Pressure Reducing Valve with good delivery time good quality

Pressure Reducing Valve with good delivery time good quality System 1

Pressure Reducing Valve with good delivery time good quality

Ref Price:

Loading Port:: China Main Port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: -

Supply Capability:: -

Inquire Now

Add to My Favorites

OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

Specifications:

Regulator for gaseous media, to be fitted to all types of gas
Optimum dimensioning allows high throughput performance

Application:

VGBF regualtors are general purpose regualtors for controlling gas pressure to furnaces, ovens and other gas consuming equipment. They are suitable for nature, LP and clean biogas at inlet pressure up to 60psig (4bar). Springs are available to allow for a wide choice of outlet pressure.

Payment: TT / LC / DP

Pressure Reducing Valve with good delivery time good quality

Q: So just yesterday i bought a second-hand ytr 2320e. After i bought it, i washed it and tryed playing it, but when i press the first valve, there is this small metal scraping metal sound kinda like if you scratch a metal bowl with a fork. I think it has something to do with the spring but im not sure.also, i was wondering if the trumpet valves are supposed to be very easy to press, or if they take a tiny bit of push.: No, there shouldn't be any scraping sounds. Yikes! It may be simply that the spring guide is misaligned. I'd pull the valve and try to make sure it locks-in when you replace it. On Yamaha's, the valve guide locks in with the valve facing forward (or backward - but you won't be able to blow through it with the valve down). So pull it. Look to see if there's a number engraved on the top section of the valve, and if so... it faces the player. Once you slide it in, turn it side to side slightly. If it won't turn, the valve guide is in place. If it turns a little, you should eventually hear the valve guide snap into the groove and you won't be able to turn it. If the scraping sound continues, the spring may be bent and need to be replaced (easy do-it-yourself kits available on-line). As to the sound, my guess is that this is just a matter of adjusting to a MUCH smaller mouthpiece than you're used to using. Everyone sounds awful when they start. That said... You should also check to see that the spit-valve corks are there and sealing the tuning slide and third valve slide completely. They'll fall off sometimes, which creates a leak and thus an annoying buzz in the sound. It's a good student model trumpet, so congrats on the purchase, and enjoy!

Q: The water in my tub/shower stopped working. I did my research on the net to discover the cause and I also went to Home Depot explained the problem. The worker at home depot helped me get the right part I needed to replace the valve stem. I came home, took the faucet handle off and can see what I need to do next. Everything seems perfect and ready to go, except I can't remove the old valve stem. It seems like the old one should just slide out and the new one replaces it. How do I get the old one out without damaging any of the pipes or hurting myself.: Do you have a valve for the hot and one for the cold, or does one valve control both? If there are two valves they should just unscrew. You might need to go back to Home Depot and get a wrench designed for valve stem removal. (Before you go, spray it with penetrating oil such as WD-40 and let it do it's thing while you're gone. If it's just one valve for both, there's probably a collar that screws on and holds the cartridge in place. After that is off, the cartridge should slide out-ususally with a little 'persuasion' from some pliers. (But don't try to twist it) Hope you get it.

Q: is it possible to check valve to piston clearance with out taking the heads off? I want to buy a bigger camshaft for my 351 windsor stock pistons with 1970 heads. cam is 230 duration (280) and 512 lift: put cylinder one at top dead center. then compress valve down till it makes contact with the piston. not accurate because hydraulic lifters will pump up during engine operation

Q: I want to switch off the water in the bathroom only due to replacing sink taps, will water still come out of the pipe if i turn the stop valve: Assuming that the stop valves are good, turning them off will stop the flow of water to the sink taps. To test them, turn on the water faucet at the sink, then turn off both stop valves. The water should stop coming out of the faucet. If it continues to drip, the stop valves are defective and should be replaced when you do the job. If this is the case you'll have to shut off the main water valve or a valve upstream of the stops to replace them. Good Luck

Q: im having trouble locating the pcv valve on my 1979 oldsmobile. i have a 305 engine. i need to replace it asap, so any help would be appreciated. thanks in advance to all feedback.: Facing the engine, should be on your left valve cover. Has a hose attached to it and sticks into the valve cover.

Q: For those of you that have had a heart valve replaced, why did your heart valve go bad?: They usually just get worn or go bad my son will be getting his Pulmonary Valve put in here within the next year. he has a CHD and with his last open-heart surgery they had to remove it, so right now he doesn't have one. the cardiologist tell me they can last up to 20 years!!!

