• PVC Eletrical wire 1.5mm2 -- 10 mm2 System 1
  • PVC Eletrical wire 1.5mm2 -- 10 mm2 System 2
  • PVC Eletrical wire 1.5mm2 -- 10 mm2 System 3
PVC Eletrical wire 1.5mm2 -- 10 mm2

PVC Eletrical wire 1.5mm2 -- 10 mm2

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1). Voltage: 300/500V
2). Application:electric equipment, household, and electrical appliance.
3). Specification (Electrial wires series include the following) :
* Solid copper (or aluminum) conductor, PVC insulated single core electrical wire
* Stranded copper conductor, PVC insulated single core electrical wire
* Solid copper conductor, PVC insulated and PVC sheathed round multi-core electrical wire
* Solid or stranded copper conductor, PVC insulated and PVC sheathed flat electrical wire(two cores or three cores)
Norminal cross section size of conductor:
1.5mm2 -- 10 mm2
4) rate temperature: 90°c
5).Package
A reel = 100m
margin of error: ±0.5%

Q: I am not sure of the reason but when i plugged in the power cable there was a crackling sound only for a second and then it stopped. I remember a similar occurennce when i had a loose electrical circuit would this have done any harm to the computer.
Check your connections, if there is nothing visibly wrong, i would try to plug other appliances into the socket and see if the same sound thingy happens, if not i suggest sending your computer for a check, or try to minimise the amount of times you plug your computer in and out of the wall
Q: can we use welding cable to hook up amp in our car?rated 200amp
There is no need for a 200 amp cable. most of the time 75 to 100 amps is more than enough. Just go to the local car audio store and pick up a amp kit. (Depending on amp size depends on price) The local Wal-Mart sales them as well. You'll spend between $25-$100 for a good amp kit. Amp Kit 1 power wire 1 ground wire 1 set of RCA for audio from sterio to amp 1 fuse.
Q: I have an electrical source 220 Kv or 380 KV at site X and want to pull cables to site Y to privde electricity for this Y site for general lighting and power sockets.So what is the max distance for the cables i can pull from site X without voltage drop affect the voltage or power at site Y.
You are not providing enough information. 220 KV can provide power of TENS of miles on reasonably modest cable PROVIDING the current drain is not too high. Sorry but the idea of anyone playing around with almost .4 MV without the first idea about loading / cable diameter / insualtion requirements scares the crap out of me! Without the required information, all I can say is With the right cable at 380KV , hundreds of miles As an aside, if this is a temorary site, then the cost of buying generator will be WAY cheaper than the cost of the cable and transformers you wil require to turn 380Kv into 110 / 220V If a permenent fixture, then suggest for normal lighting and sockets (as in no industrial smelting plants!), then you would eed to be dropping the voltage either at the 380kv site OR at least some distance from the new fixture. Houses do not typically have .4 MV coming into the cellar. It might arc a few metres you see if the air is a little humid. Make things a bit dodgy. **UPDATE** Ok, thanks for clarifying the voltage. Now we also know power too -so at 220v, and about 12KW we are looking at VERY roughly 55 Amps. 25mm cable ought to be good for a couple of hundred metres or so. 16mm for upto 50 metres or so. If a LOT further than that, then either go with three phase/380 OR up the size of the cable. Problem is it can start getting pricey. The shorter the run, the lighter the cable can be - to a point - would NOT suggest going below 10mm under ANY circumstances. You will always get SOME voltage drop, but providing it is in the order of a couple of volts here and there, there is no appreciable waste / heat generation. Is this a fixed installation or a temporary one - if temporary and a fair distance away I would STILL be inclined to sugges a genset hire might work out cheaper than drums of suitable cable.
Q: I need to select a power cord for a computer and other appliances (like a printer). Power cords usually have their amps and voltage (capacities?) imprinted on the outside. What is the rule of thumb for selecting a power cord and why?For example, if my printer has the following requirements:Power Source AC 120V 50/60 HzPower Consumption - 5W-350WWhat amp/voltage type of power cord will do the job?I am of course concerned about overloading the cord with too much electric requirements.(People who actually know this matter SPECIFICALLY only need to reply; please excuse if the electric language is not used right.)
The power cables themselves don't have much bearing on Power Source AC 120V 50/60 Hz (Your typical household outlet) You couldn't acciddentally plug it into a 220 line anyway. Power Consumption - 5W-350w -- How many watts of power it draws from the socket. Typically the thicker guaged wire is better to use, as it has less impedance or so I've been told.
Q: I live in the Arizona desert, on a flood plain. Most of the time things are pretty dry. But during monsoon season the area I live in experiences flooding. I am planning a shallow, square, sunken pond. The main pond will be 4.10' L x 4.11' W x 3' deep. I plan to build an 8wide wall around the pond to keep out flood water. The wall will be made of standard red bricks. I plan to make the wall 2-3 bricks high. This would make the wall itself around 5-7 inches tall. The foundation for the wall will be concrete. Do I need a waterproof concrete sealant for the foundation? I plan on installing a power cable for my submersible filter between the EPDM liner I plan to use, and the mortar for my brick wall. Should I use sand between the mortar and the cable to protect the cable from the mortar? The cable will be encased in PVC as well.Thank you.
You should use a concrete sealant, it can't hurt. Put the cable under the foundation in PVC and it will be fine.
Q: I have a SATA DVD burner SATA 160GB HD .... but the PSU only comes with ONE SATA power connector .... great ..I was thinking about buying a SATA host controller card ... but I found out that that will only give me more SATA ports and take up one of my PCI slots LOLThen I was thinking about returning my SATA DVD burner for an IDE DVD burner ...
confident you go with as many SATA cables as complicated drives. potential for the HDDR's comes from the potential supply. confident you diskpersistent demands potential from the potential supply. i think of for the GFX card you're taking some 6 pin PCIe connector returned potential supply.
Q: What cable am I supposed to use for power?
That kind, it's kind of hard to see on the OKorder pic. Usually your switch should come with a console cable and the power cord, unless you bought it used. The person probably kept it.
Q: I bought a microphone that requires a phantom power source and I want to connect the mic to my computer using a XLR to USB cable. Will the USB/XLR cable also power my mic or do I need to buy an additional power source?
But there are many more interfaces and you should pick the one that best suites your needs. Personally I use the M-Audio FireWire 410 which has a lot of other connectors besides 2x XLR like SPDIF and MIDI. cheers.
Q: I never expected this problem,but I have an HP with a liteon power supply.The thing has these weird clips on the power cables that go into the hard drive.How do I free the hard drive power cables? I have to put in a new power supply for my video card.
SATA just pulls out.. actually so does molex connectors (for IDE drives).. just very tough sometimes to get them out. If its black and kinda thin, then its probably SATA and they should just pull straight out.
Q: One of my ottocinclus is munching on a little brown algae that's on the aquarium heater's power cable. Not dangerous, I guess? I don't think they can actually bite through it and expose the wire...?
No problem, it's just scraping the algae off. Might get though the cable itself in couple of 100 years or so, so nothing to worry about. Ian

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