Pure Nickel wires high strength a quality

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 10000 m

Supply Capability:: 1000000 m/month

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Product Description

Commercially wrought Nickel 200 ( UNS N02200) , a grade of pure nickel contains 99.2% nickel, has excellent mechanical properties, magnetic properties, high thermal, electrical conductivity and excellent resistance to many corrosive environment. Nickel 200 is useful in any environment below 600°F(315°C). It has highly resistance to neutral and alkaline salt solutions. Nickel 200 also has low corrosion rates in neutral and distilled water.

The applications of pure nickel includes food processing equipment, magnetostrictive devices and rechargeable batteries, computers, cellular Phone, power tools, camcorders and so on.

Good mechanical strength corrosion-resistant and heat-resistant strength.

Small oder accepted.

High-quality,short delivery and well after-sell service.

Welcome to contact me for more detailed information.

Alloy	Ni%	Mn%	Fe%	Si%	Cu%	C%	S%
Nickel 200	Min 99.2	Max 0.35	Max 0.4	Max 0.35	Max 0.25	Max 0.15	Max 0.01

Density	8.89
Resistivity	0.096
Melting point	1435-1446
Tensile strength	462Mpa
Yield strength	148Mpa
Elongation	47%

Q:I plugged in a computer to one of my outlets. I felt current passing through my band as I touched the case and held the monitor Connection and got a big spark when I tried to connect the monitor. This only happens on that outlet.: The neutral wire is not working and someone used the ground to make the receptacle work. It's not correct and as you see not particularly safe. That's why when you put the wires where they are supposed to be the outlet stopped working. Turn off the power and go box to box inspecting the wires, splices and connections at all other outlets on this circuit. Hopefully you will find and fix the reason the neutral doesn't work. If your outlets have the wires pushed into the back, pull them out and wrap them clockwise around the screws. If after that the neutral still doesn't work then the wire is damaged somewhere between boxes and fixing that can be anything from moderately difficult to impossible without removing baseboards, crawling under the house or through the attic.

Q:hi,i'm doing a preliminary search in buying a house in tucson, az, and have been looking at 1950s homes. none of the electrical is current/updated. does anyone know the year when codes were changed? i think it was in the 70s but i don't know exactly. this would help my first steps in searching, as i'm tired of looking at homes that have no ground or crazy wiring.: You might be going at it all wrong. Why not see what it would cost to upgrade the wiring in a house you like. The older homes were usually better built, more quaint and have mature trees and nicer neighbors. You can negotiate the asking price down, because of the wiring.

Q:I need to splice some 4 gauge electrical wire together to get a couple more feet, Are there wire nut big enough? or can I just tape it really good? What do i do?: You need to get wire lugs. These are made for larger wires. Lowe's and Home Depot has them. Regards, Dale

Q:I am replacing the exhaust fan in my bathroom. On the joist where I will be attaching the unit, there is a black electrical wire running along the joist. On the old fan, I think the wire either pinned between the joist and the box or sitting on the top of the box. The new fan has a taller height, so I don't think I can let it sit on the box. What should I do?: Perhaps you can place a shim between the joist and the fan to hold the fan off the joist by 3/4 or so. That way, the wire can remain untouched. Shims are commonly used for puposes such as this. They are just pieces of wood cut to the right size and tapped into place before final fastening.

Q:Whether the wire tube is connected to the electrical bridge can be connected to the bottom of the bridge: (7000-yuan), according to the product design of the mold, for welding power lines and hardware (plug), but also to understand the injection of the equipment, Of the soldering iron production process: 1

