Acid and Heat-resistant Bricks with Good Quality

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Loading Port:: China Main Port

Payment Terms:: TT or LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 Cubic Meter watt

Supply Capability:: 1000 Cubic Meters per Month watt/month

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Main technical indexes:

Item

Unit

Value

Standard

Volume density

G/m3

2.21-2.24

HG/T3210-1986

Apparent porosity

9.3-10.5

HG/T3210-1986

Water adsorption

4.2-4.7

GB/T8488-2001

Cold/heat shock resistance

950-20°C

not crack after 10 times

GB/T8488-2001

Elastic constant

Mpa

2138

DIN

Compressive strength

Mpa

100

JC424-91

Thermal conductivity

W/m.k

1.175

DIN

Expansion coefficient of thermal film

1/°C

3.2×10-2

DIN

Thermal expansion rate

0.31

DIN

Acid resistance

≥99.7

GB/T8488-2001

Remark:

1. Acid/heat resistant tile, plate, tube was checked and accepted pursuant to QB/SNC00-9.

2. Acid/heat resistant tile, plate, tube can be manufactured in accord with the specification, size or blueprints offered by clients and design departments.

Q: I will be putting matching ceramic tile as molding....what is the best way to attach the ceramic molding to the wall?: Just try to apply the molding to the wall, you will need to secure it on with common wall adhesive. Be sure to get a urethane-based, heavy-duty wall or wood glue. This will typically come in a tube similar to caulk and can be applied in long strips using a caulking gun. You will need enough to make several passes up and down the wall where you want to install the molding. Strength of the adhesive should not be a major concern, as any commercially available wall glue will be plenty strong enough to hold molding to the wall material.

Q: I don‘t want to rent a wet saw for just a few pieces of tile. And I certainly don‘t need to buy one. Do some places offer this service if so where. Thanks: difficult situation seek on to google or bing it can assist

Q: I‘m going to be putting in a tile floor in my kitchen (all cabinets and appliances removed). I have done my research and have a good idea of what I will be doing - beef up the subfloor with plywood and lots of screws for rigidity; use cement based self leveler to correct a mild slope; install backerboard or decoupling membrane (not sure which yet) followed by the tile.I have a plan, but plans tend to fall apart after their first run-in with reality. Has anyone run into types of problems they don‘t talk about on DIY network? The types of problems complete the following kinds of sentences: are you f***ing kidding me? You have to do ____ before ___? or dammit, why don‘t they tell you you need [insert name of specialized gadget] on a product that cures in 10 minutes? or boy was I an idiot for doing/not doing [insert critically important but not obvious tiling procedure here].?Much obliged, and thanks for the responses.: Just a couple...ideas make sure you use specialized backerboard screws and not drywall screws buy a medium tile saw...at the beginning you will be quite a newbie..and slower than a pro at making your cuts and you don't want to be under the rental by the hour gun... when you are done..you will feel like a champ and sell the saw on craigslist for about the same money, to another newbie like you..he will thank you!! buy the best mortar money can buy..high end laticrete..you will be happy you did..rookies tend to cheap out on materials..but good thin set has many advantages, like flexibility, pot time etc...adhesion... last but not least porcelain tile and not ceramic.

Q: I‘m having a small bathroom remodled. The floor isn‘t perfectly rectangular, there are some uneven areas because of the tub. I would like the opinion of a profession tiler (should there be one put there, somewhere)...should the floor tiles always be centered, or start lined up against a wall? Also, should the grout be completely dry before sealing it? Thanks.: Yes the tiles need to be centered ,but always dry lay them out to see what size cut you ll be getting at the walls left to right. If you end up with less than a 1/2 tile, shift tile over 1/2 of a tile at the center, this gives you a bigger side cut. I personally like to do a whole tile starting at the door way,I just think this is a better look , but there again you can start in the middle and dry lay them out. As far as sealing grout read directions on your particular sealer. Most silicone based sealers need the grout to cure for 30 days. Penetrating sealers ( which I suggest) take only a 72 ( 3 day) cure time. Silicone sealers wont last as long and need resealing based on your usage and what you clean with. Penetrating sealers last for years. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL

Q: Please help! and give as much information you can about the invention of tiles!: Tiles have been used by man as a paving or cladding material for thousands of years. There are examples of glazed tiles, such as the Ishtar Gate at Babylon, which survive from the 6th century B.C. But who invented tiles, is a little difficult to pin down. Archaeologists have found bits of tiles along the River Nile dating back between 12,000 and 18,000 years. As early as 5,000 B.C. the Egyptians were making brightly coloured tiles to decorate the interior of their pyramids. Tiles used by Arab and Moorish civilisations can still be seen today.

