• Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading Natural Stone Serie Pink Color 6401 System 1
  • Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading Natural Stone Serie Pink Color 6401 System 2
Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading Natural Stone Serie Pink Color 6401

Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading Natural Stone Serie Pink Color 6401

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Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1382.4
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading Natural Stone Serie Pink Color 6401 is one of the most popular color of Crystal Jade Serie, which is one serie of Polished Porcelain Tile in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones.

 

Product Features

 

  Polished Porcelain Tile, Double Loading

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Glossiness: 85 Degree

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

 

Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading Natural Stone Serie Pink Color 6401Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading Natural Stone Serie Pink Color 6401

 

 

FAQ  

 

1. Why choose our Floor Tile?

1). Less investment and shorter lead time because we ship tiles directly from Factory.

2). Better ETD and more stable price bacause we keep abundant stock for future needs.
3). Experienced service because we have an experienced team and we could send our experienced engineer for guving useful instruction on your jobsite.
4). Better warranty of products because we enjoy a reputation and we have got varies certificates and awards for our products.

 

2. What exhibition we joined?

1). Canton Fair (every year)

2). Dubai Big 5

3). American Covering

 

3. What's the characteristics about porcelain tiles and glazed tiles? Which one

more slippery, more aesthetically pleasing and easy to clean?

 

Glazed tiles are colorful, the effect is rather diverse, stain-slip, abrasion resistance but worse than the porcelain tiles. Long-term use may wear a large surface; porcelain tiles have the higher degree, long hard wear surface. Good performance and stable cleanup (before playing the best times to use the wax to improve stain resistance). The porcelain tiles are weaker performance in non-slip than glazed tiles. We should take attention on its anti-slip properties, face down in a tiled brick water testing.

