• Roofing Insulation Blanket - Flexible Ducts Infu FKAB Insulation Mylar System 1
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  • Roofing Insulation Blanket - Flexible Ducts Infu FKAB Insulation Mylar System 4
Roofing Insulation Blanket - Flexible Ducts Infu FKAB Insulation Mylar

Roofing Insulation Blanket - Flexible Ducts Infu FKAB Insulation Mylar

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
234 g/m
Supply Capability:
234 g/m/month

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Product Material

 

10m length aluminum insulation ventilation duct with low priceis made of aluminum foil +fiberglass+aluminum foi+steel wire

 

 

 

Product Feature

 

8 inch insulated flexible aluminum air duct heating and cooling systems following feature:

 

1.Size.    (Customer's color requirement can be matched)
2.Color.   (Customer's color can be fulfilled )
3.Non-toxic .Harmless to people even long time exposure
4.Excellent light transmission.  transparent rate above 92%
5.Excellent weather resistance.  performance cant be change easily by Sunlight and Rain
6.Excellent Design.Personalized design and Human design with mordent concept

 


Product Advantages

8 inch insulated flexible aluminum air duct heating and cooling systems following advantages:

 

1.Material .environmentally friendly Acrylic
2.High Ruggedness.hard to attrit ,break and damage
3.Good anti-aging Properties .Long Using life Above 5 years
4.Strong Impact resistance .16 times than that of ordinary glass
5.Logo imprinting .Customer's Logo can be imprinted personally
6.OEM.ODM service. Satisfied related service can be offered in short time
7.Competitive price.Price at various level  can cater your various requirement
8.Reasonable Delivery time.Fast to arrive at your office By air or Sea  
9.Sample .Sample available for your proof and final decision
10.Trial Order are hotly welcome and allowed

 

