• Tlx Gold Multifoil Roofing Insulation - Good Quality Rock Wool for Thermal Insulation System 1
  • Tlx Gold Multifoil Roofing Insulation - Good Quality Rock Wool for Thermal Insulation System 2
  • Tlx Gold Multifoil Roofing Insulation - Good Quality Rock Wool for Thermal Insulation System 3
  • Tlx Gold Multifoil Roofing Insulation - Good Quality Rock Wool for Thermal Insulation System 4
Tlx Gold Multifoil Roofing Insulation - Good Quality Rock Wool for Thermal Insulation

Tlx Gold Multifoil Roofing Insulation - Good Quality Rock Wool for Thermal Insulation

Ref Price:
$5.00 - 10.00 / m² get latest price
Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
1000 m²
Supply Capability:
10000000000 m²/month

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Good Quality Rock Wool Price For Thermal Insulation

1.Structure of Good Quality Rock Wool Price For Thermal Insulation

Rock wool insulation refers to a type of insulation that is made from actual rocks and minerals. It also goes by the names of stone wool insulation, mineral wool insulation, or slag wool insulation. A wide range of products can be made from rock wool, due to its excellent ability to block sound and heat. This type of insulation is commonly used in building construction, industrial plants, and in automotive applications.

 

The Manufacturing Process

Melting / Forming into fibers /Continuous-filament process/Staple-fiber process/ Chopped fiber/ Rock wool / Protective coatings /Forming into shapes

2.Main Features of Good Quality Rock Wool Price For Thermal Insulation

● FEATURES

Thermal Insulation

Fire Safety

Acoustic Control

No Corrosion

Environmental friendly

Moisture Resistance

Energy Conservation & Emissions Reduction

Different raw material: Our rock wool is mainly made by Basalt and other natural ores. The raw material for other so-called rock wool is mineral slag. Different raw material, different features.

Different corrosion resistance. Our rock wool have good corrosion resistance. non-corrosive for metal. But the mineral slag wool is different. In high humidity environment, CaS in mineral slag will have chemical reactions and produce corrosive when contact with metal.

Different working life. The working life for mineral slag is very short and Durability is very low because of higher CaO and MgO in slag. The efflorescence for mineral Slag is easy and also effect the working life. The

Different heat resisting. The heat resisting for rock wool(Basalt) is higher than mineral Slag wool. Our operating temperature can reach 800.But for Slag wool ,can not higher than 675.The features for our rock wool is totally superior to Slag wool.

3. Good Quality Rock Wool Price For Thermal Insulation Images

 

 

4. Good Quality Rock Wool Price For Thermal Insulation Specification

ROCK WOOL BLANKET & BOARD

Standard Size

Product Blanket Board

Density (kg/m3) 60-100 40-200

Size: L x W (mm) 1200X3000-6000 600X1200

Thickness (mm) 30-150 30-100

Remark:

Other sizes are available upon request.

Facing materials can be applied upon request.

 

Standard Size

Product Blanket Board

Density (kg/m3) 60-100 40-200

Size: L x W (mm) 1200X3000-6000 600X1200

Thickness (mm) 30-150 30-100

Remark:

Other sizes are available upon request.

Facing materials can be applied upon request.

Rock wool PIPE

Standard Size

DIA Thickness (mm)

inch mm 25 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 120 150

1/2’’ 22

3/4’’ 27

1’’ 34

1-1/4’’ 43

1-1/2’’ 48

2’’ 60

2-1/2’’ 76

3’’ 89

3-1/2’’ 108

4’’ 114

5’’ 140

6’’ 169

8’’ 219

10’’ 273

12’’ 325

14’’ 356

15’’ 381

16’’ 406

18’’ 456

19’’ 483

20’’ 508

22’’ 558

24’’ 610

 5.FAQ

We have organized several common questions for our clientsmay help you sincerely

①     What’s the mainly material for rock wool

Rock wool is called a mineral wool because it is made primarily from basalt, an igneous rock,

What’s the mainly type for rock wool

rock wool insulating products are available in loose-fill form and as batting. Batts, or blankets, are thick slabs of insulation that may have a kraft paper facing.

How you control the quality?

During the production of fiberglass insulation, material is sampled at a number of locations in the process to maintain quality.

 