Q:I have two switches (one controls a fan and one controls a light) in a box with only one feed wire. The normal pigtail split is used for the blacks to the switches and the whites to the light and fan, ground to grounds. I have a timer with a black, red, white and ground that I will use to control the fan. Ground goes to ground, red goes to the fan, black gets connected to the existing blacks, for the white I pigtailed two short white wires with the white feed wire and connected one to the light switch white, and the other to the whites for the the fan and timer white (it works). Now the question Could I have connected the timer white with the whites for feed, the light and the fan or would that have caused a problem, (I thought it would so that is why I split the feed white off with the pigtail): Hey, I work at an electrical supply house and I would have to go and get a second opinion if you asked me this question. It is definitley an unusual query! I will tell you that I looked at the picture, and I see what you want to do. All dimmers have a transformer in them, so when you turn the knob or slide the switch, it reduces the voltage. Most dimmers are rated for 600 watts or 1000 watts, although you can get more wattage for considerably more money. What you should check into is something that is commercial grade or more heavy duty, the dimmer in that picture is like one you would put in your house. I am not sure that the dimmer will not hurt the smoker to be honest with you, I would have to ask the guys at work, they are brilliant, and they have been doing this for 30 years! What I do know is that you cant replace real hickory with a smoker, but to each his own!

Q:Hi. I would like to add a Maestro Dimmer switch to a three way circuit. My current setup is that I have two switches that control one receptacle. I would like the finished job to have the receptacle be controlled by only the dimmer switch and have the second switch be inoperable.This is what I currently have for my wiring setup.Switch 1 (One wanting to add dimmer to and keep): Red and White wire connected at top of switchWhite connected at bottomTwo black wires connected to each otherSwitch 2 (One wanting to make inoperable):Black connected at topRed and White connected at bottom.Receptacle:White connected at topBlack and White connected at bottomTwo black wires and one white wire connected to each otherI understand somewhat how the two switches work but am baffled at the receptacles wiring. I am no electrician by any means so if someone could explain in simple terms, I would greatly appreciate it!: on the line switch you have one hot wire and two travelers, on the load side you have the other end of the two travelers and the wire that goes to the light. the light works by switching from one traveler to the other one either end.you need to figure out which wires are the travelers and which one is the hot in the first switch box line side, check the directions on the dimmer and wire it as instructed using one of the travelers as the wire to the 2nd switch box which you will connect to the black wire to the receptacle on the brass colored screw, the white goes on the silver colored screw and the ground goes on the green colored screw

Q:even if the damaged area isn't touching anything?: Yes it might. use electrical tape or replace the damaged wire.

Q:I have an electrical outlet in my basement family room on a wall made with drywall. I want to 'flip' the box so that it is facing the furnace room. There's no drywall on that side, so I have access to the box and the stud it's nailed to. I just want to cut the power, (check again that the power is off!) pull the nails out, turn the box 180 degrees and renail to the stud. I've got enough slack in the wires.Can I do that?: I was gonna say sure BUT THEN I AM THINKING to do that you have to undo the wiring to flip it and retighten the nuts back on the same wires. Meaning a pair of pliers is your friend here.if the wires are twisted together and then nutted. Which is a great big hassle. I would be tempted more to draw the power from another outlet in the furnace room and drill a bunch of holes in the 2x4s and run a line from that outlet to the other. or even stealing power from the light and string it down(however in that case the outlet may not work unless the light switch is ON (not the best option but doable and safe) Or, if you can run a separate breaker in the fuse box just for that wire. Or if that outlet is used very little in the family room just run another wire out connected with larger nuts as you are adding another wire to each line and put the box where you want. comfort wise for plugging things in. The only reason all the plugs are 12 inches off the ground is because that is how long the electricians hammer was when he roughed in the boxes.

Q:anything in particular to worry about? besides killing myself. I bought the plug w/ the 3 loose wires sticking out as well as the new hot water line and elbow to replace the current copper line. the middle one looks like the green (ground) but i can't tell which one is the black or white one, they all have metal tips. Also, do i have to have the little plastic tops to twist the wires together? or electrical tape sufficient?: The green is the ground. It realy doesn't matter what the other two hook to. Use wire nuts. The tape will degrade over time and fall off. It could cause a short and in some cases cause an electrical fire.

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