• flexible ducts S/B FAKE insulation mylar System 1
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flexible ducts S/B FAKE insulation mylar

flexible ducts S/B FAKE insulation mylar

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
234 g/m
Supply Capability:
234 g/m/month

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Product Material

 

10m length aluminum insulation ventilation duct with low priceis made of aluminum foil +fiberglass+aluminum foi+steel wire

 

 

 

Product Feature

 

8 inch insulated flexible aluminum air duct heating and cooling systems following feature:

 

1.Size.    (Customer's color requirement can be matched)
2.Color.   (Customer's color can be fulfilled )
3.Non-toxic .Harmless to people even long time exposure
4.Excellent light transmission.  transparent rate above 92%
5.Excellent weather resistance.  performance cant be change easily by Sunlight and Rain
6.Excellent Design.Personalized design and Human design with mordent concept

 


Product Advantages

8 inch insulated flexible aluminum air duct heating and cooling systems following advantages:

 

1.Material .environmentally friendly Acrylic
2.High Ruggedness.hard to attrit ,break and damage
3.Good anti-aging Properties .Long Using life Above 5 years
4.Strong Impact resistance .16 times than that of ordinary glass
5.Logo imprinting .Customer's Logo can be imprinted personally
6.OEM.ODM service. Satisfied related service can be offered in short time
7.Competitive price.Price at various level  can cater your various requirement
8.Reasonable Delivery time.Fast to arrive at your office By air or Sea  
9.Sample .Sample available for your proof and final decision
10.Trial Order are hotly welcome and allowed

 

Q:the noise when it rains is very loud. can I place an insulation material under the polycarbonate roof to reduce noise? Thanks
You can put it up there, but it's effectiveness at cutting noise would depend on the thickness of the insulation but you should not hope for too much reduction as the hard poly roofing is screwed or nailed directly to the rafters and is a good medium for sound transference.
Q:does insulation, with a high R value, in the attic prolong the life of the shingles on the roof.
no. attic ventilation can do this
Q:I've found lots of building forums and general "building advice" columns that go over very high-level pros/cons to choosing roofing material and insulation options, but I want a site where I can see hard costs of ordering each of the materials so I don't have to call up a ton of contractors or dealers. Does such a comparison site exist? Everyone offers quotes, but that takes too much time to apply for quotes to every dealer.I'm specifically interested in knowing what green options I can afford (cotton batting vs. formaldehyde-free fiberglass, etc.).
It's in euro's but you can convert or get the idea. Also, you have to click on the graphs to get a more clearer image.
Q:this room has an aluminum roof and hardwood siding. All the heat hit the aluminum roof
The best method is with a spray on expanding foam insulation. It will stick to the ceiling and has a very good R Factor (how the construction industry measures the insulation factor). Any other method will involve building an interior ceiling or penetrating the roof, which will cause water damage.
Q:what's the best insulation for ceilling for house with semi flat roof?
The pitch of your roof has nothing to do with the kind of insulation you should use. I recommend a fiberglass insulation that is at least 6 inches thick, the more you put in the better.
Q:My new room is an addition to a mobile home, and has a single-layer metal roof. I have 3 "main" concerns. What are the cheapest and/or most effective ways of eliminating them?1. No heat insulation- cold air sinks from the roof to my room, and my warm air rises to the roof and cools.2. Condensation forms on the inside and drips occasionally. My computer, bike, and downhill boards are in here!3. It seems like bugs could easily get into my room, but that's just a suspicion.
You really need a correct "building paper" under the iron. It is aluminum with a tar sandwiched between...You can also use plastic sheeting as a vapor barrier..
Q:I know you're not supposed to directly insulate the roof due to the roof getting super heated in the summer, but my walk-in (actually, more like "crawl in") attic is very hot in the summer and very cold in the winter. Is there anything I can do to improve efficiency? I can't help but think I'm wasting a lot of energy just to keep my roof lasting a little longer.
You can avoid the condensation problem by simply leaving a minimum 2'' gap between the roof and the insulation. You need to fix battens on to the rafters ( at least 2'' from the tiles ) and then fix blanket or rigid insulation tight between them. The battens will maintain the air space. You then need to fix a vapour barrier over the whole thing and finish with plasterboard. No small job to do it properly ! ps you need to check the condition of the roof before you start and fix any loose tiles etc Alternatively, turn the heating up and wear a thicker sweater.
Q:Have a patio with metal roof, gets very hot during summer. Will Great Stuff insulate and stick to hot roof during summer? Thanks
Probably could, but it would look like crap. Painting the roof white would do a better job of keeping the metal cooler. I'd install a ceiling fan in the center of the roof instead to force the hot air out.
Q:I do not have extra space on the roof. Roof also tapers to drains at one end of building.
Nope. The DOW rigid insulation is an R-5/inch. So 4 inches gets you an R-20. Sorry.
Q:do i leave air gap in attic roof for insulation?
The best way to set up an attic is to put a vapor barrier under the rafters (before nailing on the gyproc), then put the insulation (fibreglas batts) between the rafters to full depth (10 or 12 inches). Soffit vents are installed under the eaves at the sides of the roof, and gable vents are placed near the peak of the roof at the ends. This allows for airflow resulting from convection, particularly important in the summer months to remove heat buildup in the attic. If the insulation is adequate, it will not only isolate this heat buildup from the inside of the house in summer, but will prevent heat loss to the attic in winter. (The airflow in winter will be minimal, but will remove any moisture/condensation that might collect otherwise.)

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