• CU/PVC/SWA/PVC Single core Electric Cable 0.6/1kV System 1
  • CU/PVC/SWA/PVC Single core Electric Cable 0.6/1kV System 2
CU/PVC/SWA/PVC Single core Electric Cable 0.6/1kV

CU/PVC/SWA/PVC Single core Electric Cable 0.6/1kV

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
500 m
Supply Capability:
50000 m/month

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CU/PVC/SWA/PVC Single core Electric Cable 0.6/1kV   

 Rated Voltage 6kV and 30kV power cable (XLPE insulated),6kV-30kV

Cross-sectional area : single core,three-core 25-630mm2

Copper ,aluminum conductor, metal tape armoured,wire armoured.

Rated Voltage 30kV power cable (XLPE insulated), 21/35kV,26/35kV,

Cross-sectional area : single core,three-core 25-630mm2

 

   Power cable Structure

The basic structure of power cables by the core (conductor), an insulating layer, a shielding layer and a protective layer of four parts.

1. The core is conductive part of power cable, which is used to transfer power, is the main part of the power cable.

2. Insulation is the line between the core and the earth and the different phase of wire core in the electrical insulated from each other, is an indispensable part in the structure of power cable.

3. Shield  10KV power cable shielding layer and more generally have a conductor shielding layer and an insulating shielding layer.

4. Protective layer  The role of the protective layer is to protect the power cable from the outside world the invasion of the impurities and moisture, and prevent the external force directly damage the power cable.

 Specifications:

Type

Core

Rated voltage(kV)

Copper

Aluminum

0.6/1

3.6/6

6/6
  6/10

8.7/10
  8.7/15

12/20

18/20
  18/30

21/35

26/35

YJV
  YJY

YJLV
  YJLY

1

1.5~400

25~500

25~500

25~500

35~500

50~500

50~500

50~500

3

1.5~300

25~300

25~300

25~300

35~300

50~300

50~300

50~300

2

1.5~150

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

3+1

4~400

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

3+2,4+1

50~240

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

5

1.5~35

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

YJV22
  YJV23

YJLV22
  YJLV23

1

4~400

25~500

25~500

25~500

35~500

50~500

50~500

50~500

3

2.5~300

25~300

25~300

25~300

35~300

50~300

50~300

50~300

2

4~150

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

3+1

4~300

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

3+2,4+1

50~240

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

5

2.5~35

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

 

Note: We can produce steel-armored wire according to  user needs, such as: YJV32, YJLV32 type; the  flame retardant cable should plus “ZR” in front of the original model when ordering.

Hot spot! Factory High quality Low voltage electric power cable

 

