• Nickel-chromium Wire with Good Quality and Low Price System 1
  • Nickel-chromium Wire with Good Quality and Low Price System 2
  • Nickel-chromium Wire with Good Quality and Low Price System 3
Nickel-chromium Wire with Good Quality and Low Price

Nickel-chromium Wire with Good Quality and Low Price

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
5 m.t.
Supply Capability:
1000 m.t./month

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1.Detail Description:

Resistance Alloy Wires is used for electrical heating element. Haide produced high-resistance electrothermal alloy products for the high-purity, low impurity resistivity stability, temperature coefficient small, superficial body Sexual good, and the higher intensity and high temperature performance and good processing may welding nature steels varieties specifications complete. Widely used in metallurgy, industrial stoves, household appliances, machinery and electronics manufacturing industries do heat resistance material.

1.FeCrAl Electrictrical Resistance Heating alloys with high electrical resistivity, temperature coefficient of resistance is small, high operating temperature. good corrosion resistance under high temperature, and particularly suitable for use in a gas containing sulfur and sulfides, low price, it is widely used in industrial electric furnace, household appliances, far infrared device ideal heating material. 

2.Nickel chromium alloy with iron resistance electrothermal high resistivity, surface body sexual well. At high temperature and high intensity, and a good performance and processing may welding nature widely used metallurgical, electrical, mechanical components and electrical manufacturing industries for doing heat resistance material..

Product size:

wire dia.0.05—12mm; flat strip thickness 0.03—5mm,flat strip width0.2—500mm.

2.Characteristics & Properties:

1) The highest working temperature up to 1250 degree.

2) Longer working life,and better technical properties

3) Higher surface load.

4) Higher resistivity. 

5) Lower density.

6) Free from oxide debris

3.Suggested Applications:

Material Designation

Service Properties

Applications

Nickel Chrome

Cr20Ni80

Contains long life additions making it eminently suitable for applications subject to frequent switching and wide temperature fluctuations. Can be used at operating temperatures up to 1150 °C.

Control resistors, high temperature furnaces, soldering irons.

Cr15Ni60

A Ni/Cr alloy with balance mainly Iron, with long life additions. It is suitable for use up to 1100 °C, but the higher coefficient of resistance makes it suitable for less exacting applications than 80/20.

Electric heaters, heavy duty resistors, electric furnaces.

Cr20Ni35

Balance mainly Iron. Suitable for continous operation up to 1050°C, in furnaces with atmospheres which may otherwise cause dry corrosion for higher nickel content materials.

Electric heaters, electric furnaces (with atmospheres).

Iron Chrome Aluminum

OCr25Al5

Can be used in operating conditions up to 1350°C, although can become embrittled.

Heating elements of high temperature furnaces and radiant heaters.

OCr20Al5

A ferromagnetic alloy which can be used at temperatures up to 1300°C. Should be operated in dry surroundings to avoid corrosion. Can become embrittled at high temperatures.

Heating elements of high temperature furnaces and radiant heaters.

 4.Products show:

