• Polished Porcelain Tile Pilate Dark Color JP6005 System 1
  • Polished Porcelain Tile Pilate Dark Color JP6005 System 2
  • Polished Porcelain Tile Pilate Dark Color JP6005 System 3
Polished Porcelain Tile Pilate Dark Color JP6005

Polished Porcelain Tile Pilate Dark Color JP6005

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1267.2
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Polished Porcelain Tile Pilate Dark Color JP6005 is one of the most popular color of Pialte Serie, which is one serie of Polished Porcelain Tile in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones.not only glaze as smooth as polished tile brightening, like archaize brick pattern of design and color is rich, thick gorgeous color, natural texture, and the environmental protection and energy saving, service life long advantages and the low barriers to entry.

 

Product Features

 

  Polished Porcelain Tile, Double Loading

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  Competitive price

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Glossiness: 85 Degree

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

  For 800x800mm, 3pcs/Ctn, 28 Ctns/Pallet, 616 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1182.72m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

Polished Porcelain Tile Pilate Dark Color JP6005

Polished Porcelain Tile Pilate Dark Color JP6005

 


FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. 

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

         —— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. 


Why Us:

• More than 9 years tile exporting experience,RMB 200 million sales every year.

• More than 13 years tile factory running-well management experience.

• Excellent quality and Competitive price, OEM is available.

• Widely professional exporting experience all over the world.

 

 

Our Service:
• Your inquiry related to our product & price will be replied within 24hours.
• Well-trained & experienced staff are to answer all your inquiries professional in English.
• Working time: 24 hours on line
• OEM is highly welcomed. 
• Your business relationship with us will be confidential to any third party.
• Good after-sale service offered, please get back if you got question.

 

Suggestion:
Please kindly check the packages after you receive the goods, if you got wrong products/ quality problem/ short q'ty, please

get back to us as priority. Please note that you need to send us pictures of the defective items concerning this, and we will

consider to replace or refund accordingly.