Q: I don‘t have a ton of money for my kitchen but I feel I can do some minor things. I) Orange countertop MUST go. I am seriously considering due the lack of counter space in the kitchen, what you see is my only countertop space, is move the fridge to the wall on the right, which you cant realy see in this pic, but there is an inside interior wall im going to set the fridge against, and then extend the countertop the wall, and put a base cabinet below it, and one above it to be the same size vertically as the one next to the fridge. A neutral beige-ish countertop, and then probably a range top thing for above the stove. Replace old sink faucet too.My question about making a tile backsplash for above the sink, would ie be more logical to measure it out, and put the tiles on a piece of plywood and screw that 2 the wall instead of grouting the wall and tiles affixed to the wall directly.: For okorder

Q: The people who owned my house before me tiled the kitchen floor with slippery ceramic tiles (like the ones on your bathroom walls) and the slightest couple of drips of water create a truly hazardous situation. Is there anything you can buy to make such a floor non-skid without making it look hideous ?: If okorder /... and cut in to appropriate shapes for the kitchen such as pots, pans, rolling pins etc. This would solve the issue and give the kitchen floor a unique look. Hope that helps!

Q: I would appreciate a double check on this problem. I believe I‘ve saved myself a lot of cutting, but I just want to make sure. My shower is 59 inches wide. My tile is 4.25 inches wide and tall. (square)My spacers are .25 inches wide. The middle point of my shower 29.5 inches. If I move my center line to the right or left by 2 and 1/8 inches I should be able to cover the entire width with 13 tile IF I allow for a 1/8th inch addition in each corner. Is this correct?: Ok so ignore your center line it does not matter here your tiles are 4.25, your grout lines are .25 and you are trying to get the tile and grout lines into a space that is 59 so if you take 13 tiles you get 55.25 for those tiles you will have 12 standard .25 grout lines totaling 3 giving you a total of 58.25 now from here what I would do instead of adding grout line and caulking on each end is form an L with the next wall (assuming you have 3 walls to tile to enclose the shower) because a standard wall tile is about .25 thick this would give you an 1/8 bead of caulk in each corner. Make sense?

Q: I am currently removing old cork tiles from the floor of my house. They are stuck down to the cement and as I‘m chiselling them up I‘m being left with a lot of glue residue with fragments of the cork too. Any tips on easy removal of the old tiles, but more importantly removing the glue? We are replacing them with new ceramic floor tiles. I was thinking maybe a heat gun and a scraper to clean it up but Dad has suggested a grinder! Any experiences with fast and easy removal of residue? I‘ve still got a room of cork to remove so if there‘s a better way than hammer and chisel I‘d love to hear about it!: A sharp scraper a lot of hard work, the heat is a good idea as it will soften the glue making it easier to scrape the tiles loose.

Q: hi guys,i had a new shower which was leaking (no waterproofing where it was leaking from..), therefore i have taken off some of the tiles where the water was leaking from and i have waterproofed it with the paste + fibreglass. before i tile, i would like to have a shower to make sure that the water wont leak. am i able to do that? in theory i dont see a problem, but is it ok to get the waterproofing membrane so wet? thanks: getting it wet and/or testing it is fine, don't get any soap or other chemicals on it that may interfere with the bonding of the tiles, you will also need to let it dry sufficiently before tiling

Now there are 3 production lines of energy-saving and environmentally-friendly products, a spray drying tower, tunnel kiln production lines, a spray drying tower, three 800-ton hydraulic machine, three 20-ton ball mills, and seven 8-ton ball mills in our company, and our industrial ceramic production capacity has reached 100,000 tons.We will be the strongest and largest industrial ceramic production base in the country and the scientific research base of industrialization. We will have greater influence on enterprise groups in the same industry.

1. Manufacturer Overview

Location	Jiangxi,China
Year Established	2001
Annual Output Value	US$10 Million - US$50 Million
Main Markets	North America South America Eastern Europe Southeast Asia Africa Oceania Mid East Eastern Asia Western Europe
Company Certifications	ISO 9001:2000;ISO 9001:2008

2. Manufacturer Certificates

a) Certification Name
Range
Reference
Validity Period

3. Manufacturer Capability

a) Trade Capacity
Nearest Port	Shanghai,Shenzhen
Export Percentage	1% - 10%
No.of Employees in Trade Department	6-10 People
Language Spoken:	English, Chinese
b) Factory Information
Factory Size:	3,000-5,000 square meters
No. of Production Lines	5
Contract Manufacturing	OEM Service Offered Design Service Offered Buyer Label Offered
Product Price Range	Low and/or Average