• High quality Nylon Jacketed Wire with a good price System 1
  • High quality Nylon Jacketed Wire with a good price System 2
High quality Nylon Jacketed Wire with a good price

High quality Nylon Jacketed Wire with a good price

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Qingdao
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Min Order Qty:
10000 m
Supply Capability:
100000 m/month

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Nylon Jacketed Wire


High quality Nylon Jacketed Wire with a good price


Introduction

PVC insulated nylon sheathed wire mainly applied to rated voltage of 450/750V.
 
Application

Under the condition of flame-retardant or non-flame-retardant, the wire shall be used in buildings, computerized devices and household appliances.
 
Features

In the premise of meeting the requirements of electric insulating performance, in order to possess several advantages, such as high mechanical strength, excellent lubricant and oil-proof properties, long service span, the products already have been minimized the size of shape, lightened weight. The service span is three times of common cloth wire.


Introduction of our company


Our company  is a professional China Wire and Cable Manufacturers, mainly supply Aerial bundled cable,House Electric Wire, Insulated Overhead Cable,Aluminium Conductor Steel Reinforced, PVC Control Cables,XLPE Power Cables,BV Electric Wires,Nylon Sheathed Cable,Buried Cable,High Voltage Cable,House Electric Wire,Single Core Flexible Copper Cable,Civil Wire And Cable etc. series of wire and cable products, sincerely welcome everyone to visit.



Q: What is the color of the three-phase electric line?
The depth of the pole for the high 1/. see how high their own bar
Q: i need to know tonight for homework!!!!!!
copper is the preferred wire to use in electrical wiring. the other option is aluminum but aluminum expands and contracts too much and causes connections to loosen up.
Q: I have an old craftsman Powr Panl (yes spelled that way) and it has an extension cord on it that has 10 individual wires on the inside. There are 5 dull white ones, and then five that are: bright white, red, black, green, and brown. Any ideas? This is the original cord, and was hooked up in 1950 at one point. Any ideas?
Standard colors for power cords these days are white (for neutral/return), black (for 'hot' - think bad guys in black hats, it's the wire that will zap you if holding onto the kitchen faucet when live and you touch it), and green (for ground). Note that the white wire is the return path that carries current while the green is usually connected to the case or chassis and should trip the circuit breaker if it begins to carry current. A guess? The name Powr Panl suggests that this is a power distribution panel with multiple outlets. It's possible the color coding was used to help track connections to ganged panels. Just a guess though. With perhaps more detail, a better informed guess could be made. What does the panel look like? How large are the wires? To what do they connect? Feel free to email for follow-up.
Q: i have a 1981 honda express (nc50)and i'm trying to read the wiring diagram
That is, as it is labeled in the diagram, a Silicon Controlled Rectifier (SCR) a solid state device with three leads, it is probably mounted on a printed circuit board (and the circuit board might be encapsulated in a plastic block where you can't see it), but if it were connected to wires, each wire would go to a seperate terminal on the device. the Blue/Yellow on the diagram probably refers to a blue wire with a yellow stripe, or possibly, either blue OR yellow, depending on some variable, supplier or model or something like that, but not two different wires in the same vehicle.
Q: Can anyone help me out! Does it have any ruled for electrical wiring? i know like the Neutral Wirer always goes to the light. The Live wirer should go to a switch. Does it have any more tips for me?
Precisely what do you need to know? Is it a three way switch? A single pole switch? At home or at work? Different methods can be used in commercial buildings than residential work.
Q: I have a 12V electrical device connected with a positive and negative (ground) wire. It is not live. Let's say I connect a second positive cable to the first one. When I turn on the power on the first positive cablee, the device runs fine. What happens if I then also turn on power on the second positive cable? Thanks.
Thanks for answering my question, busterwasmycat. Yes, the power source is the same for both wires so I guess nothing happens when they're both on. Let me fill you in on my idea to see if you want offer any additional advice. I currently have a dash cam hardwired so that it only turns on with the car. This is fine for most cases, but there are times when I'd like to turn it on discretely after I've parked it. So I'm thinking of hooking it up with a second wire connected to a remote controlled relay that's always live. My concern was, what would happen if I forget to turn off the relay and then turn on the car? Lucky for me, nothing. Thanks!
Q: Can electrical wire from a 50 ft drop cord be used to re-wire the lights on a old car with a 12 volt system ?
yea, you can use an extension cord, i did it before. after all its 110 and your car is only 12 volts.
Q: I tried to replace an old outlet with a new one today and I accidently put the white wire into the slot for the black wire and vice versa. I used one of those quickwire outlets. When I turned the power back on, smoke started coming out of the outlet and now all the outlets in my room and in the nest room don't work. What exactly happened and what do I do now?
You swapped the hot neutral wires coming from your circuit breaker to the outlet you worked on, and other outlets in your room. Not to worry too much - it's repairable. 1. make sure the circuit breaker popped open (or the fuse blew open.) leave alone until step 9. 2. use a voltmeter at your outlet and make sure there is no power carried to the outlet. You should set the meter to AC (alternating currrent) and in the US, the scale you select should be greater than 220 Volts (less than 220 V could fry the meter.) If you have an auto-ranging DVM (digital voltmeter) it will set itself. Plug the black wire into Ground and Red wire into VAC on the meter. To measure the voltage, plug the black wire into one of the wide slots and the red wire into the other wide slot -- you should not measure any voltage. 3. pull out the outlet from the wall and remove all 3 wires, including the ground. I would throw away the outlet and get a new one. 4. check the wires and cut-off any burned insulation, and strip insulation off about 3/8 of an inch. Form each wire into a small question mark shape - a clockwise-facing open loop. 5. attach the bare copper wire (ground) to the green grounding screw, located at the bottom by itself. 6. attach the white wire to the silver screw 7. attach the black wire to the brass screw 8. Reinstall the outlet into the box and coverplate. 9. Reset the circuit breaker (or replace the burned fuse with exact same value.) 10. Use your voltmeter to check power at the outlet. You should measure 110 V across the two blade openings in the outlet. You are good to go.
Q: I am also concerned that the electrical wires have been stapled down with metal staples, can the heat burn through the wire insulation and short out the wires? Last year I was in the attic on a hot day and the wires were almost too hot to touch. I've installed ventilation this year and I want to find a target temp, it's common for the temperature outside to be in the 90s where I live.
The lowest temperature that can due damage is 350 degrees with foam insulation. You have to go up to 400 to take out the wires. At those temperatures, the house is on fire.
Q: I heard someone at an energy conference refer to a study that showed that going to a one size thicker wire in a home -- I am assuming on the American wire gauge, AWG, system -- will lead to a significant drop in home electrical energy usage. I write significant because the percentage was so big I can't remember it exactly.
Theoretically yes by increasing the wire gauge there will be lower I?r losses (Watts) as the resistance r is lower in wire of greater diameter. HOWEVER, the resistance value of copper wires of just a couple of gauges difference is so small as to not contribute to any difference in the meter reading/monthly bill. Considering that an 8 gauge wire has a resistance of 8 ohms per mile and a 12 gauge wire's resistance is 3 ohms per mile, the difference being 5 ohms per mile. Say you had 1 mile of wire in your house (which is impossible) with 10A running constantly. The wire heating loss would be 10? x 5 500W or 0.5kW. To have this for 1 hour would consume 0.5kWhrs, at say 10 cents/h 5 cents. Now, there would be not more than 100 feet loop length on a branch circuit so the cost would be 100/5280 x 5cents 0.01cts/h. Conclusion: Your energy conference leader is talking RUBBISH.

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