• Roofing Insulation Board - Flexible Ducts S/B K Insulation Mylar Insulation Mylar System 1
  • Roofing Insulation Board - Flexible Ducts S/B K Insulation Mylar Insulation Mylar System 2
  • Roofing Insulation Board - Flexible Ducts S/B K Insulation Mylar Insulation Mylar System 3
  • Roofing Insulation Board - Flexible Ducts S/B K Insulation Mylar Insulation Mylar System 4
  • Roofing Insulation Board - Flexible Ducts S/B K Insulation Mylar Insulation Mylar System 5
Roofing Insulation Board - Flexible Ducts S/B K Insulation Mylar Insulation Mylar

Roofing Insulation Board - Flexible Ducts S/B K Insulation Mylar Insulation Mylar

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
234 g/m
Supply Capability:
234 g/m/month

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Product Material

 

10m length aluminum insulation ventilation duct with low priceis made of aluminum foil +fiberglass+aluminum foi+steel wire

 

 

 

Product Feature

 

8 inch insulated flexible aluminum air duct heating and cooling systems following feature:

 

1.Size.    (Customer's color requirement can be matched)
2.Color.   (Customer's color can be fulfilled )
3.Non-toxic .Harmless to people even long time exposure
4.Excellent light transmission.  transparent rate above 92%
5.Excellent weather resistance.  performance cant be change easily by Sunlight and Rain
6.Excellent Design.Personalized design and Human design with mordent concept

 


Product Advantages

8 inch insulated flexible aluminum air duct heating and cooling systems following advantages:

 

1.Material .environmentally friendly Acrylic
2.High Ruggedness.hard to attrit ,break and damage
3.Good anti-aging Properties .Long Using life Above 5 years
4.Strong Impact resistance .16 times than that of ordinary glass
5.Logo imprinting .Customer's Logo can be imprinted personally
6.OEM.ODM service. Satisfied related service can be offered in short time
7.Competitive price.Price at various level  can cater your various requirement
8.Reasonable Delivery time.Fast to arrive at your office By air or Sea  
9.Sample .Sample available for your proof and final decision
10.Trial Order are hotly welcome and allowed

 

Q:Rather than waste that heat on sunny days during the heating season, can it be used to help heat the home? Otherwise it would just passively be vented out. Has anyone done this? Is it a good idea or not?
not unless you want to be showered with fiberglass particles.
Q:Finally remembering to do so, before my family and I left the house for approximately 4 hours, I turned off the heat before leaving. When we came home I turned it back on, but was shocked to see that the temperature had dropped 4 degrees in that time. 4 degrees in just under 4 hours seems like a lot of heat loss, does it not? I've seen the insulation in our roof and it's just that sawdust looking stuff spread everywhere. I feel like I'm paying a lot of unnecessary dollars for heating: the air does kick on every hour or two and we keep the thermostat at 68.Is it reasonable for me to talk to my landlord about this problem and getting better insulation in the ceiling, and maybe in the roof? (the master bedroom, on the far corner of the house, is always 2-3 degrees below the rest of the house). Are my expectations to not lose a degree of heat or more per hour unreasonable? Would a typical landlord consider this a problem worth discussing?
You can ask and I'm sure the landlord would be happy to have more insulation installed at your expense. There are many factors which contribute to heat loss including how much thermal mass in the home (furnishings, etc.) and how well it absorbs heat, the type of flooring, how well your basement/crawl space is insulated, cold leaks through windows and doors, chimneys, and so on. Then there is the outside ambient temperature to factor in. Personally, I think 4 degrees in 4 hours is very little heat loss. But, that would depend upon what the outside temperature was. Added: The far bedroom is probably the furthest from your heating source. If you have hot water radiant heat and a basement that won't freeze during the toughest times, you can insulate the heating pipes if not already done. Wrapping with newspaper is a cost-effective way of doing it and since the pipe will never get to 451F, there is no danger of it igniting. However, no matter what, the furthest away from the heat source is going to be the coldest. If "far corner" is N, NE, W NW, those are the coldest spots on a house during winter due to lack of sunlight. Here's a tip from my serviceman -- don't turn your furnace too low during the night. There is a break-even point where the energy used to heat up the environment is equal to the energy saved by keeping it at a lower temperature. The range is about 8 degrees on average, but that's here in the NE. This bore out very well last year during a bitterly cold winter that started in October and went well into May when I kept the heat "cranked up" higher at night. I used less fuel than I did the year before, which only had 6 months of normal winter. I used to turn it down to 55 at night, but I turned it down to 62 from 70. I was seriously overdoing it thinking I was doing me and the environment a favor :)
Q:if you had snow and all the snow is off your roof and the house nex store has snow do we need insulation?
remember the front of your house is the back of your neighbors house across the street when looking at the roof
Q:this room has an aluminum roof and hardwood siding. All the heat hit the aluminum roof
With Reynolds wrap.
Q:attic insulation
Blow in insulation is so easy and cost effective, do it yourself. Machines can be rented at Lowes, HD, etc where you buy the material.
Q:I am thinking about getting cavity wall and roof insulation at the moment.But since summer is approaching, I fear that getting the insulation will mean that the house will be very hot at night. (During day time the house will accumulate heat from the sun, and the heat cannot escape).I also fear that the ventilation will be bad and the air in the house will not be as fresh.Any advice please?
Insulation works to keep a home cooler in summer as well as warmer in winter. And the warm months generally mean better conditions for the installation because of less potential moisture, which sometimes forms in uninsulated homes in the freezing cold, being trapped in ceiling and wall cavities. To have your ceiling insulation function properly, attic ventilation is required. This is approx. 1 sq. ft./ clear ventilation to 300 sq. ft. of attic space. More is better than less. You will find your home cooler. Insulation on its own does not change ventilation. This is an air/vapor barrier situation which also should be considered when insulating.
Q:Live in Houston, very hot and humid. Looking at adding radiant and additional insulation to roof in house. We have a lot of sun, and AC bills.
I think you'll get more bang for you buck just going with the radiant barrier and having a continuous ridge vent.
Q:i have roof insulation but if i add more to the required depth the bottom layer will get compressed. Will it still insulate?
Yes, but not as well. the air trapped inside it works as an insulator as much as the fill itself. The weight of insulation on top of it will take away some insulating properties, but it's replaced by the insulating properties of the new insulation, so it's a net gain.
Q:i have about 200 sq ft of odd shaped polystyrene foam (rigid) insulation between 3" and 5" thick. it's leftover from installing a flat roof on a commercial building. creative ideas anyone? grind it and use it as attic insulation in a home?thanks.
put an AD and sell it as material for Accoustic sound proofing,
Q:weather stripping/ foam strip?
I'm assuming your talking about a ridge cap normally you would seal it in with tar or polyurethane caulk and put your shingles over it

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