Q: I will be doing my first tile job soon. I will be removing/replacing the tile on my kitchen countertop. I have got most everything figured out with the exception of removing the existing tile on the backsplash. I believe the tile was placed directly over sheet rock (tract home). Any suggestions on how to remove the tile without too much damage to the sheetrock. If I have to do sheetrock replacement I don‘t think I could ever duplicate the texture now applied to the surronding sheet rock Thanks for any tips.
Carefully remove any molding/cut any caulk between the tile and sheet rock using a razor blade knife. Remove the tile from the counter top then start working (prying) from the back splash tile bottoms using a wonder bar - oftentimes they'll pretty much pop right off. If you pry from the tile sides against the sheet rock, use a wood block under the pry bar to avoiding making indentations in/breaking thru the rock. Best to not get in a hurry. Never hurts to have a hammer and safety glasses near just in case. Have you considered extending the new back splash up to the cabinets above? Just guessing at the layout...
Q: Anyone have any experience with using glass mosaic tile as the kitchen counter material (not just as the backsplash)? This would be for a lightly used area of my kitchen counter by the sink - not the primary work area. Would love to hear any pros and cons. Thanks!
I have not yet run across a glass tile that is rated for use on a kitchen counter top. They will scratch too easily for use on a kitchen counter, and are more for a wall application. Ceramic is ok for a counter top, but does not usually come in a mosaic. Ther are a few though. Maybe you are making your own mosaic? Ceramic would be the easiest to work with. If it has a shiney finish though, it will show scratches with wear. Porcelain comes in mosaic sheets and is very durable. I personally wouldn't want a mosaic countertop because it would be uneaven, and have lots of grout. But if you are sure that's what you want, be sure to buy grout sealer, and use the correct cleaners so that sealer stays on! Or grout with an epoxy grout, it won't stain. It is hard to work with though.
Q: To remoe the old wall tiles between kitchen cabinet takes a lot of time or may damage the sheetrock behind it, can I install granite or new tiles on top of it. Appreciate for any input
Hi, Well, in order to support wall tiles a special board should be nailed to your wall. It provides much better support than regular dry wall, plus it also has many grooves on it which will help greatly in holding the mortar in place, this type of board goes by many names, I know it by the name hard back, or cement board. If you install tile over tile, you're losing the ability for the mortar to adhere, plus you're adding twice the weight that the hard back was meant to support. What ought to be done, in order to insure your expensive tile job lasts, is to remove the tile, and probably the hard back board behind it. If you're able to just remove the hard back without chipping away at the existing tile, then you get two steps out of the way fairly easily......but the thing is, that hard back is usually nailed very well into place, using many nails, this is to prevent it from flexing, because if it flexes much then the tile would come off the wall. Then once you've gotten the old hard back off of the wall, you'd install a new hard back to put your new tile on. Both Home Depot and Lowes offer tile installation classes for free, plus the people they have in those departments would be able to help you at any time. They'll be able to tell you what all you'll need once you've gotten the old stuff off the wall. Best of luck!
Q: The tiles are textured and it seems that the high spots are wearing and can not be cleaned. Is this caused by inexpensive tiles?Texturing? Will I have to replace the floor? What product should I use? Any information will be appreacated.
Sounds like whoever installed the tile did not use floor tile, they are the same color top to bottom, throughout. The tile you now have sounds like wall tile and only has the coloration on the top of the tile. You have two possible solutions to this problem. Replace the tile, or a cheaper fix that will not be permanent, is to finish the floor with semigloss polyurethane which will also wear out. High gloss will be very slick when wet, but depending on the sheen of the current tile you may decide to use that instead. The polyurethane will slightly change the color of your floor, and should be considered when you make your decision.
Q: I went to the Home Depot website and for instance, baking stones are like $25 each. I heard that some flooring tiles do the same job, though some of the types (like terracota) can expel some poisonous gases when heated; also, that I should avoid enameled tiles or anything with coating.Should I get a baking stone instead?Thank you.
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Q: if there are 24 square tiles in a box and there are enough to cover 3 square feet, how big are the tiles?
24 tiles/3 sq ft =8 tiles per square foot. Since 8 is not a square, there is no solution, or the tiles cannot be square.
Q: I‘m having a small bathroom remodled. The floor isn‘t perfectly rectangular, there are some uneven areas because of the tub. I would like the opinion of a profession tiler (should there be one put there, somewhere)...should the floor tiles always be centered, or start lined up against a wall? Also, should the grout be completely dry before sealing it? Thanks.
It is extremely rare that any floor is perfectly rectangular. That is why we dry fit the tile before we actually lay it. The idea is to lay it out in such a way that you maximize the size of all border tiles. The larger the border tiles, the less you will notice any variances in the walls. So, sometimes the tile will be centered, sometimes start against a wall, sometimes none of the above. Each job is different. I will give you an example of when you don't want to center your first grout line. When doing so will result in very narrow border tiles. In such a case, the contractor has to come up with a solution Make sense? There are many more scenarios I can think of, but I think you get the point.
Q: What‘s the difference between tile mastic tile adhesive? I was told to paint the wall w/paint primer first then use tile adhesive rather than tile mastic to apply tiles on damaged green board around my jaccuzzi tub for a quick fix. The green paper peeled off when removing the old tile exposing the brown cardboard stuff.
Tile mastic is the pre mixed glue that come in pails . Quart , gallon, and 3 1/2 gallon pails. Adhesive is used as a general term .. It can be a mastic, a thin set etc..Either will work for the suggestion I had given you about painting the green board to allow any adhesive to adhere.. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there GL
Q: Flatness of the thickness of the wall and how the number of pounds
4 test weight The same size of the floor tiles, the greater the weight, the better the quality, which is a relatively simple and rugged and effective selection method. Good quality tiles (800mm * 800mm) a pack of three, not a regular exercise of adult men is difficult to move up alone. (I belong to the type of extreme lack of exercise, two Nobel 800mm * 800mm tiles I can not move a person) Weight reference: a 800mm * 800mm tile about 30 pounds to 40 pounds, a 600mm * 600mm tile about 12 pounds to 18 pounds, a 300mm * 300mm tile about 3 pounds to 5 pounds. 5 listen to the sound With a hard object (such as carrying the key) flick, the sound more crisp, the higher the degree of porcelain, the better the quality. You can also use the fingers to clamp the corner of the tile, so that the tiles hanging down, with the other hand flick the lower tiles, the more clear the sound, the better the quality. This method may be more virtual, we should listen to a few pieces of different price tiles in order to have the ability to accurately determine. 6 to see the water absorption In the back of the tiles, watching the water spread after the speed of water, in general, the slower the water, indicating that the greater the density of tiles, the better the quality. Tiles should not absorb water, if the tiles to absorb water, and from the front to see the water stains, that shows the quality is poor, do not buy. Wall is a certain degree of water absorption, it is difficult to use this method to test, but now the wall and floor tiles are basically supporting the sale of tiles qualified, wall is also no big problem. Poor quality of the tiles on the back of a larger water absorption Tested the Nobel and Dongpeng tiles, the back almost no water, and the water wipe, completely anhydrous marks.
Q: I have a few chips in my ceramic floor tile. It‘s a light natural color tile, so the chipped part is dark and noticeable. Is there anything that you can put in the chips to cover them up?
Tile Chip Repair

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