Galvanized Hexagonal Wire Netting 3/4 Inch for Construction - Roofing Insulation Rockwool
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Tianjin
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 10 roll
- Supply Capability:
- 10000 roll/month
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Introduction of 3/4 Inch Galvanized Hexagonal Wire Mesh
Galvanized Hexagonal Wire Mesh is made of by high quality galvanized wire, Low carton steel wire, stainless steel wire, iron wire, Galvanized steel wire.
Application of 3/4 Inch Galvanized Hexagonal Wire Mesh
Galvanized Hexagonal Wire Mesh is widely used in industrial and agricultural constructions, Rockwool, fence for poultry cage, fishing cage, playground fence and Christmas decorations
Surface treatment of 3/4 Inch Galvanized Hexagonal Wire Mesh
a. Black (mild steel wire)
b. Electro galvanized, (galvanized before welding, galvanized after welding)
c. Hot dip galvanized, (galvanized before welding, galvanized after welding)
d. Stainless Steel Wire
Advantage of Galvanized Hexagonal Wire Mesh
Our Galvanized Hexagonal Wire Mesh has strong corrosion-resisting and oxidation-resisting, stable shape, clean ends, good packing with good quality and rock bottom price.
Packing of Galvanized Hexagonal Wire Mesh
1. Waterproof paper then PVC shrinked
2. PVC shrinked only
3. Black waterproof paper only
4. Waterproof paper then metal/wooden pallet
5. Plastic film then carton
(Also as your request. )
Pictures of Galvanized Hexagonal Wire Mesh
Specification of Galvanized Hexagonal Wire Mesh
Mesh Opening | Wire Thickness | Width | |||
inch | mm | bwg | mm | inch | m |
3/8 | 10 | 27; 26; 25; 24; 23 | 0.40-0.63 | 12-48 | 0.3-1.2 |
1/2 | 13 | 27; 26; 25; 24; 23; 22; 21; 20 | 0.40-0.88 | 12-80 | 0.3-2.0 |
5/8 | 16 | 27; 26; 25; 24; 23; 22; 21; 20 | 0.40-0.88 | 12-48 | 0.3-1.2 |
3/4 | 19 | 27; 26; 25; 24; 23; 22; 21; 20 | 0.40-0.88 | 12-80 | 0.3-2.0 |
1 | 25 | 27; 26; 25; 24; 23; 22; 21; 20 | 0.40-0.88 | 12-80 | 0.3-2.0 |
1-1/4 | 30 | 24; 23; 22; 21; 20; 19; 18 | 0.56-1.25 | 12-48 | 0.3-1.2 |
1-1/2 | 40 | 23; 22; 21; 20; 19; 18 | 0.63-1.25 | 12-80 | 0.3-2.0 |
2 | 50 | 23; 22; 21; 20; 19; 18; 17 | 0.63-1.47 | 12-80 | 0.3-2.0 |
3 | 75 | 23; 22; 21; 20; 19; 18; 17; 16; 15 | 0.63-1.83 | 12-80 | 0.3-2.0 |
4 | 100 | 16; 15; 14; 13; 12 | 1.65-2.77 | 20-160 | 0.5-4.0 |
FAQ
1. What is the storage condition?
The Galvanized Hexagonal Wire Mesh should be stored at room temperature and kept from wet and heat source.
2. How to guarantee the quality of the products？
We have established the international advanced quality management system，every link from raw material to final product we have strict quality test；We resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance.
3. How long can we receive the product after purchase?
In the purchase of product within four working days, we will arrange the factory delivery as soon as possible. The specific time of receiving is related to the state and position of customers. Commonly 7 to 10 working days can be served.
- Q: Live in Houston, very hot and humid. Looking at adding radiant and additional insulation to roof in house. We have a lot of sun, and AC bills.
- we live in the desert, and got our roof coated, and instantly noticed the difference, it is much more insulated, and provides protection against leak (which was the main reason we had it done)
- Q: I am really confused about this science stuff! Sustainability is terrible xP
- All versions of insulation are largely air that is kept from moving - air is a good insulator if convection - movement of heated or cooled air due to changes of density - is prevented. This assumes that a vapor barrier and caulking prevent actual air movement through the wall when a wind is blowing. Some insulators are also poor conductors of heat so the connection between inside and outside that might occur is broken. As it happens, glass used in fiberglass and minerals used in rock wool are actually pretty good conductors of heat in solid form but as fine particles and flakes they don't conduct well from one strand/piece to the next.
- Q: 1) What thickness of rigid insulation is used on flat roofs?