Certificates

CE, RoHS, CCC, KEMA and more others at request

CU/PVC/SWA/PVC Single core Electric Cable 0.6/1kV

Q: I have a wire heating up and wanting to burn that is going to the alternator (stator) . It is a black wire with a diode on it I think. I went to the john deere dealer and they first gave me a stator because they said that might be problem. It wasnt because i put new stator on and still same result. I took stator back.they checked old one and said it was good.rigged up some diode to put on it. I tried that and still wire wanting to burn up. I think maybe they give wrong diode? I have it figured out it can be only 2 things as all other wires have no shorts and this wire running from the stator is black, connects to a 4 prong plastic connector where it changes to red and goes to the solenoid, Is this wire suppose to be a hot wire where it connects to the plastic connector? I have photos of exactly what I am talking about if someone can help me I can send them the photos. It is in great detail taken with digital camera.
The Diode helps present day to pass in one course in simple terms. in the experience that your twine that the diode is connected too is burning up you have a bad diode. there is no longer sufficient present day to truly soften it down via fact the Milli-amps are so contrite that it takes likes 0.2 to furnish a trickle value to the battery. i could use an OHM Metere to examine this out to be greater gentle with your consequences and diagnosis. an on the spot short from the 12v resource could genuinely warmth it up and burn it out. i've got in no way see any twine soften in my history of doing mowers as a effect from a bad diode. there's a risk of a incorrect connection or a bad swap permitting present day to shuttle from one prong and that's uncommon, yet conceivable.
Q: I need help. I am doing this project for school and I need to create an electrical current using copper wire and batteries. How should i connect the copper wires to the AA bateries. I need help. I tried connecting them but the batterie is giving off no heat or anything. The batteries have power in them. They are re-chargeable batteries.
I don't know exactly what you're up to, but as to how to connect the batteriesthe usual way is to get a battery holder (Radio Shack sells them). You'll have to solder the wires to the terminals, of course (if you don't know how to solder, you ought to learn!)
Q: Wire on the 3 +2 with 4 +1 What is the meaning, please speak of the popular point, too professional do not understand.
If it is a cable trench, in general, the mortgage cable is on top, the high voltage cable is underneath
Q: I want to install a new lighting fixture outside. It says that the supply wire must be minimum 75C. I'm thinking it means 75 degrees Celsius/Centigrade. It's an older house (1950s) and I want to know if the wires it currently has are able to withstand the heat it may generate.
75 Degrees Centigrade
Q: Electrical Wiring for solar USB Charger with rechargeable battery?My goal is to have some sort of three way connection that would allow my charger to have the option of having power run from:A) the solar panel to the batteriesB) the solar panel to the USB female connectorC) the batteries to the USB female connectorwith one switch if possible,Currently I have a DPDT center off switch that allows me to control whether power to the USB is coming from the batteries or the solar panel. Is there a 4-position rotary switch that could give me the 3 different on positions and 1 off position? How would I wire this?
You would not lose anything if you permanently wired the solar panel to the USB and simply used your switch introduce or isolate your batteries from the circuit.
Q: I am wiring a new screened-in porch, and i need to run wires to a switch box through conduit. I plan to run conduit from the basement out to the box and then into the ceiling, where i will then change the wire into reqular Romex when it is in the enclosed ceiling. I need to know how many wires will fit in the conduit. I was planning on using 1 inch conduit from and to the switch box. I am using 14-2 wire through a 1 conduit. thanks
wHalf inch conduit is fine. Rather than try bending the conduit, you could run straight to lengths to ells with covers. The wire will push for a considerable distance through straight runs. If a ground connection is available at the point from which you take power, it would be best to run a green ground wire in the conduit, and use Romex with a ground. Also you might consider using number 12 wire all the Way, if you are connecting to a 20 amp breaker or fuse. That way you could put a receptacle out there too.
Q: I have a back patio light that is obsolete now that I added a covered porch. Could I add an electrical box, attach additional wiring, run it through conduit and ultimately attach it to a ceiling fan in the overhead patio area? (from the point from where the wiring attaches to the original light)
Yes it is , but do not hide the box. you must be able to see and open all boxs after the the job is done.
Q: I have two switches (one controls a fan and one controls a light) in a box with only one feed wire. The normal pigtail split is used for the blacks to the switches and the whites to the light and fan, ground to grounds. I have a timer with a black, red, white and ground that I will use to control the fan. Ground goes to ground, red goes to the fan, black gets connected to the existing blacks, for the white I pigtailed two short white wires with the white feed wire and connected one to the light switch white, and the other to the whites for the the fan and timer white (it works). Now the question Could I have connected the timer white with the whites for feed, the light and the fan or would that have caused a problem, (I thought it would so that is why I split the feed white off with the pigtail)
It's only a question of what fits in the wire nut. When you buy wire nuts they come with a list of all of the different combinations of wires that will fit in them. Your way is fine - a bit of extra work is all.
Q: What is the maximum load of 2.5 square millimeters of wire?
Cable bridge between the multi-layer installation control cable between not less than 0.2M, the power cable between not less than 0.3M, weak cable and power cable between not less than 0.5M, if the shield can be reduced to 0.3M, the upper part of the bridge from the roof or other obstacles Not less than 0.3M different voltage for different purposes of the cable should not be laid in the same layer of the bridge if the conditions are limited to laying in the same layer of the bridge, the middle need to add partitions.
Q: I did something very dumb, took a notebook adapter, 19.5 volts 4.62 amps, and atached the two wires to both sides of my head i held it there for sometime and all of a sudden one end got real hot,and I felt the most emotionally depressing , painful feeling in that area. like a frying sensation.I am worried because my head, that exact spot has been hurting on and off for a couple days now, and i have sometime mild pain in and above the eye, which is a symptom of aneurysm.does anyone in here, with knowledge of physics, know what would passing a current like that do to brain tissue?should I be worried, go to ER or just wait a few more days.?
Definitely go to the ER, the worse it can be is a brain aneurysm, the best a mild headache. Get yourself checked out, and I recommend in the future don't be as dumb as this! Yes, see the octoroon, they might scan your head and then if necessary, remove the problem. I am familiar with Physics, but unaware of the current which could affect the brain tissue. Probably do some damage at the least. Better to be safe then sorry, hey? Dr Dan (Also when you said you attached two hot wires to your head, was it by your ears?)

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