Q: When you regulate flow with a valve in a fluid circuit, obviously the flow changes. But mathematically, it changes in function to what? the minimum cross-sectional area? I mean it has to have something to do with some integral of sth (since a valve can change the cross-sectional area of a portion of the tube with length of almost zero and the flow would still change dramatically). I have no idea how to work this through. Can you tell me what changes when you close a valve, which makes the total flow change?Please answer asprecisely as possible, this is for a college essay! thanks in advance!: The flow coefficient is a measurement usually given for a valve fully open, identified in the specs as the Cv. It basically tells you how much flow you'll get through the valve for a given pressure differential across it, or conversely how much your pressure will drop if you force a certain volume through it. Some valve types are effectively orifices (gate valves) or short lengths of pipe (non-full-port ball valves), others like solenoid types have more complicated internal paths the reduce flow because of the fluid having to change directions in addition to squeezing through orifices.

Q: I have a suzuki bandit 1200 (2001) and I think it needs a valve adjustment. The engine is tapping at idle and while riding but I cant stop riding long enough to get it fixed. All the shops I checked with are booked for a week. Will I make the engine worst by riding it like this?: Drop off the tapping bandit at the shop. The adjustment will be made and presto back in business. Dont't be silly look around for an independent garage owner that will do it for $50 instead of the $200 the dealer will charge. What do you mean---can't stop riding long enough. Blow the tapping in to a big thump and you might end up hospitalized---cause it broke.

Q: why do new motorcycles need to get their valves shimed alot? can someone explain how the whole valve adjusting thing works? why do some engine types require more attention? i have owned thumpers my whole life and never really thought about it. i was looking at this like cheap beater bike (hyosung gt250 v twin) and i read the valves need to be checked like 3 times in a short span, wtf??: Valves have to have some clearance when the engine is cold so that as the stems expand the valves will still close all the way. Most of the wear in the valve train occurs at the valve and seat, as the seat tends to recede and the valve pulls further into the head.(SOHC and OHV designs may also wear in the rocker arms and bushings, which tends to open the valve clearances, usually not as quickly as valve seat wear, however.) As an inevitable result of this wear at the seat/valve juncture, the gap between the valve stem (or bucket or shim) and the cam lobe (or rocker arm) tends to close down. If the gap is too small, the valve may not close all the way when the engine is warm. If the valve does not have enough contact with the seat, it cannot transfer heat away, and may erode. There can also be a loss of compression if the valve cannot close. This wear happens most rapidly with a new engine and the valve clearances tend to close up relatively quickly. As the parts bed in, clearances tend to stabilize. That is why the first one or two valve adjustments are most important.

Q: so i'm replacing a one hole faucet, and i'm stuck at the very first step. the cold water valve turned off with no problems. i tried to turn on the cold water and none came out. unfortunately, the hot water valve just squeaks and goes around and around, never cutting off the water. when i turn it, it also leaks a minute amount of water, though regardless of which way i twist, it stops as soon as i do. i can't just unplug the hot water valve with it still running water, so does anyone have any ideas? how does one replace a valve like this to begin with? is it possible that there is a shut off valve for the house that i myself can access (without having to call someone to shut off my water)? in case you haven't noticed, i am a bit plumbing deficient, so if you could explain it without too much jargon, it would be much appreciated.: There should be a main shutoff valve to cut the entire water supply to the house. If you have a basement the main valve would be where the water supply comes into the house. 99% of the time that is in the front of the house. If you live in a slab house then the main water shutoff is usually near the hot water tank in a pipe that typically comes out of the floor. If it is not there then it will be in the yard (usually the front yard) undeneath a metal cover. You can always turn a valve off and then check water by opening a faucet. Remember that you need to give it a couple minutes to see if it has shut off fully as water may drain out of house pipes. If you are just going to replace the hot water valve then you may have a shutoff for that above the hot water tank. Most lilkely the inlet side but could be the outlet side or even both. You can try those. Now you replace the valve once you are sure that water is shut off. You may not need to drain the hot water tank. Just turn it off and see if water continues to come out. Just turn a valve off and check to see if the water shuts off. Eventually you will find the right valve. Just remember it can take a while for water to drain out of the pipes. If you need help replacing the valve just add an additional comment and I will check back. Describe to me whether you have copper pipes or galvanized pipes and the type of shutoff that is there now.

Send your message to us

*Email

*TEL

*Quantity

*Unit