Q: my tiles i am using are 13 inch,and i am doing a 4x8 wall,so i was wondering which is the best way to adhere it
The easiest to use would be a mastic, it has a long open time and holds tile in place very good. The type of adhesive also depends on what you're going over, thinset is my favorite but it can be more difficult to work with.
Q: Can you Spackle over ceiling tile and then paint it, or do you have to rip all the tiles out and Sheetrock the ceiling to have a seamless ceiling?
Not sure what type of tiles these are, but I'll guess this is a hung ceiling, with the metal strips holding up lightweight acoustic ceiling tile. If this is the case, spackle (used to fill holes in walls, etc.) is not an option. In theory, someone could mud the suspended ceiling, and it could possibly come out relatively smooth. However, hung ceilings are not made for this, and I doubt an amateur could pull it off with any degree of success. What's above the tiles? A real ceiling? If so, your best bet is to remove the hung ceiling, and either fix up the real ceiling above, or put a real ceiling up.
Q: I just installed a backsplash in my kitchen. It is glass mosaics with slate - 1x1. Today I began grouting and after it sat for 2 hours ( as instructed) I began wiping it down with a wet sponge. After scrubbing it for about an hour there is still a considerable amount of grout on the tiles - especially the slate. I used non sanded grout which is recommended for my tiles, but it will not come off! What can I do to remove the grout off of these tiles without scratching them? Please help. Thankyou
I don t know who told you 2 hrs but that's totally wrong.He/ she should be shot or fired for telling you that. I d suggest a sanded grout for a slate, even a small 1x1 but with the glass tiles, you have to be careful not to scratch them. Did you seal the slate prior to setting or at least grouting?The grout my be clinging to the unsealed slate as well. At this point vinegar and water will not touch it. Start by scrapping off excess with a pc of wood or a plastic scraper.Don t use any thing metal. Once the excess is off, get a cleaner specifically for grout clean up.Hydroment makes a product called Remove but you can find other products were tile products are sold. Any other questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q: My husband and I just purchased our first house and we are pretty much tapped out for now. We dont have alot of money to remodel but enough to make some temporary improvements until next spring. All of our families are coming for the holidays and I want to spruce up our house. My biggest problem both of our bathrooms floors they are bad looking. I want to put peel and stick tile down but not sure how to measure for it. I want to do this today while my hubby is at work so I can surprise him. Im working on the master bath first its not that big, its only 5 feet by 5 inches long and 5 feet by 3 inches wide. How much peel and stick would I need? I have already cleaned the floors very well, what other tools do i need to get?
Most tile packs give an area coverage guide ,this site will give you a visual instruction of how to lay etc hope it helps,also times the length by the width to get the area 28'6 You will only need a stanley knife and a straight edge to cut self adhesive tiles
Q: I‘m installing a kitchen back splash of 1 x 1 glass tile. Right now there is drywall where the tile will be. I‘ve read that it is better to use cement backing board as a substrate. Is this really necessary or can I just use thin-set to mount the tile directly to the drywall and then grout as usual? Thanks for your help!
Hello Samsonite, I would have to disagree with using mastic. If you were using something that had a good absorption rate it's be different, but glass is so dense it'd take forever for the mastic to set up. Most manufacturers of glass tiles recommend using highly modified thinset (Customs Building Product's Megaflex at HD or TEC's Superflex at a tile supplier). I have found the Superflex to have the most brilliant white color when cured, providing the best background for your colors to shine. Drywall will be fine. You may want to key in the mortar you choose by flat troweling it on the drywall before combing your notches. This helps to ensure 100% coverage. For more detailed info, tips, and pics of other DIYer's jobs please visit the site in my profile. :)
Q: i had a pipe leak into my bedroom and now everything is torn apart so i am remodeling my room and i cant decide between wood or tile flooring. my dad said wood because it looks good and because our living room and theater room is tile and if my bedroom is tile it wouldnt make any sense. my mom says i should get tile because if my grandma spills her drink or eat in my room it wont ruin the tile and its easy to clean up but if wood it could be ruined with scratch marks or circle stain on the wood from the cup or drink she spills. so now i dont know which one to choose. also i would like to paint my room blue and wonder if you guys have any suggestions on the shade colors of blue any website or image of the shade color would be nice if i could view them. thank you in advance!
Hi okorder / Hope this helps. Jason Buzi
Q: Not sure it it‘s mold/mildew ot the sealer stripping off. I‘ve used Tilex but it didn‘t work. Even scrubbed it with a stiff brush. Anyone know what this film is and how to get it off?
Are these tiles applied directly to a concrete floor that sits on the ground? If so, it sounds like efflorescence, where salt moves from the ground into the floor and then through the tile appearing as a white film on the surface of the tile (it happens through basement walls and if bricks are placed on the ground). Scrubbing may not be enough. You may have to check at your local hardware store for a sealer for your tiles or a cleaner strong enough to prevent the film from forming again.
Q: I was told that a granite tile countertop is a cheap way to upgrade countertops. can I install granite tile over the existing laminate countertop? do I need any to install any material between the laminate countertop and the granite tiles? thanks
Granite Tile Countertop Over Laminate
Q: I am in the process of installing a slate floor in my mudroom. The durock has been laid, and the tiles cut and sealed, and I‘m ready to start using the medium set to secure the tiles in place, but as I‘ve never laid slate (or any tile) before, I have some questions. 1. The tiles are in place now how I want them, do I have to take up the tiles row by row before I start mortaring them in place, or can I do 1 or 2 tiles at a time?2. I laid the tiles out starting from the center and working outwards. When I lay the tiles in place do I again start at the center, or do I start from the edges, or doesn‘t it matter?3. What is the best way to prevent lippage? As this is slate there is a good amount of variation. Do I just back butter each tile so that it is as high as the highest tile in the room? How do I manage to do that properly?
Others might disagree, but here's what I suggest: 1. I take up at least a few rows of tile at a time, carefully stacking them in order. 2. Layout should always be done using a center line. There are options for the installation: - If you carefully snap or draw lines for each row on the Durorock and do not use spacers you can start wherever you want, for example against a far wall so that you don't work your way into a corner. - If you only use a center line and rely upon spacers, then you need to start at the center. Tiles tend to drift from each other slightly when you install using spacers, so if you start in the center and work in both directions the net drift toward the edge will be half as much as it would if you work from one edge all the way to the other. - I always draw lines for each row when I do a diagonal installation. I install the longest row first and the work away from it toward the opposite corners. 3. Once I mix a batch of thinset, I don't want to fuss much with tile thickness. So before I even lay the slate tiles out on the floor I sort them from thickest to thinnest. Individual tiles often vary in thickness from one corner to the other; others might have consistent thickness but be dished (not flat). These tiles are candidates to be cut for edge pieces, or they might not be worth using at all. Anyway, I layout the tiles from thickest on one side of the room to thinnest on the other and only need to butter a thin corner of that occasional irregular tile that is pretty enough to be worth the hassle. 4. See my answer to 2.
Q: I have a kitchen that currently has 20X20 tile The kitchen has 40 tilesWhat is the square feet of the kitchen?
~71.3 square feet assuming the tiles are laid in one long row (it really doesn't matter how they are laid): 20*40=800/12=66' 8 times 20/12= 1'8 equals ~71.3 square feet you could also measure the room like Kristine says, but my math is right.

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