Q:what does a #12 copper wire look like and waht does a #14 wire look like if you got pictures post a link thanks
In recent years, much of the 12 gauge wire is being wrapped in yellow pvc, while the 14 gauge is still being wrapped in white. Side by side it's easier to tell. 12 is thicker and more difficult to work with, bend and such. Also, spools of wire have the gauge and other identifying characteristics laser printed on them at regular intervals.
Q:Whenever I'm making jewelry, I typically wind up using crimp beads (with toggle closures, in most cases). Whenever I cut off the beading wire at the end, after enclosing the crimp bead around it, there's always this itsy bitsy part of the wire that irritates me to no end when I wear the jewelry. It seems that I can only cut the wire so much before I wind up snipping at the crimp bead. How can I remedy the irritation fact of the left-over wire?Maybe put glue on the wire piece and let it dry? Idk. Grr.
Depending on the size of the hole in the beads, I usually run the wire down throw about 2 inches worth of beads; then crimp and clip. This also ensures that if the necklace if caught and pulled you have about 2 inches of slack before you are chasing beads on the floor. If you hole in the beads are small you can do two different things. 1) find a coordinating bead with larger holes that you can end the necklace with on both sides of the catch 2) Be sure your wire is running straight back down the original wire after going through the crimp, then crimp and clip.The end of the wire will be straighter and not tend to go out to the side and punch your neck. And unfortunately there is not a solution every time.
Q:I bought a single pole dimmer switch to install in my dining room and when I took the old switch out nothing looked right. There are two wires which were joined together by another single wire which was attached to the top screw. There was another single wire (I believe the ground wire) attached to the bottom screw. I disconnected the first two wires and attached them separately to the black wires on the dimmer and attached the ground wires together. It didn't work. I've tired several different times with no luck. I put the wires back the way they were and attached them to the old switch and they no longer work ether. Help! How can I fix this problem? The old wires appear to be a very thick copper covered in black plastic and cloth.....
Dimmer Switch Wiring
Q:Ceiling light junction box has 2 wires (black and white on both). One of the two is hot (always juiced). The other of the two travels down the wall to the switch junction box, and this is the only wire in this junction box. When I connect the two blacks and the two whites of the ceiling junction box, the switch wires become juiced. But when I try to hook up a switch to those switch wires, the switch doesn't cut the power to the ceiling junction box when I flip the switch on and off. Why?? -very frustrated.
You wired it wrong. Disconnect all of the wires, take a piece of black tape and put it on the white wire that goes to the switch. Connect the other white wire to white of the fixture. Connect the black from the switch to the fixture, Connect the grounds, then connect the last 2 wires together. Now it should work.
Q:function of a fire-wire for backing up data
a firewire is just a port on your computer, mind you they are currently slightly faster then a usb. But what helps do a backup is the program you have on your computer, not the connection to the computer.
Q:What are some of the basic advantages of twisted pair wiring?
Less interference.
Q:how do i wire a dual 2 ohm sub to an amp at 2 ohm
actually tc your almost right. yes 1 and 4 are the ohm loads of the speaker itself. but if your talking mono thats all you can achieve. on 2 channel amps when you bridge them your talking ohm drop again. so if you have one dvc 2 ohm wired in series and then bridged to the amp your looking at a 2 ohm load
Q:i got this switch with numbers 1 , 2, 3, and 4 on it and 4 wires red, green, and two black. Which wires go to which number?
Well it is defintely a 3 way switch. The fourth (green) wire being the ground. I can't tell you by the numbers, but I can tell you by the screws which wire goes where. If it does not apply to your switch you may need to go get a new one. They are inexpensive. The green, ground wire goes to the screw that is usually attached to the arms ( metal extentions that hold against the sheet rock. Now you need to find the red and black wire that are together. Look inside the box where the wires come in and you should be able to tell if the red and black are in the same sheathing. These are your travelers. The travelers need to go on the two screws that are across from eachother. One goes on the right side and one goes on the left. Does not matter which side. The last black wire, depending on which of the two 3 ways you are at is either your power or your light leg (wire going to your light). This wire goes on the last screw. Hope this was helpful.
Q:Wires in the dash*Radio constant*Radio Switched*Radio illumination**please match these up with the options below**Wires on the stereo itself*Dashboard Light Dimmer Switch*Amplifier Remote or Power Antenna (Positive +)*(fuze) yellow memory (negative -)*(fuze) red 12v (positive +)if someone could please help that would be great-since the wires were replaced i cant go by color
Car radio wire constant to stereo yellow memory. Car radio wire switched to stereo red 12v positive. Car radio wire illumination to stereo Dashboard Light Dimmer Switch. Don't forget to ground the black wire on the unit to the ground wire from the car harness. An extra ground strap to the chassis is a good idea also. If you don't have an amp or a power antenna, cap off the blue Remote/Antenna wire.
Q:I'm cutting 18 gauge wire, so I can run valve wires to the timer in the garage. The plastic casing over the wire is pretty thick, so I had to squeeze hard. I accidentally cut into the color casing of the actual wire inside, so I want to start over. How can I cut this wire away, and start again?
Take a utility knife and cut a 3/4 slot at the end of the cable parallel with the conductors. Use two pliers, one to hold the outer sheath, and one to grip the conductors. Pull them 180 degrees away from each other. When you have the stripped length you want, cut off the outer sheath where the wires are not inside. Any cutting around the circumference of the sheath while the wires are enclosed, will lead to cutting the insulation on the wires. This is why many manufacturers install a nylon zip cord inbetween the wires. You can grab it with one pliers and pull it away from the cable while holding the cable with the other pliers, to cut the outer sheath.

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