• Polished Porcelain Tile Pilate Series Brown Color JP6003 System 1
  • Polished Porcelain Tile Pilate Series Brown Color JP6003 System 2
Polished Porcelain Tile Pilate Series Brown Color JP6003

Polished Porcelain Tile Pilate Series Brown Color JP6003

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1267.2
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

Add to My Favorites

Follow us:


OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

Product Brief Introduction

 

Polished Porcelain Tile Pilate Series Brown Color JP6003 is one of the most popular color of Pilate Serie, which is one serie of Polished Porcelain Tile in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones.

 

Product Features

 

  Polished Porcelain Tile, Double Loading

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet


Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Glossiness: 85 Degree

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

  For 800x800mm, 3pcs/Ctn, 28 Ctns/Pallet, 616 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1182.72m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

Polished Porcelain Tile Pilate Series Brown Color JP6003

Polished Porcelain Tile Pilate Series Brown Color JP6003

 


FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

         —— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. 


Why Us:

• More than 9 years tile exporting experience,RMB 200 million sales every year.

• More than 13 years tile factory running-well management experience.

• Excellent quality and Competitive price, OEM is available.

• Widely professional exporting experience all over the world.


 

Our Service:
• Your inquiry related to our product & price will be replied within 24hours.
• Well-trained & experienced staff are to answer all your inquiries professional in English.
• Working time: 24 hours on line
• OEM is highly welcomed. 
• Your business relationship with us will be confidential to any third party.
• Good after-sale service offered, please get back if you got question.

 

Suggestion:
Please kindly check the packages after you receive the goods, if you got wrong products/ quality problem/ short q'ty, please

get back to us as priority. Please note that you need to send us pictures of the defective items concerning this, and we will

consider to replace or refund accordingly.