Q: I know you're not supposed to directly insulate the roof due to the roof getting super heated in the summer, but my walk-in (actually, more like "crawl in") attic is very hot in the summer and very cold in the winter. Is there anything I can do to improve efficiency? I can't help but think I'm wasting a lot of energy just to keep my roof lasting a little longer.
The reason you do not put insulation directly on the underside of your roof is all about moisture and mold. You need an air gap between the roof and the insulation and allow it to breath. This prevents moisture from condensation that can cause big problems. You could install a radiant barrier that reflects the heat. Do a google search to learn more about it. You could install and attic fan to suck the hot air out in the summer. Most important is to make sure the insulation on the attic floor is the proper thickness.
Q: Live in Houston, very hot and humid. Looking at adding radiant and additional insulation to roof in house. We have a lot of sun, and AC bills.
I think you'll get more bang for you buck just going with the radiant barrier and having a continuous ridge vent.
Q: I am really confused about this science stuff! Sustainability is terrible xP
All versions of insulation are largely air that is kept from moving - air is a good insulator if convection - movement of heated or cooled air due to changes of density - is prevented. This assumes that a vapor barrier and caulking prevent actual air movement through the wall when a wind is blowing. Some insulators are also poor conductors of heat so the connection between inside and outside that might occur is broken. As it happens, glass used in fiberglass and minerals used in rock wool are actually pretty good conductors of heat in solid form but as fine particles and flakes they don't conduct well from one strand/piece to the next.
Q: the best way to thermal insulate and water proofing of rcc slabs economical, may be some poly urethane material or whatever but should be very effective and light weight.
POROSIL A specially graded Light Weight Insulating Aggregate for loose fill insulation in Cavity Wall and over Suspended/False Ceiling. # 100% inorganic and Asbestos free. It will not rot, emit odours or attract vermin. # Light in weight and easy to handle. # POROSIL is the only insulating material which is Non-toxic and non-flammable at the time of fire. # Reduces unwanted heat flow making living comfortable. # Reduces the Air Conditioning Power Consumption upto 20 to 30%
Q: I am building a porch roof over an existing patio. The rafters are fabricated I-beams. I plan on putting aluminum soffit under the I-beams. On top of the roof I would like to put down a metal roof. I already put down 3/4" OSB and a rain/ice barrier. Do I need insulation and/or ventilation on top of the rain and ice barrier, or can I get away without it?
You don't need insulation for this application. If you haven't purchased the metal yet I would recommend looking for a standing seam roof system that the panel does not come in contact with the substrate and does not use exposed fasteners. If in the future you did decide to enclose the porch and add heat you could insulate the ceiling and leave an air space under the decking that could be ventilated from the eave to the ridge. A cold roof assembly with proper ventilation will dramatically reduce the potential of the metal panels sweating.
Q: The distance between knee wall and attic ceiling is about 6 foot. Could I push a perforated pipe between the rafters?
That is an option. And there aren't many options.Not much is going to slide easily behind the insulation. I'm thinking --------------------. You are undoubtedly going to snag on roof nails coming through the decking. I don't know if they would hold up but the cardboard tubes wrapping paper comes on might work if you tape 2 together. and flatten and tape the end you will be pushing in first. cut slots with utility knife. I think your idea would work if you can afford the pipe. That's a tough one. When we convert attics we line those cavities with a styrofoam insulation chute end to end until we reach open ventilation-you probably know that by now. Give it a try.
Q: roof was replaced eight years ago soon after there were leaks in the roof caused insulation toget wet then dry now the insulation is packed hard and has started to turn into power who would be responsible to replace the insulation.
Sorry; I don't know of any roofer that would take responsabilty after eight years. Unless your insurance might be an option. Check with them and decide if your deductable is more than the repair if you would be better off doing it yourself. I would also be concerned about underlying materials, sheet rock, lumber, MOLD. You need someone to check thoroughly for mold being as it has been so long. GOod luck; Flip;
Q: Hello, this is quite an ordeal I've got. I am renting a cabin that has galvanized metal sheets as roofing. These are of course nailed into large wooden beans that run all acrooss.The owner and I made a deal, that deal is that I will put up insulation on the roof. However, she wants to put (i don't knw what they are called) big rectangular styrofam blocks (about 3x9 feet long). She wants me to cut them up to a width where they will feet in between the wooden beams and somehow secure them on. My idea of securing them is by nailing a plastic covering over them. but I am unsure about how to do the rest. How will i get the blocks to stay put if i cannot nail them? is there a better and CHEAP way to do it?As of now, if you look up you see the wooden beams and the tin metal roof. She wants it to be insulated and not visible.
Visit your local Lowes, Ace, or Home Depot. Buy a caulking gun and a few tubes of industrial grade adhesive from their large selection. Read the label and choose an adhesive that mentions both plastic and metal. (If I were doing it, I would try some silicon on the Styrofoam and if it doesn't melt, use silicon, but there are dozens of different adhesives on the shelves.) Once you have the right adhesive, cut the foam to fit snugly between the roof members, and stick them up. To cover the Styrofoam, use any lightweight material you can find. I would try to find wall paper that simulates barn-board. (I have seen it somewhere.) Just apply a coat of wallpaper sizing to the Styrofoam first to give the wallpaper glue something to stick to. Most wallpapers already have the glue on the back; you just run it thru water to wet it. I use a large paint roller tray with a piece of stiff wire across it. Then I drop my cut to length strip of paper in the deep end of the tray and pull it thru under the wire. Have fun. Honey
Q: I have a valley between two roof peaks that gets a huge icicle every year. I know this area is not insulated very well. In the house it is a dead area between two rooms. I would like to get someone over here and blow it full of insulation (couple calls in, awaiting response). In the meantime, I do have heat tapes installed on the roof in this area. It's a 50' run, zigzagged and some goes into gutter and the downspout.I am paranoid of fire hazards and have a real problem leaving these tapes plugged in. That being said, I realize snow is all around and water is flowing in this case. Is it safe to leave these plugged in?Is there a time I should be unplugging?Will this help my icicle problem?Serious replies only please. I prefer from a licensed contractor/insulator.Thanks in advance.
I have never experienced a problem with heat tape. as long as it is in good shape and you have it plugged into a GFI, I personally wouldn't worry about it to much at all. your roof gets hotter in the summer with the sun beating on it then the heat tape can create. so it starting a fire would be unlikely. the lack of insulation in that area is compounding your problem. so get that taking care of if you can. heat tape is melting snow and ice, melting snow and ice makes ice cycles. the heat tape in the gutter will help to keep the gutters clear allowing the water to flow down the spout so in theory it should not create as many ice cycles as without the tape. again the lack of insulation is allowing more snow to melt from heat loss through the roof. hope this helped, good luck
Q: attic is 400 sq ft.there are 4 round 6'' Vents in soffit,and 2 roof vents-12"x12".Rock wool,blown in,R/30 NO VAPOR BARRIER.Why the mold?no gable or ridge vent either.How do i fix this?There are baffles in attic,rafters are not blocked.
is your HVAV unit in the attic?Is the moisture coming from it? Also-ridge vents help allow proper ventilation.

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