Q: Our roof tile is installed on top of galvanized iron sheets. We do not have any toher form of insulation. The roof tile or tegula is quite thick.
Absolutely. You will find in the summer that your tiles will heat up from the sun and will stay hot even after dark (the steel sheets don't exactly help either). Your energy bills will go down about 60% in the summer and 20% in the winter by just installing a cheap fiberglass filling. A good example of how these tiles are effecting you house would be a stoneware cup. Pour hot water into it and place it in the microwave until it boils. Feel that the side are very hot, too hot to hold (this represents the sun heating up the tiles). Now pour out that cup and fill it with cold water (which would represent AC in your home). In about 2 or three minutes, place your finger in the stoneware cup. The water will be warm. The tiles do the same thing. The absorb and distribute heat into your home during the warm months, and will rob your home of it's heat during the winter and cool months. Just by placing insulation in your home, you stop that unwanted heat exchange with your home and the outside world.
Q: I live in central florida. I plan on installing R-30 insulation to the floor of my attic. How effective is it to install reflective insulation to the attic on the roof side? Is it worth the price?
No dont add to the roof. The under side of the roof needs air flow and you will trap moisture, causing mold and rot. Make sure you have plenty of vents under your eaves and take your extra money and buy a solar powered attic fan (or 2 ) Mark
Q: How do I adequately insulate my attic roof to make the space a bit more habitable in the winter? The floors to the living area below are already insulated and we have a gable mounted fan which is great in the summer. I am thinking of adding insulation to the roof with baffles underneath for air circulation through the soffit vents. Am I anywhere near an idea that may work?
What you could do is line inbetween the roof trusses with fibre wool and then fix heavy cardboard sheets over them to keep them in place. Alternatively you could engage the services of a specialist company who will come and strip off your tiles/slates whatever and spray an insulating foam on the inside thus sealing everything in place.
Q: Hello, this is quite an ordeal I've got. I am renting a cabin that has galvanized metal sheets as roofing. These are of course nailed into large wooden beans that run all acrooss.The owner and I made a deal, that deal is that I will put up insulation on the roof. However, she wants to put (i don't knw what they are called) big rectangular styrofam blocks (about 3x9 feet long). She wants me to cut them up to a width where they will feet in between the wooden beams and somehow secure them on. My idea of securing them is by nailing a plastic covering over them. but I am unsure about how to do the rest. How will i get the blocks to stay put if i cannot nail them? is there a better and CHEAP way to do it?As of now, if you look up you see the wooden beams and the tin metal roof. She wants it to be insulated and not visible.
The foamboard can be installed in between the beams Do NOT use adhesives to fasten the foamboards or drywall. The adhesive will deteriorate over time and the foamboards and drywall will fall down. Many municipalities do not allow materials to be attached only by adhesives especially on walls and ceilings. Nail or screw 1 X 3 or 1 X 4 boards under the foamboard from beam to beam spaced about 16 inches apart. Screw drywall for fireproofing to the 1 X 3s or 4s and this will also hide the foam boards. Tape and seal the joints
Q: hot because of all the added insulation. Is that what the insulation will do? Someone told me that it will save us on our cooling/heating bills, and that it will be warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer now. Is this true?
Insulation stops heat from being transferred across it. Therefore, if it's cold outside and warm inside, it will stay warm inside because the heat can't get out. Likewise, if it's hot outside and cool inside, the heat can't get in so it stays cool inside. The exact same principles are used in vacuum flasks that keep coffee or soup hot. If you put cold drinks in there, they will stay cold instead, even on a hot day. The principle used in both cases is to stop heat from being able to travel to or from the inside to the outside. In a vacuum flask, they achieve this by using a double walled flask and sucking out all the air (leaving a vacuum). In a house however, it's not practical to do this (except for windows which is how double glazing works) so they use some sort of substance that traps large amounts of air in it (like fibreglass or polyester batts) to achieve the same effect. Hope this helps. TV
Q: We have plenty down at the center, so many, you can carpet a garden. So, since I'll have to tear down the roof and improve the insulation in a few months, I was thinking of adding one extra layer... of emergency blankets. Since they can reflect the sun's heat up, and the heat under it down, will they do that for a whole house? Will the plastic film cause water condensation? If you wouldn't recommend it, then what would you recommend?
They may help, but as thin as they are, installing them would be about as easy as putting socks on a rooster!
Q: Finally remembering to do so, before my family and I left the house for approximately 4 hours, I turned off the heat before leaving. When we came home I turned it back on, but was shocked to see that the temperature had dropped 4 degrees in that time. 4 degrees in just under 4 hours seems like a lot of heat loss, does it not? I've seen the insulation in our roof and it's just that sawdust looking stuff spread everywhere. I feel like I'm paying a lot of unnecessary dollars for heating: the air does kick on every hour or two and we keep the thermostat at 68.Is it reasonable for me to talk to my landlord about this problem and getting better insulation in the ceiling, and maybe in the roof? (the master bedroom, on the far corner of the house, is always 2-3 degrees below the rest of the house). Are my expectations to not lose a degree of heat or more per hour unreasonable? Would a typical landlord consider this a problem worth discussing?
The roof (assume pitched) doesn't need insulating it's above the attic above the ceilings of all the rooms that need 12 inch of mineral wool insulation to stop heat loss (you may have less thickness not all insulation is to the correct standards) Also if as I suspect the walls of your home are timber with shiplap (and not solid brick / cavity walls) they also require insulation top up. From a google search there is state wide Government grants for insulating homes, could be available in your state? using blown insulation to walls/ceilings. If you decide to install it yourself the payback is excellent -in 12 months depending on fuel cost and what existing insulation (from your description minimal) The landlord could be entitled to increase your lease costs if he takes the work on as he has greatly improved the thermal insulation which will reduce your heating costs and make his property more valuable to lease.
Q: we want to put a model railway up in the loft,and i like the idea of having white plastic cladding throughout up there,my hubby is insulating the roof tomorrow,but he prefers plasterboard,at least the cladding will be maintenance free,
i think it might be able to pass code if you ever sell the house.i myself would use sheets of white wainscoting.also make sure the insulation if it has a paper backing ,paper faces the room.
Q: i have about 200 sq ft of odd shaped polystyrene foam (rigid) insulation between 3" and 5" thick. it's leftover from installing a flat roof on a commercial building. creative ideas anyone? grind it and use it as attic insulation in a home?thanks.
put an AD and sell it as material for Accoustic sound proofing,
Q: I added a screened room to my mobile home. I also have vinyl windows. in the summer the sun beats down on the home almost all day Someone told me I could have insulation installed in the roof panels, and that i may even be able to do it myself. Right now it's impossible to enjoy my patio between 1-5pm because it so hot you can't breath. I'm in the Pasco, FL area - 34667Appreciate any help you can give
I agree with RustyNail that the panels are thin and not meant to support that kind of weight. But, I think a wall anchor that spreads the weight inside the foam would work if that's the only place to attach. I'm imagining that there's no wall available since these usually are just supported at the ends. If so, then my first suggestion would be no curtains at all. My second would be to find a long wall anchor. With 6" of foam, I would think you could do a 4" long anchor and get pretty good support. Rusty may disagree.

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