- It depends on what R factor is called for , usually 1 & 1/2 inch on roof 2 &1/2 on walls ( usually statdard)
- Q: this room has an aluminum roof and hardwood siding. All the heat hit the aluminum roof
- Spray on expanding foam is best, paint on radiant barrier may work, blow in insulation in attic (cellulose or fiberglass) or put 12"x12" Styrofoam ceiling tiles on the ceiling, they look decent and not to expensive, installs with latex adhesive or staples. Good luck
- Q: I am specifically considering the re-roofing of a an older home where rafters were made with 2x4 or 2x6 and the rafter space (and possibly the attic space) does not allow sufficient space for insulation and proper ventilation behind the insulation. The old layers of roofing have to be removed in any event. At this point I am considering applying insulation boards on the existing sheathing and then a new layer of sheathing before the new roofing material. (similar to a SIP: structural insulated panel) The two issues I am concerned with is that the insulation can act as a vapor barrier. Would condensation potentially rot the lower sheathing. How is this avoided in SIP roofing panels? The second issue may be with fire regulations.
- The sip panels are vented depending on what thickness over all that you want. The last ones I used had 4 inches of rigid foam board then on top of that had 3" strips every 16" an inch thick which created an airspace. On top was 5/8 Osb. To create an affective air flow the fascia cannot plane through with the plywood at the bottom but fall just short of the 1" space. To cap it a oversized vented drip edge is used. You must also have a ridge vent for proper flow. These panels can near 100$. You can do it your own way like I do when building log cabins by laying 2" foam down first then lay 2x4 16 on center on top then finally your plywood. If you use CDX instead of Osb it will outlast it by 100%. Rigid foam insulation is not like batt-faced. Rfboard ins. Is used in boat hulls and even after being submerged for long periods of time will return to its original density and r-value. For obvious reasons batt ins. Will not. You won't have a moisture problem as long as you don't have a venting problem. If you are using high hat lighting don't let the cans touch your rigid ins. Tuck batt in softly around them TAKE THE PAPER OFF! By code if you have an interior wall 10or more ft. It must have a fireblock, simply a 2x4 turned flat between the studs. On your roof the ceiling you see inside, (most likely 7/8 tongue and groove boards) passes as the same. Good luck!
- Q: do i leave air gap in attic roof for insulation?
- The best way to set up an attic is to put a vapor barrier under the rafters (before nailing on the gyproc), then put the insulation (fibreglas batts) between the rafters to full depth (10 or 12 inches). Soffit vents are installed under the eaves at the sides of the roof, and gable vents are placed near the peak of the roof at the ends. This allows for airflow resulting from convection, particularly important in the summer months to remove heat buildup in the attic. If the insulation is adequate, it will not only isolate this heat buildup from the inside of the house in summer, but will prevent heat loss to the attic in winter. (The airflow in winter will be minimal, but will remove any moisture/condensation that might collect otherwise.)
- Q: the name of the company is SIG plc.I need help asap, cos I am struggling to figure it out. If it is not, what kind of competition is it???
- Sure can..........if it's the only store in town...........
- Q: What is the aim of insulation in walls and in roofs?
- Neither, it is to not let heat through.
- Q: attic insulation
- Blow in insulation is so easy and cost effective, do it yourself. Machines can be rented at Lowes, HD, etc where you buy the material.
- Q: Finally remembering to do so, before my family and I left the house for approximately 4 hours, I turned off the heat before leaving. When we came home I turned it back on, but was shocked to see that the temperature had dropped 4 degrees in that time. 4 degrees in just under 4 hours seems like a lot of heat loss, does it not? I've seen the insulation in our roof and it's just that sawdust looking stuff spread everywhere. I feel like I'm paying a lot of unnecessary dollars for heating: the air does kick on every hour or two and we keep the thermostat at 68.Is it reasonable for me to talk to my landlord about this problem and getting better insulation in the ceiling, and maybe in the roof? (the master bedroom, on the far corner of the house, is always 2-3 degrees below the rest of the house). Are my expectations to not lose a degree of heat or more per hour unreasonable? Would a typical landlord consider this a problem worth discussing?
- The roof (assume pitched) doesn't need insulating it's above the attic above the ceilings of all the rooms that need 12 inch of mineral wool insulation to stop heat loss (you may have less thickness not all insulation is to the correct standards) Also if as I suspect the walls of your home are timber with shiplap (and not solid brick / cavity walls) they also require insulation top up. From a google search there is state wide Government grants for insulating homes, could be available in your state? using blown insulation to walls/ceilings. If you decide to install it yourself the payback is excellent -in 12 months depending on fuel cost and what existing insulation (from your description minimal) The landlord could be entitled to increase your lease costs if he takes the work on as he has greatly improved the thermal insulation which will reduce your heating costs and make his property more valuable to lease.
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Galvanized Hexagonal Wire Netting 3/4 Inch for Construction - Roofing Insulation Rockwool
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Tianjin
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 10 roll
- Supply Capability:
- 10000 roll/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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