Q:Hi, I just wanted to know if Ceramic tiles are better than stone tiles? When we signed a contract for a new house, they offered us Stone tiles, but now they are calling us and telling that they do not offer stone tiles instead ceramic tiles are now standard. I wanted to know which one is better and why?
Ceramic tile is cheaper than stone but we have installed ceramic or porcelain tiles in all bathrooms for the ease of upkeep. Stone does look richer but it needs to be sealed at least once a year maybe more. The sealing part is easy but the stone tile needs to be completely clean first. That is the 'hard work' part. Ceramic tile will hold up to almost anything in a bathroom and the grout is the only thing that needs sealing. (You'd probably have grout to seal with the stone too) If you signed for stone, I'd make sure that they are going to give you some kind of refund for the difference of the cost. They are saving a a few bucks here so make them pass it on.
Q:Kent has a 2-ft by 2-ft square floor to cover with tiles. He has 38 tiles. Twelve of the tiles are 4-inch by 4-inch squares, ten are 4-inch by 8-inch rectangles, and the remaining 16 are 2-inch by 8-inch right triangles. What is the smallest number of pieces Kent can have left over after covering the floor? Please show your work if possible (like steps etc) You can solve it as a Geometry or in Algebric way which ever works for you. Thankyou To All That Solves!
Havn't been in an Math class in 4 years now... I'm saying 4 - 4x4 squares will be the smallest amount possible. 16 2x8 right triangles would be the same as 8 2x8 rectangles that = 128 inches, from the 2ftx2ft Square would leave 448 inches. the 10 4x8 rectangles would be 320 inches, leaving 128 inches to fill 8 of the 12 4x4 squares would equal exactly 128 inches and would leave 4 4x4 squares with all area filled. Sounds good, might be missing somthing though.
Q:The ceramic tile in my kitchen is cracked at a lot of different spots. My guess is the previous owner didn‘t put a thick enough plywood before installing the ceramic tiles. I want to replace them, but I just realized that right now my floor is perfectly leveled with the hallway and living room and adding more plywood would screw it all up. What options do I have to get around this issue?
Tear it up and maybe you can level it without adding more plywood if not replace the plywood too. Or you can tear it up and put some thin plywood down and put a threshold in the doorway that will cover up the height difference.
Q:I like the original quarry tiled floor from our 60‘s kitchen, but they are quite badly stained. I can‘t pretend they have any historic value, or even were particularly well laid, so on balance should I1) Replace with new tiles, perhaps up to a higher standard2) Get a specialist to restore them to something approaching their original stateWhich will cost more, and what would you do?
Quarry tiles are made from unrefined extruded, high silica alumina clay that gets pressed into the desired form and hard burnt. They are hard and durable but have a softer composition than ceramic tiles. It is an unglazed form of tile, which comes in a natural colour selection, red, brown and beiges. A good and cheap place to start is to try using raw linseed oil. This will usually remove most of your tough stains. You want to be careful about using acids on real quarry tile because they are very porous and acids could etch your tiles permanently. If the linseed oil doesn't do the trick then a more expensive alternative would be using Lithofin Victorian Tiled Floor Restorer and a good sealer is HG Golvpolish. You should be able to get these from good tile retailers. If the tiles are laid on earth, or on a lime bed on earth, they should not be sealed as they need to breath to avoid damp being trapped. The original tile finish was a clear oil and of course this still allows the tile to breath. Try Slate Dressing from a fireplace shop, this is colourless and will give a richness to the tiles.. Hope this helps.
Q:I am making a unglazed ceramic tile-mosaic table and I know I have to seal the tiles as well as grout and then seal the grout. Can I use a tile-sealer as a grout sealer? Or do I have two use two different products?
Sealers for ceramic or porcelain are useless. These materials are non porous. The best advice I can give you is to use a dark color grout. What the guy above said is right.
Q:I have a new bathtub with Durock cement board installed around it and I‘m ready for tile. I just got a guy out to give me an estimate for doing the tile work around the tub and he said the Durock would have to be primed first. I‘ve heard you‘re supposed to put the tile directly on the Durock, not paint it. Now I don‘t know what to do. Is he wrong? If he‘s wrong, do I hire someone else or just question him? He did another (non-tile related) job for me and did an excellent job, so I trust him, but I‘m nervous about this. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!
I don't see how priming it would have any advantage. I tiled over some a couple years ago and have had no problems at all. I would think the adhesion would be in question if you are basically adding a layer of paint in between. You don't prime concrete before you lay tile flooring so why would you do otherwise to a cement board? I would ask him for is reasoning behind it. If it sounds like BS and a way to add some time to the job hire someone else.
Q:Laying 225 Sq ft of 18x18 tile on flat slab. Using Ultraflex II thinset (white) w/ 1/16 spacers. Cannot find a 3/4 trowel to apply just to floor...can I use 1/2 sq notch trowel if I apply to floor and back of tile as well when I set them???
Your okorder
Q:i need to know if there are any ways to remove concrete that has already set, from tile
If the tiles are a really hard glaze then you could have them sand blasted there are plenty of businesses that can dry sand blast as long as the tiles are worth more than the cost of sand blasting
Q:We have a fireplace in our lower level that is outdated, dingy old masonry and doesn‘t fit with the rest of our updates down there. I would like to tile over it and have it ready for use before our family comes over for Thanksgiving. What is the best method?
You can attach tile directly to masonry, it has been done all over the world for centuries (Italy, Spain, Middle East all use tile on the exterior of buildings...) I would assume normal thin-set mortar would work, but I believe it would depend on the exact type of masonry- concrete block or clay brick. A thicker adhesive bed will likely be necessary to smooth over the rough surface, but because of the relatively porous surface of most types of masonry your bond should be excellent. My only word of caution would be if you have any cracks in the masonry. Make sure they are not active (widening and narrowing), which may occur with temperature and humidity swings. Either way, you may choose to weld the crack with epoxy to prevent any crack movements that may telegraph through your tile and crack it. HTH, Andrew Kester, PE Structural Engineer Florida (..and a tile afficianado..)
Q:We are in the process of buying a Fannie Mae home which is in very good condition. We did however find a hairline crack on about 6 of the 12 x 12 tiles in the master bathroom floor. The Home Inspector said there are no signs of foundation problems on the outside of the home. He said because we live in Texas the ground settles and expands and this could have caused the crack. Because there are no signs of foundation troubles on the outside of the home as long as we water the foundation we shouldn‘t have any problems. There is also a door that closes on it‘s own which indicates there could be a crack? However it‘s just one door out of about 12. Should we be worried or does the inspector know what he‘s talking about.
you shouldn't be worried the door is probably just off balance and inspector knows what he is talking about.

1. Manufacturer Overview

Location
Year Established
Annual Output Value
Main Markets
Company Certifications

2. Manufacturer Certificates

a) Certification Name  
Range  
Reference  
Validity Period  

3. Manufacturer Capability

a)Trade Capacity  
Nearest Port
Export Percentage
No.of Employees in Trade Department
Language Spoken:
b)Factory Information  
Factory Size:
No. of Production Lines
Contract Manufacturing
Product Price Range

Send your message to us

This is not what you are looking for? Post Buying Request

Similar products

Hot products


Hot Searches