• PVC Coated Wire  with good reputation System 1
  • PVC Coated Wire  with good reputation System 2
  • PVC Coated Wire  with good reputation System 3
PVC Coated Wire  with good reputation

PVC Coated Wire with good reputation

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PVC coated iron wire offers excellent corrision resistance and anti-aging property and longer service life compare with common galvanized iron wire. Different colors available for customers choice s another benefit of PVC coated wire.


PVC coated wire
Wire DiameterBWG10-24  0.5MM-3.5MM
Tensile strength30-70kg/mm2
Elongation Rate10%-25%
Packing0.1-800kg/coil,plastic inside and hassian outside/ weave outside
Optional Information
HS Code7217200000 Wire of Iron or Non-alloy Steel
PaymentL/C or T/T
LoadingTianjin port
OriginChina
Minimum Order20 Ton


Q: I need to know about the fuseable link. and or wiring diagrams.
depending on how it was set up to the solenoid, you could have two or three wires, including the battery cable. that large wire goes from the b terminal on the starter to the battery positive. there is also an i terminal on some, that is a wire that goes from that terminal to the ignition coil indirectly for a full 12 volts or close to it while cranking. the last terminal should be the s terminal. it goes back to the ignition switch.if you only get a single solid click, i think the solenoid is a good potential for the problem. if you pull that off and remove the plastic cover at one end, you will find the moving contact section. either flip that copper piece around or use a fine file or sand paper to clean it up along with the contacts in the cap itself. after all of that is clean, reassemble and bench test it before you reinstall it. if it cranks over well and at high enough a speed, then install it. if not, check the battery and then maybe have the starter tested at a shop. if you reinstall it and it still only gives you a solid click, then see if you can crank the engine over with a socket on the crank. bolt. if that does not work, then pull all of the plugs and try again.
Q: i want technical names of the electrical equipments rheostat,wire wound
1) Anvil Dome, Backsheared Anvil 2) Dust Devils 3) Waterspouts 4) Funnel clouds
Q: I am replacing an outside floodlight, the cable from the house has 4 wires (black, brown, grey and yellow), but the floodlight has the standard 3 live, neutral and earth fitting. How would I wire the new floodlight.. the wiring for the old floodlight is less than a year old on a house rewire.Thanks!
Four wire power cables used to be used for 2 and 3 phase power. You would normally provide floodlight power with the use of 3 wires. How long is the cable length from house to floodlights? I would look to see what your source wire colors are and try to match those. It used to be in the USA that the red wire was used to carry the 120/240 Volts AC (50 ~ 60~ Herz). The Black wire was considered the return or negative line; and if you have a green wire it is used to put an earth ground on all the shielding, metal jackets, etc.
Q: I'm not sure what kind of wire to use to make wire rings. I had found 50ft of thin wire for a cheap price from city mill. Is there a difference between wire from city mill and wire from Walmart or Ben Franklin? I went to Walmart yesterday and the wire was expensive for such a short length. Am I able to use wire from city mill or is it different from wire you would get from a craft store? To me, wire is wire but i really don't know much about crafts.
There okorder /
Q: what wires are my speaker wires going to and coming from the factory amp and how do i hook them up please help i drive a 96' ford exploder
aamp of america has a psa interface part# BHA 5511. It works great The other way is to rewire from the psa to the radio. The psa is over the r rr wheel well (a real pain in the butt to get to)
Q: On what actually does ampere depends, thickness of wire or number of turns of wire or what else? Electrical
Your okorder /... and get ohms/1000 ft for the size of wire you select. Also check fusing current while you are there. Eg, #30 has 105 ohms/1000'. So if you have 10' of wire, it's resistance would be 105/100 = 1.05 ohms. Once you have the resistance, use ohms law and the voltage applied to calculate current. For 12 volts, I = 12/1.05 or 11 amps. Fusing current is 10 amps (which is in the open, not in a coil) so you need more length or thicker wire. For AC, and coils, you need more complicated calculations.
Q: Both wires are black. One has what looks like white paint on it.
