And it is so easy to pull the wire through it once it is on, you can adjust the length of the wire over and over. I was literally stuffing the wire down into the beads with a pliers. No more! Just pull on the end, and down the wire goes. No more ugly lengths of wire between the beads and the crimp bead. I found both these items in gold and silver colors, at Michaels, and Craft etc on line, and on other online sites. So, save the glue for working with elastic cord and gluing a bead over the knot to hide it.

Q: I bought this ceiling lamp, and there are 4 wires coming out of it. One white and one black (positive and negative), a bare copper wire for grounding, but there's also a yellow striped green wire. I was wondering what's the latter one for ?In my ceiling I have the black, white and bare copper wires.I'm Canadian by the way: The yellow and green wire is another ground wire. In a house in North America most systems are AC and there is NO positive or negative conductor. The conductors are a ground/bare, white/neutral and any color is a hot wire. The green or yellow green are the exception to the color codes. I suggest you get a book on basic house wiring before you attempt anything besides basic replacement of devices.

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