• Roofing Insulation Rolls Galvanized Hexagonal Wire Netting-1 1/4 inch for Chicken and Farm System 1
  • Roofing Insulation Rolls Galvanized Hexagonal Wire Netting-1 1/4 inch for Chicken and Farm System 2
  • Roofing Insulation Rolls Galvanized Hexagonal Wire Netting-1 1/4 inch for Chicken and Farm System 3
Roofing Insulation Rolls Galvanized Hexagonal Wire Netting-1 1/4 inch for Chicken and Farm

Roofing Insulation Rolls Galvanized Hexagonal Wire Netting-1 1/4 inch for Chicken and Farm

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10 roll
Supply Capability:
3000 roll/month

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Introduction of Galvanized Hexagonal Wire Mesh for Farm and Chicken House

Galvanized Hexagonal Wire Mesh is made of by high quality galvanized wire, Low carton steel wire, stainless steel wire, iron wire, Galvanized steel wire.

Application of Galvanized Hexagonal Wire Mesh for Farm and Chicken House

Galvanized Hexagonal Wire Mesh is widely used in industrial and agricultural constructions, Rockwool, fence for poultry cage, fishing cage, playground fence and Christmas decorations

Surface treatment of Galvanized Hexagonal Wire Mesh for Farm and Chicken House

a. Black (mild steel wire)

b. Electro galvanized, (galvanized before welding, galvanized after welding)

c. Hot dip galvanized, (galvanized before welding, galvanized after welding)

d. Stainless Steel Wire

Advantage of Galvanized Hexagonal Wire Mesh for Farm and Chicken House

Our Galvanized Hexagonal Wire Mesh has strong corrosion-resisting and oxidation-resisting, stable shape, clean ends, good packing with good quality and rock bottom price.

Packing of Galvanized Hexagonal Wire Mesh for Farm and Chicken House

1. Waterproof paper then PVC shrinked

2. PVC shrinked only

3. Black waterproof paper only

4. Waterproof paper then metal/wooden pallet

5. Plastic film then carton

(Also as your request. )

Pictures of Galvanized Hexagonal Wire Mesh for Farm and Chicken House

Galvanized Hexagonal Wire Netting-1 1/4 Inch for Chicken and Farm

Galvanized Hexagonal Wire Netting-1 1/4 Inch for Chicken and Farm

Galvanized Hexagonal Wire Netting-1 1/4 Inch for Chicken and Farm

 

Specification of Galvanized Hexagonal Wire Mesh

Standard Welded Wire Mesh (in 30m length, Width of 0.5m-1.8m)

Mesh

Wire Gauge (BWG)

Inch

MM

1/4" x 1/4"

6.4mm x 6.4mm

22-24

3/8" x 3/8"

10.6mm x 10.6mm

19-22

1/2" x 1/2"

12.7mm x 12.7mm

16-23

5/8" x 5/8"

16mm x 16mm

18-21,

3/4" x 3/4"

19.1mm x 19.1mm

16-21

1" x 1/2"

25.4mm x 12.7mm

16-21

1-1/2" x 1-1/2"

38mm x 38mm

14-19

1" x 2"

25.4mm x 50.8mm

14-16

2" x 2"

50.8mm x 50.8mm

12-16

1/4" x 1/4"

6.4mm x 6.4mm

12-16

Welded Fencing Mesh (in 30m Length, Width of 0.5m -1.8m)

Mesh

Wire Gauge (BWG)

Inch

MM

2" x 3"

50mm x 75mm

1.65-2.5mm

3" x 3"

75mm x 756mm

1.65-2.75mm

2" x 4"

50mm x 100mm

2.1-2.9mm

4" x 4"

100mm x 100mm

2.0mm,2.5mm

FAQ

1. What is the storage condition?

The Galvanized Hexagonal Wire Mesh should be stored at room temperature and kept from wet and heat source.

2. How to guarantee the quality of the products

We have established the international advanced quality management systemevery link from raw material to final product we have strict quality testWe resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance.

3. How long can we receive the product after purchase?

In the purchase of product within four working days, we will arrange the factory delivery as soon as possible. The specific time of receiving is related to the state and position of customers. Commonly 7 to 10 working days can be served.