correct.....both can be hot, as they may have been cris crossed from point to point. the best is to get a volt meter and test to your water pipe if its grounded and not eroded away over the years. problem with using an inductance tester is it may give an erroneous reading if they have been cris crossed. note.....once you find the hot of the two, the other bing the neitral will have a current on it that can be fatal, remember there is no ground to protect you, and if your in water or touching something metallic, you may be the ground path needed to complete the circuit. be careful!
Q: i'm building a race car out of a buick century and the tail lights wires got cut, come to find out the fuel pump ties into the talight wiring harness, i found the wires going to the fuel pump but i'm not sure what is what, there's 4 wires going to it, black, black with a white strip, gray, and pur any ideas what is what please so i can just run a switch to the fuel pump... thanks
Examine the wires at the fuel pump junction on top of the fuel tank. I'd bet one of the wires is the GREY wire. Another way you can determine which is which, get a Digital Volt Meter (DVM) and turn on the lights. Check to see which line has power. That's the line for the tail lights. Then have someone step on the brake pedal. Another wire should go hot (have voltage on the DVM). Slowly you will be able to figure out which wire does what. The left over wires (likely two) are for the fuel pump. Good luck. :)
Q: I'm doin this thing where I need to connect some wires and one part uses Apple iPod headphones. Inside those wires, they have insulation. I burnt the wires so the insulation would not be in the way. Will the wires still conduct the electricity? Or will I just need to find some other headphones without insulation to do this with?
It would help to know exactly what you're trying to do here. Like Gary said, I'm not sure what you mean by inside those wires they have insulation. I'm trying to guess what you're trying to do here and you say you need to connect some wires. Are you trying to connect two sets of insulated wires together? If so, I'm guessing that you needed to strip the insulation off of the ends of the wires to expose the conductors and connect together? If that's the case, usually we use a wire stripper or a small razor blade to cut the insulator around the wire and then pull off the sheath, leaving clean wire underneath. Burning the insulation off is not going to make copper wire not work (if you oxidized the copper, you'd have to heat it way hotter than a typical flame, and it would not be metal any more--it would be crispy). So if you still have flexible metal left over after burning off the insulation, then you still have a conductor. The problem, and the reason why we don't usually burn off insulation is that you're going to end up with a bunch of burnt up goo and oxides on the surface of your wire which will make it not connect well with another wire surface to surface. You can probably solve this problem by lightly sanding or scratching the burnt parts of the wires. Or just cut off the burnt part and try stripping it with a blade instead. Then make sure to insulate your connection with electrical tape or something so that you don't have bare wires that can touch each other and short out. If you're trying to do something different, please explain more. In general, though, you're not going to ruin copper by burning it, but you will tend to coat the outside of the wire with stuff that doesn't insulate well. You want shiny copper when you are connecting two pieces together.
Q: I have a 2000 Mazda 626, and I am replacing the factory stereo with a Sony CDX-GT66UPW, I tried replacing it earlier and had to cut off the end plastic pieces for the original stereo wires and stripped the wires, So now I am trying to match up the wires from the new stereo with the old colors, But I don't know what color goes to what on the mazda? Can anyone give me a color coded diagram for the wiring?
2000 Mazda 626 Car Stereo Radio Wiring Diagram Car Radio Constant 12V+ Wire: Blue/Red Car Radio Ignition Switched 12V+ Wire: Blue/White Car Radio Ground Wire: Chassis Car Stereo Illumination Wire: Red/Black Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A Car Stereo Amplifier Trigger Wire: N/A Front Speakers Size: 6″ x 8″ Speakers Front Speakers Location: Doors Left Front Speaker Wire (+): Green/Orange Left Front Speaker Wire (-): Green/Black Right Front Speaker Wire (+): Green Right Front Speaker Wire (-): Yellow/Green Rear Speakers Size: 6″ x 9″ Speakers Rear Speakers Location: Rear Deck Left Rear Speaker Wire (+): Blue/Green Left Rear Speaker Wire (-): Blue Right Rear Speaker Wire (+): Blue/Black Right Rear Speaker Wire (-): Blue/Orange

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