Q: I know you're not supposed to directly insulate the roof due to the roof getting super heated in the summer, but my walk-in (actually, more like "crawl in") attic is very hot in the summer and very cold in the winter. Is there anything I can do to improve efficiency? I can't help but think I'm wasting a lot of energy just to keep my roof lasting a little longer.
The reason you do not put insulation directly on the underside of your roof is all about moisture and mold. You need an air gap between the roof and the insulation and allow it to breath. This prevents moisture from condensation that can cause big problems. You could install a radiant barrier that reflects the heat. Do a google search to learn more about it. You could install and attic fan to suck the hot air out in the summer. Most important is to make sure the insulation on the attic floor is the proper thickness.
Q: hi me and my friends made a lounge out of my old tin roof shed we have a tv speakers and a few other electrical goods... since winters on its way we were wondering whats the best and cheapest way to insulate the place note that its a tin rof but has wood under it where the old indulation used to be the place is pretty chilly and sometime damp plz help we dont wanna be freezing our asses off in there thanks :)
I would look at using the pink insulation if it will fit between the tin roof and the under it, If not, you may have to remove the wood to install the insulation.
Q: Does snow on the roof help or hurt my heating bill?
It shouldn't matter. Here's why: If your attic is already well insulated and ventilated, there is insulation sitting on top of your drywall or plaster ceiling. Above that insulation is moving cold air. That air keeps your roof from rotting. The insulation creates a barrier between your living space and the moving air in the attic. You can differentiate homes with good insualtion from those without it--well insulated homes will have snow on their rooftops for a longer time. Additionally, well insulated homes are less likely to develop ice dams. So, I don't believe the snow on your roof should make any difference at all in your energy bill.
Q: We had a water leak in our pipes in our foundation and had to re-route our pipes along our roof. We have tried some really basic insulation for piping, but it usually deteriorates very quickly due to sun light and wind. What are some ways we can insulate our pipes effectively without having to re-insulate every month? This has to be something fairly simple and inexpensive. We aren't looking for perfect insulation, just something that will keep the water warm in the winter and cool in the summer.
Contact a local remodeling contractor and install the new piping system properly. Even a system under a foundation can be repaired, but it is not cheap to do it.
Q: Can you put fiberglass insulation on the under side of roof tiles in the loft in the house?
Not between tiles and roof sheathing, but YES on the inside of the sheathing, between the rafters. However, the recommended location is between the rafters on the FLOOR of the loft, unless you plan on using the loft as a living space.
Q: I know when you inhale the insulation from the roof irritates the throat but what can you do to clear it from your throat after inhaling it?
it's not your throat you should be worried about. it's your lungs. wear a respirator....or at the very least, a dust mask. you only live once so make it last.
Q: Finally remembering to do so, before my family and I left the house for approximately 4 hours, I turned off the heat before leaving. When we came home I turned it back on, but was shocked to see that the temperature had dropped 4 degrees in that time. 4 degrees in just under 4 hours seems like a lot of heat loss, does it not? I've seen the insulation in our roof and it's just that sawdust looking stuff spread everywhere. I feel like I'm paying a lot of unnecessary dollars for heating: the air does kick on every hour or two and we keep the thermostat at 68.Is it reasonable for me to talk to my landlord about this problem and getting better insulation in the ceiling, and maybe in the roof? (the master bedroom, on the far corner of the house, is always 2-3 degrees below the rest of the house). Are my expectations to not lose a degree of heat or more per hour unreasonable? Would a typical landlord consider this a problem worth discussing?
You can ask and I'm sure the landlord would be happy to have more insulation installed at your expense. There are many factors which contribute to heat loss including how much thermal mass in the home (furnishings, etc.) and how well it absorbs heat, the type of flooring, how well your basement/crawl space is insulated, cold leaks through windows and doors, chimneys, and so on. Then there is the outside ambient temperature to factor in. Personally, I think 4 degrees in 4 hours is very little heat loss. But, that would depend upon what the outside temperature was. Added: The far bedroom is probably the furthest from your heating source. If you have hot water radiant heat and a basement that won't freeze during the toughest times, you can insulate the heating pipes if not already done. Wrapping with newspaper is a cost-effective way of doing it and since the pipe will never get to 451F, there is no danger of it igniting. However, no matter what, the furthest away from the heat source is going to be the coldest. If "far corner" is N, NE, W NW, those are the coldest spots on a house during winter due to lack of sunlight. Here's a tip from my serviceman -- don't turn your furnace too low during the night. There is a break-even point where the energy used to heat up the environment is equal to the energy saved by keeping it at a lower temperature. The range is about 8 degrees on average, but that's here in the NE. This bore out very well last year during a bitterly cold winter that started in October and went well into May when I kept the heat "cranked up" higher at night. I used less fuel than I did the year before, which only had 6 months of normal winter. I used to turn it down to 55 at night, but I turned it down to 62 from 70. I was seriously overdoing it thinking I was doing me and the environment a favor :)
Q: i have about 200 sq ft of odd shaped polystyrene foam (rigid) insulation between 3" and 5" thick. it's leftover from installing a flat roof on a commercial building. creative ideas anyone? grind it and use it as attic insulation in a home?thanks.
put an AD and sell it as material for Accoustic sound proofing,
Q: The roof does not have fillet under tiles, our house tends to be very cold and we want to remove the insulation and put a knew one, will our house be warm? any tips and advice.thank you for your time
I was an insulation installer for a time and this is what we did. We never took out old insulation; this is even when we blew it into the walls. We used cellulose wood fiber aka recycled paper preferable news paper and phone books. After the stuff was ground up Borax and Boric acid was added to make it fire proof. This stuff was blown in on top of the old stuff, usually 6 to 8 inches. All you do is have one person in the attic who sits down, with a hose in hand you plow it in and take measurement as you move along to be sure it is the thickness you want. Try to keep it even and smooth (like icing a cake). The other person stands next to the blower, which is place outside our in the garage (ours was in the back of a truck). This person must keep the hopper full and walk from the blower to the attic to physically look at you for safety reasons. Both must were face mask over your mouth and nose, you may want to wear goggles as well. I didn’t like goggles because they fogged up. Before you start work out emergency calls and other communication. We did this by turning the blower on and off with the remote switch (which you must have in the attic). If you take the square footage of your attic to the store the sales person can tell you how much you need. This info use to be on the back of the bag and it is easy to do. Make sure you have the correct number of roof vent for the square footage of your space. Have a fun time doing it and it will be over in no time! The blowers may have the formula to figure how much you can do per square foot per hour. This will let you budget your time better, remember that formula is usually how much can be blown per hour; the other task will eat into that time frame. To do the side walls is a bit more involved, but if you need help with that as well I would be glad to tell you the details.
Q: Can I install rigid insulation between roof decking and shingles on a sloped roof?
No. The shingles are applied directly to the decking (over felt paper). Nailing through rigid insulation will either cause dips from driving the occaisional nail too far, or the shingles won't be nailed down tight and will blow off in the wind. Insulate under the decking.

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